Post by: RedOctober89 on January 01, 2018, 08:39:32 PM
The boat had hit a rock and damaged the hull right below the gas tank, it was patched when it happened 10 years ago, but the patch didn't hold. My plan is to pull the floor and tank to fix it properly, along with some other updates and repairs.
Here are some pictures!
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 01, 2018, 08:47:40 PM
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on January 01, 2018, 09:00:54 PM
Quote
It runs, it drives, it's in really good shape and it also slowly sinks..
Although a sinking boat isn't funny, I had to laugh at your description. All in all it looks to be in great shape. Nice score.
Post by: Hyperacme on January 02, 2018, 10:03:52 AM
Lot of work ... but boat looks to be in great shape otherwise...
Well worth fixing !
Post by: Jason on January 02, 2018, 08:33:01 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on January 02, 2018, 08:54:18 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 03, 2018, 05:21:05 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180103/c7eed47ea688664915d7b0b8526cdf9f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180103/86dffdf0af99730127b20db92ea18405.jpg)
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Post by: Plugcheck on January 03, 2018, 05:32:29 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 03, 2018, 05:43:47 PM
I’m not really sure of the work it would be to split the top and bottom, or if it would even be beneficial. Definitely open to suggestions!!
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Post by: Plugcheck on January 03, 2018, 07:57:31 PM
Post by: Jason on January 03, 2018, 10:28:09 PM
Post by: dorelse on January 04, 2018, 09:19:43 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 04, 2018, 09:24:43 AM
Here is a pic of what the floor structure looks like.
Here is a link to my complete rebuild. There are a lot of pics throughout the whole process.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 04, 2018, 09:27:19 AM
Well, yeah, but he has a lot more than just sanding to do...all that gel around the 'hole' needs to come off back to good solid gel. Can you repair that with it upside down? I'd think the gel would just run down until it cured.
All depends on how you do it. If you are spraying it won't be a problem unless you put to much on. Rolling or brushing again unless you put on really heavy coats. Just put on light coats and more of them. Think of a car there are a lot of spots that are upside down when painted, like bottom of doors, bumper, rocker panels, etc.
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 04, 2018, 10:07:52 AM
I don't really want to split it either, and having bridge cranes at work I should be able to rig up a framework to support it while being flipped. I know it doesn't sound easy but I think it might be the best way.
The other option is to take it off the trailer and work on it on its side, leaning on the half of the hull, then work on the other side. But still doesn't sound as nice as it being upside down.
I have read through your rebuild thread Shawn, you did a great job on that 23. It definitely looks much easier to handle in 2 pieces.
Thanks for the input guys!
Post by: thedeuceman on January 04, 2018, 10:41:53 AM
Although I didn’t have to do a major repair like yours, on our 1900 I did do all the minor repairs to the bottom and gel coated the entire thing with it hanging from the ceiling. I did not need to split the hull, and wasn’t willing to try to figure out how to safely flip it. Just a note on leaning it up on its side, I did that with our GT 150, I thought i had supported it well enough but the starboard side did gets pushed in a little bit from it sitting in one spot on the rub rail.
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Post by: thedeuceman on January 04, 2018, 10:54:27 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180104/dbf7c51f50deaf09b458ba26faa6ccab.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180104/eb743851fe6107c9ba28f50cf01cf307.jpg)
This brace with 2 comalongs held the front up, The back at a strip through the tow hooks.
Not sure if you could pull something like that off with the 23 or not. I fabricated a 90° fitting to hold the cup on my spraygun and sprayed the gelcoat on the bottom, I did not sand the entire bottom left it orange peel
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Post by: Plugcheck on January 04, 2018, 11:19:13 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 04, 2018, 11:40:33 AM
While some like roller trailers, others dont. I personally cant stand them and won't own one. Here is a pic of the indents left by the roller trailer mine came with. One problem was that it wasn't set up right. However if not supported well they can and will leave indents, if the boat is not properly cared for.
If you have access to a crane I would flip it as well. It is much easier to work on. I missed that when I read it the first time. There would be a lot of work to split the hull just to work on the bottom.
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 04, 2018, 12:36:59 PM
As long as I can make a frame to support the sides, fasten to the new floor/ribs it should be fine to set it down on that, instead of transferring all of the weight along the seam of the top and bottom. It will be interesting on how it will fit back on the trailer.
It would just be a bare bones hull and frame at that point, after pulling all the interior and engine and drive, cut out a lot of the weight as well.
As for the roller trailer this is the first one I've been around, both my fathers boat and my smaller one are on bunk trailers. It looks to me that this one is set up okay, but I am worried about it having dimples, pretty hard to tell how it is now. But the boat as been on the trailer for most of its life, be interesting to see!
More imperfections in the hull the slower she goes!
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 08, 2018, 02:19:09 PM
Also pulled the carpet and cut out the section of floor above the tank. I pulled all of the gas out of the tank a couple months ago, 125L worth!
The floor under the tank is completely rotten as well, kind of figured it wouldn't be pretty under there.
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 22, 2018, 01:04:47 PM
Also found out the engine beams have started to rot.
The waters where we boat can get rough rather quickly and I don't want to worry about the hull while trying to navigate!
Post by: fireman24mn on January 22, 2018, 02:17:19 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 24, 2018, 10:45:19 AM
I have been contemplating on how to proceed with this project for the last few days, after finding that there is slight wood rot on the stringers in a few sections (can see circled below). I am wondering if I should pull out the all stringers and fiberglass and do a full new framework. Basically starting from scratch. Which would require supporting the hull, lots of wood, fiberglass, and all new foam. Which is probably the proper way..
