Author Topic: engine break in procedure  (Read 6545 times)

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Offline 75starflight

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engine break in procedure
« on: April 14, 2014, 01:03:01 PM »
I am getting ready to do the initial 20 minute came break in at 2000 rpm on the 140. Is there anything I will need to do for a break in period after this? I have found several things online that states I need to do an additional 20 hour break in procedure on top of this, is this true?

Thanks for any help.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline kert0307

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2014, 10:57:31 AM »
I followed most of Red's advise for my break in. I used straight 30 weight oil and the Lucas break in additive.

Cam break-in is important to me, and I'm all about the Zink, Rotella 15/40, and I use it in everything I run, has more zink than most oils, and I'll add a bottle of the Lucas break-in oil, it comes in a 16 oz bottle, cost about $12, run the motor 2000 rpm + for the first 20 minutes, and I'll time that, rip it up a few times, not just to hear it roar, but it's good for the cam, the cam lobes are actually oiled from splashed oil on them.

Offline Jerry

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2014, 01:41:20 PM »
I was a Journeyman Mechanic for 50 years. I rebuilt engines from cars to over-the-road trucks, and have NEVER broke anything in. If you put it together right it will last. There was a time when people used cast rings that you needed to "seat" the rings. Those days were over 40 years ago with chrome-molly rings. Put it in and run it like ya stole it.
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline dorelse

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2014, 02:55:57 PM »
Put it in and run it like ya stole it.

That's what my machine shop told me as well...told me to change the oil out after the first time out, but that it was ready to go, no restrictions.
1990 Sierra 1700

Offline kert0307

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2014, 03:28:29 PM »
I think for flat tappet stuff brake in is still important....roller cams are a different story.

Offline dorelse

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2014, 03:29:44 PM »
Kip!  What's the book say!???
1990 Sierra 1700

Offline Jerry

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2014, 03:51:03 PM »
I think for flat tappet stuff brake in is still important....roller cams are a different story.

Do you think a "soft cam" will get hard if you run it slow for 20 hours?
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline 75starflight

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2014, 04:27:55 PM »
Well I guess everyone has their own way to break in an engine. Maybe I should call my machine shop and see what he recommends.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline CVX Fever

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2014, 05:35:10 PM »
Dennis recommends doing the steady state 2K RPM break-in. Isn't it the zinc that has been removed from most modern day oils that provided a lot of critical lubrication for the cam lobes and lifters? I think so, but could be wrong. Anyways that's the reason for breaking in the cam. Dennis will tell you the weak link in a SBC V8 is the small cam lobes. Not sure about the cam lobes in the 3.0  I4. Anyways that insures there is plenty of oil lubricating the cam lobe and lifter surfaces when they are wearing into one another. Like Jerry said, it doesn't harden the lobes, but I have to think there is more stress on those parts intially when a new motor is run.

I think it is a good idea to do it as extra insurance. I'm sure you could get by without doing it,  but  makers of aftermarket cams say to do it.

Still callling  the builder and seeing what they say is a good idea. That's whose advice I'd be
most comfortable with.
1979 CVX18 "Back in Black"....someday!
1985 CVX18 " Only thing better than 2 CVX18's is 2 girlfriends!

Offline Jerry

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #9 on: April 17, 2014, 06:06:51 PM »
GM makes a supplement (EOS) that they recommend as an assembly lube. I have always used STP and 10w 30 oil. 
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline OleRed

