Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => Classified / Wanted to Buy => Topic started by: wpstarling on September 29, 2018, 10:53:24 AM
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Was looking for my dad's 73 CV16 but I'm running out of luck finding it so I'm seeing if there's any for sale that I could pick up, fix if necessary, and enjoy.
Haven't found a whole lot online near florida panhandle.
I don't mind a slight project or no motor.
Thanks, Bill
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Welcome to the forum Bill !
Saw your request on FB .. Or maybe it was CL ... for your Dad's boat, haven't seen one like that, but CV16's are pretty command and you shouldn't have trouble finding one, but might take some time to find the right one.
I use "Searchtempest" to do daily searches for G/C's and post them here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=1077.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=1077.0)
How far would you be willing to travel for one ?
Would it have to be early 1971 to 1973 model ?
Or any year ?
CV16 history here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0)
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Looking for my Dad's old boat - 1973 Glastron - Need HELP! - $1 (Lake Placid)
https://cfl.craigslist.org/boa/d/looking-for-my-dads-old-boat/6701785865.html
I'm looking for my Dad's boat that he sold in early 2000's (circa 2002-3) in Lake Placid, FL. It was a 1973 Glastron boat (V-162 model I believe). Registration Numbers are FL2931BF and it was blue when he sold it with a white Johnson 140 2 stroke outboard on it.
My dad passed away a few years ago and we had to sell most of his stuff for financial reasons and I am now in a position that I can possibly get this boat back and I'm trying to find it. DMV won't give me the current owner's info obviously so I'm seeing if Craigslist can help me track it down.
If you know this boat or can help email me or call/text me.
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That's my posting :D I actually found the guys address who is the last registered owner in florida but he hasn't responded so that makes me assume he either doesn't want to part with it or doesn't have it.
I prefer the 71-73 since my dad's was a 73 but the changes for the 74-76 model don't seem drastic and it still looks good, just looks more like a gt150 to me.
As far as driving I'd like to keep it to a day drive one way if possible but I do have a friend whose willing to road trip with me it just will be hard to get off work for more than a day right now.
I've been looking at your posting to see and I've actually emailed some people from those postings. Not in a rush so I know I'll find something, just want it out there that I'm looking.
Thanks
Bill
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There was one for sale near you but was sold a week ago.
Something will show up ..
Good thing your willing to do a project, because most will be !
There is a guy that will transport for you but will add to purchase price.
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How much is it to transport? There's one in AZ for $250 but that's 2100 miles one way from me. That's like $1050 in diesel for me
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4 mpg, sounds like far more truck than required. Maybe combine a freight run. Other possible options, fly in and rent a truck one way? Contract hire someone to bring it. Maybe seller would transport for a fee. Just remember, low cost or free boats can be some of the most expensive to make right.
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Boat Transportation
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7200.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7200.0)
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This would be a 1972 or 1973 CV16 with Blue and white.
$1000 isn't to bad with motor and nice trailer.
antique ski boat - $1000
https://gainesville.craigslist.org/boa/d/antique-ski-boat/6711345059.html
antique ski boat with a 120 Johnson vro motor
motor runs good but needs a water pump. $1,000
solid hull ask for Charlie phone call only, I only have an
old flip top phone and it dosn't except text or e-mail
thanks
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Ask him for serial number on plate circled in picture for exact year.
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It's a 73. Hasn't been ran in 1-1.5 years. He's not sure what year the Outboard is and I'm not too hip on engines but I have heard the VRO's are pretty good, just use a lot of gas.
Is there anything to look for if/when I go look at this? It looks like it's actually in really good condition and just has peeling paint and it's dirty.
Bill
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Not a big deal .. but is the year he gave you off a title or off the serial / cap. plate in red circle ?
Titles can be wrong.
You could get $1000 back parting out that motor .. if you wanted to ..
Hard to tell how bad flake is under red paint, look on deck to see how bad blue is under red.
Flake .. if in pretty good shape can be wet sanded / compounded / buffed out to like new, or near new with a little work.
If it's very ruff and you can see / feel the flakes, it might be to far gone. if just dull and cloudy, might be able to save it.
Check under splash well for soft floor, it was a poor design for hull drainage, drain holes were two inches off bottom of floor.
Also any holes in transom were places for water to get in, sealant is old and the motor didn't come with boat when new so holes might not have been sealed right.
Poke around with sharp object, around any through holes and behind speedo tube mounts.
Feel around side foam floatation boxes on sides of stern for rotted wood on transom and wet foam.
With trailer attached to car/truck, stand on motor (be careful) and try to rip it off transom, noting movement of fiberglass / trim pieces / wood, might see a very little movement but not much.
Really can't tell how bad it is until you start ripping everything apart, but with warm humid Florida weather, would bet it has some rot, unless already repaired.