Or
If I should just replace the 'center' of the boat. Glue on new, stringers to the existing ones, as well as replacing the engine mounts, new keel, new floor etc. The problem would be that in the circled sections of the old stringer there isn't any strength. As well as I don't know what kind of shape the fiberglass or hull is on the other side or under the existing foam. This is more of the easier/faster/cheaper route..
Post by: Plugcheck on January 24, 2018, 06:09:48 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 25, 2018, 03:01:50 PM
Could you cut up the old foam and just pour new foam around it? Any of the foam I've pulled out so far isn't wet at all. Didn't really think of reusing it.
Post by: Plugcheck on January 25, 2018, 04:23:48 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 25, 2018, 04:52:08 PM
I agree, not sure if I would trust the window/door foam to not absorb water or act as structure as well as what's in the hull now.
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 06, 2018, 03:19:00 PM
So once that was out of the way I was able to see what kind of shape the transom was in. Looking at it from the outside and the engine compartment it looked fine, no signs of rot. However once the out drive was off you could see the wood was rotten, so cut off the fiberglass and scraped off all the wood, I couldn't believe how bad it was! Even for a boat that has been kept in a shed its whole life!!
Along with the removal of the transom we pulled out the motor mounts (which were water logged) and center stringers and the foam beside them. Have a lot of grinding to do to now.
Made the decision to leave the outer stringers and foam how they are, and just replace the center framework and put a new floor over top.
I have been doing a lot of reading and researching on hull design and my Dad and I also have put a lot of thought into the new stringer layout, we are planning on laying 2x10's right in the 'nook' of the strake, ALL the way to the front. I have no idea why Glastron put their stringers so far away from that, other than to fit the gas tank, but that would have been the reason why I have cracks in the gelcoat along the strakes, just not enough support in that area of the hull.
The problem with moving the stringers in closer is that finding a gas tank to fit is becoming very difficult. I have been able to find a plastic tank that would fit, but it'll cost me $1100 bucks (Canadian) to get it, which is a little steep.. Might have to design an aluminum tank to fit, or use 2 smaller tanks..
Here's some pictures of progress!!
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 06, 2018, 03:20:38 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 07, 2018, 09:13:17 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 07, 2018, 09:51:45 AM
I'll still be putting a new floor over the whole thing
Post by: Plugcheck on March 07, 2018, 09:55:33 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 08, 2018, 02:44:11 PM
Seem's like most people, and boat builders use plywood for stringers. I understand it could be easier, and probably cheaper to use plywood, because finding dimensional wood that's good quality in that length could be difficult and expensive. But what are the benefits of using laminated plywood for stringers instead of using solid wood? Or what are the downsides to using dimensional lumber?
My plan is to use lumber (for the stringers) for its strength in the vertical plane and being able to get it in one long continuous piece, instead of having joints from the 8' plywood sheets.
Also makes more sense to me to use lumber since with plywood every other layer is running in the wrong direction for strength in this application.
Just looking for some input!
Thanks!
Post by: Plugcheck on March 08, 2018, 03:12:33 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 08, 2018, 03:31:21 PM
Composites is a whole other game, I am very unfamiliar with them and don't really feel comfortable working with them or using them in this rebuild. That and it's hard to get my hands on that stuff where I am! However a fully composite boat would last forever, literally.
Post by: Plugcheck on March 08, 2018, 03:38:10 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 08, 2018, 03:42:48 PM
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Post by: V153 on March 08, 2018, 03:58:41 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 08, 2018, 04:27:36 PM
Post by: V153 on March 08, 2018, 04:35:55 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 09, 2018, 07:33:17 AM
Post by: dorelse on March 09, 2018, 09:45:58 AM
I came awful close this time on the Timi on going composite, but the shipping cost killed the idea. I suppose the UPS or FedEx guy would have trouble wrestling 4x8 sheets of material. Even pre cut for the floor at 48"x50" was considered oversized. I think the shipping quote that route was nearly $100.00. I can use money like that elsewhere.
Yep. And 5 Gal buckets that weigh 30lbs aren't cheap to ship either.
Post by: V153 on March 09, 2018, 06:16:45 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 09, 2018, 09:02:22 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 11, 2018, 09:20:40 AM
Update: had a bit of time yesterday to work on the boat, got the frame and fibreglass out of the bow area, so now it’s grinding time! Yay! Not..
Wifey and dog came along to help too so they got the bow rails and windshield and other accessories off.
The wife likes it better with the bow rails off, and I don’t hate it.. hmm but does that not make it a Glastron anymore? Haha
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180311/42f8e7f21a26536a10224c905c10d254.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180311/a14dede7e44c1ce4cb3cea3fb1031015.jpg)
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Post by: Plugcheck on March 11, 2018, 11:09:07 AM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on March 11, 2018, 11:32:15 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 11, 2018, 11:41:40 AM
I’m just looking forward to getting the shine back on the deck and going out on the water!
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Post by: nes-cv23 on March 11, 2018, 12:10:01 PM
Post by: Jason on March 12, 2018, 09:25:57 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 12, 2018, 11:23:24 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 12, 2018, 11:53:33 AM
Any of the 23 folks considered modifying the rails, say by making them shorter or adding a swing section in similiar fashion to a vehicle roll bar to allow access?
That is kind of a neat idea to add a swing section, could probably use something like a ladder hinge to fold it out of the way.
Another question for you 350 Magnum owners, the 23CSS has a 50 gallon fuel tank, does anyone wish that their tank was bigger, would it suck to be any smaller? Could anyone give me an idea of how long a tank of fuel would last, at cruising speed? I'm not even sure what a good cruising speed is for that boat, 25mph?
