Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: demian5 on April 18, 2019, 10:15:34 AM
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I searched and didn't really find anything solid.
What would be the factory prop size on my mercruiser 140 (3.0)?
What would be a good river cruising, decent speed, no pulling stuff, prop size for it?
right now it has a large prop, I think 21", unknown pitch, but I can tell you it gets up on plane fast, but only goes about 35 (GPS) at 4300 RPM.
Thanks!
Motor is fresh and im putting it back together for this season.
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4300 is on the low range of that engine's wot rpm. I am running a 21 pitch laser 2 on my v-179 starflite with a mercruiser 140 at wot I will run around 4500 rpm and my top speed is around 50 mph via gps.
Your best bet is to test props and find one you like for what you want to do.
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Thanks. My issue is the old motor broke off an exhaust valve while cruising at 4300 so thats all it had. I had to get a new motor.
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Thanks. My issue is the old motor broke off an exhaust valve while cruising at 4300 so thats all it had. I had to get a new motor.
What diameter are you running?
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1977 & 1978 Glastron P.I.G.'s list "15 x 23P cup".
Nothing for prop pitch listed for 1979 CVX's and latter Metric's.
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I had a 15- 23p, too big. Tried a 15-19p, too small. Had a 14 3/4"-21 just right. 51-52 mph at 4800 rpm.
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Interesting .. Brandon's V-179 is listed with same prop.
His boat is about 225 lbs. heavier.
YEP .. All about testing … testing & more testing !
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Interesting .. Brandon's V-179 is listed with same prop.
His boat is about 225 lbs. heavier.
YEP .. All about testing … testing & more testing !
I would love to put a 23p laser 2 on my 179. I have been looking just going too high at the moment to justify it.
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I would like to have a shop add a little more pitch to my 22P Laser II, I can get a little more then my red line on a good day.
But .. the expenses of doing it and not working so I have to go back wouldn't be worth the small amount I'd gain.
Maybe .. Maybe not …
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23p Laser II would work perfect on a CVX16SS. Excellent top end, holds well in corners, good take off. A V179 has too much hull in the water for it to work well on it but the CV's, CVX's do not.
Best prop I have found so far for my CV16SS 140.
View my results here:
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=806.msg7016#msg7016 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=806.msg7016#msg7016)
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Considerable difference between a CVX and 179 tri-hull. Not a fair comparison if only looking at props. The 23 that cames on mine was not a modern prop, more of a mouse ear. I ended up using an aluminum prop that gave decent results. It was a great boat, but if you're performance oriented, the four cylinder will only go so fast.
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So I was "given" a Stainless Quicksilver 48 16548 A40 23P Laser II. It appears to be a 13 3/4" diameter 23P prop.
I know the OE calls for a 15" 23P. Will the smaller diameter cause issues or be better than my 17" 19P aluminum I have (this new prop is much heavier)?
Thanks!
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Here is what I got
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Prop mfg. determine what diameter works best with a certain pitch, so you can't really choose what diameter you want.
Prop info in P.I.G.'s are 40 years old and technology has changed and improved, guessing the P.I.G. info is for aluminum prop ..
They are heavier .. but are also stronger and don't flex at higher speeds.
If some one gave it to you .. that's a great deal. There worth $200 to $300.
Try it ! See if it works .. If not you could have a shop pound it down to a 22P or sell it on CL or eBay and try a 21P Laser II.
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Prop mfg. determine what diameter works best with a certain pitch, so you can't really choose what diameter you want.
Prop info in P.I.G.'s are 40 years old and technology has changed and improved, guessing the P.I.G. info is for aluminum prop ..
They are heavier .. but are also stronger and don't flex at higher speeds.
If some one gave it to you .. that's a great deal. There worth $200 to $300.
Try it ! See if it works .. If not you could have a shop pound it down to a 22P or sell it on CL or eBay and try a 21P Laser II.
I actually got 2 props given to me. but this seems to be the pitch that matches what they spec out for the boat for best performance. Thanks for the feedback, it wont cause damage to be drive vs the aluminum will it?
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Nope .. Won't hurt LU .. Unless ya hit something .. LOL
That's a older style Laser II with square vent holes and guessing not a Flo-Torq hub.
We are all just guessing about a starting point for your set up.
Shoot for your max rpm's and adjust pitch from there.
