Author Topic: CV16-SS project (Read 9727 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #40 on:** December 07, 2022, 05:50:27 PM »

Mine was a CV16 outboard .. but same stern trim .. almost ..
I used 3M 4200 between gap on hull to deck stern seam.
Also used 3M 4200 under trim pieces on stern

Rotek · « **Reply #41 on:** December 08, 2022, 12:48:36 AM »

So no rivets or screws at all?
I see there are some holes on top too. I guess those are for the trim rivets?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #42 on:** December 08, 2022, 12:25:30 PM »

Was not attached at stern by screws or rivets.
Yes .. holes were for trim rivets.

Joe & Shawn are redoing CV16V8's .
Should be some pictures of stern to deck ..

1976 CV 16 V8 Complete Rebuild (Shawn)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8016.0

CV16 V8 restoration (Joe)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8488.0

Rotek · « **Reply #43 on:** December 08, 2022, 01:25:19 PM »

Thanks, a lot of interesting photos there.
BTW, what's going on with Shawn's project? The last post was more than 2 years ago. Was the boat ever finished?

thedeuceman · « **Reply #44 on:** December 08, 2022, 02:14:03 PM »

Unfortunately, we both kind of stalled out and got involved with other projects at the same time.
Shawn has the structure in his but the hull is still split. I never split mine, all the structural material is in, it?s just waiting to get finished maybe this winter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Rotek · « **Reply #45 on:** December 08, 2022, 03:26:37 PM »

Ah, too bad the projects stalled. It seemed like everything was going smooth. I really hope to see you guys continue. Those V8 CV16's are really something.

BTW, do you have any update about the molded dash?

Rotek · « **Reply #46 on:** December 09, 2022, 02:37:49 PM »

I have just realized that I have absolutely no idea where should the battery be placed in the CV16-SS.
Does anyone have a photo or drawing of the battery position in this boat?

Jason · « **Reply #47 on:** December 13, 2022, 12:22:07 PM »

I can find a picture of mine later but here is where it was in your boat. The wood panel that goes in front of that is split with a hinge so you can slide it forward and out.

Rotek · « **Reply #48 on:** December 13, 2022, 12:26:55 PM »

OK, got it. Thanks a lot Jason!

Jason · « **Reply #49 on:** December 13, 2022, 06:07:46 PM »

Here is what the platform looks like with a Mercruiser setup. Not sure if Volvo was much different but I am sure you can create something.

Rotek · « **Reply #50 on:** December 16, 2022, 12:00:12 PM »

Here goes this week's progress. I'd say a lot has been done

.
First we have bonded the two 15mm plywood boards to get the required transom thickness. Then the transom got couple of layers of glass matt.
While waiting for the transom to cure, the hull that will be under the floor got the nice two coats of "liquid plastic" to make sure it is 100% waterproof, if any water ever gets under the floor. The floor also got the two layers of liquid plastic. Then I realized I don?t want that stuff on the top surface of the stringer, so we had to sand it away

.

Rotek · « **Reply #51 on:** December 16, 2022, 12:08:55 PM »

Then the transom was put in place and bonded with thickened resin.
Once it cured the expanding PU foam is injected in the hollow spaces behind the transom on the left and right side. Originally that was left empty, but I thought it will be better to fill it with the foam. Looking good!

Rotek · « **Reply #52 on:** December 16, 2022, 12:18:30 PM »

The time to lay down the floor has come. Then I thought we should add some reinforcement under the engine.
Once that cured, the floor is laid down on the thickened resin around the edge and on the stringer. I feel this is super strong.
Added the engine mounts , and then everything glassed over.

Rotek · « **Reply #53 on:** December 16, 2022, 12:23:13 PM »

Sanded everything down to get the smoother finish. I don't know if that makes any sense, but I feel better now when it is smooth.
Then we built the boxes for the foam blocks. Then everything is glasse dover and left to cure till tomorrow.
More progress to come...

Hyperacme · « **Reply #54 on:** December 16, 2022, 12:29:00 PM »

Not sure about your part of the world .. but in USA the parts and design of a Mercruiser are better then the old Volvo systems.
More HP and better tilt & trim ..
Other then that .. your doing a fantastic job on your rebuild !

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #55 on:** December 16, 2022, 02:29:16 PM »

You're making amazing progress.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #56 on:** December 16, 2022, 07:51:41 PM »

That is an incredible amount of work for a week. Not sure I could get that much done in a month. Tremendous progress, wish i had your energy. Curious to jnow why you ground the top of the stringer? Was it to "bond" the floor to it with adhesive?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #57 on:** December 16, 2022, 08:42:01 PM »

" Was it to "bond" the floor to it with adhesive? "

LOL .. 3M 5200 will bond teflon to butter ..

Plugcheck · « **Reply #58 on:** December 17, 2022, 11:31:32 AM »

Having torn out several rotten stringers/floors in the past I've noticed the screws through the floor into the stringers seem to form a path for water to enter and rot the stringer/floor. Was thinking just bond that stringer to the floor with adhesive(5200) without screws? If so I'd guess the grey material on the stringer would be left intact. What product is that grey "paint" you used, I really like the look, wondering if the product is available in USA?

BTW Gregg, I'm still laughing at the Teflon to butter comments.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #59 on:** December 17, 2022, 11:34:42 AM »

One more thing, most folks have used a closed cell foam in the bilge not only as flotation but also as a means to keep the wood dry. The original Glastron flotation foam was open cell, have torn out lots of that that held water and contributed to rot.