Thanks!
Post by: Plugcheck on March 12, 2018, 01:11:11 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on March 12, 2018, 05:38:41 PM
Cruising speed 30mph is right around 3000 rpm fuel will last along time. Never have ran it for a long period of time at that setting, usually slowing down for other boats wakes and no wake zones and beaching for several hrs.
I have never looked into the rpm and speed of just running on the primaries.
But if you run a jet and a bbf the tank could be 100gallons and probably still not enough.
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 12, 2018, 06:29:32 PM
Since I’m changing the layout of the stringers the old tank won’t fit and it is 29 year old plastic.
Just wondering if I should go bigger or stay the same ($$ vs. $$$$) haha
They do always say bigger is better don’t they
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Post by: carlsoncvx18 on March 12, 2018, 06:35:44 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 12, 2018, 10:17:35 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 13, 2018, 06:48:35 AM
Might have to put an aluminum one in it if I can’t find a plastic tank.
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Post by: Plugcheck on March 13, 2018, 07:50:00 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 19, 2018, 10:14:37 AM
Have been doing some grinding the past couple weeks, coming along nicely. Had some nice weather so we could keep the garage door open for fresh air. We have been running the shop vac with a dust bag. It actually works really well and takes away 90% of the dust.
Also supported the hull with some old wood that was laying around. The trailer does a fairly good job but wanted to make sure that the hull doesn't get a big warp to it. Just used some 4x4's along the strakes and supported it off the ground. Sorry for the bad picture!
Its coming along and getting excited to start putting in the new material!
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 07, 2018, 09:37:22 PM
Been grinding as often as I can the last few weeks, it’s coming along nicely. But made the decision to split the deck to make it easier to work on. The seam was loose along the port side, so that needed repair as well.
Removing the cap actually went well!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/77db70b19df2329507237cbfb3212287.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/c7f80270ed90f16daaa7c90bfb4e9608.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/d62867f5c7a96b4090432fa9a0817cfd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/bcca7fcfc9b9bbcd44c81cfe95a69845.jpg)
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Post by: Plugcheck on April 07, 2018, 10:46:17 PM
Post by: V153 on April 08, 2018, 09:34:29 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on April 08, 2018, 09:39:20 PM
Post by: G-Force on April 08, 2018, 09:50:35 PM
Grant
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 09, 2018, 01:01:52 PM
I always try to make the best with the tools I have at hand! I figured with all the wood my dad and I have laying around we could make something up to support the cap. Having the cherry picker made separating the top easy, but it could have been done with just jacking up the trailer and then lowing it out of the way. I also ended up supporting the cap from the existing wooden supports under the dash and across the back, the edge of the cap is very thin and I was afraid of crushing it under its own weight.
Things got a little sketchy at times but nothing went wrong and didn't break anything!
Was able to get the hull off the trailer on Sunday, that was a piece of cake thanks to the roller trailer! Threw some boards under the strakes to keep everything straight and level, and some cross ties to keep the width.
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 25, 2018, 07:30:16 AM
We took off the back rest supports up in the cuddy there, planning on trying to make that cuddy feel as large as possible.
Also found that a section of the hull where the fiberglass was all broken up and dry, hard to tell if it was from a rock/grounding or if it was from the hull flexing. There is some 'patchwork' on the outside as well. I thinned some resin and poured it into that area to try and re-saturate it. I will lay up some glass over top of it too before the outer stringer goes in.
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 10, 2018, 02:24:30 PM
Also put a few layers of glass on the hole and other damaged areas. As well as the first layer of wood for the transom. Making progress bit by bit!
Post by: Jason on May 10, 2018, 02:30:54 PM
Well my gas tank arrived! New from Moeller 50 gal with a 5 gal reserve. Can't seem to see the reserve though so not exactly sure how its separated. As well the back bones for the beast. These are 14' LVL's that are 1-3/4" thick and 7-1/4" tall. They are a little overkill, but they are dead straight and one continuous length.
Also put a few layers of glass on the hole and other damaged areas. As well as the first layer of wood for the transom. Making progress bit by bit!
I bet the "reserve" is just a linger pickup tube. Kind of an extra warning before you REALLY run out of gas. My ATV is the same way.
Post by: V153 on May 10, 2018, 03:29:21 PM
I bet the "reserve" is just a linger pickup tube. Kind of an extra warning before you REALLY run out of gas.Yep. Be my bet.
Post by: Plugcheck on May 10, 2018, 03:52:33 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 11, 2018, 06:42:35 AM
Post by: C512Jim on May 11, 2018, 07:28:42 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 11, 2018, 08:29:36 AM
Jim from Express Composites said to use a 90% / 10% mix of resin / styrene to thin down resin.
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 11, 2018, 08:54:15 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 11, 2018, 10:37:08 AM
He gave percentage's of resin to glass for regular lay up (think 70% /30%) and percentage after vacuum bagging (think 20% / 80%).
Vacuum bagging will remove most of the excess resin, but would be hard to do on large areas.
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 11, 2018, 11:00:57 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 11, 2018, 11:15:56 AM
Post by: C512Jim on May 13, 2018, 04:29:19 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 15, 2018, 01:57:33 PM
Since I got the first layer of transom on I added some Bondo filler to either side to make it all flush. Now I've got the second layer on!
The transom consists of 3/8 ply, then 3/4 ply, then a sheet of 1/2 ply, that plus the hull thickness and some fiberglass on the inside should bring me up to 2 to 2-1/8" thickness.
One more sheet to go on and then can start fitting the stringers and tabbing them in.
