Author Topic: New guy Glastron V-166  (Read 3426 times)

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Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #20 on: April 08, 2017, 08:48:04 PM »
Ok guys, I added those pics that didn't make it, so you can see them, but today was such nice weather and the wife left at 2:30 for a bachelorette party so I had a good amount of time to get some serious cutting & grinding done, in the next couple pics you can see that I was able to remove the transom board, thankfully in one piece, but very rotten, so at least I'll be able to use it for a template again, and also there were 2 triangular pieces of wood glasses in at either end of the transom, also very rotten, but again at least I was able to dig them out in pretty much one piece, they are all laid out to dry for now, after I extracted all of that rotten wood, I got to work on cutting glass tabs and grinding downexcess resin, there is a LOT of it! The good news is that I THINK that once I have my hull ground and prepped I think that setting in new stringers and transom will actually be fairly straightforward, it's a pretty simple design, I'm considering adding an additional bulkhead in the center of the hull to add additional strength. Anyway, here's today's progress!

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #21 on: April 08, 2017, 08:54:07 PM »
Pics from today

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #22 on: April 10, 2017, 06:04:11 PM »
More, also, in the second photo, you can see that apparently a corrugated cardboard liner was used under some of the fiberglass? Have any of you gents ever seen that? I have finally come to the realization that these boats as mentioned by dorelse seem to have questionable construction methods. The nice thing I keep telling myself though is I now have the authority to build it as I see fit!

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #23 on: June 27, 2018, 04:55:11 PM »
Ok all, I know it has been a long time, but I finally did get back to doing the work on my t166. After I got it torn completely down over the last two years ( Iíve been busy going to school and studying for the most) I am finally nearly done with it, I have taken plenty of pictures along the way to show pretty good progression so I hope that this can also serve as a ď semi tutorial ď or a go-by for someone too. In any case the last I posted I had gotten the floor up as well as started cutting and grinding! I am glad to say that I am done grinding, cutting, and glassing! Not sorry as some of you know, pretty tired of having all those little shards stuck in the arms and legs! With all of that said, here are more pictures! I will also continue to comment on the photos as I post them, Iím sure most of you guys will have a good idea about what your looking at anyhow.

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2018, 11:15:47 PM »
Ok attached here you can see after removing the stringers and all the wood at the back

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2018, 11:23:08 PM »
Laying out and test fitting/cutting the new stringers, I went ahead and spent the extra money and bought coda board to us to construct the stringers the transom and the bulkheads who always sit in bilge water

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #26 on: July 02, 2018, 09:35:49 PM »
So here you can see my newly cut, and resined and laid in from bulkhead. The original one was only the  7/16 front wall, IE what is infront of your feet as you are sitting in the front seats. In addition it narrows down to a couple thin spots between each of the hull peaks, which incidentally also was a t a low spot where water can pool. So of course the two thinnest spots were rotted all the way through. So I cut a new bulkhead from marine plywood but I also curly an additional bulkhead for the lower 1/2 of this only out of Coosa board, I used west system 610 epoxy to glue them together and then laid it in the hullusing the woven roving and west system 105 resin,

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #27 on: July 15, 2018, 09:03:22 PM »
Ok sorry for the delay, i donít know if anyone is even following this anymore but Iíll finish adding the rest of my photos from the process so that someone has a record or go-by later necessary, the first one you can see I halyard and glasses in the right stringer, the following photos will show the other two stringers laid in and glasses as well as the rear bulkhead and then the new transom. For the resin I continued to use the west system 105, the glass, I used woven roving on the outer stringers and I used 1708 biaxial in the center stringer. In retrospect I wish I had used the 1708 on all the mere, but it is much more expensive, takes more resin and is heavier, BUT it lays down better than the woven roving, ah well, for the rear bulkhead and the transom I tabbed these in with the 1708 biaxial, I wanted the transom to be particularly strong as I want to add a larger motor one day, maybe a 115, just not in the budget right now.

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #28 on: July 15, 2018, 09:07:12 PM »
I would like to interject on my own thread now to notify everyone that I just read back and noticed that much of my grammar is terrible, I assure you that this is my phone autocorrecting me, and is a significant source of annoyance..... carrying on... >:(

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #29 on: July 15, 2018, 09:11:59 PM »
Rear bulkhead fitting, also, I layed a layer of 1708 against the outer hull prior to installing the transom board, my main reason was to strengthen it since the resin was very cracked

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #30 on: July 15, 2018, 09:17:00 PM »
Transom tabbed in as well as the two supports that go along the side of it, rear bulkhead glasses in,

Offline Aj1

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #31 on: July 15, 2018, 09:25:53 PM »
Cutting and fitting the floorboards, this was kind of a pain, a lot of trimming then test fit then trim test fit and so on till you get the best fit, additionally an interesting point to note here, when I build the floor, I built it so that he entire floor was removable, I built little blocks that are attached at various points in the hull and on the stringers, I epoxied brass inserts on these so that I can use a stainless machine screw and bolt the floorboards down, I did this mainly so that I could perform maintenance if need be below deck, also it saved me from glassing the floor down, an added bonus is that IF the floorboards ever do start to rot, I can simply cut and fit new ones, I did have to cut and make one of the side pockets removeable to do this, but if you didnít know that it was removable then oh couldnít tell

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #32 on: July 16, 2018, 10:16:43 AM »
Not sure if I'd do a removable floor .. Would think there are a lot of the twisting forces on the hull with out floor tabbed and glass to hull.
Also don't think you'll ever need to get under floor with materials your using. Should last a long long time.
Might not fully understated what your doing / saying here ..
Gregg
'76 CV16

Offline thedeuceman

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #33 on: July 16, 2018, 10:59:51 AM »
I always just assumed that the floor being glassed / tabbed in was an Integral part of the structure of these boats


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Offline hemi RT

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #34 on: July 16, 2018, 02:51:39 PM »
Yes the floor does make up part of the integrity of the hull, without the floor attached to the sides of the hull the hull will flex more than it was designed to do when hitting waves or rough water which will result in the hull stress cracking possibly to the point of actual open cracks in the hull which will allow water in and possibly sink the boat
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Offline dorelse

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #35 on: July 16, 2018, 02:59:42 PM »
I suppose you *could* do this method provided you can insure enough anchor points to provide the same structural rigidity that glassing it to the floor would...but I'm not sure that'd save anything...

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: New guy Glastron V-166
« Reply #36 on: July 17, 2018, 11:12:32 AM »
If bottom of floor is sealed / coated with resin, there shouldn't be any reason to ever get under floor or into bilge.
Your repairs should last 40 to 50 years !
Again Ö Am I missing something ?
Gregg
'76 CV16