Author Topic: 1980 CVZ 18 restoration (Read 30568 times)

Chippy · « **on:** September 10, 2017, 10:17:15 AM »

Boat purchased 17/08/19 running pretty well still hit 49 at our 3900 elevation, however intermittent cut out going into reverse. Floor all soft. Years of nicks in hull gelcoat. Top not bad will clean up nice with lots of polishing.

Chippy · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2017, 10:23:16 AM »

Started tear down engine out next week. I don't know if the mount for ski bar was factory or not. The base just lag bolted into stringers with removable bars that went towards transom and bolted to tie down bolts was still very solid.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2017, 11:09:34 AM »

That's one heavy duty ski bar !
Don't think it came from G/C, Doran would know ...
Little wet sanding, some compound, FI2, wax and she'll be shining like new !
My boat has 40 plus years of nick and gouges in it, but shined up pretty good ...
Your vinyl looks good yet.

dorelse · « **Reply #3 on:** September 10, 2017, 11:03:42 PM »

Mine didn't come with a ski bar so I'm of no help. I can tell you that there's hardly any wood where its mounted...so I don't think its factory. It would be no different than any other CVZ/CVX-18...so however they did the CVX-18 is how the CVZ would be...sure blocks a lot of the motor!

dorelse · « **Reply #4 on:** September 10, 2017, 11:06:13 PM »

BTW...here's a link to my CVZ rebuild...1000 photos to slog through...but there might be some decent reference photos in there. Mine was in much worse shape than yours.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xgnpaE0ON4hIOXCK2

Chippy · « **Reply #5 on:** September 16, 2017, 05:38:15 PM »

Ok guys got the engine out have a question. The floor and stringers are crap BUT the transom looks good!!! What would you do here? Can I leave this transom in and enhance it, or since I'm this far do I redo it?

Chippy · « **Reply #6 on:** September 16, 2017, 05:56:38 PM »

I'm trying to post more pics but it's saying upload ability full? I'm using pics from my iPhone?

Plugcheck · « **Reply #7 on:** September 16, 2017, 06:21:15 PM »

From the pictures the transom looks ok, however, the same can be said of the stringers. IMHO, if I were going to leave the transom intact, I would drill a few "probing" holes to check for moisture. You will be sanding where the stringers attach, so it's easy to check those areas as well. My cvz transom was like new halfway up, bottom half held together with resin/glass.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #8 on:** September 16, 2017, 07:59:23 PM »

Have you poked around below bolt holes ?
Didn't Doran dig out bottom half of his transom and repair with Seacast ?

Chippy · « **Reply #9 on:** September 16, 2017, 09:42:53 PM »

Bolt holes were all solid. I'm thinking if I'm doing this I want to be ready for the next 20 years with it. I'm going to do the transom but might rethink the Coosa board as after seeing how well this basically held up with the way the factory did it, i will get many more years with the way this boat will be looked after. It will be interesting to see what the base of the transom looks like next to the stringers.
I really appreciate your guys input.

dorelse · « **Reply #10 on:** September 17, 2017, 10:27:47 AM »

Quote from: Chippy on September 16, 2017, 09:42:53 PM

Bolt holes were all solid. I'm thinking if I'm doing this I want to be ready for the next 20 years with it. I'm going to do the transom but might rethink the Coosa board as after seeing how well this basically held up with the way the factory did it, i will get many more years with the way this boat will be looked after. It will be interesting to see what the base of the transom looks like next to the stringers.
I really appreciate your guys input.

The only real improvement needed is to seal all the openings with resin (keyhole/bolt holes) once its recut/drilled, so that if there is a leak, water can't get to the wood. That's the thing Glastron skipped...but if it checks out solid, you could still just seal up that bare wood and leave it.

Chippy · « **Reply #11 on:** September 20, 2017, 07:05:14 PM »

Little more work completed. You guys didn't tell me how fun getting that gross carpet up is and those huge foam boxes at the back!!! Anyway each motor mount wet but still fairly dense,the starboard stringer at the rear wet but intact. The port side completely black and rotten. Hoping the bottom of the transom ok not at point of getting the stringers out hopefully next week.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #12 on:** September 21, 2017, 08:00:11 AM »

I used a long sawzall blade to cut up my foot boxes. Ended tearing all it it out, transom, floor, stringers. I didn't want a patchwork.

Chippy · « **Reply #13 on:** September 21, 2017, 08:46:00 PM »

I agree totally. I'm taking it all out. The foam in the boxes had very little water if any but the foam along the stringers was heavy. Can't wait to drive this thing with the motor freshened up and that weight gone!!! Aaron sent pic of the new emblems being shipped and got the new hatch bolts coming as well. Still need a new vent cover on the one side if anyone sees one please let me know. Aaron has a line on some beautiful aluminum ones that are chromed but they are super expensive a little out of my comfort zone.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #14 on:** September 21, 2017, 09:56:55 PM »

My foam was saturated, each trash bag weighed 50+ lbs. I used the Carlson stickers and buried them in the clear coat. Are you rebuilding the 305 or going bigger, 350, 383, 400+?

Chippy · « **Reply #15 on:** September 27, 2017, 07:06:10 PM »

Hi guys got a little further along and have a couple questions if you would be so kind. I have basically all the floor off and the stringers out and motor mounts. I have trimmed the tabbing down to basically the channels on the bottom of the hull. In one or two of the pics here you can see how they left a small gap I would call it right next to the chines instead of going more over and up?
Should I grind these channels dead flat or should I leave a little like a pocket to hold the stringers?
Also I noticed in some spots they seemed to put large globs of glue to build space to make the floor more flush with the chine. On one side at the back there was a 1" strip under this area to make it flush. I'm not surprised just looking for some experience here. It also looked like they had glue the whole length of the stringers to the hull.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #16 on:** September 27, 2017, 08:48:19 PM »

If you can hotsy wash with soap and degreaser, then the original tabbing may be beneficial to leave in place to bed the new stringers into. I would still add at least one layer of tabbing on the new stringers as added measure.

Chippy · « **Reply #17 on:** September 27, 2017, 09:19:05 PM »

Thanks for that as the Chanel's I have now are very strong. Need to do some more trimming and grinding but don't have a hotsey after grinding can I clean with acetone ?

Plugcheck · « **Reply #18 on:** September 27, 2017, 11:17:02 PM »

Car wash? Acetone is a fair degreaser, but evaporates rather quickly. Important thing to remember is there can not be any trace of grease or oil when you start glassing the new wood in.

Chippy · « **Reply #19 on:** February 10, 2018, 04:41:53 PM »

Slowly making some progress. Decided to use a shop to put composite stringers and a new floor back in as well as motor mounts. Just did a test spot for Suntek and it looks like it will work well. Goes on thick with a little orange peel but can be wet sanded out. Motor has had heads redone but I had to order a new leg. Old leg pinion gear had damage and the plastic water pump had some melted parts. Ordered an SEI upper and lower. Will post when can.