Post by: RedOctober89 on August 13, 2018, 02:39:15 PM
Was able to get the stringers cut and the wax coating removed and I'm ready to glass them in.
I have also done a little experiment with a small chunk of the left over LVL (laminated veneer lumber). From research and others opinions online there has been warning about the glue in them not holding up to moisture, so I took a chunk and threw it in a bucket of water and left it for the better part of 2 months.
Well the wood soaked up the water, as most wood/plywood would. But the glue is still firmly holding it all together. I cannot break it apart by hand. So i feel pretty comfortable in the decision with the LVL. It'll be a good strong hull, along with sealing everything up well and keeping it dry I'm sure it'll last a long time.
Few pics on them below.
Post by: RedOctober89 on September 24, 2018, 11:00:57 AM
Got the inner and outer strakes glued down. The outer strakes are new as Glastron didn't have them there before. I have seen this is a weak spot in the design
Also added a piece of hardwood up where the trailer cleat is
Slowly but surly it's coming along!
Post by: fireman24mn on September 24, 2018, 02:19:27 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on September 24, 2018, 02:36:47 PM
I have seen cracks in the hulls where the cuddy floor meets the main floor near the outside of the boat, I have been contemplating adding a center stringer or not.
This picture may show better:
Post by: fireman24mn on September 24, 2018, 04:10:17 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on September 24, 2018, 09:25:59 PM
Post by: Jason on September 24, 2018, 09:44:10 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on September 25, 2018, 10:11:37 AM
So my plan for the cuddy is pretty close to what your pictures are Jason, Only difference is I would have the center section (lowest floor) have a removable carpeted lid, then a cushion on top. So you could remove all the center stuff and put your legs down if you really wanted to.
Before I tore it all apart I wasn't able to sit comfortably in there, but that could be because the cushions are close to 6" thick!
Will have to do some playing around when I get the top back on to see how it will all work and feel.
Post by: Jason on September 25, 2018, 01:34:40 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on October 29, 2018, 07:44:38 AM
Was surprised how much resin I went through to glass in all the stringers and bulk heads.
I tell yea, good and strong now!
I also reinforced the bow cleat as I will be using it to flip the hull.
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 02, 2018, 02:20:20 PM
Now the fun work begins! Get to fix the damage and clean up the bottom. Definitely going to be a lot easier to work on then leaving it on the trailer or working upside down.
Here's a couple picture, and yes of course it was the worst weather to be doing this in, right around freezing and rain!
Post by: Jason on November 02, 2018, 02:38:40 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on November 02, 2018, 03:04:14 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 02, 2018, 09:49:31 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 05, 2018, 09:21:23 AM
I have been planning on painting the bottom, I have had good luck with it before. I believe I used an Interlux product, will have to look back to find what it was.
Don't think I am really up to doing gel coat..
Did a quick visual check for hook and looks like there is around 1/4". Doesn't the hook help the boat get onto plane faster? I will be using the boat for a lot of water skiing, so if I remove it will it effect how quickly it planes? I am more about getting onto plane as fast as possible as top speed numbers.
Maybe best to remove hook and add trim tabs down the road?
Post by: fireman24mn on November 05, 2018, 11:27:38 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 05, 2018, 11:28:42 AM
Hook would affect higher speeds.
Good running 350 shouldn't have any problem pulling skiers / tubers with the right prop.
Post by: Plugcheck on November 05, 2018, 02:46:51 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 06, 2018, 07:06:40 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 13, 2018, 03:27:02 PM
Lots of work to do!!
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 13, 2018, 03:35:02 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 13, 2018, 03:38:19 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 13, 2018, 04:16:16 PM
Nice work repairing her ..
Post by: Plugcheck on November 13, 2018, 06:52:48 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 03, 2018, 01:21:15 PM
Just a couple more hours of block sanding to finish off the bottom.
I ended up sanding out part of the hook in the hull, maybe gain 0.001 of a MPH who knows haha
Also sharpened the strakes and filled the old bilge drain hole, planning on lowering it.
I am using Interlux VC Performance epoxy on the bottom, and planning on rolling and tipping it. Seem to be really good reviews on it.
Post by: Plugcheck on December 03, 2018, 03:38:57 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 03, 2018, 06:07:40 PM
Here in Ontario it’s around 30 degrees, and we heat the shop with wood so I can probably keep it around 60-65 fairly easily which will hopefully help with rolling.
Hopefully it turns out okay as I don’t really trust myself or my spray gun to do a good job at spraying.
Was it easy to thin and spray?
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Post by: 69JETFLITE on December 04, 2018, 08:25:24 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on December 04, 2018, 10:15:46 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 04, 2018, 01:48:37 PM
Is there another name for V170? Interlux calls for 2316N for thinning, the only thinner I have is Interlux 216 leftover from another project.. not sure how compatible all the different thinners are they have?? Also have some 202 as a cleaner.
I will have help with rolling and tipping, the wife will follow along behind me with her steady hand to tip it all. Planning on being a weekend event to get enough coats on between the dry times. So I'm definitely a little nervous about it all going smoothly.
Agreed, paint in general is usually pretty hard on the lungs, I have a couple sets of good respirators , my wife is a nurse so I am well educated on preserving lungs. I always shake my head when I see people sanding, grinding, or painting ect without using a respirator or mask. Pretty cheap insurance if you think about it. Same goes with hearing protection.
thanks for the input!!
