Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: keso151 on July 20, 2021, 12:26:20 AM
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Hello, Just aquired a 1987 Conroy 17’ with a 1987 Johnson 140… I have had a few boats and am getting familiar with this one. A few of the electric switches do not operate the lights.. rear pump.. etc. But when I apply 12 volts they all work… is there no fuse/ junction box in this open bow boat??
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The only unfused connections in most boats/car is in the starter circuit due to the current involved. Old fuse blocks in boats get corroded, switches as well. Electrical demons in old boats can be a real pita. Start with a good schematic of you craft, a decent meter, and go through each system. Some time spent here now will insure better outings on the water.
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I think during them years they had a fuse block where the main power bus connects behind the instruments using glass automotive fuses.
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Welcome to the forum keso151 !
Try removing and cleaning blade connectors from back of switch.
I had a horn switch that just needed corrosion cleaned from connectors.
Glastron owners manual with wiring diagrams ..
1985 Glastron I/O
https://www.glastron.com/uploads/2017/3/80-IO-GL-MANUAL.pdf
1986 Glastron outboard
https://www.glastron.com/uploads/2017/3/80-OB-GL-MANUAL.pdf
1976 Glastron outboard
https://www.glastron.com/uploads/2017/3/Glastron-Manual-70s-OB.pdf
2003 Glastron
https://www.glastron.com/uploads/2017/3/Glastron-Owners-Manual.pdf
1987 Glastron saleman hand book
https://www.glastron.com/uploads/2017/3/1987-Glastron-PIG1.pdf
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My 1985 CVX has the fuse mounted through the splashwell. I've had a couple of instances where the blade connector under the splashwell has come loose and I lost my horn, fuel gage and lights. Probably knocked loose while removing the battery for winter storage. I could simply reconnect the loose wire and everything was fine.
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Thanks for the reply so you are referring to back behind the battery seems like a mess of wires back there nothing has been added but I will look back there ….we are at the lake now with the boat for the first time seems to lug an cut out when cold but once that clears it’s fine so I’m thinking some type of a fuel issue maybe filter anyone have that exact issue?… Love the boat as a 140 on the 17 foot is a nice combination….
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My splashwell mounted accessory fuse is just behind the rear seat and above the battery. The wiring connections are under the splashwell but the fuse can be changed from the top side. Mine looks like this.
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Standard AGC panel mount fuse holder. Should work, but they aren't sealed very well and tend to corrode in damp environments. A little bit of silicone once installed on the body would help keep the moisture out
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Thanks for the wiring issues...I will get to those but first have to troubleshoot the stalling out issue. Previous owners had the same issue...on a slow start...(or is just puttering for awhile) the boat will bog/stall if you try and accelerate to quickly....if you slowly bring it up 200 rpm at a time it comes out of it. It will do this once and when warm its fine..seems to have a rather slow idle at start up....any starting points?
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Several things can do this, most commonly is the accelerator pump on the carb. Pull the air cleaner/spark arrestor and while looking down the carb throat, have someone operate the throttle. This can be accomplished running or not. You should see a strong stream of fuel squirted into the engine. The second item would be to check the timing to see if it's set correctly, and if it advances correctly. Sometimes the centrifugal advance mechanism can get stuck. Low idle speed can also be a consequence of retarded timing as well. There are other items that will give you the off idle bog, but these two are a good starting point. Let us know what ya find. Good luck.
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I was thinking you had an IO like my Conroy 17, but looked at the start of the thread and noticed you have an outboard. My rude 115 had this issue and found the reeds cracked, also rebuilt the carbs.