Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Grinder on March 22, 2011, 07:00:34 PM
-
Well I have most of my parts so I am starting to pull the motor. I just received the exhaust manifolds (dry joint) and they came with new restrictor gaskets, so my question is the new gaskets are restrictors sould I get the gaskets that are free-flowing or are these gaskets OK?
Craig did you use the restrictor type gasket?
-
I used free flowing gaskets. That is what came off mine when I took them apart to clean. Good luck with your project ;D I am sure it will go smoothly for you. The hardest part was drilling out the holes for the tips. and even that didn't take long. If I didn't do all the extra cleaning and had all the parts before I started this project could have easily been done in one weekend.
If you have any questions or just want idea's I think i gave you my number, feel free to give me a call...oh also I plan to get the outdrive on in the next couple weeks and back the boat in the water to test weather using the old t-stat will be ok as far as temp goes. I will keep you posted,
-
Here are some pics of the parts. The manifolds look almost new! And everthing else is new.
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0783.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0784.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0785.jpg)
-
Lookin good Shaun.
On the bottom of the manifold I would use the elbos that have a drain in them. As when I took my hoses off to do the thru hull they still had plenty of water left in the hoses. I just have brass drains in my manifolds. You should be well on your way now. Good luck Jeff
-
Thanks Craig and Jeff.
Jeff, I actually already ordered 4 of those brass 90's with the drain.
-
You say you ordered four. You planning on doing the same thing I did with my manifolds with the plumbing? I probably should have bought the elbows with the drains in them but didn't. I wasn't sure if there would be enough room between the bottom of the manifold and the power steering cooler. I figured I would just take off the hoses when draining everything.
Oh just a tip..make sure you put those elbows on before you put the engine back in the boat, otherwise its kinda a pain because of space.
-
Thanks for the tip. Ya I ordered 4 not quite sure how I am going to plumb it yet. I just want the parts here so I can get it done without having to wait for more parts! And you never know if I break one I have some spares. If nothing else Jeff could maybe use a set?
-
Jeff, Craig
What sealant did you use ,if any, to seal your block off plate?
What sealant did you use for outside on the tips. And inside tips, same stuff?
-
Shaun
I used 3M 5200 sealant to seal off every thing.
Said it was for thru hull fittings, Hope I do not have to take it apart said it was a not to come apart again.
Purchased it at Home Depot it a caulking tube.
Jeff
-
Shaun
I used 3M 5200 sealant to seal off every thing.
Said it was for thru hull fittings, Hope I do not have to take it apart said it was a not to come apart again.
Purchased it at Home Depot it a caulking tube.
Jeff
That would be the same stuff I used, I ordered mine online, I did not realize you could get it at home depot...That stuff seems to work great. I did not put it on sparingly, :D I wanted to make sure it sealed. I cleaned the excess that squeezed out as soon as possible. That stuff is sticky, and messy lol I did also put the same stuff on the block off plate. Once again I put enough on so that when I tightened the bolts the sealant squeezed out...might not be necessary, but made me feel better seeing that I definitely had enough sealant. ;D
-
Well I got alot of work done tonight. I pulled the motor after about an hour of fighting one of the rear mount bolts, and found that the bolt didn't have a nut on it was just rusted in there. So I got the motor out, took the old manifolds off and put the new manifolds on (what a pita by myself) but got them bolted on. Then I fought with the Y pipe till I realized there was a 5th bolt in the middle, after I took that bolt out it fell right off. Then I put the motor back in and started installing the S pipes and getting those to fit right. I noticed the transom might need some work not sure I will take a couple of 4" core samples on saturday. ;D
Here are a few pics
Pulling the motor
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0786.jpg)
New manifolds installed
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0788.jpg)
-
More pics
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0790.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0789.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0793.jpg)
-
Ooooh .. that baby is gonna sound Good.
-
Ooooh .. that baby is gonna sound Good.
It's not going to sound as good as that stroker, but it should sound pretty good.
