Author Topic: My "72" CV16 Restoration  (Read 16299 times)

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Offline wpstarling

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My "72" CV16 Restoration
« on: October 18, 2018, 06:23:46 AM »
Since I'm going to try and document my restoration of the "72" CV16 I bought I figured it would be better to start a thread here rather than use my Intro or Wanted threads.  Recently bought this 1972 Glastron Carlson CV-16, it's titled in FL as a 1972 but looking at the ID number it seems to be a 1973 model.  It's got a 1988 Johnson 120 VRO on the back and looks like it's had some work done previously but was then neglected a bit.  I plan to replace the floor and either sand/buff the gel coat or sand/re-paint the boat.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 06:27:27 AM by wpstarling »
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2018, 06:26:34 AM »
More Pictures where I started ripping out the floor where it was soft.  Turns out it was rotted.  The top of the floor looked great but once I ripped off that top piece of fiberglass the wood was soft and wet.  Also looks like the transom has been replaced before.  Looks like an OK job, I need to beef up the corners as I can see light come through the fiberglass from it being rather thin.

I do have a question though, in the 2nd picture what do I do with those areas where the white arrows are pointing?  Do i just rip out the wood and foam and leave it or do I need to get some other type of foam, or do I just leave the foam and replace the wood?
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2018, 07:50:57 AM »
Those are the flotation boxes, their required use is long been debated.  Some keep them, some folks remove them.  The decision is yours.  I would check them by using a long 3/8" drill bit.  Drill into the foam at the bottom of the space, parrallel to the hull bottom.  If the foam is wet, tear out the boxes.   The old foam, once saturated, will both be heavy and unable to provide critical flotation.   If you opt to replace them, the correct 2lb foam is fairly easy to work.  Some have used the dense construction foam sheets with good results.  I prefer the pour foam because it fills all the voids, deadens sound, and really sticks to stuff well.  You can also make the boxes from fiberglass panels as well if you like, then you have no more wood rot anxiety.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2018, 07:59:40 AM »
Those are the flotation boxes, their required use is long been debated.  Some keep them, some folks remove them.  The decision is yours.  I would check them by using a long 3/8" drill bit.  Drill into the foam at the bottom of the space, parrallel to the hull bottom.  If the foam is wet, tear out the boxes.   The old foam, once saturated, will both be heavy and unable to provide critical flotation.   If you opt to replace them, the correct 2lb foam is fairly easy to work.  Some have used the dense construction foam sheets with good results.  I prefer the pour foam because it fills all the voids, deadens sound, and really sticks to stuff well.  You can also make the boxes from fiberglass panels as well if you like, then you have no more wood rot anxiety.

Ah, alright.  I'll have to do some research on it.  I've seen it being removed from some of the floor replacement posts on here but wasn't sure if it was the same thing or not. 

a few more questions I thought of:
1- What wood/composite does everyone recommend? I've seen marine grade wood, composite from Express composites and then just regular treated plywood used so is it just price and peace of mind that makes the difference?
2- What fibergalss/resin should I use and where is the best place to buy it?  I do have a West Marine relatively close to me but if I can find something online cheaper then I'd rather do that.
3- Should I paint/coat the transom/bilge area with anything?  Right now it just looks like bare fiberglass and I didn't know if it was beneficial to paint or coat with something.

Thanks guys!

Bill
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2018, 10:08:54 AM »
Glastron added the large foam boxes in the rear for level floatation.

I didn't replace mind for a few reasons, wanted more room for storage, I always boat with other people so some one would be close by to help and I do 99% of my boating on rivers, where shore is close by.
Plus .. My boat is insured for more then it's worth … LOL
 If I were to do most of my boating on large lakes by myself I would have added the extra foam. I don't think with my 18 gal. fuel tank in the bow and the other foam in my boat that it would sink, but would sit nose up with motor under water.

The foam in my boxes was dry but transom wood on left side behind box (picture tr1) was so rotted I could remove it with my fingers.
Your bilge bowl is square so they changed the design of stringers in that area. Should look like (picture tr2).


Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2018, 10:24:18 AM »
yes they did re-design it and honestly from feeling around in it there is no hole/access port for water under the floor to come out, it's completely closed in which I found odd.  I still have to remove the floor back there but i'm thinking I'll have to re-design it again. 

