Author Topic: Timi time  (Read 31991 times)

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Offline Jason

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  • 1974 CV16SS, 1986 CV23
Re: Timi time
« Reply #120 on: December 18, 2018, 07:12:30 AM »
On the CV23 where the bow flexes near the windshield the rub rail kept coming off and the top have of the boat would come loose from the bottom half. It just had screws going into the wood. They were stripped out so I replaced with screws and nyloks and have not had a problem since.
Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #121 on: December 18, 2018, 10:50:52 AM »
Why was it so hard to get the top deck on? To me it seems like you are just pre loading the hull to cause stress cracks in the future.  When I put the 23 hull back together I did not have much trouble at all. I did not use any straps, come alongs, etc.  I would guess when you glassed in the new supports in the different areas, the top deck or the hull was not supported correctly, therefore deforming the hull shape and causing the fitment issues.

Just my thoughts, but it should essentially go back together just like a shoe box lid. It should be tight and take a little work but having to use mechanical means/ force to pull, push, twist sounds like it could cause issues later on.
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #122 on: December 18, 2018, 11:20:58 AM »
      Well, a shoebox fit it is not, but I attribute most of that from being separated for so long, 2+ years.    I took measurements of the width at 6" intervals and the lengths overall so I had a reference when it came time to replace the stringers, floor, transom, and top reinforcements.  I kept these dimensions, but in the end the bottom relaxed about 3/4" bow to stern.   Or maybe the top shrank 3/8" and the bottom flattened 3/8"?    Most of the fitting work came from having to redo the entire edge, the front nose area on the top was more rounded, the bottom more triangular.   As the trouble areas were dealt with, the fit became easier.   I plan to seal and install the first layer of screws all the way around, let it sit for awhile, then tackle the body work.   There is so much cracking in the top, some areas will need to go all the way down to the fiberglass to determine if even more glass work is required.    Is there a way to insure the new finish wont crack?   I doubt it considering I do plan to use the boat, the beauty of automotive finishes is the ability to repair it.    The CVZ has been re sprayed in areas four times from dock rash, the subwoofer cabinet broke at a corner from flying on the St Croix.    I do appreciate the concern Shawn, but at this point, I need to work it through the issues.   All projects have their setbacks

Now maybe if I knew someone in the automotive industry that could mount the entire boat to a jig and shake the s*** out of it to help relax the fit?.................
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Jason

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #123 on: December 18, 2018, 12:08:06 PM »
I bet it was a tight fit from the factory and is maybe the reason for the tapered grinding on the rail. Not that it was the correct fix but saved them from scrapping a mold.
Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #124 on: December 18, 2018, 12:39:11 PM »
     You know, that is plausible explanation of why they ground a bevel all around.   Made the joint fragile, but it got it out the door.    The CVZ is a 79, this Timi is an 85, there are a number of areas that were done on the Timi that indicate some shortcuts were taken.    Thank you for that observation.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline RedOctober89

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #125 on: December 18, 2018, 01:14:11 PM »
Definitely sounds like a logical reason why they tapered that edge.
I don't have any experience with older Glastrons but I can for sure see a lot of shortcuts and poor workmanship in my '89.
But that happens when production can't keep up to sales!

I like the idea of using bolts/washers/nuts to hold the seam back together!
Andrew C.
1989 Glastron Carlson 23 CSS 350 Mag - Red October
Follow the project on Instagram: redoctober89

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #126 on: December 18, 2018, 01:32:48 PM »
I have not had any new cracking on my 23. All areas that had spider cracking that I found when I started restoring were noted. I then tried to determine what would have caused it. Most if not all the cracking I had was caused by hard points or lack of structure/ support.  All the spider cracking was ground out and filled. Depending on the areas and how deep the cracking was, would determine if I would re-glass or just fill it with filler.

The problem area I had was also the bow as well.  Bottom or top seamed to have shrunk/ lengthened as well. I am pretty sure mine was in the top half. Think of the deflection. It the tip of the bow is pushed up or down an inch or less it will lengthen or shorten the total overall hull. Before I first removed the top half on mine I measured and marked the hull as well so I would have the correct spots. I also cut 2x2's and fit them in before the hull was split. Once split I did all removal and grinding. Then once it was time to rebuild bottom of hull I installed the 2x2's to help hold the shape. I did fit the top again before I did major work to it. Then took more measurements so I could flip it and recore the deck.

As far as trying to prevent future cracking. I would relief cut any areas that are currently stressed and reglass. Make sure you don't have hard points and ensure there is good reinforcements/ structure where needed. Example of a hard point would be on almost every CV-23 there is a stress crack on the passenger side just below the windshield. There is not enough structure/ support and it flexes/ pushes on the same spot over and over. Another spot is on the lower hull where the cuddy floor and the main floor meet, they crack there because of lack of structure.