Post by: fireman24mn on December 04, 2018, 02:35:55 PM
I am not a pro by far, here is a video of me spraying the final clear coat on my 23 when I redid it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niJR7rVYF5Q (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niJR7rVYF5Q)
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 06, 2018, 07:46:18 AM
I sprayed a cottage this summer with an airless paint sprayer and man if I had the same luck I did with it as with my siphon gun I would spray everything!
I mixed up a very small amount to test it to see what I am working with, it is much thinner than I expected, its almost like water. I'll give spraying it a try this weekend to see how that works. I don't have the correct thinner so it might not work at all. The small area I did with a cheap disposable brush I could see it doesn't self level much at all even for how thin it is.
I'm just looking forward to getting paint on the hull!! I'd like it flipped back over before Christmas!
Post by: Plugcheck on December 06, 2018, 10:50:15 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 06, 2018, 11:01:24 AM
I was only able to get the 2 Gallon kit because I'm in Canada, but can still get the thinners to spray, just takes longer to order because of the time of year.
So to say the least I will most likely have plenty left over. Was thinking about using it on the inside for the floor and area. Going to be covered in carpet/flooring so not a big deal about UV ratings.
Stuff is friggen expensive too!
Post by: Plugcheck on December 06, 2018, 11:08:24 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 06, 2018, 12:18:32 PM
Wow I am surprised it took that much. My idea of having leftover may not work then!
Post by: Plugcheck on December 06, 2018, 01:53:20 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 06, 2018, 03:13:09 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 10, 2018, 02:38:37 PM
I applied 5 coats, and 3 of which I had extra to cover the wear areas and the damaged spots. So it has a good layer of paint on it!
I'm very happy with how it turned out, there are a few spots that show through that I didn't sand out enough, but for the amount of damage that was done its pretty darn good.
Also ended up using 3/4 of the paint, more than expected.
Here are some before and after shots!
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 10, 2018, 02:40:02 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on December 10, 2018, 03:17:26 PM
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Post by: 75starflight on December 10, 2018, 04:48:09 PM
its giving me inspiration for me when I finally get a garage to work in!
Post by: Hyperacme on December 10, 2018, 07:51:48 PM
Post by: dorelse on December 10, 2018, 09:12:07 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on December 11, 2018, 07:50:34 AM
Post by: Jason on December 11, 2018, 09:41:37 AM
That's not a CGOAMN calendar on the wall. :o
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 11, 2018, 09:49:04 AM
That's exactly what I was aiming for. Don't particularly want to flip the hull again!
I did leave the door and window open while I was spraying to help with air circulation.
I believe you are right with a short shelf life, the extra I am hoping to use on the inside, either the floor and sides or in the bilge, just to use it up as long as there is enough for one coat, don't want to throw away the leftover paint!
It'll be around 12 days after the final coat when I have time to flip it back over
Post by: Plugcheck on December 11, 2018, 10:18:27 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 11, 2018, 01:21:42 PM
Good job on spraying it looks pretty good.
Post by: RedOctober89 on December 11, 2018, 01:43:19 PM
I'm sure this will go fast enough, I'm not trying for any records.
Is it similar to the dimples on a golf ball then? That would be quite the ugly hull if they were designed that way
Post by: fireman24mn on December 12, 2018, 11:49:51 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on December 12, 2018, 01:09:04 PM
Lightly sanding with some #800 grit paper would be fastest.
Your better off leaving it smooth and waxed, easier to keep clean.
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 02, 2019, 09:25:19 AM
I also added a keel guard while it was on its back, I've installed them while the boats on the trailer and I tell ya, it is MUCH nicer installing one when the boat is upside down haha
Also built a dolly frame for it to make moving it around easier.
here's a couple pics!
Post by: Plugcheck on January 02, 2019, 10:48:21 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on January 02, 2019, 01:03:39 PM
But your making great progress !
Post by: RedOctober89 on January 03, 2019, 07:42:20 AM
I am hoping to have it in the water this year. We'll see how that goes
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 06, 2019, 02:09:04 PM
I installed the depth finder transducer in the floor at the bow of the boat, under the cuddy floor. This transducer is for the in dash finder, my GPS also has a depth readout that will be mounted on the transom, so I thought it could be pretty handy having one up at the bow too, just to keep an eye on depth in shallow waters!!
Hopefully it never fails because its now foamed in and under the floor. LOL
Also made the front seat supports, I ended up reusing the pieces of hardwood they used from the factory, added support under them and glued and screwed in place. They are rock solid.
As you can also see I am using aluminum angle to run across from the outside stringers. My main stringers are short because of the LVL's so the aluminum works perfect to keep the same level without adding extra wood and weight. Lots of support above the tank and for the entire floor. The pink foam panels are just to keep the expanding foam away from the center tank area.
Also put expanding foam down the center of the hull, about 2-3" thick and sanded it flat, then put a layer of glass on top of it to create the lowest floor section. This is for the tank to sit on, and the lowest floor in the cuddy for your feet.
Picked up a sheet of 3/8 Nida Core honeycomb to test out in the cuddy, The stuff is really cool, easy to cut and fit, really light etc, it does take a lot of resin though. I put a layer of mat on the underside and glued down in the cuddy at the same time I put foam in. Will be putting 1708 on top to tie it all together to the hull.
Slow by surely its coming!!
Post by: fireman24mn on February 10, 2019, 09:15:08 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 11, 2019, 03:09:59 PM
If it doesn’t work then oh well, I’ll swap the gauge out for something else.
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Post by: Plugcheck on February 11, 2019, 03:34:43 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 11, 2019, 03:39:31 PM
I’ll let you guys know if it works or not!!
Yes, it is a big project, bigger than what I anticipated when I started. But isn’t that how most projects go?
