Author Topic: Fiberglass Resins  (Read 7321 times)

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Offline WetRaider

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Fiberglass Resins
« on: March 06, 2012, 06:46:15 PM »
For the fiberglass maestros out there ...

What are your favorite resins and why? 

I need a resin with a decent pot life.  I'm accustomed to fabricating car stereo components where I stretch dry fleece over my forms and paint the resin on.  I typically mix a batch with about a 20 minute pot life ...

I can't see how 20 minutes is sufficient to do a complete floor.  I know I have transom troubles because of the way the PO assembled ... so I'm going to have to check out my floor, too.
If you didn't get wet, you didn't have fun ~ WetRaider

Dan O'Connor
1979 GT 150 / 1976 Mercury 1150

Offline 75starflight

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2012, 07:25:56 PM »
Dan I use the resin and hardner from my local Napa store. I was seeing work times of 20 to 30 minutes in small batches. I have also read that you con increase the work time by thinnint it with acetone.
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Offline dorelse

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2012, 07:36:59 PM »
I just buy the stuff from Home Depot...
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Offline Rich_V174SS

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2012, 08:41:34 PM »
I've use the resin from Home Despot and had an issue with it, I'll not use it again. When I was doing my floor one whole section started to kick and set unevenly before I finished and I had to tear it up, re-sand the area and do it again. I went back to using Boater's Resin from West Marine and have been happy since. I thought it was just as good as Evercoat's Premuim Resin but at a third the price.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
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Online Hyperacme

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2012, 08:45:04 PM »
I got mine from Home depot also ...
If you cut and fit all the cloth/fiber before hand, mix up a little more resin then you think you need and get a small roller you can be done in no time.
Gos pretty quick if you think ahead ...

Offline dorelse

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2012, 08:46:16 PM »
I've had similar issues...not to that extreme maybe, but I find it to be very temperamental, and very touchy to temperature changes.  Its 1/2 mile from me...so I've just learned to deal with it I guess.

I'd go with whatever Rich recommends!!!
1990 Sierra 1700

Online Hyperacme

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2012, 08:47:52 PM »
" I'd go with whatever Rich recommends!!! "

Yep ... What Rich said ...

Offline Jerry

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2012, 09:25:00 PM »
OK Lets give this a shot.
First resin is resin is resin wherever you get it. However there are two types of polyester resin. Laminating and surfacing. The surface resin has 4% wax in it so it will dry, I assume the "off the shelf" stuff is surface. I get Bondo resin at Auto Zone. There is also Vinyl-Ester that is stronger, but you don't need it. all our boats are polyester.
Second MEKP is MEKP wherever you get it. Period. The thing is THIS IS CHEMISTRY!!! you can;t guess. The amount of MEKP you add to the resin determines the flash time, as does the temperature. There's a chart (Express composites has them) that will tell you how much MEKP to use at what temp. It's a percentage. Normal is 3%. I use a baby medicine thing to measure with. If you want it to kick slower, use a little less, but if it dries before it kicks, well that's a whole nother problem. Do it right the first time.

DON'T GUESS or you will be tearing your floor up and doing it over. Trust me It wasn't the Home Depot resin that was bad.
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Offline WetRaider

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2012, 09:33:19 PM »
Thanks, I'll look it up.

My fiberglass work in the past has not been flat surfaces - they've been very organic, freeform shapes.  With the fleece stretched out, it's really hard to use a roller.  We usually had all hands on deck, with latex gloves up to our armpits ...

The guys that did this beast taught me how to build my forms and stretch the fleece.  They'd only let me watch the fiberglass on this vehicle ... it won Best of Show at CES in Las Vegas.  Land Rover purchased from Hollywood Pictures - it was the taxi cab used in the 1995 Judge Dredd movie.  Opaque black lexan windshield, joystick controlled & video monitors display 360 degree camera views ...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1065649410043314730JzwXJj


Jerry - thanks for the input.  I've used the bondo brand plenty.  I usually mix it with some actual bondo, too for a finish layer on some of my wavy stuff - easy to sand/rasp down as it is curing.  I'll dig up that chart and make sure I mix properly.  Affected by humidity?
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 09:39:34 PM by WetRaider »
If you didn't get wet, you didn't have fun ~ WetRaider

Dan O'Connor
1979 GT 150 / 1976 Mercury 1150

Offline dorelse

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2012, 10:19:40 PM »
Jerry - The stuff I get from HD is Bondo brand as well.

I always mixed it according to the instructions, which was very inaccurate...12 drops per some oz...and I'd try to adjust up or down depending on the temperature.

