Hi Doran, I know how ya feel seeing the motor in that baby ... Something to concider .. be sure to check out the condition of the Gimbal Bearing before you think about installing the drive, you can do that by simply sticking a couple fingers into the bearing, rotating it, feeling it's resistance, smooth or rough, and sometimes you can't spin it at all, thats when it needs replaced for sure, but this is the time to check it out. The gimbal bearing will rotate "pivot" with-in it's own assy, thats how you can move it right or left, up or down to acheive proper alignment, the alignment tool may not even go into the coupler if the bearing it-self is not directed properly, but it's easy to change it's direction just by tapping the end of the alignment tool right or left, or up and down.
You may have noticed, on my boat, the motor is sitting very low in front, thats because I changed the rake of the transon 3 degrees out at the bottom. I done that, lowering the front of the motor, so when I'm running at speed trimmed up, the cv-Joint assy is running strait through with no angle, reducing wear on the U-Joints, and not robbing any hp from the motor. I also raised the drive almost 3 inches, bringing up the back of the motor, thats why my boat throws a rooster tail at speed, the prop shaft runs strait about 4 inches below the bottom of the hull, but trimmed up, the end of the prop shaft is about the same depth of the bottom of the hull. All that to say this, depending on the angle of the transom in your boat, probably 10 degrees, the motor mounts should be adjusted so the drive shaft slides strait into the coupler with the prop shaft parallel with the bottom of the hull, makes it easier to slide in that way. Just a little more info ... if you will notice, with the drive installed, the drive shaft comes through the transom assy at a 10 degree down angle, that allows the prop shaft to run parallel to the hull with the u-joints strait.