-
Alex,
Did you get all your parts for your project? When were you going to start on the exhaust?
-
Great work man....keep it up!
I'm still waiting on the tips, but should be getting them soon. I've got everything else ready...oh except for my boat, which is still buried in a pole barn. Pretty sure I'll need that to start the exhaust ;D I'm probably a week or so out from grabbing the boat....so hopefully the project will start soon after.
I hope your transom isn't too bad! At least where you're drilling 8)
-
Alex, you better get at that! Boating weather is almost here.(in pa) not sure what weather is like where you are at.
Grinder, looking great! Those tips are just like mine but seem to be a few Inches longer. They have internal flappers i them?
-
Grinder, looking great! Those tips are just like mine but seem to be a few Inches longer. They have internal flappers i them?
Ya they have the rubber internal flaps.
-
Alex, you better get at that! Boating weather is almost here.(in pa) not sure what weather is like where you are at.
Well, looking at the fresh coat of snow we just got I'd say the 2011 boating season is already a lost cause...I'll just prep for 2012 ;D
Seriously man I can't wait to get this started...
Shaun - are you going to plumb the cooling hoses like Craig did?
-
Shaun - are you going to plumb the cooling hoses like Craig did?
I think so, but still not quite sure. ???
-
Shaun - are you going to plumb the cooling hoses like Craig did?
I think so, but still not quite sure. ???
I think he is waiting to hear back from me if it works or not...I'll have the news as soon as i get a nicer day, to back it in the water.
-
Craig Jeff,
Did you have to modify your S pipes? Were your pipes new? I have to cut about an 1 1/2 inches off the port side to make it fit. When I looked at the pictures of yours they looked like maybe they had already been cut? But I got the tips on, the block off plate on, the motor bolted back in, and everything sealed up.
The only things left are make the pipes fit, hook up wiring, hook up gas line, and fill with oil (this is the easiest oil change I have ever done on a boat!). The transom is not in the best shape but its not terible maybe get to that in the fall.
-
Here are some pics from tonight
That alternator bracket worked great!
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0795.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0796.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0797.jpg)
-
Craig Jeff,
Did you have to modify your S pipes? Were your pipes new?
Mine, were used. I personally did not have to cut any off, however they do looked to have bin cut off at one time. It will also depend on if your tips stick through the transom more then ours possibly. Your doing great work! And fast too!
-
Well I have most of my parts so I am starting to pull the motor. I just received the exhaust manifolds (dry joint) and they came with new restrictor gaskets, so my question is the new gaskets are restrictors sould I get the gaskets that are free-flowing or are these gaskets OK?
Craig did you use the restrictor type gasket?
Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.
Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.
-
[quote author=Rosscoe link=topic=2130.msg23182#msg23182 date=1301145090
Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.
Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.
[/quote]
I am not sure how to explain the dry joint manifold, I am not even sure what exactly they are myself. ??? This was new to me also when it was mentioned. But the brass fittings are 1"NPT ( National Thread Tap) and have a 1" barbed hose fitting. I was able to pick mine up and a local hardware store. Mine are just the elbows though. They do not have the drain on the bottom like Shaun's. As I said before I wasn't sure they would work with the power steering cooler located there.
-
Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.
Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.
Thanks Ross,
What manifolds did you end up going with, 4"?
Here is where I bought my alternator bracket and brass fittings and they worked great.
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/BARMC-50-806926 (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/BARMC-50-806926)
As far as "dry joint" they are the new style mercruiser manifolds that don't run the water from your manifolds to your risers threw the flange/mating surface they run the water through 2 ports on each side of the riser.
Here is a pic of my manifold and restrictor type gasket (they say helps keep condensation out of the motor?)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0798.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0800.jpg)
here is a pic of the full flow gasket
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/3-26-20118-30-21AM.jpg)
-
So the risers are cooled with seperate lines then the manifolds.... Hmm that would explain why there are so many fittings at the thermostat housing.
