Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: scott r bishop on August 16, 2012, 11:09:34 PM
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A million thank-you's to Shawn (and Brian A.) for having me over tonight, and to Gregg for supplying the materials. We did 2 coats of 600 wet, 2 coats of 1500 wet, and 3 coats of 3000 wet; then Shawn buffed with two different compounds while Brian, Shawn's daughter and I cleaned the vinyl with a chemical recommended by Jeff. It looks way better than it did when we bought it, not close to perfect, but when we tear all the hardware off and get into it I can see the potential. The before pictures are attached... it was too dark to take the after shots when we got done... so I guess the 'after' shots will have to wait until tomorrow night! Thanks again to everyone in the group for making this possible (and to Brian B., Shawn, Jeff, Brian A., Gregg for the unbelievable help), can't wait to see you all tomorrow!
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Makes a BIG difference when you have "the team" helping out, right!? I'll bet that baby is going to shine like nobody's business now.
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It makes a huge difference. When I bought my 18 it was faded, I didn't do the wet sanding but the results from the 3M products were amazing.
After
(http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/grinder7806/IMG_0641.jpg)
Before
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It makes a huge difference. When I bought my 18 it was faded, I didn't do the wet sanding but the results from the 3M products were amazing.
What 3M product(s) did you use?
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I'll have to let Shawn answer that, it was in the traveling "bucket-o-shine", but he's the one who applied it (thanks again Shawn).
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On mine and Tim's we used 800 then 1500 then 3000 wet sand, followed by 3M Imperial Compound then 3M Finesse-it II then Scotchgard Marine Liquid Wax .
We didn't know about the 3000 until we did Tim's boat, after doing mine with 800, 1200, compounding, FI2 it looked pretty good but Tim's looked WAY better, so I redid mine with the 3000, compounding and FI2, wax and looks pretty good now.
The 3000 is the KEY to a GREAT shine !
3M Marine Professional Gelcoat Finishing System (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw#)
3M's web site ...
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/?WT.mc_id=www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/marine/ (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/?WT.mc_id=www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/marine/)
Before ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/76%20CV16%20blue/DSCN0333.jpg)
After ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/76%20CV16%20blue/DSCN0582.jpg)
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It makes a huge difference. When I bought my 18 it was faded, I didn't do the wet sanding but the results from the 3M products were amazing.
What 3M product(s) did you use?
I used 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound, Finesse-it II and a carnauba wax.
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I am going to be doing this to Phoenix starting next week I hope. I am ordering everything I need today, but there are so many choices with buffing and compounding pads. My question is which ones do you guys use? If you remember.
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Wool for coumpounding, black foam for glaze.
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Brandon
What are you using for a buffer?
You want to use a variable speed on the lowest setting .
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Brandon
What are you using for a buffer?
You want to use a variable speed on the lowest setting .
Thats the plan Jeff. going to see if I can find one at menards tomorrow.
This is what I am looking at
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/sanders/performax-reg-7-sander-polisher/p-2724164-c-10088.htm (http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/sanders/performax-reg-7-sander-polisher/p-2724164-c-10088.htm)
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That should be fine. I'm not sure about that wool. You may have to go to a parts store that mixes paint and get a good wool, a white foam, and a black foam. Be careful to long in one spot and you can burn through the clear. Have fun.
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Did this to my boats. Results are amazing and worth the effort. Napa sells the 3m buffing pads and compounds.
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Napa sells the 3m buffing pads and compounds.
I have seen your work Jason and it looks good.
Unfortunately my Napa is an order only store and charges a lot of freight. Heck, up until a year ago they didn't even come up on the Napa store locator.
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You could always pick that stuff up on your way to Rathbun, Brandon...even though I know you want Phoenix shining bright when you come.
We have a very nice locally owned detail shop near by as well...I could easily pick up, and ship any order over your way. Google 'Prevettes'...I'm sure there's similar shops in Omaha and/or Lincoln.
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There are numerous locations in Omaha to get what you need, Redshaw, JD Casey, even O'Reilleys. Even more online. Could be an excuse to come help with the interior on the Z. Let me know if I can help.
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which step is "Glaze"? is that after compound and before wax?
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Thanks guys for the info.
Ordered everything online ( i like to price shop) most over ebay and some from west marine.
No shipping charges on all of it, and everything less than I can pick up at my oreillys, which is just amazed when I go and order marine parts. Of course the people that work there aren't the brightest.
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" which step is "Glaze"? is that after compound and before wax? "
Yes ... after compounding and before wax ...
Stuff is weird, dries out fast and kind of burns, had to redo, all the way back to wet sanding in two spots on my deck.
Did smaller areas and it seemed to work better ...
I used "3M Finesse-It II ".
Use with a machine polisher to revitalize old, dull, abused, or neglected paints.
Designed for use with a machine polisher.
Reduces moderate paint defects while creating a swirl-free shine.
Leaves the paint looking great.
3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish is a designed to be used with a high speed polisher or high-powered random orbital polisher. It removes moderate to light defects such as swirl-marks, light scratches, light oxidation, and dull paint. 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish does contain some light filling agents so inspect your work to make sure you achieving the results this fine polish is capable of. Follow with your favorite wax or sealant
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/3m-finess-it-machine-polish.html?productid=3m-finess-it-machine-polish&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CNqJ2IXkjMUCFQ6OaQoda4YApg#.VTkVARt0xAg (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/3m-finess-it-machine-polish.html?productid=3m-finess-it-machine-polish&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CNqJ2IXkjMUCFQ6OaQoda4YApg#.VTkVARt0xAg)
There's is a marine version ...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-35928-Finesse-Marine-Glaze/dp/B000XBJ61U (http://www.amazon.com/3M-35928-Finesse-Marine-Glaze/dp/B000XBJ61U)
Brandon ...
