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Repowering a Classic (cont'd)

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Dyounge:
I went and looked it over and it appears to be everything the guy said. Compression was 140 and 135 on the top two cylinders and 125 for both bottom cylinders. A guy in a Yamaha Outboards facebook group claims stock compression is 130 on the top two and 120 on the bottom two. The heads are made that way. I take that with a grain of salt and will try to veify tonight, but, still, the motor seemed very solid, made no weird noises on cold startup, amsoil fluids used, gear oil looked normal, went into gear normally, no visible leaks. I think I'm going to go for it and make the deal. Short video of it running attached.

dorelse:
Sounds like a winner to me!

Dyounge:
I'm an owner!! Thanks to everyone who has chimed in over the last few months. Can't wait for Spring!!

Hyperacme:
When I get a new / old motor, I'll tilt it up, remove plug, rotate piston to near TDC, squirt Deep Creep into cyl. and let sit, then repeat a few times to each cyl. over the course of a day or two. As you rotate crank/pistons the deep creep will run down exhaust and loosen gunk and carbon in exhaust system. Do it in early spring so you can start motor while carbon is still soft.
You'll get huge clouds of white smoke and sludge dripping out of exhaust .. warn neighbors !   … LOL
It could (Maybe) even out your compression numbers (Maybe) ..

I also (on new/old motor) replace all fuel lines, fuel filters and oil lines. Also make sure your fuel tank is clean and rust free if it's metal.

Not sure if this applies to Yamaha's ..

But I check oil pump linkage to make sure it set to open fully at WOT setting.
I pump a shot or two into grease zerk on motor, I get a few drops of water out of steering swivel every year.
I'll add Star Tron to fuel tank, run motor till treated fuel is running into motor, pull fuel line off motor, run as long as it can, then remove float bowl drain screws on carbs to drain the last small amount of fuel left in bowel.


 

Dyounge:
I will do exactly that! Thank you Gregg

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