I went with 3" cast iron GLM's. I really wanted to go with aluminum but right now I am mostly interested in getting this thing on the water and see out the motor and jet are. Down the road, I may switch to 4" aluminum but I didnt want to enlarge the holes in the transom or spend the extra money.
-
So the risers are cooled with seperate lines then the manifolds.... Hmm that would explain why there are so many fittings at the thermostat housing.
I went with 3" cast iron GLM's. I really wanted to go with aluminum but right now I am mostly interested in getting this thing on the water and see out the motor and jet are. Down the road, I may switch to 4" aluminum but I didnt want to enlarge the holes in the transom or spend the extra money.
Ross,
They are cooled pretty much the same, they have 1 hose going to the riser like the old ones. the main difference is not having the water go through the flange eliminating the possibility of water getting into the motor through a crack in the manifold flange or a bad gasket.
-
But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit. ???
-
But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit. ???
The benefit is if you have a gasket failure on the older style the water can leak into your exhaust ports then into the motor, on the dry joint if you have a gasket leak it will leak outside the manifold and not into your exhaust.
-
Well I finished the thru hull yesterday. I fired it up, only for about 10 seconds because I dont have the outdrive on yet, and it sounds great. All I have left is to put the outdrive on, tighten the 2 front motor mount bolts, remount fuel seperator and soleniod. Hopefully I will get at that today an get a video.
Craig how did you mount your fuel seperator?
-
But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit. ???
The benefit is if you have a gasket failure on the older style the water can leak into your exhaust ports then into the motor, on the dry joint if you have a gasket leak it will leak outside the manifold and not into your exhaust.
Sorry to keep pounding on this but until I understand what I am missing...
The manifolds are plumbed for water cooling.
The manifolds are bolted to the heads so if those gaskets fail, you have problems and typically the risers have water going thru them as well, so where is the "dry" part? I guess maybe the if you are eliminating one of two gaskets/potential leaks its a good thing. Which part above am I off on?
-
Well I finished the thru hull yesterday. I fired it up, only for about 10 seconds because I dont have the outdrive on yet, and it sounds great. All I have left is to put the outdrive on, tighten the 2 front motor mount bolts, remount fuel seperator and soleniod. Hopefully I will get at that today an get a video.
Craig how did you mount your fuel seperator?
Good work! Make sure you align your engine before you put the outdrive on...The fuel seperator on my boat was mounted on the side on engine bay.
-
Good work! Make sure you align your engine before you put the outdrive on...The fuel seperator on my boat was mounted on the side on engine bay.
I checked the alignment and it is right on. I might have to fab a bracket to mount my fuel seperator.
-
I still need to align mine, last year when I bought it I notest it sorta had a wine to it. and after putting the engine back in and checking that. I realized the the motor wasn't aligned. :-/ but Lucky me my dad and I have a tool and have done this in the past. The past couple weeks for some reason have been cold here. So i haven't been doing much work to it lately.
If you get the chance to plumb it like I did and test it before I do let me know how it works for you.
-
Sorry to keep pounding on this but until I understand what I am missing...
The manifolds are plumbed for water cooling.
The manifolds are bolted to the heads so if those gaskets fail, you have problems and typically the risers have water going thru them as well, so where is the "dry" part? I guess maybe the if you are eliminating one of two gaskets/potential leaks its a good thing. Which part above am I off on?
Ross,
There is no water passages from the manifold to engine head water comes in the manifold an out the exhaust. The dry joint is between the manifold and riser. In this picture the water passes from the manifold to the riser and out the exhaust through the passages in the manifold/riser flange/joint. If a gasket fails inward towards the exhaust water can leak into the exhaust part of the manifold.
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/Manifold.jpg)
In the dry joint water passes from the manifold to the riser through 2 ports seperate from the flange/joint eliminating the possibility of water getting into your exhaust through the flange. Not that water can't get into the exhaust with a crack in the manifold elsewhere but that would be with both styles
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0798.jpg)
-
Shaun - once again great (and fast) work and thanks for the pics. Have you gotten the pipes fitted/fuel water separator mounted yet?