Picture is my bilge drain bowl, hole was drilled for hull drainage but not sealed and rotted, bottom of floor was sealed with resin, but water couldn't completely drain so splashed around and rotted.
Speedo pilot tube mount holes were not sealed and water got in and wood rotted.
Almost any CV will need transom / floor repaired. There 40 plus years old and had drainage problems.
I can link you to my transom / floor repair thread if you'd like to see what your getting into .. LOL
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yea i love looking at projects and seeing how far i'm getting into it lol. I'm going to take a friend of mine who is into classic boats (and classic VW's) so i'll have an extra set of eyes. I did notice in one of the picture it looks like the skeg is broke, I didn't notice that when I talked to the guy so I'll have to ask him about it if I go look at it.
Thanks,
Bill
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Welcome!
I give you credit for trying to find your old boat. I'm not sure how you found out the last owner but that is impossible in Minnesota. The DMV and DNR guard that information with intensity here. But, you have it; I'd pay the last known owners a visit. It sounds like your ok with a project, so expect that on your old boat and bring cash.
I'm sure the market for boat sales is different in Florida but up north there are a limited number of boats for sale with winter approaching. Most wanting to sell will wait till early spring to even list the boat for sale. Although serious deals on boats this time of year are possible. Florida will undoubtedly follow a similar path but to a much lesser degree. What I'm saying is "Be Patient". Wait for the best boat to come along that you like (condition, color, engine type and Horsepower)
Here is the link to my floor rebuild for your thoughts:
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.msg71670#msg71670 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.msg71670#msg71670)
Best of luck.
David
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Just wondering how far you plan on going for restore ?
Money no object full restore back to original or make it safe and solid ?
Can you do rotted wood removal / grinding old glass / replace wood and fiberglass ?
Or would you have someone or shop do it, or some of it ?
Would it be OK if flake shined but had some chips, cracks, gouges, fade ?
Can you work on motor ?
Like replace impeller / etc. ?
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well, if the transom is shot and won't safely hold a motor then I'll go farther than if it's fine and I need to replace a section of floor board. Prefer safe, solid, and useful, not a trailer queen for sure.
I can do the rot removal and re-fiberglass. My proline had a Seadrive that I had to remove and patch holes in the transom (1 ~5.5 inch hole and 1 6x5 inch hole) then install bracket and outboard so I've got experience with it, although I'd love to have $$ to pay someone :)
as long as the boat doesn't leak then I can deal with a chip/gouge here and there.
I can do motor work but I'm not very good with diagnostics so unless it's a common/obvious problem I usually end up taking it to mechanic or bringing my father-in-law over. I can do the impeller/water pump. But if the boat needs a good bit of repair to be usable I'll probably part out the motor to pay for repairs and save for a new outboard while i fix it since I've got another boat to use in the meantime (in FL I can use the boat for most months).
Bill
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Finding a CV with original transom / floor / stringer in good shape would be very hard, if not near impossible ..
Unless already repaired, I would just plan on redoing wood on any CV.
Even one that's been repaired could be do poorly or with wrong materials ..
If floor seems solid, check under carpet for new wood on top of old rotted floor.
Some stringers are wrapped / covered with fiberglass better then others, seem like how well just depends on the day or guys that did the work.
If there's a metal / aluminum plate on stern, that could be a sign of bad transom with a quick repair, kind of a band ad.
CV's are pretty easy to repair compared to other G/C models.
Floor / stringer could be replaced with out removing deck, but transom would need deck removed to be done right.
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I have hundreds .. if not thousands .. of every model of CV pictures, so if ya need to see anything .. I got it .. LOL
CV16 history
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0)
Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2666.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2666.0)
The NIGHTMARE begins ....
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3611.msg42708#msg42708 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3611.msg42708#msg42708)
CV glassin & grindin' ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=4062.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=4062.0)
CV16 leaker ..
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7823.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7823.0)
Below are pictures of a 1973 CV16 in perfect original shape ..
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More ...
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As an update, I actually spoke to the last registered FL owner for my dad's boat and he did indeed sell it back in 2009 but he doesn't remember the guy's name or where he lived so it's definitely a dead end. He did tell me though that the boat had no more seats or floor and was in really rough shape when he bought it and when he sold it, it was because the engine seized up. So I'll be looking at the one you linked Gregg sometime this week.
I had some questions that I thought of, is there a reason that so many people move to stern mounted gas tanks from the bow mounted ones? I figure for skiing and pulling tubes, etc the bow mounted one would be better. Also, where would I find the original blue paint?
Bill
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The 1974 CV had some changes from 1973 and earlier models.
No bow mounted fuel tanks until 1974 model.
This thread covers year to year changes ..
CV16 history ..
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0)
The blue color is gel coat, not paint.
You can Google "How boats are made" to get a better explanation and exact details of process.
