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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Terry_Curran on Today at 05:05:50 PM »
I donít have any pictures, but yes, my timi is cracked in the same spot by the rear seat.
Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 04:19:12 PM »
Glastron Fireflight boat - $6999 (Cove & Kanner)

1958 16 ft. Glastron Fireflight boat with 1960 75hp Evinrude Motor. Completely restored with custom paint, new trailer, new custom Bimini top, new wiring, new battery, 2 new 6 gallon gas cans, new windshield, new custom seats, restored original steering wheel, lights and cleats.
The Evinrude Motor has been completely gone through. It has roughly 8 hrs on it since the overhaul.
$7,000 or best offer.
Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 04:08:21 PM »
1976 Glastron Carlson Day cruiser type boat - $1800 (Chico, Ca)

460 Ford motor. Been sitting and has not run for a year. Good price for a lot of boat. Get to the river or lake or Delta and escape the oppressive heat for a while. A great boat to sleep and camp on.
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 03:50:52 PM »
Think your right Shawn.
Tim added more support on his.

Every one I've seen has cracks to the side of rear seat.
Except (Maybe) Tim's Dad's Timmi.

Jason's idea sounds good.
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by fireman24mn on Today at 03:45:34 PM »
Don't most of the Intimidators have stress cracks in the same spot as the first Pic. I am pretty sure Tims does. I think his was pretty rotten as well though.
General Discussion / Re: T 179 Starflite
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 03:39:16 PM »
Email them to

And I'll post them for you
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on Today at 02:59:37 PM »
Whoops, forgot the pictures.
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on Today at 02:57:08 PM »
Some closer observation reveals that I'm increasing the contact area at the rub rail slightly as well.  Both sides taper slightly, the further you mate them, the more difficult is is.  This is most notable on the bow and stern.  Really only one area on the starboard stern had to be cut out to relieve the stress.   Current level of cracking?  Everything was so rotten when I started that I'm surprised it didn't buckle in half.  Attached are some examples.    As for drive, I have a template, raised 1", Bravo 1 drive.  Same pattern as Alpha, just two more bolt holes to drill.
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by fireman24mn on Today at 01:32:48 PM »
I have not had any new cracking on my 23. All areas that had spider cracking that I found when I started restoring were noted. I then tried to determine what would have caused it. Most if not all the cracking I had was caused by hard points or lack of structure/ support.  All the spider cracking was ground out and filled. Depending on the areas and how deep the cracking was, would determine if I would re-glass or just fill it with filler.

The problem area I had was also the bow as well.  Bottom or top seamed to have shrunk/ lengthened as well. I am pretty sure mine was in the top half. Think of the deflection. It the tip of the bow is pushed up or down an inch or less it will lengthen or shorten the total overall hull. Before I first removed the top half on mine I measured and marked the hull as well so I would have the correct spots. I also cut 2x2's and fit them in before the hull was split. Once split I did all removal and grinding. Then once it was time to rebuild bottom of hull I installed the 2x2's to help hold the shape. I did fit the top again before I did major work to it. Then took more measurements so I could flip it and recore the deck.

As far as trying to prevent future cracking. I would relief cut any areas that are currently stressed and reglass. Make sure you don't have hard points and ensure there is good reinforcements/ structure where needed. Example of a hard point would be on almost every CV-23 there is a stress crack on the passenger side just below the windshield. There is not enough structure/ support and it flexes/ pushes on the same spot over and over. Another spot is on the lower hull where the cuddy floor and the main floor meet, they crack there because of lack of structure.

Also are you putting the Gen 1 drive back in it or going to Gen 2? I have the factory Mercruiser bracket for doing the cut out. And manual for setting up a blank hull.

Good luck with everything
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by RedOctober89 on Today at 01:14:11 PM »
Definitely sounds like a logical reason why they tapered that edge.
I don't have any experience with older Glastrons but I can for sure see a lot of shortcuts and poor workmanship in my '89.
But that happens when production can't keep up to sales!

I like the idea of using bolts/washers/nuts to hold the seam back together!
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