-
Shaun - once again great (and fast) work and thanks for the pics. Have you gotten the pipes fitted/fuel water separator mounted yet?
I got the pipes fitted and installed on Saturday morning and couldn't work on it again till last night. I had to cut the S pipes off 1 7/8 on the starboard and about an inch on the port. After I cut them they fit great. I finished everything exept fuel seperator bracket, and a new trim hose (on order). I brought it outside last night, hooked the garden hose up and fired it up. It sounds great!!!
-
If you get the chance to plumb it like I did and test it before I do let me know how it works for you.
I did plumb it like that article I found, for the fact that it was a PITA to get the plugs out of the manifold. I let it run for about 10-15 min and didn't see any overheating problems, manifolds were warm but not hot.
-
Anyone looking for S pipes? KIP? I found these S pipes after I had already ordered mine. They are pretty cheap.
http://www.imcomarine.com/ca_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_64&products_id=563 (http://www.imcomarine.com/ca_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_64&products_id=563)
-
If you get the chance to plumb it like I did and test it before I do let me know how it works for you.
I did plumb it like that article I found, for the fact that it was a PITA to get the plugs out of the manifold. I let it run for about 10-15 min and didn't see any overheating problems, manifolds were warm but not hot.
yeah that is how mine was. seemed to run fine and cool. The real test is when its water pumped from the outdrive out of the lake.
How about a video?
-
Ah, I see. Thanks for the explaination. I like the idea but I dont think the ones I ordered are like that unfortunately.
-
How about a video?
I will try get a video of it but it is pretty hard to convince my 8 1/2 month pregnant videographer to stand behind that "obnoxiously loud boat" ;D
-
Hey Shaun - Congrats ahead of time on the new arrival! ;) Such an exciting event. I can't remember if this is #2 or #3 for you and your wife. If nothing else least take some pictures of the thru-hull install so we can check it out. Nice score on those dry-joint exhaust manifolds BTW. I want to do thru-hull on mine eventually but only after I've completed the motor & drive transplant.
-
Thanks Kip,
This is #2, were pretty exited, but it's been 4 years since we had a baby around the house.
-
Jeff, I actually already ordered 4 of those brass 90's with the drain.
Hey Shaun, where did you order these from? I received one like this with my manifolds but its plastic. Are you suppose to put a hose on there? I dont know why it is barbed like a regular hose fitting. Looks like it might be tough to get a hose on there?
-
Hey Shaun, where did you order these from? I received one like this with my manifolds but its plastic. Are you suppose to put a hose on there? I dont know why it is barbed like a regular hose fitting. Looks like it might be tough to get a hose on there?
Ross,
Here is where I ordered mine from.
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/BARMC-50-806926 (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/BARMC-50-806926)
-
Here is some pictures from tonight.
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0805.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0802.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0801.jpg)
-
Look in good Shaun
Cannot wait to hear it , hope you will be able to come down in Aug.
-
Thanks Jeff
Here is a video
http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/?action=view¤t=MVI_0806.mp4 (http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/?action=view¤t=MVI_0806.mp4)
-
Thanks for the link.
Looks great and I bet is sounds bad!
Hmmm says 1" hose fitting and the 3/4" I got tonight were too big. I must need 5/8 ID
-
Shaun - Looks and sounds awesome! ;) Love your exhaust tips and the newer style carburetor cover is a classy touch. 8) Good work dude!
-
I am looking for some advise, it runs great till it warms up. I have never seen the temp gauge above 130. It looks like it is starting to steam out the exhaust, then it doesn't want to idle. I changed the cooling hoses around and it ran and idled great not much steam, but when I looked at the temp gauge it was pushing 220. :o I wonder if I should just bite the bullet and buy the update thermostat kit, or can I make this work? How I have it plumbed now is the top 2 ports plugged, the bottom front ports going to the bottom center of the manifolds, and the bottom rear ports going to the risers.
