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Hello from michigan
Hyperacme:
Remove the rubber insert from rub rail, remove screw from aluminum rub rail, remove screws from deck to hull joint.
Inspect inner deck to hull joint for tabs of fiberglass holding two together, stern will be tabbed around splash well and transom.
I used a " Variable Speed Oscillating Multi-Tool" to do most of the fiberglass cutting.
The "Metal Multi-Tool Blade" lasted longer then other blades.
The consoles are attached to deck and should come off with deck.
You will have to remove deck to get to transom and replace.
Some have cut out fiberglass splash well or outer skin of transom to do repair, but most agree that deck removal is best in long run.
Sailor:
Once the top is removed is there a risk of the hull spreading apart when the floor is removed? Wondering if I need to install cross supports below the deck to maintain the distance between the hull edges?
Also. I think the coosa may be the way to go. The guy on boatworks today on YouTube used a lot of coosa on a whaler rebuild and it seems to work out
Hyperacme:
One of our members made some .. four of them, if I remember right .. out of PVC tubing.
That way he could slide them forward or backwards a little .. or remove them to get at certain spots, then replace when done with work.
Crappy picture .. but think you get the idea .. :-/
Sailor:
Gotcha. I?ll post a concept once I get started.
Should I move my build questions to another forum?
Hyperacme:
Keep reading and watching video's on rebuilds .. The more knowledge you have on materials and options the better chance you'll have at making decisions on what will work best for your rebuild.
AND keep asking questions !
Most fiberglass boats are built (about) the same, no matter which brand.
They were also put together as fast as possible, so a little extra care in rebuild go's a long way.
Guessing you want to move thread to a different category of this forum ?
If so .. your fine leaving it here ..
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