I appreciate you guy's

[OleRed]

it seems that I have been banned, or something, from the other forums I have been participating in for Years .. I have try'd every available resource for signing in to the Fiberglassics, the CGOA and the a couple others for several days, no emails regaurding password reset, usewrname, or Nothing !
so I quess you guy's are the only one's left that will put up with me ... and I aint had a drink in a week ?  Oh Well ?

[David CVX-16]

Probably because you said you were low on money. If you flash alot of money, and spread it around, everyone is your friend. LOL 

[Hyperacme]

For the CGOA try Chris's email ...
PMing it to ya ...

[MarkS]

I shot Ken at FG an email about your problem Red, and PM'd you his email addy as well.  I'm sure it's just a "glitch". 

[Hyperacme]

Did ya get back in ?

[OleRed]

Yes !  I got logged back in on both sites ... Thanks guy's

[OleRed]

I been working Hard to get this "Dang" Celebrity done, and Sold.  so I can go to work on the emerald mist boat.  When I took on this Celebrity project, I didn't have a winter project, then the emerald mist boat came available, and I had to jump on "Red's Gold" to get it ready for a sale, changing out the motors and drives, set me behind on the celebrity project, but I got to back it in the lake today and was Shocked ... our lake only likes about 2ft being Full !  
The celebrity ran out just fine, motor and drive, but the thing is wired up a little different to the momentaty switch, from the distributor, rather than the coil, making it slow, not instant motor die's each time I pull it out of gear, idling @800rpm  I'm hoping Rich will jump in here about that.  It's a thunderbolt V module, on a thunderbold IV dist ... Ok,  thats just all I had, figured it would work.  I thinking I'll wire the detent switch thru the "-" side of the coil, rather than thru the white/green wire from the dist ?  Unhooking the green/white wire from the switch, in neutral, the rpms pick up about 100 rpm ?  hook it back up, set the idle back to 800rpm, goe's in gear just fine, idles about 650rpm, pull it out, bump the detent switch, it kills the motor, comes out of gear, re-start with the key, but the idle stays @ 650 rpm ??
un-plug the switch and the idle come up to 800 imediately ... got me confused.

[Rich_V174SS]

If I remember right the Thunderbolt ignition is supposed to have the interrupter switch wired to the module and not to the coil. I think it's still wired the same, only internally to the control module so it does the same purpose of momentarily killing the engine to allow the drive gears to disengage when shifting into neutral. The problem you describe is common with Mercruisers and is usually due to a bad/binding shift cable which should be replaced or at the least readjusted. This is the cable from the shift interrupt plate to the drive. Change it and you should be ok.

Perhaps it's a problem with the switch itself allowing some leakage through causing a drop in rpm. Is it the old style switch with the lever arm or newer style with a push button?

[OleRed]

Thanks Rich,  I didn't think about the switch leaking, that very well may be the problem, it is the small push button type, not like the old style,  I was thinking it had something to do with the module, retarding the timing, or something,  I put in a new shift cable, smooth as can be, and I'm sure the cables are adjusted properly.   

[OleRed]

Hey Rich ... I pulled the switch, put it on an ohm meter, it was certainly sticky and intermittent
What a Surprize ... no longer available, but I can buy the shift plate with the switch installed for a Measley $159
I wiggled the button while squirting with CRC electronic contact cleaner while twisting and operating it, soaked it with WD-40 and now it gives me a consistant reading. I'll get it installed tomorrow probably and do another lake test.

[Hotwired]

WD40 or ducktape will fix almost anything! 

[V153]

For what its worth my Dad always said WD40 was the best electrical contact cleaner. He was also a big fan of blowing & sucking, with comressed or vacuumed air I mean ...

[Jerry]

WD40 is so 70s (actually 40s, It was developed by the Germans in WWII to waterproof electrical stuff) JB80 really is "Twice as good", but the real deal is PB Blaster. it WORKS!

[V153]

Ehh I dunno. Am a huge fan of PB but not sure it's the right cure for cleaning electrical contacts. WD's better. I'm old enough to remember when "liquid wrench" was the cat's azz for freeing frozen bolts ...?

[Jerry]

I'de use break cleaner and a matchbook (remember those?)