Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions

[pyro225]

Hi all so there is a very real chance I might have to do this fun job!

Just doing research and people are saying the stock strong is on 1/2" but what ? Is it marine ply? And the transom what size and wood is this stock and the floor again?

Also what is glassed stock as the back of my transom is mainly painted not glassed? How much glass would you think I'd realistically use on changing these three?

Cheers!

[Hyperacme]

From your post on CGOA ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11469&start=20

Some one laid a new floor over top of old rotted floor ...

I only did the floor under my splash well and transom, cut and grinded over the winter, had plenty of time so used a "Oscillating Multi-Tool" ... with metal cutting bits which lasted longer then wood cutting bits.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html

I cut out from edge of floor about 1 inch, I could see what I was cutting better then, on the hull to floor joint.
On "picture1" you can see the right side has floor cut out about 1 inch back from hull and on left side floor has been cut out from the edge of hull that supports it, and old resin ground out.

"picture2" shows every thing cut and ground, ready to lay new floor piece in, which sits on a ledge formed by chine / stakes on bottom of hull.

Others have used grinders to cut floor, but be careful as not to cut through hull.
You could use grinder to cut in a small amount then use Oscillating Multi-Tool to make finale cut.

Some G/C's have stringer wrapped better then others, guess it depends on the day / week / year it was built, or even the worker that built it.  Cut floors out and see what you got under them ...

 

[Hyperacme]

I used same thickness as stock for my floor.
But for transom went with two 3/4 inch pieces of plywood sandwiched with biaxle, then routered out section that is between splash well and hull.  There is only room for the original 1 inch transom wood between splash well and hull.
Original transom was two 1/2 pieces of plywood screwed together then tabbed and glassed over.

Your could be different then mine.

[Hyperacme]

YAHOO !
Which wood and resin to use ...

[pyro225]

Hi cheers buddy - what does tabbing mean? Also for ease I think I may well go original thickness it's lasted 40years nearly and I will be glassing the back unlike the original!

I have a multi tool so you think if i hit the hull id know about it with this? I also have a reciprocating saw you may call it an electric chainsaw? That maybe good or a jigsaw?

[pyro225]

Also do you use marine ply or just structural ply?

[dorelse]

Search out "Friscoboater" on Youtube.  He has some excellent video's when he rebuilt is Glastron SX-190.  He explains everything he did, how he did it, and why he did it.

They're excellent.

[pyro225]

Thanks - I shall take a look - what is the original floor thickness?

[Rosscoe]

Hi there
Floor is usually 1/2"

[Hyperacme]

I think yours, from the pictures you posted are 1/2 inch, mine was.
I used exterior grade plywood on my transom, but thicker and with the biaxial sandwiched between ... Should be strong enough to hold a 150 HP motor.
Also mixed some polyester resin and styrene,  50/50 and sealed all thru hull / transom holes. The mix is as thin as water and soaks into wood.
Tabbing is strips of fiberglass, layed down around edge of transom / floor (tabbing & tabbing2)

AAAAaaa....
The wood and resin question ....

Polyester : our boat were made with it.
Vinylester : newer, stronger version of polyester.
Epoxy : strongest , but you can't put poly or vinyl resin over top of it won't stick, not a big deal though.

Exterior grade : cheapest, if covered and sealed should last 30 to 40 years.
Marine ply : low voids, better glue, all holes should be sealed though, might have to be ordered from your local building supplier.
Composite : never rot, light, easy to cut, can be expensive.

Watch video Doran posted, read some the rebuild threads on here and CGOA and talk with your local glass supplier.
Shawn & Joe have some rebuild threads on this site.
Search ... fireman24mn &  thedeuceman ... postings

[pyro225]

Thanks guys... I am thinking this... ditching the hole for the speedo pickup as I will go gps - one hole less... less water!

Bolts for the output I was going to drill these holes bigger then epoxy in the holes so plastic pipe thats sealed then run the bolts through here.

Im thinking if I do that and have a good cover I should be pretty darn waterproof and a wooden transom should be fine...

Will epoxy stick to the existing stuff is it only the other stuff doesn't stick to epoxy?

I was going to get archly 12mm x2 but my building merchant says mahogany ply is 1/3 less money not sure if birch is any better?

Cheers

[pyro225]

Also - cut the floor out around the seat bases I don't think it was ever a new floor I think someone just painted it and ripped me off...

Anyway I have cut back all the delaminated stuff and plan to put more cross members in and and then glass it back...

I have also puttee out all the foam I can get as it was drenched then is a couple in the rear well I can't reach and may leave as I don't want to cut that too...

Whats your views on the stringer - I can't see anything in the bottom still and glass looks solid guessing she's sat in there?

Cheers

[pyro225]

any thoughts to the stringer? or if it has one or does it just have the two at the sides? need to make sure i understand this before laying the floor and splitting ideally

[Oldfishguy]

Hmmm.

I think I'd be removing all the wood aft of the front kickboard at this point.  You only want to to this once so clean it out back to the transom and then you will see what you have back there.  Most of the floors fail aft of the seats.  Keep your seat boxes and mark where they are removed.  Grab that oscillating tool and peel up that wood on the edges so you have a few inches on each side to lay down he new wood in.

Let me see if I can resurrect an old thread of my rebuild and put some pictures in for you.

Don't expect much in he way of responses for a few days as many in the group are at our annual gathering; I'm stuck working so I'll try to formulate a few things for you when I can.

Best of luck.

David

[pyro225]

Thanks David - I'm very jealous of only I was closer!

So your saying get the saw under those inch wide bits take it back to glass to lay it on? And then cut up to the fromt? I can't do that.

My main concern is opinions on the stringer now is it in that glass of so I'd imagine it wouldn't need doing?

I now have a new problem /question if water gets either side of the main channel /bilge will it end up in the splash well and be pumped out?

Basically I had a sheet over it and we had an unexpected storm and it blew a corner up whilst I know all rain in the center would go to the splash well I want to Mack sure that if any got either side of those long planks that I'm not going to seal it in with a new floor as that would be very stupid.

What do you think? Cheers!

[Oldfishguy]

Your floor stringers are a little different than mine; I have a single stringer on my older machine.  But yes, you're going to want to dry everything out before you start with the resin.  If you don't want to go forward removing the floor that is understandable, just add a few cross supports under the floor where you do the splices.  And I would use an oscillating tool to remove anything close to the hull.  With this tool you will have better control as you definately don't want to cut through  the hull.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/oscillating-tools-accessories/tool-shop-reg-2-amp-corded-oscillating-multi-tool-kit-7-piece/p-1455839708341-c-12869.htm?tid=4402158970457542345&ipos=2

I would definitely pull the floor out all the way back to the transom though; you need to see what you have under there as far as how solid are the stringers.  It is a tough place to work but by doing this you will get a better look at how solid your transom is too. One only wants to do this once. 

Here is an old rebuild thread I just repaired the links to old pictures and a video.  I hope this helps, best of luck.

David

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.0
 

[pyro225]

David thanks for your help - great to know someone else isn't at the meet!

so would you say that look like I may have two stringers? if so they are in bad shape I think if I can dry out and glass they should be good... I can't get to the front though so guessing if they are ok all the way back I will have to hope for the best up there?

I used one of those tools I used an aggressive blade and I have cut a few mm into the hull at some points guess a bit of resin and glass will be for to pat the up (didn't go through as far as I can tell!)

As far as cutting back to the transom - I have foam boxes either side are they ok to stay? if so I will just cut right up to them.

As there is a bit of depth there I will use my reciprocating saw and switch to the multi tool at the end!

Cheers
Dan

[pyro225]

This question is mainly aimed at Gregg...

I have ended up going with polyester resin as for one reason or another for the lot. Ordered 20litres. I was going to order the styrene so I Gould mix 50/50 as you say for soaking into the ply however I notice a warning saying only mix 10% styrene as and more could alter the outcome of the resin... also the resin has 35% styrene in anyway...

My question is would you still go 50% or would you just go with 10% ?
Cheers

[Hyperacme]

Yes .. go with Mfg. recommendations of 10%.
They know far more about there product then I do.
That might have been why I had a hard time getting it to kick / harden.

Your boat construction is different then the USA version.
I would note how your was put together and rebuild the same way.
Take notes, pictures and drawings as you cut old wood and glass out.

[pyro225]

Will do - is it normal for the inside of the transom not to be glassed just painted? This seems a roger Clark thing as my ssv151 was the same but my other ssv (not rc) was different...