-
It sounds sweet - awesome job man!
Now I'm really interested in this plumbing issue...It seems like you did everything correct according to the link you posted, right? I don't get the idle issue...
-
I am looking for some advise, it runs great till it warms up. I have never seen the temp gauge above 130. It looks like it is starting to steam out the exhaust, then it doesn't want to idle. I changed the cooling hoses around and it ran and idled great not much steam, but when I looked at the temp gauge it was pushing 220. :o I wonder if I should just bite the bullet and buy the update thermostat kit, or can I make this work? How I have it plumbed now is the top 2 ports plugged, the bottom front ports going to the bottom center of the manifolds, and the bottom rear ports going to the risers.
The boat sounds great, I like the tips at water level. I don't have one of the thermostat housings off to look at, so don't take this for gospel till you look at yours, but I believe the top two ports you plugged off are the ones that give constant flow to the risers, all the time, from the little rectangle port the goes up throught the thermostat housing you have. I think the hose that goes from the bottom rear of the thermostat housing flows after the thermost opens, and the front bottom is restricted, but has flow to the log, and that may be bass ackwards, but I'm old and I can get away with things like that.
The later style thermostat housing would be safer, and look better, but there are two style of those also, like mine only has two ports on the thermostat housing to service the manifolds, and then flow from the front port on the manifold right up into the riser, I think you could do the same thing if you don't use that restricted gasket, and I have one of those thermostat housings you can have if you want to run it like that, it's constant flow. The other kind of thermostat housing, has four ports, two constant flows to the riser, and the other restricted by the thermostat.
Moral of the story ... you Must have constant flow to the risers, or it could burn up your exhaust hose's before the thermost opens. Just check it out, be sure you are not pressuring water back to the top of the thermostat, thats what the little restrictor balls do on the newer style housings, they prevent that.
-
Not sure what to tell you mine seems to be working good as far as not over heating. Yours is setup different then mine.
-
Red,
Thanks for the info and offer, but I bit the bullet and ordered the right one. Then I don't have to plug any ports and it will look alot better.
-
Look in good Shaun
Cannot wait to hear it , hope you will be able to come down in Aug.
I hope I will be able to make it, but all depends on work.
-
Shaun - Looks and sounds awesome! ;) Love your exhaust tips and the newer style carburetor cover is a classy touch. 8) Good work dude!
Thanks Kip,
That carb cover I found on ebay, for $15 I could not resist.
-
Well I installed the new thermostat housing tonight. Works great temp gauge went to 140 and it idle's great. 8) Now I just need some warm weather and I am ready for a test run. Was kind of hesitant to purchase the new style housing but now that it is in there it works better than the other one and no extra hoses with plugs that can leak/fall off. And it looks alot cleaner than before.
-
Can I (we) see what it looks like? How many hoses do you have now?
-
Was kind of hesitant to purchase the new style housing but now that it is in there it works better than the other one and no extra hoses with plugs that can leak/fall off. And it looks alot cleaner than before.
Good to hear that your motor is cooling the way it is supposed to. Sounds like money well spent!
-
Can I (we) see what it looks like? How many hoses do you have now?
Ross,
Here are some pictures of the new housing
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0820.jpg)
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0821.jpg)
-
Was kind of hesitant to purchase the new style housing but now that it is in there it works better than the other one and no extra hoses with plugs that can leak/fall off. And it looks alot cleaner than before.
Good to hear that your motor is cooling the way it is supposed to. Sounds like money well spent!
Money very well spent! No worries about a plug popping out and sinking the boat.
I noticed tonight that my motor has 2 oil fill caps one on each valve cover, are they all like that?
-
Money very well spent! No worries about a plug popping out and sinking the boat.
I noticed tonight that my motor has 2 oil fill caps one on each valve cover, are they all like that?