Regular gel is pretty easy to do, compound off the layer of oxidation and shine it up ...
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Honestly, I think the sanding and buffing will be the easy part. The pita with be removing all of the snaps off the upper part of the hull.
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I removed all hardware and wet sanded, compounded, FI2ed ... Then 3M came out with 3000 wet sanding disks ... so removed every thing again and redid from 3000 up ...
Luckily no snaps ...
But feel your pain !
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OK here goes. I have never had a boat I could just "clean up", but for new Gel-Coat I wet sand with 1200, then use Meguiar's Solo. once with a wool pad, and once with a black foam, then I have a white pad for my DA and use Wizards Shine master. you would not believe what the wizard does, like glass.
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Jerry, What would you recommend to bring out the best in a 30 year old gelcoat, that is in good shape? Well cared for, always covered or indoors, no damage. So the Wizards is the "Glaze" step? Then do you wax over that? I appreciate the tips.
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Just what I use. That Solo is great stuff, and you can wax after the wizard to make it last
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Fwiw you can bring back the shine in alotta ways. Key is to get, and keep, a pile of wax on it afterward. Imho
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Jerry, What would you recommend to bring out the best in a 30 year old gelcoat, that is in good shape? Well cared for, always covered or indoors, no damage. So the Wizards is the "Glaze" step? Then do you wax over that? I appreciate the tips.
I'm not Jerry, but my recommendation would be to sand with 800-1000 grit, then 1500-2000 grit and a final sand with 3,000. I was in auto body industry for 15 years and when i first started the finest grit was about 1200. Towards the end of the 15 years there was 3,000 grit. There is a night and day difference between the 2 and the amount of actual buffing you have to do to get the shine back. If you finish sand with 3,000 you can buff it back by hand if you had to( good for nooks and crevasses where the buffer cant get. There are a million different compounds you can use. everyone has there favorite company. 3M makes most of it and owns most of the companies.
I always used the 3m products. I typically did not use there heavy duty compound because it was to aggressive and was more abrasive then the 3000 grit paper. Use the purple bottles its the better stuff they are even labeled 1,2,3 http://bit.ly/1yYa3uc (http://bit.ly/1yYa3uc) I would not use this http://bit.ly/1EjrHcf (http://bit.ly/1EjrHcf) unless i was not going to sand at all and just try and buff, even then I'm not a fan of it because it is so course.
Start with #1 and a wool pad doing an area aprox 2ft x2ft. You want to do smaller areas to keep the compound from drying out. Always be careful of edges. With regular paint on a hood you can remove all the paint down to metal in a second if you catch the edge. I've done it! Some people will use a softer wool pad for compound #2 or a foam I think it's more of a preference. I use wool for #2 as well. Then #3 and a foam pad. On dark colors like black it is hard to not get swirl marks and you may have to hand glaze it after glazing with the foam pad.
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Shawn, did you ever try solo? it really works. I have been a big Meguiar's fan since my show car days.
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Shawn, did you ever try solo? it really works. I have been a big Meguiar's fan since my show car days.
Not sure if I have or not. I know I have tried many different brands. I like some but they were harder to find so i ended up mostly using 3m because its everywhere.
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3M makes a one step compound/polish. My advice is to never remove anymore finish than you have to, to get the results you want. Especially when your talking about the original metalflake gel on these old Glastron/Carlsons. I'd try what Jerry suggested first or something similar, because I think you'll be plenty happy with the results. If not you can always wet sand.
The flake on my CVX16 shined as nice as any other boat I've come across and that was done without wet sanding. Look how bad my 18 was when I got it. I cleaned that up by compounding.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/79cvx18comparo-1.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/blinddate/media/79cvx18comparo-1.jpg.html)
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when you go through the clear-coat you get silver flake. Iknow.
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CVX Fever, do you have more pictures of your Cvx 16? My 80 is exactly the same color but different interior. I have dark moisture spots where the vinyl bumpers made contact. Tried wet sanding and all kinds of polishing compound. No luck yet.
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when you go through the clear-coat you get silver flake. Iknow.
I have that same problem on my CVZ project Jerry. That is why she is going to get a re-gel hopefully over the winter.
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When I needed a new steel wheel for the old Shorlander trailer under my CVX18 I ended up buying 2 new aluminum rims from an outfit in California. Less than $90 a piece, free shipping, no sales tax. Then I swapped them out on my new trailer when I got that a year later. That trailer had a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern so I'm sure yours does too.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/cvx18atmeet.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/blinddate/media/cvx18atmeet.jpg.html)
I'm ordering 4 new rims from the same place for the tandem under my SeaRay here in a week or two. I would check them out as another option before you spend money on used rims.
http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com)
Saw the posted picture, I have all metal flake on the deck. That blue CVX 18 (Laser Blue) is one of the sweetest colors. If that's the one you buffed. There's a Cvx 16 that color for $3000 in Grand Island.
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Compounding (medium & fine) and wax will get a good shine.
" My advice is to never remove anymore finish than you have to, to get the results you want "
I agree with Kip, do a small area of the orange and white and see how it comes out ...
I don't think gel will ever shine like flake.
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" My advice is to never remove anymore finish than you have to, to get the results you want "
Yah but knowing when you've removed just enough remains elusive.
Like Gregg said. Start out small and don't get too aggressive.
However if'n the clear's gone? It's gone! Btw I get all different colors of flake when I wet-sand the Baja.
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The stern of Phoenix is my main concern. I can't keep a shine back there. The chalky dullness comes back every time she is on the water.
Also, when I wax the stern I always get a little orange color on what I use to apply the wax. I am hoping the wet sand and finesse-it will seal it up. I plan on pulling the decals off the stern so to get them remade.
Madbohunk, I sent you a pm on your decals.