Quick answer .. They lay down a thick layier of clear gel, or many layers of clear, then a layer of the sparkly flake, then start adding fiberglass. So what your seeing is the faded and chacky layer of clear gel. You can clean off paint on deck, which would be the area with most fade / dull gel, and wet sand with courser to finer grit, then buff with compound / 3M finesse it 2 / wax and see how it looks. Just do a small area and see results. If it's to far gone the clear gel will be gone and you'll feel the silver flakes that make it sparkly.
Worth giving it a shot as painting is going to be a lot of work and very expensive.
I did mine (wet sand / compound / FI2 / wax ) and came out pretty good, still has crack, scratchs & gouges but shines like new ...
Flake suppliers ..
http://www.minicraft.com/ (http://www.minicraft.com/)
https://rothmetalflake.com/collections/metal-flake (https://rothmetalflake.com/collections/metal-flake)
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Hello, I may have just what your looking for! A 1978 Glastron Carlson CVX16 with Johnson 90 HP
Its fully Original on a Roadrunner trailer. I just got it for a Display boat for a Detail company but its seems its to special to do that to a rare boat. Its from South West Arizona and seems very solid overall. Has all original gages, controls and badging. Has the wild Sparkle finish over a cream base. Windscreen is there but has a crack.
Motor is also complete 90 HP two stroke Johnson VRO injected. Havent started it but hand turns.
Trailer is a Roadrunner heavy duty single axle with winch. Very good condition. Tires Id change for a long haul.
This IS a project boat but not a basket case. Has no Carpet or seats. Motor is not rigged.
Title is clear and Hull ID # GCV08868M78A has been verified as Original 1978 Glastron Carlson CVX16
I can assist delivery and or get tires for you.
Thank You, Hope its what your looking for.
Ron
Lake Havasu, Az
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Welcome to the forum Rcon !
Is your CVX16 on Craigslist ?
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Hey Gregg, I got the code off of the dash, but it's faded and I'm not sure what the series of numbers mean. I didn't see a post about breaking it down. Did I miss something, or maybe I'm missing it?
Bill
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If you don't mind .. you can post here and I'll tell ya .. then add to our G/C data.
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Current owner says title actually says it's a 72 and the number from the dash is 1493208
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I think 1973 … Is that the whole number he gave you .. Is there a "CGV 000" in front of it ?
From CGOA …
"Boats that were manufactured from 1970 - 1973 carried a seven digit number. The fourth
number from left indicates the year of manufacture. "
In 1973, Glastron starting using letters (GLA...) in the Hull Numbers.
Prior to that, the early 70's were just seven numbers, with the fourth number from the left being the year
(4322414 would be 1972). Starting in 1973 we were required to use prefixes.
Using the prefix you can determine the location the boat was built. Then
the seven digit id number will follow. A single letter and 2 or 3 more numbers which will tell
you the year of manufacture. These procedures are in accordance with coast guard federal
regulations"
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Some of the numbers I have from 1972 & 1973 ..
A = Apricot
GR = Green
BL = Blue
GCV000621172 1972 CV16. A
GCV1292519 1972 CV19. GR
GCV1193059 1973 CV16. A
GCV1193295 1973 CV16. A
GCV00145M73E 1973 CV16. BL
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That's the whole number
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OK … Thank you ..
Late 1973 serial number, done in early 1972 style / format.
Wonder if it has a number on the stern ?
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I'll find out Friday when I look at it. Hoping the motor at least cranks over and has good compression cause the boat looks in ok condition.
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This one might be worth $4000.
RARE 1974 GLASTRON [CARLSON] 16' SPEED BOAT WITH DILLY TRAILER 150 HP MOTOR
Daytona Beach, Florida. / Starting bid: US $4,000 / Buy It Now : $7,500
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153206286715 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/153206286715)
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Gregg,
Ended up getting that "72" that was near me. It's in good condition, the motor starts up but has trouble idling so I need to clean the carbs and replace the plugs. It looks to me like the transom has been replaced or at least had a lot of work done to it and there was no rot in the back. The floor is cracked but it's not wet/rotten, it looks more like someone too heavy broke the floor but I need to remove carpet to be sure (and to fix it).
All in all if I can get the engine to idle then it's sea worthy, just needs some TLC to be in better shape. I'm thinking of selling the motor and using the funds to do a semi-restore on it. Fix the gel coat/paint, the floor/carpet and make sure that the transom was done correctly, haven't had any time to look real deep, just brought the boat home and stuck it in the carport and then tried starting it. Would like to have it not looking like a half peeled orange before using it.
I do have one question for you, the windshield is definitely not factory, but it is in need of replacing, where would I find a replacement for it?
Bill
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Good score !
Bet the cracked floor has rot under.
Glastron/Carlson windshields ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0)
Most have used ..
Upd Plastics
https://www.updplastics.com/glastron-boat-windshields/ (https://www.updplastics.com/glastron-boat-windshields/)
But have said took long time to receive WS.
Might have been not in stock, and had to wait until a batch were made.