Man am I glad to hear it worked out - I've got the same t-stat coming in the mail right now. Getting the new piece provides peace of mind and functionality, so (as long as it works) it's definitely the way to go 8) It cleans up the front of the engine quite a bit too...
As far as the oil fill caps, my 260 also has two, so I'd assume most Mercuiser V8's are set up like that.
Good work and get that thing out on the water!
-
(( Here are some pictures of the new housing ))
That looks nice, and clean, good deal :)
-
Shaun
Did you buy this new or used?
So do you know flow direction now? It looks like you have:
A supply line from the outdrive
Large hose to the water pump
One line to each riser (In or out?)
One line to each manifold, (in or out? or are there two to each manifold?
The more I think about it and from what Red said, I think I am short lines which would make the marine machanic wrong by telling me I dont need a line to my risers.
Also my temp sending unit is mounted into my current t-stat housing. I would have to relocate. Looks like yours is in the intake. I think I have a fitting there.
-
Ross,
I bought mine off ebay from Dennis Moore. That was the only place I could find the housing with the starboard water inlet. It's the same design as the new style ('83-xx) only differance is the water inlet.
What side does your water inlet come in?
It has the water inlet from the outdrive, hose to the water pump, 2 hoses to the risers (full time cooling water to the risers), and 2 hoses to the bottom of the manifolds (has a bypass port in the housing for some flow around the thermostat to the manifolds when the thermostat is closed, and full flow to the manifold when the thermostat is open) I think this is how it is by looking at it and going by Red's description. All the hoses are out to the manifold and risers.
I think Red said his only has 2 hoses, 1 to the bottom of each manifold then his manifold feed the risers with water.
There is a couple of plugs in the housing could you put the sending unit in one of those?
-
My inlet comes from the port side.
Temp sensor could probably go into one of those plugs. Didnt realize there were any so that helps.
Sure looks clean now. I just wasnt planning on spending another 180.00ish right now. I do have a feeling I will have some oveheating issue. Not really knowing how hot risers and manifolds are suppose to get will add uncertainty. First things first...get it running.
-
If your's comes in on the port side you may be able to find used one. That sounds like you could use the newer style not sure of part number though.
-
If your's comes in on the port side you may be able to find used one. That sounds like you could use the newer style not sure of part number though.
Bingo. Seeing that the inlet's on the port side you should be able to find a used one - I've even seen new ones on ebay go for around $150.
-
Since I'll be running the hose up under the motor, it doesnt matter much except I'd prefer to come up the on starboard to keep it away from the alternator.
This is your thread,sorry.
-
Well I finally got out on the lake today, the boat sounds great, I just wish someone else here could drive it so I can hear how sounds from behind. I will have to bring my GPS next weekend and see if there is any improvements. But the speedo said 2-3 MPH faster than it did at 57.7 but we will see next time.
-
Thats plenty fast if you ask me! Hopefully you picked up a couple MPH.
-
Shaun that's awesome that you picked up 2-3 MPH. I'll bet the new exhaust manifolds factored into that as well. You know I'm no fan of the 305 but 60 MPH is pretty respectable. It will do until you get your 383 "stroker" put back there! ;D......LOL
-
where can i find an MR1 y pipe block off plate?
-
You really can just make it from a piece of 1/8 aluminum.
Just pull off your Y pipe and copy a outline of it and cut it out and drill your holes.
Other wise I have seen them on E bay and other various places.
-
You really can just make it from a piece of 1/8 aluminum.
Just pull off your Y pipe and copy a outline of it and cut it out and drill your holes.
Thats what I did
-
I was wondering why/how this old thread worked it's way back up to the top.
Been awhile since Shaun has posted. You out there buddy?
-
As long as it did, I started looking it over again.
Question....you guys with the newer Mercruisers, do you actually have PCV valves in the valve covers? Mine are just plastic elbows that don't fit very tight.
Also, anyone know off hand the diameter of those carb covers? I am wondering if one would drop over my spark arrestor. Do they just use the same center stud and wing nut. I'd likely need a longer one.
