Author Topic: Think the motor will fall off ??? (Read 6935 times)

nacapster · « **on:** July 12, 2019, 04:04:12 PM »

Just picked up a 1985 CVX 16. The floor is solid and the boat's finish & interior seem pretty good for a 35 year old boat. But...the transom has some cracks in the corners. The starboard side isn't too bad but the port side is a little worse. The previous owner said it's been like that for years and the cracks haven't gotten any worse. I just worry about water getting in and rotting the wood if it's not already. Should I seal it up with some silicone or would I be making things worse by locking / trapping in any moisture that's already in there?

I used to have a 1985 SSV 176 from 95-08 and the transom also developed a crack. I brought it to the dealer and they stress tested it and said it was solid and to just use the darn thing. And I did just that for several years without issue. Hopefully this new one works out the same way. I'd like to fix it but financially it just doesn't make sense to pay someone else to do it and IDK if I'm up for tackling a job like that myself. And who's to say how long the 1984 Johnson will hold out. For $2,500 I think I'm just going to use it as is and hope for the best...

nacapster · « **Reply #1 on:** July 12, 2019, 04:04:56 PM »

Here's the starboard side.

nacapster · « **Reply #2 on:** July 12, 2019, 04:10:02 PM »

Here's a better pic of the whole boat.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #3 on:** July 12, 2019, 05:34:50 PM »

Some have used a drill and took "Core Samples". Inspect wood shaving that come from hole.

Good spots to check would be around and under any thru transom holes, like motor mount holes and speedo pick up.
Poke around under splash well for soft spot in transom wood.

Some put aluminum plates between motor and transom. Might get you a few more years of use.
I had a crack like that on top of my transom, and wood was fine under it, my rot was on bottom and sides of transom. No were near the crack. When hull is attached / glassed to hull and when motor squeezes splash well and transom together, it could cause stress at those points and form a crack.

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 12, 2019, 05:52:28 PM »

I’ve had a couple with cracks like that and I’m sure its time for a new transom... but it could last for a long time yet just be careful and don’t get airborne with it. I like to use mine until fall then bite the bullet and replace the transom over winter. It’s really not that hard just a labor of love....

Hyperacme · « **Reply #5 on:** July 12, 2019, 05:58:03 PM »

Bryan is probably right ...

nacapster · « **Reply #6 on:** July 14, 2019, 12:33:36 AM »

Well, the motor didn’t fall off but the throttle broke about 5 minutes in. Right now the boat only has one speed 1800 / 1900 rpm and about 18 / 19 mph. Hopefully it’s just a cable...Had to use the choke to slow it down in the no wake zones.

nacapster · « **Reply #7 on:** July 14, 2019, 07:38:40 PM »

Yep, it was the throttle cable. Today I pulled both cables (throttle & shift cables) And I was able to pull both ends of the throttle cable out and see where it snapped. I think it’s original as it just says Outboard Marine Corporation. The shift cable is a 11’ Teleflex from 94 but it was duct taped up where it enters the motor. Plus the shifting was tricky. It was hard to find neutral, most times it just went right into reverse and the action was stiff. So yeah I’m gonna replace both cables.

Are the two cables the same? Can I just buy two of the same cable? Also what length cables are others using on the CVX-16? I was thinking 12’. I looked on BRP’s site but couldn’t find any part #s for the cables. Would aftermarket cables be just fine or should I try to get OEM cables from a dealer? I found these on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/SeaStar-CC20517-Evinrude-Johnson-Control/dp/B000N9XW58/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cc205xx&qid=1563151080&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Hyperacme · « **Reply #8 on:** July 14, 2019, 08:04:52 PM »

Sent you a PM.

nacapster · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2019, 10:23:10 AM »

I ended up going with the Teleflex Xtreme cables, 12 foot. My FIL is a tech at a boat dealer up north and he said those are the cables they use. Ordered them on Amazon for $40 a piece. I also pushed down on the motor with my body weight (240 lbs) last night and while the whole boat moved (not hooked up to anything) I didn't see any flex in the transom so I think it will be good to go for a while yet. Knock on wood, excuse the pun...LOL

Hyperacme · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2019, 02:42:31 PM »

If you really like the CVX, you can cut out and grind old wood / glass over the winter and do glass work in the spring.
I can link you to some rebuilt threads, if you'd like to see what's involved.

nacapster · « **Reply #11 on:** July 16, 2019, 09:10:59 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on July 16, 2019, 02:42:31 PM

If you really like the CVX, you can cut out and grind old wood / glass over the winter and do glass work in the spring.
I can link you to some rebuilt threads, if you'd like to see what's involved.