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Post by: fireman24mn on February 12, 2019, 11:22:10 AM
Not sure knowing the depth while on plane would be of much use, everything I've ever hit happened so fast it wouldn't have helped. Hopefully the front transducer will work when you are coming into the shore. Maybe have your crew move forward? Now maybe someone will develop a collision avoidance system that has the ability to look forward and to the side like a radar to look for danger? The rear is handy IMHO to keep the drive out of the sand. Looks like your making great progress, that really is a big job to tackle.
This is available from almost any manufacture already. They have both forward and side scanning on them. Most of them you have to have the transducer mounted thru the hull or on the transom so it is physically in the water. Try a google search it is amazing what is out there. A lot of new boats are now joy stick operated. Even the I/O's
Also something to think about. This is right from the Garmin web site.
Potential damage to a transducer when running out of the water
It is not recommended to run a FishFinder and transducer on a boat that is not in the water as you will not get any readings from the transducer.
A normal 500w or less transducer should not have any issues when running out of the water. A higher powered transducer, 1kw or larger, may have the potential of having issues as they normally use water to help cool them down when operating for long periods of time. Without the water, the transducer could burn out and have issues if left running for an extended period of time out of the water.
Last on my 43 ft boat I have a transducer mounted in about the middle of the boat about 15-20 ft in front of the props, at just above idle speed it was still not enough time to react when it suddenly read 2.5ft. The Ins claim was $15,000. All I am saying is if you are using it for avoidance go very slow. You also have to keep in mind how deep the transducer is set below water line at idle and depending on load in the front of the boat to give actual depth. Most systems you can set it to what ever depth you are at so it read accurately.
You're making good progress the 23's have a lot of wood though.
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 12, 2019, 11:50:41 AM
Maybe I'll run a secondary switch for that depth finder so it isn't running all the time. That transducer was originally in the bilge.
Progress is good! Yes there is a lot of material in this big of a boat! A lot of fiberglass and resin, that's whats getting me.
Thinking 12-14 gallons by the end of it. Already 7 gallons in. That's a lot of weight on its own. Do you remember how much you used on your 23?
Post by: fireman24mn on February 12, 2019, 01:07:52 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 12, 2019, 01:11:10 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on February 12, 2019, 03:47:31 PM
Wasn't some of the resin used for deck repair ?
"Oh WOW !" is right !
Just be happy ya didn't take on a CV27 … :o
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 12, 2019, 04:15:20 PM
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Post by: fireman24mn on February 13, 2019, 09:40:02 AM
Shawn ..
Wasn't some of the resin used for deck repair ?
"Oh WOW !" is right !
Just be happy ya didn't take on a CV27 … :o
Mine needed a lot of work. The only original wood in the entire boat is the 2 shelves in the cuddy and the board under the swim platform. Otherwise everything was replaced.
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 19, 2019, 07:24:13 AM
Was able to make time for the boat as well. Laid a layer of 1708 in the cuddy over the honeycomb, as well as adding some more support to the stingers and engine compartment. I should also be up to thickness now on the transom and I believe plenty strong everywhere else.
Also reused the old foam that was under the floor, I cut them out in blocks so I was able to reuse them with very little spaces to fill with new foam. Just need some more foam to top up the compartments.
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 04, 2019, 11:53:07 AM
I washed out the inside of the tank as well, and sure glad I did because a lot of plastic shavings came out of it. Would have made a mess of the fuel filters.
Post by: Plugcheck on March 04, 2019, 01:07:42 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 04, 2019, 01:20:42 PM
The weather here the last couple of weeks has been nuts, super cold, then warm, then lots of snow and high winds. All over the place!
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 26, 2019, 07:50:34 AM
I laminated the top and bottom of each sheet with 1708 and some csm. Cleaned up the edges and I'm ready now to glue it down and put a final layer on top. Exciting!!
I'll try to remember to weigh it this weekend to see the difference to plywood.
Post by: Diamond Chad on March 27, 2019, 11:15:14 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 01, 2019, 03:19:57 PM
I still have another layer of cloth to go on top, but would be the same if I used plywood.
So I'm saving around 35-40 lbs by using the Nida Core because I would have used 5/8 ply. But this stuff wont rot and was really nice to work with! Space age technology I've heard some people say ;)
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 15, 2019, 01:24:05 PM
Also got the floor tabbed in and a second layer of glass on.
Post by: RedOctober89 on June 04, 2019, 08:06:26 AM
Have been able to fasten the top back on, silicone and fiber glassed the inside. Gonna hate myself if I ever have to split the hull again! haha
I also fit the cuddy door and divider.
Post by: Plugcheck on June 04, 2019, 09:16:50 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on June 04, 2019, 11:01:29 AM
I am hoping to have it mostly done by August, enough anyways to go out in it. Can always do finishing touches over the winter!
But I'm not going to rush it if it doesn't make it. Still want it done right!
Post by: RedOctober89 on July 09, 2019, 05:32:11 PM
Don’t mind the goofy dog
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190709/466942875ba2752ef2810fd871c71178.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190709/37aa02d08ce504cac4fd26df058d6f15.jpg)
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Post by: Plugcheck on July 09, 2019, 05:49:55 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on July 09, 2019, 06:21:10 PM
Not 100% sure yet. Something to bolt through the sides of the stringers so I can clamp them nice and tight.
