Author Topic: Steering bracket (Read 1640 times)

Rosscoe · « **Reply #20 on:** January 05, 2024, 07:23:09 PM »

It?s actually made for a dual outboard installation. I said screw it and cleaned out the holes with a tap, bought new bolts and used loctite on them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #21 on:** January 05, 2024, 07:25:11 PM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on January 05, 2024, 07:23:09 PM

It?s actually made for a dual outboard installation. I said screw it and cleaned out the holes with a tap, bought new bolts and used loctite on them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #22 on:** January 05, 2024, 07:26:16 PM »

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hyperacme · « **Reply #23 on:** January 05, 2024, 08:14:46 PM »

Just keep it under 75 MPH / GPS and ya should be fine ..
Looks pretty thin at mounting point ..

aquamaniac · « **Reply #24 on:** January 05, 2024, 08:52:52 PM »

Hi Ross,

The bracket that you bought is for the tie rod for a twin engine set up. I don't know is there is a strength issue but I suspect it is strong enough. Since it extends the length of the steering arm it will reduce how far the steering system turns the motor which isn't a factor for the tie rod between twin engines.

I notice that in your last photo that you are not using a clevis clamp on the end of your steering cable output ram. Since the height will not be a perfect match to the splashwell mount you might get some binding there and accelerate wear to the steering system or the bolt hole you're using to attach to the engine. Your old engine connection shows a clevis was used, and Gregg's photos show various clevis set ups or the quick disconnect ball mount.

The factory original splashwell mount Teleflex rack steering did not last long in my 1985 CVX-17. I had severe torque steer at high speed and high trim. I adjusted the torque tab for a happy medium at low trim and slalom skiing speeds. It still pulls one way trimmed all the way down and the other way when aired out. I replaced the original steering just after a few years with a Teleflex no feedback system. The gears on the rack were badly worn and the cable was pretty shot. No Feedback steering was fairly new technology then and only offered in a rotary helm and not for rack steering. I went for a full upgrade and ditched the splashwell mount and ran the cable through the tilt tube on the Merc V6 135. That didn't solve all of the problems but made it safer to let others drive my boat. Installing the conventional steering set up was a bit of a hassle. Since the splashwell is narrow on the CVX-17 we had to remove the engine to feed the cable through and also cut a hole in the port side of the splashwell for the steering output ram to get full steering travel. Attached is a clevis kit from Hannay's catalog that could go on the end of your steering cable and also a photo of the steering set up on my CVX-17.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #25 on:** January 05, 2024, 09:05:47 PM »

Yeah I?d much rather have a tilt tube setup. As to the thickness, it?s the same as what was on my I6. Not that this means it?s the safest setup. As far as the Clevis goes, it?s odd that it?s there but was not used? I?m sure this was the original engine to this boat. Why is it there? I unbolted the steering arm right from the steering arm on the old motor. If I can use that in some way to eliminate any potential bindings problems, I?d like to do that. I?m just not sure how I would utilize it in a beneficial way. Where would it go exactly? I anticipate torque steering and added a trim tab, which wasn?t there. I am totally open to suggestions and greatly appreciate your feedback. I think this is my only splashwell steering set up on any of my boats.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #26 on:** January 05, 2024, 09:07:46 PM »

How does it perform with the 135? I?m a bit disappointed to say the least, that the seller of this engine advertised it as a 150. I discovered it was a 135 after the fact. We worked it out and he gave me some money back, but it?s still not a 150. Oh well. At least I?m legal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #27 on:** January 05, 2024, 09:14:07 PM »

You must of had to make a new hole starboard to get the cable further back for the tilt tube setup?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aquamaniac · « **Reply #28 on:** January 05, 2024, 09:47:08 PM »

I am very pleased with the performance of the 135 Merc. My boat was a 1985 holdover and sold new in 1986 with the V6 Merc. I bought it with one season of use on it in 1988. The original owner traded it for a new Mastercraft ski boat.

Two of my neighbors followed suit and bought CVX-17s. A 1985 with 140 Johnson and a 1986 with 140 Evinrude. The Merc out runs both of them. I got about 10 years of heavy use out of that Merc before it puked. It ate a rod bearing and also spun the top main crankshaft bearing destroying the block along with the crankshaft. With 23" pitch props it over revs a few hundred rpm. I replaced the original motor with a new 135 Merc in 1998 and it performs nearly the same but is easier starting and seems to have a better hole shot. My neighbor that had the Johnson 140 replaced his motor with a 150hp 60 degree Johnson but the Merc is still faster.

I preemptively replaced the steering cable with the new motor in 1998 to tighten up the steering. I considered hydraulic but was warned about loss of "feel" and didn't.

The clevis clamp open end bolts to the steering cable and the bolt for the connection to the steering arm runs through the closed end. The idea of the clevis is to allow for the change in angle from the cable to the steering arm. That angle will vary quite a bit through trim and tilt especially with the extension on your motor.

aquamaniac · « **Reply #29 on:** January 05, 2024, 09:55:35 PM »

I'm stealing use of Gregg's photo to show how the clevis attaches. You can see that the output ram of the steering cable is at an angle but the clevis allows for the mounting point to be square to the steering arm bracket. The angle doesn't look severe in this photo but it changes as the motor tilts.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #30 on:** January 06, 2024, 11:27:14 AM »

The clevis also mounts in a double shear capacity which is far stronger connection point. Probably be awhile before you get to test, 90+ days possibly before soft water.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #31 on:** January 06, 2024, 04:32:31 PM »

Ok this is better, huh? Besides being loose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #32 on:** January 06, 2024, 04:33:35 PM »

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #33 on:** January 06, 2024, 04:34:20 PM »

Not as ridged

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #34 on:** January 06, 2024, 06:11:05 PM »

I had to tap or clean out the steering extention bracket because OF COURSE, the clevis bolt wouldn?t just screw in. Go figure.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rosscoe · « **Reply #35 on:** January 06, 2024, 06:18:46 PM »

I?m a bit surprised that you were over revving with a 23? This came with a 19 on it. I plan on trying a 21

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hyperacme · « **Reply #36 on:** January 07, 2024, 10:35:47 AM »

That looks about right ..
Is it a NFB (no feed back) steering system ?

Rosscoe · « **Reply #37 on:** January 07, 2024, 10:42:33 AM »

How is that identified? Rack at the helm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hyperacme · « **Reply #38 on:** January 07, 2024, 03:00:26 PM »

Is it original system ?
Beleive they have like a "Clutch" that locks and unlocks .. Just guessing .. never really looked into them ..
Maybe part number ?

Rosscoe · « **Reply #39 on:** January 07, 2024, 03:09:25 PM »

It?s original

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk