Author Topic: 1980 CVX-16 Restoration Thread (Read 33439 times)

fireman24mn · « **Reply #80 on:** March 30, 2017, 11:58:52 AM »

If I remember I think it was around $2200. I made all the seats and side panels.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #81 on:** March 30, 2017, 07:45:12 PM »

With my CVX16 the bucket seats were $350 each and the rear was $750. That's using the same frames and foam. With the side panels the whole job came to around $1800 with me doing the install as the boat never saw the shop.

I was never happy with how the color matched the rest of the boat. My advice is to get multiple samples of vinyl and lay it up against the boat to see how it looks. I compared my samples to a picture I had which was a bad idea.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #82 on:** March 31, 2017, 09:15:52 AM »

After looking at many samples online, I sent a request for samples.
The colors that looked good online were "Way Off" ... and the one that didn't look close was ... very close to original ...

Hey Kip ... did I ever tell ya ... I should have grab your CVX ... LOL

CVX Fever · « **Reply #83 on:** March 31, 2017, 08:03:47 PM »

Gregg you've mentioned that once or twice

..............LOL

You did your vinyl selection the correct way which is why your interior on your CV16 turned out better than new! I like the newer style steering wheel you put in it a 100X better than what was there when you got it. Sharp!

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #84 on:** March 31, 2017, 09:43:42 PM »

I labored for hours trying to get the white shade in the upholstery to match the kinda flesh color white in the V-153. Must have gone through about 5 sample books from the upholsterer. Thought I had it, but I didn't. When selecting, I needed to take my sunglasses off, and also match the colors in the shade, not outside in the sun.

17ireid · « **Reply #85 on:** April 01, 2017, 05:08:17 PM »

Thanks for the info and quotes, I wasn't sure what I'd be looking at, seems doable. Fortunately prices around these parts are on the lower side, (I think) and I have a pretty simple plan so that'll help more. Until then lots of work to do, just that upholstery question was scaring me. Anyway, change in plan with the Glastron, going to be taking the cap off, flipping the hull onto the floor and sanding off all that nasty bottom paint off and then fixing the many damages on the bottom. Should be fun, thought it might be better to do that before making it heavy with new wood and glass. Updates and photos on how this goes should be coming soon. In the meantime I've ground out some snap holes for filling, a huge spider crack from some sort of sharp impact, and fixed a big split in the tail end. Feels good to be finally putting things back together rather than tearing it apart.

17ireid · « **Reply #86 on:** April 04, 2017, 06:35:55 PM »

Flipped the boat today! 8 guys made quick work of it. First time I've had it off the trailer, and it looks so much smaller on the ground, scary thinking I'll be going 60mph one day in this thing (if it's ever done). Here are pictures before I began sanding off the bottom paint and inspecting the damage. Any quick and cheap ways of removing the bottom paint, I've heard Easy-Off oven cleaner works (Sodium Hydroxide?), any experience with this? I don't really want to order that expensive fancy purpose made stuff and wait a week before I can start working again.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #87 on:** April 04, 2017, 10:30:36 PM »

I'm not a fan of chemical strippers. Secondly, there's not much reason to completely strip the bottom either. Under what appears to be an ablative coating, there should be some type of gel coat. Maybe rough off areas with a 60-80 grit, then determine what other repairs are required. Smooth, straight, and solid is your goal, but it doesn't have to be perfect, and do your best not to break through to glass unless absolutely necessary. Lots of choices, but given its history, I wouldn't spend the time to make perfect. I doubt you'd notice the performance difference between a blueprinted hull, and a decent smooth strong hull.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #88 on:** April 05, 2017, 09:43:44 AM »

From early pictures you posted, I though damaged area was more to the side of hull, second or third stake.
Should be pretty thick (Fiberglass) area on the pad.

Mr. Brown stated ... Blue printing CVX hull was a waste of time.
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6006.0

fireman24mn · « **Reply #89 on:** April 05, 2017, 10:45:34 AM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on April 04, 2017, 10:30:36 PM

I'm not a fan of chemical strippers. Secondly, there's not much reason to completely strip the bottom either. Under what appears to be an ablative coating, there should be some type of gel coat. Maybe rough off areas with a 60-80 grit, then determine what other repairs are required. Smooth, straight, and solid is your goal, but it doesn't have to be perfect, and do your best not to break through to glass unless absolutely necessary. Lots of choices, but given its history, I wouldn't spend the time to make perfect. I doubt you'd notice the performance difference between a blueprinted hull, and a decent smooth strong hull.

Blueprinting a hull is just smoothing and straightening the hull. If you want your can sharpen the strakes and back edge. Do CVX 16 have a hook in them?

I would remove all the ablative paint or gel/paint will not get good adhesion to the ablative. That stuff is made to wear off/ away.

17ireid · « **Reply #90 on:** April 05, 2017, 06:20:50 PM »

I was planning on removing just the ablative, and there is quite a few damages on the underside to address, just didn't know if there was an easier way to remove the ablative besides a ton of sanding. I believe there is a hook in the hull if I have my terminology right, is that the kinda short lifting curve on the outside of the ends of the hull. I'd be interested in learning how to improve hull performance if anyone can chime in on some options

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #91 on:** April 05, 2017, 09:29:23 PM »

The outside stakes have a hook to help the boat get on plane. These stakes are above the water when the boat is planning. The pad and the inner part of the hull should be straight.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #92 on:** April 05, 2017, 09:35:50 PM »

White Bear Boat Works (Mike) repaired my hull back in 2012 and did a fantastic job. Scotty's boat is along side of mine.

Retro Performance · « **Reply #93 on:** April 06, 2017, 06:44:47 PM »

Strakes should be sharp and straight .....I think.....The running surface on my Challenger project was in black gel @ 600 grit....idea was to reduce friction/adhesion to the water. Also added aft "lift pads" to help free it up.

17ireid · « **Reply #94 on:** April 15, 2017, 03:46:43 PM »

Sanding bottom paint is about 1/3 done, it's some slow going. I took the boat home for Spring vacation, hoping to get some friends to help with the dirty work and finish it up. Because Im tired of working by myself. Anyway until the "sanding party" I'm marking all the cracks damages with sharpie and digging them out for future fixing. Here it is in the driveway in all it's unrestored glory.

17ireid · « **Reply #95 on:** April 17, 2017, 06:19:24 AM »

Spent a good part of the day grinding out all 1 million cracks and screw holes. So much dust. Also, not sure if I regret this but I removed the handrail. I didn't really feel like masking it when its time to paint, and there was some minor cracking around it. I tried removing it in one piece but the hull would've taken some damage. So I cut it with a hacksaw. It looks nice without it, but its kinda nice having a shelf and place to hold on there. Not sure how I'd be able to install a new one. For some reason I feel like I've marred the boat by doing that.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #96 on:** April 17, 2017, 02:03:30 PM »

I believe you did the right thing removing the grab bar. Make the glass and structure solid, then fashion a new bar, or find a replacement. Could even make the replacement better than original. Much like vehicles, passengers need their "Jesus bar"

GCarlover · « **Reply #97 on:** April 17, 2017, 02:42:29 PM »

I thought I read somewhere that Tom Brown extended the lower strakes. I'm sure I would do it in your position now. You can match them with composition board at Menard's. I epoxied them on my fishing boat. Rip on a table saw. It could affect turning at high speed but you normally don't do that. Might help prevent chine walking. Don't think it says it here: http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6006.0

pyro225 · « **Reply #98 on:** August 09, 2017, 11:16:44 AM »

Hi sorry for breaking the golden old post rule - but currently doing elements on this but I couldn't see if you replaced the foam after reassembling - did you? or do people generally rip it out? it seems like there are two blocks either side of the stern?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #99 on:** August 09, 2017, 11:46:17 AM »

Drill a hole near bottom and see if shaving of foam come out wet, or water runs out ...
I didn't replace mine but I do all my boating on rivers, so I'm close to shore if something happens.
If you plan to use it out on large lake would be good idea to replace if wet.