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2014, 09:35:25 PM »
back in Jerry's days, most all the oils contained a lot of zink, you could most likely get away with-out a customary break-in back then, ya fired em up, broke em in between turn 2 and turn 3, drive it like ya stole it, take it to the strip, been there done that, that Was true, but the Worst thing you can do to a new cam these days is to run it at idle rpm's, low speed, for any length of time, especially when you run the spring pressure I do, and like Jerry did back then, on most oils available today, they have removed the zink, thats why every new cam comes with a cam lube, and the assembly lube the same.  One time, only, I thought I'd be smart and used strait stp to lube the bearings, rings, cam, and guess what ?  the starter would not turn the motor over, had to pull the car to start it, knocked a couple lobes off the cam in 20 minutes, never done that again, 1/2 stp / half oil ain't a bad idea, it works, but you still need some "slick-um" on the cam lobes to start a lifter/roller patern on the cam lobes for our boats, there is a Lot if idle zones.  I run all my motors 1/2 hour on the stand before installing them in the boats, 2000 + rom, and goose it a few times in the break-in just for good measure, I want to know the cam and lifters are going to get along.  It's nothing about making the cam harder, it's about getting a comfortable path for the lifters run on the cam lobes, slicker is better.
Thats why I tore down the stroker before I put it back in the gold boat, I wanted to see how it was doing, because when I was at lake of the ozarks I had to idle a mile up and after the run a mile back, even tho it's a roller cam, it bothered me to idle that long with a lot of spring pressure, I wanted to see it, there was evidence of spring pressure on the front side of the cam lobes, 125lbs seat pressure @ 320lbs on top of the lobe, but the patern was minor. I took the cam to the cam shop, he said the patern was normal, so I put it back in the motor.
Late model motors run about 85lbs seat pressure, thin low tension rings, and low compression, and they last a long time, but when you run a high compression ratio, 10 to 1 or 11 to 1, you got to have adequate ring tention, spring pressure, and, for our boats, a lobe center line  that will not suck water into the exhaust chamber, quite different than a dragster with hot exhaust, that can run 13 to 1 or 14 to 1 compression ratio and a cam with a short lobe seperation, that can idle, radically, and because of the valve over-lap, don't starting to build horse power till it's turning more rpm than we can run with the drives in our boats.
1980 23ft Scimitar

Offline Jason

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2014, 09:48:56 PM »
"Back in Jerry days" LOL.
Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline OleRed

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2014, 09:53:26 PM »
"Back in Jerry days" LOL.

I couldn't help it :)
he's a 4 years older than Me :)
1980 23ft Scimitar

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2014, 11:44:08 PM »
" he's 4 years older than Me "

That would make Jerry 106 years old !

« Last Edit: April 18, 2014, 09:35:04 AM by Hyperacme »

Offline Jerry

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2014, 11:13:15 AM »
I'm happy to be older and wiser. I know if the cam manufacturer sends some lube with the cam, they want you to use it, but I think oil has gotten better, not worse over the years, and I only use Rotella in Diesels. Maybe that's Old School, but I think the oil companies pay those chemists the big money to figure all that out so I don't have to. I also believe a "Break in" won't change what happens to a cam (which seems to be the only thing getting broken in) one way or the other. Now a true story. I had a friend that had a new SBC back in the late 70's. It was about a year old, but was running like crap. It was still under warranty so I told her to take it back to the dealer. I went along to give her a ride home. The mechanic at the Chevrolet dealer ran it in his stall and just listened to it, then turned to my friend and said "I bet you use Mobil 1" Yes she said, how did you know. he said This is the third flat cam I have had this week and they all used Mobil 1. I don't have answers, only questions. I also got the oil changed in the Aspen and used 5w-20, although that just seems so wrong.

Bottom line, whatever makes you feel good, that's what you should do.
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline Eric_Michael

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Re: engine break in procedure
« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2014, 11:44:06 PM »
GM makes a supplement (EOS) that they recommend as an assembly lube.

+1

I have always have kept EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) in the old vehicles with the vintage motors.  It is like $20-something for 16oz.  I figure it is cheap insurance on the old, original motors.  If I had a 4-cycle boat motor I would keep it in there as well, given the infrequent operation most boats get in the off-season.

I put a new 383 in my truck in November.  I ran EOS for the break-in oil change (~75 miles) and the first regular oil change (~1500 miles).  Then went to 10w30.

Re: Red's long idle time.  Gotcha!  If I am sitting at a long stoplight, I will drop it in to neutral and rev it up to ~2k RPMs or so for a few moments.  Bring some oil back to the top of the engine.  Couldn't you do that on the water too? 

-Eric