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Post by: Jason on July 10, 2019, 06:45:06 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on July 11, 2019, 08:11:12 AM
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Post by: Hyperacme on July 11, 2019, 09:23:41 AM
Post by: Jason on July 11, 2019, 10:04:27 AM
Post by: RedOctober89 on July 18, 2019, 06:17:10 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190718/736064a8613559fa7f2f0a4aff323e4d.jpg)
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Post by: thewillets on July 23, 2019, 05:18:43 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on July 23, 2019, 07:56:55 PM
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Post by: RedOctober89 on October 28, 2019, 01:13:42 PM
This weekend had some time to get at er and was able to get the boat back onto the trailer without any issues and got the motor reinstalled.
I made up some custom welded motor mounts over the summer that bolt together and clamp onto the main stringers. Then the original engine mounts bolt to it. Far cry from how Glastron did it originally, only having lag bolts into a plywood box.
The install went well without much issue. Having the use of an overhead crane was a real life saver.. Hardest part was getting the exhaust boots on properly. Having the switchable exhaust makes it so tight that the boots have to go on at the same time the motor is lowered into place.
Here are some pictures!
Post by: 75starflight on October 29, 2019, 08:12:29 AM
I like your motor mount design.
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 12, 2019, 07:41:19 AM
I like designing things that work well and will last over time.
I have plans to be pulling a lot of skiers and tubes ect with the boat if it ever gets done, so I reinforced the ski pylon / eye to suit.
Also kind of cool little thing I did was a 3D printed drain plug for the transom, I didn't come across any that I thought would seal well on both sides of the transom, stopping water from getting into the transom and soaking upwards. Kicking myself now for not doing the transom in composite :(
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on November 12, 2019, 08:58:10 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 12, 2019, 09:08:34 AM
It's as thin as water and soaks into wood.
With the transom wedge, it wouldn't have sealed with caulk or silicone with the oval slots in plate.
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 12, 2019, 09:46:37 AM
I think the tow hook should be turned 180. The hook part should be facing forward.It was originally installed that way. But didn't make sense to me. Are you suppose to hook the rope to just that center peg?
The way I intend to use it is to loop the rope around the whole thing and then pull the rope loop inside and hook over the center peg. hard to explain..
What do you mean by transom wedge?
That sounds better than what I did, I painted the edges in gelcoat, and made sure to caulk everything well. Hope it lasts
Post by: Jason on November 12, 2019, 12:06:23 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 12, 2019, 02:20:19 PM
Plate to give space for splash well to drain.
There was no way to seal motor mount holes with plate.
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 12, 2019, 02:53:00 PM
for the ski pylon, I'm not sure how it was designed to be used but if it is designed for the rope to just be hooked around the center pin that doesn't seem very strong and the rope could come off if it went slack.. If you wrap it around and lock it in with the center pin it gives you a lot more strength and security, that's just how I see it. But I can be wrong.
Post by: Hyperacme on November 12, 2019, 03:23:07 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on November 12, 2019, 08:03:02 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on November 13, 2019, 07:05:47 AM
From Mastercraft boats
Gregg, that's what I tried to draw! LOL
Mike, I like that way it looks secure!
If that's how Mastercraft has it then I wonder how Glastron intended its use if theirs was facing the front
Post by: Hyperacme on November 13, 2019, 11:01:01 AM
The ski tow is listed as a option on some G/C's, except the Ski Machine, which came with ski tow.
So ski tow bar might have been installed by dealer who put it on in that way … Maybe wrong ?
First two picture are from 1980 Glastron / Carlson Parts catalog in the " Optional Equipment " section.
Pictures of ski machine look like it's in the Mastercraft style / direction ..
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 14, 2020, 12:48:43 PM
Going to be working on the sun pads and getting the seats and sides back in next!
Post by: Plugcheck on February 14, 2020, 02:12:24 PM
Post by: Jason on February 17, 2020, 12:19:24 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on February 19, 2020, 01:33:41 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 31, 2020, 10:07:59 AM
I had to replace the plywood in the sun pads as there was no way I was going to get screws for the hinge into the old one to hold it down.
Good ol Glastron did it again with their sloppy workmanship. The sun pads are not actually square, the front that rests on the bench is actually 1" wider on either side to account for the angle they sit on. So that means the fabric was also cut and sewn to fit that. Well whomever upholsters these pads put them on backwards. So the narrow side was on the front.
I also put new foam under it and used this awesome product Aqua-Tek to clean and rejuvenate the fabric, put it on the CORRECT way and they turned out awesome. Very happy with them!
Also made some boards and covered them in vinyl for trim around the back. It was originally all carpeted plywood right to the floor, really boxing everything in. Keeping the weight down this way and giving more storage space.
More to come soon! Pressure is on now to get it done for spring!!
I hope everyone is keeping well and staying isolated working on their projects!
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on March 31, 2020, 10:20:10 AM
That’s interesting my gas struts attach to the side boards next to the engine.
Did you change the location if so how do they work there?
When I redid the sun pad I made it in one piece.
Post by: RedOctober89 on March 31, 2020, 10:58:30 AM
Yes originally mine did too. I don't think I am putting side boards next to the engine, and I didn't like how you had to disconnect them to access the engine.
They work well how I have them, almost opened to 90 deg, and they do apply pressure to keep them closed when down. I still think I will put a latch on them though just in case!!
I like the one piece idea, I might have to change the whole thing again though if I ever get a blower on this thing! haha
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on March 31, 2020, 12:26:16 PM
I have one on each side of my 18 that hinge the same way never have a problem. Do 80mph.
That is down the interstate that is.
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 23, 2020, 07:26:44 AM
Recently got a final coat of gel on the floor, I built some cedar floor inserts around the engine, probably going to do something similar to protect the sides of the engine as well.
Got the toilet cleaned and reinstalled. Found new rubber insert trim for the windshield so it shouldn't let water in like it used to, got it tinted and reinstalled. I love how it looks now.