-
No PCV valves, all Mercury used were open elbows. The flame arrestor covers just use the same center stud as the flame arrestor.
-
Just curious Rich, is there any harm in putting in a PCV valve? I had horrible problems with oil coming up through the breather on the 120 and thought about putting one in the 140 before it gets installed.
-
On my old 120 from the 60's there was a filter can on top of the valve cover as a vent which I guess was to keep oil spray to a minimum. There was also a hose on a fitting that was screwed into the side of the valve cover that went to the carburetor intake horn to recirculate the crank case gases, it didn't go to the flame arrestor. The only problem I see with using a PCV is if it should get stuck closed the crankcase pressure could force oil up the dipstick tube and you could have a big mess in your bilge. I had this happen once on my engine when I accidentally kinked the breather tube going to the carb. Most modern marine engines have dipstick tubes that extend to the bottom of the oil pan so you can change the oil by sucking it up the tube. But a lot of the older engines had tubes that were more for automotive use and were not deep enough to reach the oil.
-
my 140 does not have a breather. Just a solid oil fil cap and a tube that goes up to the flame arrestor. The metal thing where the hose meets the valve cover is simply an adapter and is not a PCV valve. I guess they figure any oil that splashes up there never makes it to the flame arrestor. I never have problems with oil in this area. I would think you can do a 120 this same way.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/Boat/022609006Large.jpg)
-
Jason
Did you get everything aligned?
How did the wet sand and buffing go?
-
You had a BUFFIN' party and didn't invite ME ?
Thanks Buddy !
J/K
-
Yes, i am still out here. Just been very busy with our house remodel, i'm helping a friend build his house, and kids. Oh ya and we are expecting again, so I need to add another bedroom, never ends. But i wouldn't change it for the world. I was high bidder on a donor boat last fall, ('92 w/350 and alpha gen 2) but the owner backed out and wanted more than I bid. Oh well someday I will get a donor.
boat gyno,
i cant remember right now, all I remember is I searched for a long time before I found it. I will look and see if I can find the website.
-
I think this one would work. I don't remember what it looked like.
http://teaguecustommarine.com/index.php/tcm-stainless-exhaust-block-off-plate.html (http://teaguecustommarine.com/index.php/tcm-stainless-exhaust-block-off-plate.html)
-
Hey Shaun wait till you add that 3rd one to the mix then it really gets crazy! Congrats BTW.
Sounds like your busy but doing good. Maybe when the youngest graduates High School you'll have time to make the big meet in August!....LOL
-
" Maybe when the youngest graduates High School you'll have time to make the big meet in August!....LOL "
Nope ... He'll have to sell the CVX to pay for collage !
Good to hear your doing well Shaun ...
-
I'm still going to try get to the meet this year. Try get my oldest to come with, I think she would have fun.
-
Forgive me if you have mentioned this before, but are all the parts I need in this link? I found them at hardine marine.
http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-12550-aluminum-s-pipes-universal.aspx (http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-12550-aluminum-s-pipes-universal.aspx)
-
That looks like everything you need sans the Y pipe exhaust plug.
-
that block off plate from teague custom marine worked great! i was told its a cross between alplha and bravo. i had to smash the y pipe off with a hammer all the bolts came off except the hex in the center. it was seized in the y pipe. Did anyone have to cut their s-pipes?? im right up against the transom on the ports side..and cant even get it in on the starboard side. i know im gonna have to take the risers off at some point
-
Are you still running the original log manifolds? Everyone to my knowledge that has done thru-hull with the "S" pipes had center rise manifolds. They give you a lot more room to work with back there when doing thru-hull.
-
im running the GLM center rise conversion kit
-
Lets see some pictures of what you got. The distance from the engine to the transom should be the same on every mercruiser....
-
I think there is a little difference between the mr and the gen1.
When i installed mine did not have to cut a single thing. (Gen 1).
When installing Alex's in his CV23 had to cut the s pipe on one side as it hit the tramsom.
