Floor Question

[WetRaider]

OK ... I'm ready to lift out old stringers and cut new ones.  More fiberglass is on the way, delivery expected tomorrow.

First picture, from the rear, I've placed in what I assume to be the correct position of structure & floor ... following factory stringer placement, the center stringer aligned with keel, sister stringers aligned with the first step.  No problems or questions here.

Also, from the rear, the floor appears to sit at the second step, flush against the hull ... I could make a chopped mat bed and have it glassed in from underneath at the perimeter & tabbed from above.  No problems or questions here ....

Until, I get about to where the seats will mount.  It appears the factory floor begins to pull away from that second step and begin the taper early.
Second picture shows, from above, where the factory floor was (the dark blue) and where the floor would have been had it followed the step (light blue).  I assume it pulls away early so that it when the floor is level to the ground, the bow has a slight rise.  Certainly the factory knew what they were doing ... I'm just wondering how much trimming I should continue to do before I move on.  The glass at the bulkhead where my feet would sit is a full 7/8" - 1" thick.  I'm not sure I'd be comfortable thinning that down just to push the floor out wider at the helm.  I don't need the width, I'm just thinking in terms of lateral structure, having the floor tight to that second step as far forward would be ideal.

Somebody tell me I'm just dumb so I can move on ... lots of work to do before June.


OK ... I'm ready to lift out old stringers and cut new ones.  More fiberglass is on the way, delivery expected tomorrow.

First picture, from the rear, I've placed in what I assume to be the correct position of structure & floor ... following factory stringer placement, the center stringer aligned with keel, sister stringers aligned with the first step.  No problems or questions here.

Also, from the rear, the floor appears to sit at the second step, flush against the hull ... I could make a chopped mat bed and have it glassed in from underneath at the perimeter & tabbed from above.  No problems or questions here ....

Until, I get about to where the seats will mount.  It appears the factory floor begins to pull away from that second step and begin the taper early.
Second picture shows, from above, where the factory floor was (the dark blue) and where the floor would have been had it followed the step (light blue).  I assume it pulls away early so that it when the floor is level to the ground, the bow has a slight rise.  Certainly the factory knew what they were doing ... I'm just wondering how much trimming I should continue to do before I move on.  The glass at the bulkhead where my feet would sit is a full 7/8" - 1" thick.  I'm not sure I'd be comfortable thinning that down just to push the floor out wider at the helm.  I don't need the width, I'm just thinking in terms of lateral structure, having the floor tight to that second step as far forward would be ideal.

Somebody tell me I'm just dumb so I can move on ... lots of work to do before June.

[MarkS]

I asked basically the same question (on the nat. forum) when doing my floor Dan, was advised it's best to keep it as it was made originally.  Changing it would also create new issues when re-constructing the ski locker, btw.  Here's some pics of how mine turned out in my original project thread here;
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2368.15
Looks like you have the worst of it (cutting and grinding) behind you now, go buddy go!   

[WetRaider]

Hot Damn ... A break in the shade figured it out ...
I pulled out and sat down in the shade to cool off, looking at the boat with my butt on the ground .... If this boat were to sit on it's keel (which is about how it is on the trailer), the taper in the floor starts where the "steps" begin to widen out for the "deeper" V at the front of the hull.

Sticking with factory floor.  Not quite sure I'll get stringers in tomorrow, but I will be cut and dry-fit.



oh, and Mark, after reading through your topic to the very end, there was discussion on placement of the bilge drain.  Personally, I believe the offset is a convenience if you consider the outboard will be in place and you need to set the plug on the ramp before you launch ... it's only a couple inches, so the convenience added is minimal, but that's my thought.

[WetRaider]

Putting a dent in things.  Lots of templates, lots of cutting.  Wanted to glass in stringers yesterday, but had more trimming to do in the hull.  She looks real good now, sanded & ground down; long, straight, flat ledges for the stringers to sit in.  B'lieve I'l be laying down a bed of chopped mat with resin for the stringers to sit on.

The Spee-Dee delivery guy and I are on a first name basis now ... I've ordered a lot more than planned when I started this thing - was suppose to be re-enforcing a new transom and glassing the underside of the splash well.

But speaking of a dent ... apparently I had a rock fly up and push a dent the size of my thumbprint in my volvo's a/c condenser.  Complete with puncture, too.  Won't hold any freon.  Was planning on a tire purchase come July, but it looks like I'm going to fix the air conditioner now instead ... tires will have to go another month or so.  

[WetRaider]

Some progress today ... recipient of the same winds you guys in MN were having ...
Here's a handful of pictures.  Not enough battery in the phone to keep taking more as the day went on.  
I'll get more tomorrow.

Had a real nice piece of 3/4 oak plywood - with an 11-ply core ... was suppose to be part of the new coffee table top.  Accidentally cut it the wrong direction, so I thought I'd use it in the transom sandwiched between 1/2" oak w/ 3-ply core

[75starflight]

Looks like you are coming along quite well Dan.