Sure, that would be great.

Villager19 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 16, 2019, 10:35:34 PM »

Nice looking boat, glad the motor did not fall off lol

Hyperacme · « **Reply #13 on:** July 17, 2019, 12:02:46 AM »

1985 CVX16 rebuild
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6642&sid=ccd8eb623e438e7355a9cb4e22593b68

C500 Spy Pics
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7551.0

Ron's CVX16 project
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6488.0

nacapster · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2019, 04:29:24 PM »

Well, Amazon was a mistake... Got the cables today and one of them is the right cable but the other one is totally wrong. Not only does it NOT have the OEM specific ends but it's 4' too short!!! It's a 8 foot universal cable vs the 12' OMC cable I ordered. I don't get it. I ordered a qty of 2 of the same item and they managed to screw it up. They put a new item sticker on the box but forgot to put the right cable in it. Guess I'll be making a run up to Hannay's...

Hyperacme · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2019, 04:36:07 PM »

AND .. bring the old one with to match up !

nacapster · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2019, 04:46:35 PM »

Check out their handy work...

nacapster · « **Reply #17 on:** July 20, 2019, 08:32:08 PM »

Got the new cables installed today. Took awhile to get the throttle cable adjusted right but it’s working much better / smoother now. Course I noticed water leaking in the engine compartment. Turned out to just be the hose from the head to where the water dumps out of the motor. It was cracked right by the barbed fitting on the head. I also noticed somebody put electrical tape on one of the plug wires on both ends...why not just replace the darn wire...

nacapster · « **Reply #18 on:** July 21, 2019, 03:20:08 PM »

Well the throttle is working much better and the boat is shifting much smoother. I can actually find neutral! But now the motor is surging all on its own. It was fine at first and then it started acting up and got progressively worse the longer we were out. I have no way of contacting the previous owner but I’m starting to wonder if the boat hasn’t sat for a few years without use. I’m thinking there’s a bunch of crud in the gas tank and it’s getting sucked into the motor. There’s probably junk floating around the bowls occasionally blocking the jets. Guess I’ll siphon out as much as I can and rebuild the carbs...

Hyperacme · « **Reply #19 on:** July 21, 2019, 04:47:09 PM »

There are videos and info online on how to clean old fuel tanks.

Replace the fuel line / squeeze bulb with a BRP / Evinrude one with new fittings for motor connection.
If fuel lines in motor look old and / or like they've never been changed .. replace them alone with inline fuel filter if you have one.
If you wipe down fuel lines of any liquids, then run motor for a hour or two on lake, then check for liquids on outside of line again. Good sign that fuel line have broke down and are leaking.

Rebuild fuel pump .. is it a VRO fuel pump ? Might be cheaper to just get a older style pump if rebuild kit is crazy priced. You have a manual, should be info on rebuilding it.
Carbs will be full of junk if not drained.

I use Star tron in my tank. Keeps fuel good for over a year. I pump old fuel out of boat tank for snow blower and lawn mower.
Star Tron ..
http://www.starbrite.com/item/star-tron-gasoline-additive
End of season I run carb's out of gas and open float bowl drains. It will evaporate over time and leave a powder or gummy mess if your using pre mix.

I also tip motor up and pull plugs, rotate one cylinder to top dead center and pour Sea Foam into cylinder ( I use Deep Creep which is Sea Foam in a squirt can) .. Let sit a hour or two, rotate to next cylinder and do the same. Maybe do this three or four times over the course of a few day. When you rotate from one cylinder to the next it will drain down exhaust and soften carbon and gunk in exhaust tube. After a few days of this start motor up. Make sure your in a open area, because you will get huge clouds of white smoke. There will also be black goop coming out your exhaust. I did this on my motor three times when I got it.
Deep Creep ..
https://seafoamsales.com/product/deep-creep-penetrating-oil/

With two cycle motors you have to be careful with fuel and fuel systems. Leaning it out with gummed up carbs isn't good ..