Also have been working on some electronics, I made a 'transom saver' with an old piece of 1/2" plastic I had for the speedo and depth finder. Kind of hard to see but the depth finder box is right above the speaker in the second last picture. It is a wifi unit so I can use either my phone or tablet to see the bottom. Planning on doing a tablet dash mount in the future for this and maps.
Cut the hole for the sub.... that was fun... also installed some speakers. Doing 6 speakers and a sub total. Will post more on that later.
Hope everyone is keeping well and isolated!
Post by: RedOctober89 on April 29, 2020, 07:39:40 AM
I have a tray for a second battery up front to run the amp, also wired into my selector switch so it won't drain the starting battery. Installed an OLD amp I had from my high school days. It runs the sub and the two 6x9's in the bench.
Also reinstalled the mirror in the front bulk head, I put a gas strut on it so it doesn't smack you in the head when trying to reach in there.
My wife has a Cricut (stencil cutter) and she cut the Carlson logo out of some old window tint and put it on the mirror.
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 26, 2020, 12:55:16 PM
I must not have tightened one of the power steering hose clamps tight enough, after doing some passes at WOT I had a bunch of power steering fluid all over the bilge :(
Also the voltmeter was only showing 13 volts, so may have to look into that, I was expecting closer to 14, but maybe not the case for a 1989 alternator??
One other thing, maybe someone could help me with, after cruising around for half an hour or so the engine momentary lost power, or surged. I visually checked everything and all seemed ok, so we started out again. It happened 4-5 more times over the next half hour, no consistency of when it would happen. Seems to last longer (1-2 seconds) at lower RPMs and very minimal at high RPMs.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I attached a video (it's really short because of file size) where you can hear it. This was probably the shortest surge that I actually got on camera.
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 26, 2020, 12:56:24 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on May 26, 2020, 02:42:20 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 26, 2020, 03:16:41 PM
Quadrajet 4 barrel, which I cleaned and put a rebuilt kit into. New brass float as well.
Has new plugs, Cleaned the contacts on the cap and rotor
New fuel pump, and of course lines/ filters / water separator.
It did it at WOT, and also around 2800 rpm - I'm not sure if its into secondaries at that point..
To me it sounded more like fuel rather than spark as it didn't misfire. But I'm no expert. I will check the coil.
You think maybe the choke being pulled closed for a moment? I will have to check that.
Thanks!
Post by: Plugcheck on May 26, 2020, 06:07:51 PM
Post by: Jason on May 26, 2020, 07:46:28 PM
The cut out is strange but definitely fuel or spark. Do you know what ignition system it is? It seems like such a quick cutout that it would be ignition related. Maybe the shift interruptor is off adjustment or loose? Or something in the ignition switch or control box?? I guess I’d go through all wiring and look for any loose connections. I’m sure it’s something stupid.
As far as the 13V, when you figure that one out let me know! My cv23 has always run 13v. I had my alternator tested and was good. Even tried a different one with no luck. Replaced battery. Verified gauge. Cleaned all wire connections. Beats me but I’ve never had an issue running at 13v.
Post by: Plugcheck on May 26, 2020, 10:43:52 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on May 27, 2020, 07:01:36 AM
Well good to hear yours is the same Jason. I'll run a few tests but if I come up short I'll just leave it.
Post by: RedOctober89 on June 02, 2020, 07:52:22 AM
We had some perfect weather for buffing this weekend, so I spent my Sunday working some magic. I had gotten a quote from a local company that does amazing work on buffing and ceramic coating the boat. He quoted at $125 / foot = $3000. So I said hard pass and decided to buy some good buffing and wax products (and beer) and do it myself. I AM SO HAPPY WITH HOW THIS HAS TURNED OUT! I'm about 8 hours in now, and almost half done. It is way more rewarding doing it yourself too.
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on June 02, 2020, 08:10:34 AM
Post by: Jason on June 02, 2020, 10:28:09 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on August 26, 2020, 09:49:44 AM
For the bogging issue I was having I switched to my "reserve" pickup at the back of the tank and I haven't had the problem again. I am guessing the gas was sloshing around in the tank and causing it to suck air.
Also started to have a temp issue, wasn't going above 115 deg, so I replaced the thermostat and fixed that problem.
I finished buffing as well, looks fantastic and it sure seems to turn heads and get lots of complements out on the water. Thank you to those who have already ;D
Remember when I installed the depth finder at the front of the hull? Well it didn't work. I don't know if the fiberglass was too thick at the center or if it was a bad depth finder (original) or what. But it wasn't reading correctly at any speed or stopped. (I knew it wouldn't work on plane) So I ended up installing one from another boat in the bilge that works fine. Gauge doesn't match but at least I can see depth clearly! That's a must where we go boating.
I took it up on our week long vacation to Georgian Bay, I don't trust leaving it tied up to the dock when we aren't there, we can get some pretty bad storm waves where the family cottage is. Had some really nice weather, top speed was 54 8)
I haven't gotten any pictures of the flooring, I will try and get some soon!
Post by: Hyperacme on August 26, 2020, 09:53:56 AM
Such a cool boat !
Post by: RedOctober89 on August 26, 2020, 10:01:12 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on August 26, 2020, 11:15:02 AM
Post by: Jason on August 26, 2020, 09:22:15 PM
Post by: RedOctober89 on August 27, 2020, 08:07:28 AM
Post by: ford-bldr on August 28, 2020, 03:36:38 AM
Such a nice job on a beautiful boat.
When that boat came out it floored me. So quintessentially Carlson.
Great write-up. 8)