Mercury PVS ..
https://samerwebapp01apncus01.azureedge.net/mmgw-env-b/filer_public/81/a4/81a4aef2-f0f5-4604-a183-d5d2cec22ea8/performance_vent_system.pdf
Info on what a Flo-Torq is ..
https://samerwebapp01apncus01.azureedge.net/mmgw-env-b/filer_public/75/59/75591e9a-8637-4e33-97b1-8a9d44b2151b/flo-torq_propeller_installation.pdf
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The aluminum prop that came with the boat has a hub that's 4 sided and come out. No, this prop has a rubber surrounding the hub but its permanent. What I hit where i go is possibly sand bars...
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Great deal! I think you'll be happy with it. You will need to modify, remove, or replace the trim tab. I believe an offset trim tab is available but I just cut a notch in mine to clear the prop.
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Great deal! I think you'll be happy with it. You will need to modify, remove, or replace the trim tab. I believe an offset trim tab is available but I just cut a notch in mine to clear the prop.
For the 13 3/4 I wont need to modify the trim tab. the larger prop cleared as well. I will need to dial it i cause the boat pulled to the left bad.
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Do you have power steering ?
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Do you have power steering ?
Nope. I read I can adjust the tab on the drive above the propeller to adjust for it.
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Yep ..
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Considerable difference between a CVX and 179 tri-hull. Not a fair comparison if only looking at props. The 23 that cames on mine was not a modern prop, more of a mouse ear. I ended up using an aluminum prop that gave decent results. It was a great boat, but if you're performance oriented, the four cylinder will only go so fast.
That's great info! I went to bolt it on and it hits the anode trim tab. Looks like I need one that clears. Anyone have one?
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Your local Merc dealer should have one for about $20.
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I've modified torque tabs to clear, IO's with power steering can use smooth tabs for cathodic protection. Figure 1/4" clearance with SS props, and closer to half if using aluminum props. Never hurt to just try it without to see how bad the torque steer is. Every bit of trial and error to get them set just right.
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Ok, what do I need to bolt the end on? My aluminum prop has a removable hub that slips on after putting prop on with castle for the retainer to install over. The Stainless prop has a pressed in hub with rubber around it and shows splines when installed, and I only have the retainer and nut that would go on. Do I need a castle spacer or something?
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Yes .. use "Tab Washer" and make sure you have "Thurst Washer" installed and clearance.
https://samerwebapp01apncus01.azureedge.net/mmgw-env-b/filer_public/75/59/75591e9a-8637-4e33-97b1-8a9d44b2151b/flo-torq_propeller_installation.pdf
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I have all of this but there are still splines above the hub when its on the thrust washer. My aluminum prop has an insert int the hub that installs after installing the prop.
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I'd guess no Gregg, in the GC world, I've only seen it on V8's. The exception is Brandon who added it to his 4-cylinder craft.
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Demian5 .. Wrong thrust washer ?
I'm not sure what your saying ?
Mike .. All my Merc O/B's and Mercruiser's had tab washer that locks nut in place.
Or are you talking about thrust washer ?
Maybe Dave P. can help ..
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More info …
https://www.marine-j.com/pdf/flotorq.pdf
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Do I need one of these on the nut end? Ill put it on and take a picture to show. I have a brass thrust washer already and I dont think thats my issue.
https://www.overtons.com/quicksilver-w-prop-washer-329589.html?cgid=prop-nuts-washers#start=6&cgid=boats-motors-engine-parts%2Fpropellers%2Fprop-nuts-washers
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You don't have one of these in there ?
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You need everything shown in Gregg's picture above.
If you get your trim tab dialed in correctly you should have almost no torque steer. My 4 year olds can drive my CV16SS with a 23P Laser II and it does not have power steering.
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You don't have one of these in there ?
I do not, and I ordered one from Sierra.
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You need everything shown in Gregg's picture above.
If you get your trim tab dialed in correctly you should have almost no torque steer. My 4 year olds can drive my CV16SS with a 23P Laser II and it does not have power steering.
Post a picture of your tab so I can use it as a starting point and understand whats happening. Thanks!
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Been so long since I've owned a non Flo-Torq prop, that I forgot about that part.
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Been so long since I've owned a non Flo-Torq prop, that I forgot about that part.