Also are you putting the Gen 1 drive back in it or going to Gen 2? I have the factory Mercruiser bracket for doing the cut out. And manual for setting up a blank hull.

Good luck with everything
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #127 on: December 18, 2018, 02:57:08 PM »
Some closer observation reveals that I'm increasing the contact area at the rub rail slightly as well.  Both sides taper slightly, the further you mate them, the more difficult is is.  This is most notable on the bow and stern.  Really only one area on the starboard stern had to be cut out to relieve the stress.   Current level of cracking?  Everything was so rotten when I started that I'm surprised it didn't buckle in half.  Attached are some examples.    As for drive, I have a template, raised 1", Bravo 1 drive.  Same pattern as Alpha, just two more bolt holes to drill.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #128 on: December 18, 2018, 02:59:37 PM »
Whoops, forgot the pictures.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #129 on: December 18, 2018, 03:45:34 PM »
Don't most of the Intimidators have stress cracks in the same spot as the first Pic. I am pretty sure Tims does. I think his was pretty rotten as well though.
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #130 on: December 18, 2018, 03:50:52 PM »
Think your right Shawn.
Tim added more support on his.

Every one I've seen has cracks to the side of rear seat.
Except (Maybe) Tim's Dad's Timmi.

Jason's idea sounds good.

Offline Terry_Curran

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #131 on: December 18, 2018, 05:05:50 PM »
I don’t have any pictures, but yes, my timi is cracked in the same spot by the rear seat.

Offline still_fishin

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #132 on: December 19, 2018, 06:51:01 AM »
Both of ours have the cracks. 

I added two supports (3/4" X 4" plywood)  that are tabbed to the floor just ahead of the motor and are bolted to the part of the deck that goes behind the rear seat.  I can find pictures if needed.  I think the deck near the motor on the intimidators flexes a lot under normal driving conditions and that flexing is focused at that point. Before I rebuilt mine while it was on the trailer you could push up really hard on the side of the boat just under the rub rail where the rail curves to meet the bow  (maybe two to three feet ahead of where the tie off cleats would be)  and the cracks at the back seat would open up considerably. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

'80 Intimidator
'85 CV23

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #133 on: December 19, 2018, 09:16:03 AM »
I would consider coring that area and adding the extra reinforcement. If its a known problem area then I would add more strength to hopefully solve the problem. Look at Tims and terry's and your Mike and figure out where they crack & flex then add more support to them. No better time then now. A boat shouldn't stress crack from using it unless you are really beating the holy crap out of it.
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #134 on: December 19, 2018, 11:11:52 AM »
I believe that Terry's, Tim's, and my Timi suffered from the same condition, rotten wood support structure.  I've added to areas that I already replaced wood to hopefully stem off and prevent future cracking.  Like to hear from any other Timi owners that have had cracks develop after a restoration project.  As for cracks that could develop from "beating the crap out of it" it can, and probably will occur over time since what fun would there be in driving it mildly around?   
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #135 on: December 21, 2018, 09:27:46 AM »
Found some coral Timmi pictures while looking for CV23HT pictures.
Believe the only one I have ever seen, COOL color !

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #136 on: December 21, 2018, 09:29:42 AM »
 :)

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #137 on: December 21, 2018, 11:15:55 AM »
Beautiful photos, thanks for sharing.  I assume that is what my Timi looked like in it's heyday.  My current plan is a similiar paint scheme, but was thinking of the swoosh not having that transistion in the middle, and no separation line(3/4" blue).   I was thinking about following the hull line with the bottom swoosh to the bow, like the older Glastrons.   Still a long way off for paint.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline still_fishin

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #138 on: December 21, 2018, 11:22:19 AM »
I talked to the dude that owned that boat a few years ago. He said he sold it to someone in Austrailia. It now lives in a museum.
'80 Intimidator
'85 CV23

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #139 on: March 17, 2019, 02:52:15 PM »
Happy St. Patrick's day.  Just an update on the Time project.  Bodywork has gone slowly as majority of time has been spent on the power train this winter.  I can't stress how important it is to start a project that has all of it's parts, functional or not.  I purchased a complete out drive with transom assembly, and the engine, boat, and trailer came with it.  Some of the items it didn't come with, oil pan, water pump, pulleys, pan bolts, timing cover, balancer, flywheel, coupler, bell housing, starter, fuel pump, carb, etc.  In addition the sea pump required rebuilt.  All new hoses and belts.  Intake, exhaust, ignition, in the end I basically started with a block, crank, and heads.  It did come with an alternator, but it was locked up.   I bought a pretty new one, but I was assured the thin cad plating would rust nearly instantly in service, I decided to paint it to keep it looking nice.  It's never going to be cleaner than right now, so that helped the decision.  Rust-Oleum makes a high temp silver than looks very close to bare aluminum.  The other is gloss black engine enamal.   Alternators can get quite warm in service, so a high temp paint is advised.  Hardest part is masking the SS screen. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude