CVX 16 gets a new floor

[Diamond Chad]

The CVX 16 we bought this spring had a few soft spots on the floor and so the project begins.  What could possibly go wrong?
 

Thanks to all of your great posts on similar projects I have learned what to expect and the confidence to dig into this project.   So far there are no surprises and everything looks good.

The oscillating cutting tool and the knot wire wheel both suggested on this forum have both been life savers.  They save literally dozens of hours.
 

[Diamond Chad]

The carpet is out, and the old floor cut out.   The center beam is solid and well sealed in resin/cloth Im just going to put a coat of penatrating epoxy across the top where I pulled the staples from the old floor.   Then we will cut a piece of 1/2' honeycomb composite board to fit back where the old floor was.



It tapers slightly from 32 1/2" in the rear down to about 30 1/2" near the front, then tapers quickly from 30 " to 16" in the last 16 inches going into the bow.   Total length if your not doing the splash well floor is 82" so fits in a single 4 x 8 sheet.

[Diamond Chad]

I saw a lot of you recommending 3M 5200.  If I use a thick bead of that on the edges and center beam, and then glass the edges all around, do you think I will need to use hardware fasteners down the center beam, like screws?   The old floor was stapled with 1" staples.

[dorelse]

I wouldn't think so...but I'm anal, so I'd probably use couple then seal them up when you do the floor with fiberglass & resin.

[Oldfishguy]

Hey, that looks familiar!

I used resin on my floor boards all the way around.  I used resin on the bottom first and laid the pre cut plywood in, then used stainless screws and weight to the top for a tight fit.  The resin sets pretty quick so you can keep moving.  I see the piece back by the transom is still in, must be a solid (good wood) piece I assume.

Are you thinking of using foam or the old styrofoam logs, if at all ? 

You are correct on the tools, worth there weight in gold.

 Looks like the hard part is done. 

[Diamond Chad]

The section under the splash well is solid.  Im stripping it, soaking it with penetrating epoxy, and bilge paint.

Having some Weights ready for the install is good advise.   I am using this Honeycomb composite board from Express Composites.


The stuff is fairly flexible and easy to cut until you glass it on both sides.  Then its tough as nails.   and the whole sheet weighs maybe 2 pounds.  Tomas at Express set me up with this and the 1.5 OZ glass mat / resin to blanket it once its cut to size.

I saw a thread where someone used those polypropylene foam swim noddles.  Since their pre formed with a hole down the center the drainage is built in.  I'm pretty sure I'm just going to stuff the space where the foam logs were, with noodles.

Oh Yea, and its almost 1/4 moon and I will consider doing it between 2:30 am and 6:oo am so it does not sink.

[dorelse]

I'm not a fan of the pool noodles...put one in water and take it out...see how much water clings to it...plus there's the potential, given the right size hole...for them to float out of the boat.

[fireman24mn]

Oh Yea, and its almost 1/4 moon and I will consider doing it between 2:30 am and 6:oo am so it does not sink.

And I thought no one read my posts!! I am glad you heeded my warning, you will be safe.

ROTFLMAO

[fireman24mn]

Also how much is a sheet of that stuff? maybe I should do the floor of the 23 with it.

[Diamond Chad]

Also how much is a sheet of that stuff? maybe I should do the floor of the 23 with it.

Just about $60 a sheet.  But Tomas promises that it will be life changing so I figured what a bargain for life changing technology.

[Hyperacme]

" Just about $60 a sheet."

Seems reasonable ...
Could you also use it for transom's ?

[Diamond Chad]

I don't think so.  He showed me that if stacked several sheets together it is compressible.  Its strong enough for a floor but not as crush proof and strong as dense plywood.  He has some samples made up at the store so you can see how the finished product sets up.

[Hyperacme]

" Its strong enough for a floor but not as crush proof and strong as dense plywood "

OK ... They must make some that is solid for transom's.
Wish I had known about this when I did my CV ...
 

[Diamond Chad]

I'm not a fan of the pool noodles...put one in water and take it out...see how much water clings to it...plus there's the potential, given the right size hole...for them to float out of the boat.

Good point about them as separate noodles,  How about if I banded them all together with tie wraps?  That still does not solve the water cling matter.  What is the best stuff to use?  I already threw away the old foam logs.  I'm looking for another life changing technology that floats.

[Hyperacme]

Floor questions ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3748.msg44531#msg44531

[thedeuceman]

i did not use pour in foam when i did my GT150, but after reading and seeing i will on the next project.
i demoed the floor in the 92 1900 i have, i assume that foam is similar to what is used now, it did not hold water like the old stuff from the 70's

[Jerry]

I'm still not sure what you gain. The weight can't be more than a couple pounds. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Diamond Chad]

It s the weight and the danger.  What if doesn't work?  What if it does!  Either way we will all find out together. 

[dorelse]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Pretty sure that the entire reason for Chad's thread is because it is in fact, broke, and it does indeed need fixing.

For $20 more a sheet, I sure as heck would be putting that in my floor too.

[Jerry]

You need a math lesson. By broke I mean the way it came from the factory, Yes the floor needs replacement, but if you have to buy 4 $60 sheets instead of 2 $20 sheets, that's $200 for what?