So there's not any huge lakes near me so I doubt I'll be on anything large, and I don't think i'll be taking this on the Gulf so I don't know if I really need the foam then.  Gregg, what's yours look like now in the back if you don't have the boxes?

What about the foam under the floor, is that necessary or no?
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2018, 10:32:54 AM »
Having transom replaced is good and bad …
Good because it's done … Bad because you don't know how well it was done.

The deck had to be removed in order to do it, and on older models deck was riveted on, so it wasn't an easy job.
Was told that early versions didn't have the wood strip running around edge of hull, mine has a wood strip and is screwed together (picture ff10 red arrow).
Do you plan on removing deck ? 

I did make a box on right side by battery to hide/store cables and wires, but panel is screwed on so I can remove it.
I haven't painted stern yet but will some day with gel coat ..

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2018, 10:41:35 AM »
From what I can see right now I don't think i need to remove the deck BUT I haven't ripped out enough to be 100% on that.  I hope I don't need to remove it.  I know that the rear rub rail is riveted on but they look new so I assume that the deck was removed.  I think I might just do a box like you did next to the battery.

Is Gel coat the best option for the stern/transom area?

I need to finish ripping out the floor and other rotted stuff before I figure out if I'll need to split the boat or not.  I'm hoping that I just need to replace the floor/stringers and then the floor running across the back of the dash.

O and my boat does NOT have wood running the length of the hull.  It actually looks fiberglassed together to me when I look but it was hot, dark, and I was itchy when I looked so i didn't take a good look.
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2018, 10:48:58 AM »
I didn't replace foam logs in my floor, but made small notches in stringers to drain water from hull.
Notches are much smaller then the ones in picture. It's just to show you what was done.

With almost everything on your boat .. There is no (within reason) right or wrong with how and why you do stuff.
What works for me might not for you.
Do some reading and post your thoughts, some one could respond with ideas that enforce or shot your idea down.
Like it or not .. You are now a marine designer … LOL

I did crack my hull .. You might want to add some fiberglass to hull or do some extra stringers.
CV leaker …
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7823.0
« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 11:41:39 AM by Hyperacme »

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2018, 11:04:11 AM »
" It actually looks fiberglassed together to me when I look but it was hot, dark, and I was itchy when I looked so i didn't take a good look."

Yep .. riveted on outside and glassed on inside.
If transom is OK, no need to remove deck.

My under splash well / transom was painted when new, gel would seal better then paint.
Or just leave it bare. Water never sits in my boat long enough to absorb into glass.

The side boards that are forward facing are tabbed to bottom/hull and up the side a little, they are up off floor a little to allow carpet to tuck under them for a clean look. They are not attached to deck on top. I screwed mine to deck while I tabbed them to hull and forgot to remove screws from top of board / deck. Got back after first time out and screws had snapped off .. Think deck moves around some. 

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2018, 11:38:57 AM »
AAAHHH … The wood / resin question … LOL

Shawn posted this for me … VERY GOOD READ !

Here is a good article on fiberglass and repairs.
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/fiberglass-repair-composite-repair/Learning_Center
Here is a link to a lot of fiberglass information. Even info on using metal flake.
https://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center

If done right, even exterior ply, poly resin (from a fiberglass supply company and mixed to proper ratios) will last 30 to 40 years.
Fixing some of the design flaws will help (hull drainage) sealing all wood (if used) mixing resin to proper ratios (measuring cups and syringes) and good glass will out last you.
Your motor is within ratings for the hull, so you shouldn't need any major design upgrades.

Doug's buddy's built some crazy cool boats, but there mounting 150 to 200 HP motors on the stern.
 C500 Spy Pics …
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7551.0

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2018, 01:02:50 PM »
Yea my boat(s) won't sit in water more than the few hours I'm in the water.  Even if I did live on the water I'd have them on a lift. 

I'll take a look at those links, I've seen posts about all the different options but have read so much i'm now confused lol.  As I stated in my other thread, I don't necessarily need a boat that looks brand new but I want it done right so that I don't have to do it again for a long while, hopefully it'll last until my kids are my age and they can do it haha.

I was going to sell the motor but the more I think about it I think I'll stick with it, it just needs a cleaning and some TLC with some hoses and such.  I'm going to try and finish getting the floor up this weekend but we'll see how that goes, I'm still helping people clean up from the hurricane (we didn't get hit as bad as Panama City but not everyone can cut up trees and move the stuff that did fall in their yards.

Thanks again for the links and help Gregg.  i wish I lived closer to y'all to be able to attend the meets and get help from fellow G/C owners.  Doesn't seem to be a big following for classic boats anywhere near me.
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2018, 03:00:45 PM »
Ya .. I would keep that motor !
Price of the package brought the value of the motor down ! 
Is compression OK ?  Gear case (shifts gears) OK ?  Did it run ?
Set up right .. You'll have a 55 MPH/GPS boat with that motor !

After cracking my hull, my floor is also removed. My stringer is wrapped well, without any rot, so no need to replace.
Not sure how or why my hull cracked, but Ed had his hull done with braces (not sure of exact term, picture 05).
Ray is going with a core, which is strong and light, but a lot of work.
I'm not sure yet if I'll just lay some 1808 glass down or lay glass and some sort of short stringers (running same as stringer) on ether side to support hull in that area ..

After reading about composite flooring, and that you would have to glass both sides, plus would have to put supports under seat base's I think I'm going with ply, maybe marine if I think far enough ahead to order it from home supply store .. LOL
I'll be useing vinylester resin, because it a little more price wise then polyester, but is a newer stronger version of poly. Maybe ...

I'm not adding foam under floor, mostly because of product added price, and less because of it's down sides ..
Maybe if I had added foam to my hull it wouldn't have cracked ?

BUT .. Don't get your resin from home supply store .. Get it from a fiberglass supply company. Mix to there exact ratio ! Get measuring cups and syringes to get it right !  If you don't get it right it will kick to soon and heat up, or it might never cure ..  Picture "Hotbatch" is some Bondo brand resin thinned down that got a little hot !
Plan a head before you start glassing. Cut and fit all fiberglass before mixing. Get lot of rubber gloves, cheap paint brushes and small rollers. Have someone mixing resin while you lay it out.

Thay slapped your boat together as fast as possable from the factory .. Your going to do a much better build then they did ..

« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 03:04:45 PM by Hyperacme »

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2018, 08:15:30 PM »
Doug can't be too far away from you, and Florida has a lot of marine stores and supplies. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2018, 08:29:58 PM »
Doug would also be your guy for J/E info …
What year is your Johnson ?

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2018, 08:37:30 PM »
It's a 1988 according to the model number. I've got a west marine near me but I don't know how their products are.
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2018, 09:21:25 PM »
I sent you a PM.
Some marine mech. on the forum and other members have had bad luck with Sierra aftermarket parts.
Would be best to go with OMC / BRP parts.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 09:24:27 PM by Hyperacme »

Offline wpstarling

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #17 on: October 22, 2018, 07:50:54 AM »
So i got some more work done.  Removed the gauges and wiring and de-rigged the engine so I can remove it.  Also ripped out a good bit of the floor to assess damage and although the floor didn't feel soft except in that one spot the entire thing was wet, and it's because the bottom of the wood that was used was not glassed in so it was just bare wood.

Also when removing the gauges I removed the plate that has the serial number on it and it seems odd.  As you can see the piece with the serial number on it looks like it was cut from another piece of plate.  Looks suspicious, is this how Glastron did it or did someone make this?  Is there anywhere else on the boat that the serial number could be checked?
1972 Glastron-Carlson CV16

Offline Oldfishguy

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #18 on: October 22, 2018, 08:44:30 AM »
Go to the back of the boat and the serial number will be stamped into the hull; the last two digits should give you the year the hull was made. What does it say?

My 1972 hull and 1973 interior and gel color.  I suspect a left over hull made in 1972 that made it to the 1973 production line somehow.  I'm sure they didn't want to waste a hull.

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.0
« Last Edit: October 22, 2018, 08:49:14 AM by Oldfishguy »
1972 1/2 Glastron CV 16
1973 Chrysler 120

Offline 75starflight

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Re: My "72" CV16 Restoration
« Reply #19 on: October 22, 2018, 08:57:32 AM »
I have seen this before. the 1973 V179 I stripped down had the same thing for a serial number on the instrument panel.
1975 v-179 starflite