Yeah hard to pass up these free props ,man!
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Here is my trim tab angle looking up from bottom. Also my notch. Not the prettiest thing but it works!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191025/d70afb7fc0cc29372068f1c755e02bcc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191025/65f584a43d14f12ef0f9325f1daf55aa.jpg)
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I got the brass castle washer, amd I supposed to have a large star washer that goes between the castle nut and the prop body?
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Your local Merc dealer should have one for about $20.
So I ordered this and it should be here tomorrow. I pulled my old tab off and when I loosened it i noticed I could only rotate it a very little amount. Is this correct that it only rotates a few degrees? And that if i am pulling left, I should point the rear of the tab to the left (clockwise) all the way and start there?
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Yes .. Will only rotate a small amount.
You will have to test it to see which angle works best for your set up.
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Yes .. Will only rotate a small amount.
You will have to test it to see which angle works best for your set up.
How about needing the big star washer under the castle washer?
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Did a search for "mercruiser trim tab anode" and none show a star washer in kits.
Not sure if needed or not ..
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Did a search for "mercruiser trim tab anode" and none show a star washer in kits.
Not sure if needed or not ..
This would be for the prop castle washer. I see them on some, but based on your response, you may not have ever needed one.
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Setting the trim tab is simply trial and error. As you trim up/down and increase/decrease RPM the amount of torque steer can change.
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Setting the trim tab is simply trial and error. As you trim up/down and increase/decrease RPM the amount of torque steer can change.
Now that I have the offset tab, will it make a difference if i use it on a prop that doesn't require the offset tab (less pitch)? Or should I swap out to the old one for the prop with less pitch?
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I assume by offset, you mean the tab is offset to clear the prop? I doubt it would make a measurable difference changing it. If you do find the sweet spot of a given tab/prop combo, I make a mark so it can be returned to that setting after a change.
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I'm going to drop the prop off at a local shop for some work (new hub and cleaned up). Should be about $100. I also have a 15p mirage Im gonna try and barter work for trade of that prop. I don't think I will need a 15p on my 140 in my 16'.
Has anyone ever had a solid mounted rubber hub prop converted to a newer style torque flo?
Im excited about this 23p!
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Rubber hubs are round, Flo-Torq hubs are squared.
You could ask your prop shop … But guessing no you can't convert.
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Should I hold onto this Mercruiser MIRAG 48-19838A41 15.75X15 RH Prop?
Would I need something like this for my boat?
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I've never tried to run such a large diameter prop, I could take a look, but something in the back of my head tells me a 16" will hit the cav plate on an alpha drive. For a 140 Merc, I'd shoot for a diameter around 14.25" and a 21 pitch if the engine runs fair. In the end it's a bit of trial and error, find a dealer who will let you test props. Been my opinion when testing to change one variable at a time. Same manufacturer, same diameter, and model, but vary pitch for instance. Trying a 21 pitch laser 2, then a 23 vengeance, then a 4 blade trophy in 20 pitch can leave ya confused. Kinda like what are the best tires for my car. To specifically answer your question, I'd get rid of that prop, but I might try it first anyway.
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So I took both the 15p and 23p to a prop shop, talked to them and walked out with a Lazer 2 19p in trade for both. Both props I brought needed new hubs and some cleanup.
I should be plenty happy as Im going from a 15P to 19P.
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It comes down to testing now …
You need 4200 to 4600 RPM's and mid to high 40's MPH.
Try to test all props on the same day, different temp's and water conditions can make a 1 to 3 MPH difference.
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So I took both the 15p and 23p to a prop shop, talked to them and walked out with a Lazer 2 19p in trade for both. Both props I brought needed new hubs and some cleanup.
I
I should be plenty happy as Im going from a 15P to 19P.
. I think you should be happy with that prop, 19p might be a little lacking in top end speed, but you need to test it. Really decent deal though, 2 for 1 when those 2 required work.
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. I think you should be happy with that prop, 19p might be a little lacking in top end speed, but you need to test it. Really decent deal though, 2 for 1 when those 2 required work.
Thanks - I figured it would be better than what I have and if I decide to throw 4 adults and gear and coolers in there, it will still get out of the hole decently. Where I go, there are jet boats and all the trick stuff, so I don't need to be the fastest on the water, just reliable and fun.