Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Neutron68 on September 19, 2013, 05:54:26 PM
-
I've been looking around for a how-to (with pictures) on winterizing a Mercruiser 120 engine.
I have the water ear-muffs.
Do I need any special pumps, hoses or collection buckets?
I read that the outdrive oil gets drained and refilled. Do I also drain the engine oil?
I saw a reference in one thread about a Mercruiser winterizing PDF. Thus far, I've not found it.
I found this, but not sure if it is applicable because they mention a V8:
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3616 (http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3616)
Thanks,
Eric
-
That link you mention was written by me, it's a generic set of instructions that applies to most I/O engines but if you want I can give you particular info on the 120, I used to have one in my V174.
-
No pumps needed. Its really easy. I used that same link to do my 120 for the first time 3 years ago, and I had never done one before that.
-
Pic from my old Mercruiser 120:
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/Rattan3973/V174%20Folder/WinterizingEngine-B.jpg) (http://s425.photobucket.com/user/Rattan3973/media/V174%20Folder/WinterizingEngine-B.jpg.html)
-
That link you mention was written by me, it's a generic set of instructions that applies to most I/O engines but if you want I can give you particular info on the 120, I used to have one in my V174.
Sure, that would be great!
My old, mildewy 1978 Mercruiser manual says that you might need to pump the engine oil out of the dip stick tube if you can't get to the drain plug.
That's why I asked about needed pumps.
Eric
-
You don't need to change the engine oil for winterizing unless you suspect you've got water in the oil. I would normally do an oil and filter change in the spring with a tuneup of plugs, cap, rotor, points & condenser. If you are set on changing the oil then a pump is needed to draw it up the dipstick tube. I use an electric one mounted on a 3 gallon bucket but there are manual pumps you can get for little money. You have to run the engine for a while to heat up the oil which makes it easier to take out through the dipstick.
-
My engine oil was changed in July and is still clear.
My lower unit was just serviced, so it has even newer oil in it.
Do you put anti-freeze in after you flood the carb with fogging oil?
My 120 engine looks a little different than yours.
Which hose would I pour anti-freeze into?
(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab264/neutron68/Glastron/engine_zps2c24554c.jpg)
-
My engine oil was changed in July and is still clear.
My lower unit was just serviced, so it has even newer oil in it.
Do you put anti-freeze in after you flood the carb with fogging oil?
My 120 engine looks a little different than yours.
Which hose would I pour anti-freeze into?
You always want to change your gear lube before you store your boat. If a leak developed the last time you had it out, that water will freeze and destroy your outdrive. Don't put it away without changing it out.
Pour it in the big hose on the left until it comes out through the hose on the top right.
-
The boat went from the repair shop right into the cabin's garage.
Still think I need to change the gear oil? ;)
-
The boat went from the repair shop right into the cabin's garage.
Still think I need to change the gear oil? ;)
Never in the water? Then I think you'd be ok.
-
Correct - not in the water after lower end rebuild.
When you drain the water from the engine block, do you just let it drain into the boat well?
Eric
-
Correct - not in the water after lower end rebuild.
When you drain the water from the engine block, do you just let it drain into the boat well?
Eric
Some do I'm sure, but I'm anal...I always drain it into an empty milk jug or something to catch it with...I figure why ruin a perfectly dry bilge?
:D
-
My engine oil was changed in July and is still clear.
My lower unit was just serviced, so it has even newer oil in it.
Do you put anti-freeze in after you flood the carb with fogging oil?
My 120 engine looks a little different than yours.
Which hose would I pour anti-freeze into?
(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab264/neutron68/Glastron/engine_zps2c24554c.jpg)
Run and fog the engine first, then drain it before filling with antifreeze.
As indicated in your pic below fill the block through the large hose until it comes back out the thermostat housing from where you removed the hose. Then remove the other smaller hose from the right side of the thermostat housing and fill that into the exhaust manifold until you hear it trickling out the exhaust behind the boat. Make sure you drain BOTH the engine and manifold completely before pouring in antifreeze.
-
Maybe it's been said already but make sure after you open the drains on the engine to stick a stiff wire up there to clear anything out keeping water from flowing. On my 140, I have to do this every year. No water comes out of mine until I clear the rust out of the way.
-
Correct - not in the water after lower end rebuild.
When you drain the water from the engine block, do you just let it drain into the boat well?
Eric
Some do I'm sure, but I'm anal...I always drain it into an empty milk jug or something to catch it with...I figure why ruin a perfectly dry bilge?
:D
I share your sensibilities. How easy is it to catch the drain water? Do I need a funnel? Or just a 5 gallon bucket?
I think I saw some Mercruiser winterizing videos listed on Youtube.
Maybe one of those will show how fast and sloppy the water drains out?
Eric
-
Maybe it's been said already but make sure after you open the drains on the engine to stick a stiff wire up there to clear anything out keeping water from flowing. On my 140, I have to do this every year. No water comes out of mine until I clear the rust out of the way.
I did my winterize this weekend...not as hard as I thought it would be. I did use a wire to get the exhaust manifold drain hole to flow better. Sand and rust came out when I worked the wire around.
It would be nice to have a petcock in that exhaust manifold drain hole, for ease of use. But, I suppose the valve mechanism inside could get clogged up with sand and rust? I noted I could not stick a wire into the petcock hole and work it around like I did with the exhaust manifold drain hole.
-
Maybe it's been said already but make sure after you open the drains on the engine to stick a stiff wire up there to clear anything out keeping water from flowing. On my 140, I have to do this every year. No water comes out of mine until I clear the rust out of the way.
I did my winterize this weekend...not as hard as I thought it would be. I did use a wire to get the exhaust manifold drain hole to flow better. Sand and rust came out when I worked the wire around.
It would be nice to have a petcock in that exhaust manifold drain hole, for ease of use. But, I suppose the valve mechanism inside could get clogged up with sand and rust? I noted I could not stick a wire into the petcock hole and work it around like I did with the exhaust manifold drain hole.
I use petcocks for my drains on the block and manifold. They work good but yes they clog up easier. But as long as you keep sticking the wire up there you should be fine.
-
I use petcocks for my drains on the block and manifold. They work good but yes they clog up easier. But as long as you keep sticking the wire up there you should be fine.
Doesn't the mechanism inside the petcock, block your cleanout wire? That's what I experienced.
I didn't force the wire in because I didn't want to destroy the petcock.