-
Well I got alot of work done tonight. I pulled the motor after about an hour of fighting one of the rear mount bolts, and found that the bolt didn't have a nut on it was just rusted in there. So I got the motor out, took the old manifolds off and put the new manifolds on (what a pita by myself) but got them bolted on. Then I fought with the Y pipe till I realized there was a 5th bolt in the middle, after I took that bolt out it fell right off. Then I put the motor back in and started installing the S pipes and getting those to fit right. I noticed the transom might need some work not sure I will take a couple of 4" core samples on saturday. ;D
Here are a few pics
Pulling the motor
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0786.jpg)
New manifolds installed..................When doing manifolds alone I take out two bolts and install a 6 inch piece of threaded rod....then remove the manifold and slide the new gasket and the manifold on the threaded rod......install a couple bolts and then take the threaded rod out and finish the installation.....
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0788.jpg)
-
Another one was done on CVX18 floor rebuild thread.
-
ill post some pics tonight. it looks like im gona have to cut both s pipes and mabey some off my tips.(i def dont want to do that)
-
i had a s pipe made at and Exhaust shop for mine just brought the boat to them and the made them right on the spot fit great and looked good
-
tips out the back just below the water line so it is quiet when idling
-
Jeff & Grinder's thru hull thread's ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3737.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3737.0)
Shawn ...
You had some stuff about your thru hull, but can't remember where it's posted ...
-
some pics
-
how much should i cut off the s pipes?
-
measure twice cut twice
-
The left side fits and looks like it is tight against the tramsom? And the right side will not fit? correct? If that is the case I would remove about 1" from the right side pipe and see if it fits. This id the offset of your cyls from one side to other.
-
so cut an inch off the the side where im tight? is that what youve done in the past? i need to know how much to cut off and how to measure
-
Sorry for the late reply i've been at home for a week and a half taking care of my wife and our new daughter.
Yes i had to cut both s pipes. i cut 1" off of one and i think almost 2" off the other one.
Gregg,
I think that was posted in Craig's (Shrom CVX-18) thread, but i cant find it.
-
Here it is on page 2 of this thread
Craig Jeff,
Did you have to modify your S pipes? Were your pipes new? I have to cut about an 1 1/2 inches off the port side to make it fit. When I looked at the pictures of yours they looked like maybe they had already been cut? But I got the tips on, the block off plate on, the motor bolted back in, and everything sealed up.
The only things left are make the pipes fit, hook up wiring, hook up gas line, and fill with oil (this is the easiest oil change I have ever done on a boat!). The transom is not in the best shape but its not terible maybe get to that in the fall.
-
Congratulations on the new arrival!!
-
not sure why but my but my tips came out below the water line in the exact spot as Fireman24s. i ordered the standard s pipe from cp performance. i would have liked to have gotten it a bit higher where Grinders are. i dunno if they sent me the wrong pipes or what? but its too late now.
-
Congratulations on the new arrival!!
Thanks Barb.
not sure why but my but my tips came out below the water line in the exact spot as Fireman24s. i ordered the standard s pipe from cp performance. i would have liked to have gotten it a bit higher where Grinders are. i dunno if they sent me the wrong pipes or what? but its too late now.
My S pipes are standard, i think. My tips are about half to 3/4 covered when the boat is in the water, it's better when the DNR are around. ;D
-
What is the DNR rule over there? I just checked the IOWA and they do have a 90 Db max, but I haven't been bothered yet.
-
I like mine below the water because then I can be quiet if need be. The DNR and Sheriff are usually watching the no wake zones and that is where mine will be quite and hopefully not draw to much attention. Even when on plain and running I don't think it is all that loud that water in the exhaust muffles it some. Just taking off is where it is the loudest and really draws attention.
-
What is the DNR rule over there? I just checked the IOWA and they do have a 90 Db max, but I haven't been bothered yet.
I'm not sure. ??? I live in ND, but I boat in MN.