I'd use it until it began to kick...sometimes I'd get it all down, sometimes I'd have some loss too, which was frustrating.  I should have used a medicine dropper...that's a good tip.
1990 Sierra 1700

Offline OleRed

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2012, 11:14:54 PM »
I got to jump in here .. I've bought the resins from home depot, autozone, and Oriely's, when I was in a pinch ... but ya Got to look at the dates on that stuff, the polyester resin only has about a two month shelf life, it's on the can, after that, it's unpredictable, and the vynal ester the same, but even shorter shelf life, if it's not shaken often,  it starts thickening up with-in itself.   If you try to slow down the kick time by reducing the amout of mekp, you may have to go through the take if all off and do it again deal, that sucks !  and it Does make a difference on the percentage of the peroxide in the mekp, it comes with 2% or 4% by volumn, for cool or warm weather use, most general purpose mekp is 2% .. ( I think)

I don't measure the stuff really, I been doing this for a long time, just kinda guess what it takes, temp, humidity, and sunlight still surprizes me, I just look how much resin I think I need, squirt plenty of mekp in it, and get it applied,  I don't have much patients, get-er-done, on a floor ... cutting the mat to fit first is a Must, lay it out, don't staple it down, then roll it back to apply the resin, pour some on the project, brush it uniform , lay the mat back in place, then pour the resin on the mat, brush it kinda uniform, then use the plastic 3/8" or 1/4" roller, depending on the weight of mat used, to distribute it evenly, then brush tip it, in a hurry.  Depending on the season, I get 2% or 4% mekp from the distributor I buy from, "custom composits" here in Okc, they use so much resin, I know I get fresh resin when I buy it, and on the same note, I buy my gel coat from Florida, from an out-fit that goes through a couple hunderd gallons a week, I know it's fresh .. it makes a difference.  I don't use the resin with the wax already added, because I most generally do multipul lay-ups, and I don't want to sand it between lay-ups, but I still scuff it up some, if it has wax in it, it dries to a slick finish, and ya got to grind or sand that off to do another lay-up, just put wax (surfacing agent)  in the finish coat,  I don't even do that on a floor, or a transon job, I grind it smooth anyway.

I've never concidered myself a pro, and  I've taken a lot of flack from others, that call themselves so, on my proceedures, but I do what works for me, and my advice to others, just get fresh product, test your skills on small areas, and then hurry up, 15 minutes is a long time when you are working with resins in warm humid conditions.
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Offline MarkS

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #11 on: March 07, 2012, 04:55:09 AM »
Not sure if this is gonna work or not, but here's the mixing ratio from US Composites;
http://www.uscomposites.com/pdf/MEKPDirections.pdf






« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 03:32:43 PM by Hyperacme »
Mark
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Offline Retro Performance

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2012, 07:06:47 AM »
It could be my imagination but Volume of material seems to have an effect on drying or"cure" time......if thin mat and 1 coat of resin is used it seems to cure more slowly..........if 5 layers of mat are done on top of each other with the same increase then in resin it will get "hot" and seems to cure very quickly.  I have seen resin smoke in these situations while curing  (not good) Like Jerry said, it is a chemical reaction. I have also had resin that I felt was "defective".........I am sure it wasn't my fault?????? LOL

Offline Jerry

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2012, 07:52:52 AM »
WOW! even the experts can't agree, That chart is less than 1%. I would never go less than 1 1/2%.  All the resin I have bought I have never seen an expiration date. I have used 2 year old resin without a problem. Now I'm going to have to look when I go downstairs. Red makes a good point, If you are going to do multiple levels you need to use laminating resin (no wax) on the bottom coat, You only want wax in the top coat. I have been using bi-axle cloth with mat. one level - done. (and strong) on the GT160 Red used Roving/with mat. (very strong)
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
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Offline WetRaider

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2012, 08:40:22 AM »
Where do you buy your mat?
I don't like the cloth much, because the weave is generally loose & if you cut to fit once, pull it, and have to set it back, the weave will allow the product to "shift" making cuts & notches not line up as they had originally.

I haven't done any fiberglass since we lived in San Antonio & had suppliers around.  Now, I live in Centerville, IA and at best have an O'Reilly's and a Napa - but neither of them stock anything larger than a pre-packaged 2 square feet. 

Online resources?
If you didn't get wet, you didn't have fun ~ WetRaider

Dan O'Connor
1979 GT 150 / 1976 Mercury 1150

Offline Jason

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2012, 09:33:39 AM »
Jason S.
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Offline Jerry

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2012, 10:13:04 AM »
Jim is an old boat guy and knows what he's selling. I think Spee-Dee goes to Iowa, ya can have it the next day at your door.

If it moves around get out the staple gun and tack it down. That's the only way to get a tight fit around corners


« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 10:28:09 AM by Jerry »
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline MarkS

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2012, 11:48:13 AM »
You guys are lucky to have Express Composites local there, I've also heard they really know their stuff!  Here's a link to their mixing chart;
http://www.expresscomposites.com/pdfs/newmixchartflat.pdf
I used US Composites because they are closer to me, less shipping $ and time.  Don't remember who's chart I used, I think it's still hanging on the wall in my garage.  (Bad memory, gotta keep stuff like that handy.)  I DID run out of resin toward the end and used HD (they stock 3M brand down here!) for the finish coat on the ski locker and floor.




« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 03:42:23 PM by Hyperacme »
Mark
1978 SSV-176

Offline Jerry

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Re: Fiberglass Resins
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2012, 02:46:46 PM »
I checked/ there are no dates on any of my resin. Red's been sniffin to many fiberglass fumes.
'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker