Author Topic: Project Carla: 74' CV-16SS Restoration (Read 18656 times)

awc105 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 25, 2020, 04:56:02 PM »

Did some work on reattaching and filling in the gaps of the flanges today. I used some thickened resin to fill in the void just under the lip at the very back. Once it cured I sanded it flat and square with the existing face. I then ground away the gelcoat in the areas where new glass needed to be applied. I also removed the gelcoat in a strip about 3/4" wide all along the area where the flange was reattached, this will allow me to lay a couple layers of glass along there as well. I needed something to provide support on the bottom edge both so the the glass would adhere nicely (there's a very slight arc to it), but also to facilitate the forming of the 90 degree angle. I had an old ice cream container lid that I found in the shop, it's made of HDPE so it wont stick to the resin. I used this as the support along with a piece of 1/2" pink foam underneath, I then taped this in place. Once my setup was looking pretty good I laid down 6 layers of 3/4 oz CSM using a paint brush to apply the resin. Once it sets up I'll see where its at and decide if I need to add more. Then I can trim it to shape with the oscillating tool and hopefully sand and shape it to match the rest of the cap.

awc105 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2020, 04:56:33 PM »

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awc105 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 25, 2020, 08:23:51 PM »

Per Plugcheck's suggestion I updated the schematic. Rather than an interlock switch I am using the oil pressure switch to control a relay, this relay will only turn on if the ignition switch is on and the oil pressure switch is closed (engine has oil pressure). Once these conditions are met the oil pressure warning light will turn off and power is supplied to both the Choke/Ignition coil circuit as well as the electric fuel pump. The advantages of this are when the key is on but the engine hasn't been started the ignition coil, choke, and electric fuel pump won't have power which prevents draining of the battery. It will also shut off the ignition coil and fuel pump in the event the engine loses oil pressure while running:)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #23 on:** April 25, 2020, 08:36:06 PM »

Thanks Andrew !
Added to "CV Seats / Dash / Console" thread ...

awc105 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 25, 2020, 10:09:17 PM »

Hey no problem! Hope it helps someone in a similar situation

Plugcheck · « **Reply #25 on:** April 26, 2020, 08:23:55 AM »

Nice work on the schematic, but a couple friendly comments. The safety/interlock suggestion was for a switch that cuts off ignition power if you get tossed out of the boat. If you are using an electric fuel pump, then that should get cut off as well. I attached a picture, they are readily available for under $20 and come in various styles. Tying the electric pump to oil pressure relay might be fine, but would it require a lot of cranking if you ever ran out of fuel. Probably no different than a mechanical pump though. Bosch makes a fuel pump relay that when powered on, it supplies power for about 3 seconds in the absence of ignition pulses. Effectively this insures the engine is running to keep power applied to the pump. I can get you a part number if you're interested. Third concern is power to the circuit needs to come from the IGN terminal of the keyswitch, not battery. As shown, the oil pressure light will always be on when not running. Unless of course you are running a master battery switch, but don't cut off the auto bilge pump🙂

awc105 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 26, 2020, 10:00:53 AM »

Hey thanks for the comment, Sounds like a good idea. I have seen those bosch relays you are talking about, will look at adding one. I also really like the safety switch as well, will look at adding that as well.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #27 on:** April 26, 2020, 10:01:49 AM »

thanks for posting the drawing, its clean and simple, please post the PDF.
i agree with Mike on the "tether switch" i run on the river and these little things really get tossed around. i should put one in the BalHarber as well.
an added comment on the oil pr switch, though i can see how that would work i prob would not tie the coil to that circuit (personal opinion).
i have electric pumps in both the BalHarhor and the 1900 i sold to the kids, both in series with the oil pr switch, although i added a relay so the ig ckt runs a relay so the pump gets full voltage (you mentioned a relay i assume you are doing the same) and yes when the carb is dry it takes lots of cranking.
this year i plan to add another relay to bypass the oil pr sw while cranking so the fuel pump runs with the starter.
i used the relay because i run the carter vane pumps and they draw a fair amount of current.
also i like yer attention to detail, and that you went "old school ford"

Plugcheck · « **Reply #28 on:** April 26, 2020, 01:19:47 PM »

Here is a link to the safety relay I described earlier. It insures full power to pump as some do pull significant current. You can find them in older water cooled vws in the wrecking yard for a few bucks. I run one on my CVZ, and on several old air cooled vws. If you do run out of fuel, you just turn the ignition on/off without cranking. You'll hear the pump run for about 3 seconds, then stop.

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/v/vspfiles/photos/321-906-059C-2.jpg?v-cache=1397903792

Plugcheck · « **Reply #29 on:** April 26, 2020, 01:23:36 PM »

Another try at getting the link correct. Guess I only got the picture last time

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Relay-321-906-059C-p/321-906-059c.htm

awc105 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 26, 2020, 03:50:19 PM »

Hey thanks guys, keep the suggestions coming, I like the input. I will definitely be adding the tether switch, right next to the shifter seems like a good place to locate it. It might be a bit but I will update the drawing and include a pdf. Thanks for the link to the fuel pump relay Plugcheck! I had a feeling the time delay in order to build sufficient oil pressure to activate the switch would be a problem, I was considering using the I terminal on the starter solenoid to temporarily give the fuel pump power during cranking similar to what it does with the coil, but this relay with the timer and ignition sensing in it makes much more sense! I also checked my oil pressure switch with a meter and found out it's N.C., I was under the impression they were N.O. so I've got some other logic to flip around.

And thanks! I'm an EE for a living so I draw a lot of schematics haha and old school Ford all the way:)

Changes I will make will be:

1. Remove coil circuit from oil pressure safety switch, I agree with thedeuceman on that one.
2. Place tether safety switch between ignition switch and coil,choke circuit.
3. Replace standard relay with a fuel pump relay that has a time delay and ignition pulse monitoring

Plugcheck do you know if they make a socketed base for that relay?

I'm still not sure whether I'll actually need an electric fuel pump, but I figured I might as well put it in the design at this stage so I'll be all set when the time comes.

In other news I spent some time today sanding/shaping the glass I laid last night. The HDPE I was using as a backing worked great! It popped right off no sweat. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, I think once its faired in it will look indistinguishable. Beyond that I laid a strip of glass all along the line where the flange and cap butt together, the whole thing should be pretty strong now.

It's a pretty beautiful day in SW Michigan right now, sunny and the wind has died down!

awc105 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 26, 2020, 03:50:53 PM »

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awc105 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 26, 2020, 03:56:00 PM »

Also, I'm assuming this fuel pump relay gets its ignition pulses from the Coil -, so I could just connect it to the same place the tach gets its signal from?

awc105 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 26, 2020, 04:52:45 PM »

I found a similar relay, they call it a fuel pump "controller," but it does the same thing, this one has mounting flanges and wire pigtails on it already. Seems like a good choice.

https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html

awc105 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 26, 2020, 08:36:48 PM »

Updated the schematic to use a tether kill switch and a fuel pump controller similar to that recommended by Plugcheck.

awc105 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 28, 2020, 10:06:52 PM »

Worked on glassing in the other flange today. The previous side I am working on fairing, I'm pretty happy with the results so far, once it's been re-gelcoated you wont even know it's been modified! It's been a lot of work though, but it's a hobby right? haha

I got an order of hardware today from Mcmaster, a nice polished stainless bolt for the flame arrestor, along with a nice rubber washer, looks pretty clean. I also got the studs and nuts for mounting the carb, front was 2 1/2" long and the back was 3" I also got the bolts for my new exhaust manifold, 1/8" NPT petcock drains, and a nice Band-Style Hose clamp for the engine harness connector. Devils in the details...

My Current list of things to do is:

1. Finish the work on reattaching the flanges
2. Build the uprights that box in the the stern on both sides of the engine, with enough room for the battery and trim pump on the starboard side and other storage on the port side. I would also like to incorporate some floatation foam just for good measure, as well as the fume venting blower and tubing.
3. Build the fuel tank shelf, bow support, and ski locker. Considering getting a larger fuel tank but I haven't measured for how much bigger I can go, currently it's only 17 gallons
4. Prep the hull for gelcoat
5. Gelcoat

Hopefully this is where I'll be by the end of summer:)

demian5 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 30, 2020, 11:30:09 AM »

What motor is going back in it? The first picture in the thread looks like it wont clear the pieces you just added.

awc105 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 30, 2020, 07:20:04 PM »

Ford 302, the 888 System

Currently there is a little over 1/4" of clearance on both sides of the engine with the flanges on. The only exception is the dipstick which will need to be re-positioned. If I end up needing a bit more clearance I have room to trim down the flange a bit, but it does fit pretty nicely currently.

awc105 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 09, 2020, 09:03:50 PM »

Been pretty busy lately, plus here in Michigan the shutdown ends Monday for people who work in manufacturing, looks like I'll be going back to work! But I was able to get some work done on the boat the last few days.

I finished roughing in the engine opening, when I'm ready to prep for gelcoat I'll give it more work but for now I decided to move on. On a note about gelcoat, anyone have any suggestions for removing the boat from the trailer and supporting it? It's not super heavy, I'd estimate the whole thing is maybe 400-500 lbs...I considered buying boat stands and blocks but they're way too expensive.

Went about installing some platforms for the trim pump and battery to sit on, once they're in I'll look at boxing in both sides, using images provided by members of the forum and doing some digging I was able to piece together what it's supposed to look like back there, with a few modifications of course! Today I got the pieces transferred from the foam pattern to plywood, cut them out, and put a coat of resin on them. The trim pump is on the starboard side and the battery is on the port side.

As far as mechanical/engine things are concerned I installed my new starboard exhaust manifold, it's funny they include the pipe plugs in the kit, but not the studs the risers mount to...speaking of risers I ended up replacing those as well, osco 6351 if anyone needs the part number, I found two on ebay, one from Florida and the other from Michigan. The one from Florida arrived 3 days ago and the one from Michigan still hasn't arrived...
I bought a flexible black stainless Lokar dipstick that mounts conveniently under the exhaust manifold and doesn't stick out like the stock one. Super happy with how it mounted up!
I also pulled the Mallory YH distributor out of one of the parts-boat engines and cleaned it up, I've never worked with a Mallory before but it's really well built! Uses a reluctor setup for pulsing the ignition coil.

Before I put the engine back in I replaced all 6 of the rubber engine mount bushings, they were all pretty badly cracked. Every time I take the engine out and put it in I like to practice the alignment procedure too.

Anyways I hope everyone is staying safe! Enjoy Mothers day weekend!

awc105 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 09, 2020, 09:06:54 PM »

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