Author Topic: Green is on the Disabled List for the first Quarter... (Read 13785 times)

Green with Envy · « **on:** May 19, 2011, 09:25:07 PM »

Wow...started cleaning out the engine compartment tonite getting ready to put the engine back in, Someone stole the transom wood and replaced it with wet mulch. All of it. I'm suprised the thing held together all last year!

Just got approval to split the hull and replace the transom.

Get ready for pics and questions about fiberglass repairs!!!

dorelse · « **Reply #1 on:** May 19, 2011, 10:00:30 PM »

Quote from: Green with Envy on May 19, 2011, 09:25:07 PM

Wow...started cleaning out the engine compartment tonite getting ready to put the engine back in, Someone stole the transom wood and replaced it with wet mulch. All of it. I'm suprised the thing held together all last year!

Just got approval to split the hull and replace the transom.

Get ready for pics and questions about fiberglass repairs!!!

Bummer! I guess I didn't realize you pulled the engine over the winter.

OleRed · « **Reply #2 on:** May 19, 2011, 10:04:28 PM »

Dad Deal ... but it happens to the best of em ya know, just another couple days work and it will be better than New.

Jason · « **Reply #3 on:** May 19, 2011, 11:13:28 PM »

I'm looking forward to watching this project. I am sure I will be doing it someday too. Turns out I won't need the alignment tool Alan.....but looks like you will. Gonna have her done by the big meet?

dorelse · « **Reply #4 on:** May 19, 2011, 11:34:17 PM »

Alan - Personally, I loved Seacast and wouldn't put in a wood one again. Just something to consider. It was not cheap though.

Green with Envy · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2011, 08:18:45 AM »

Plan to be seaworthy in 2-3 weeks; new seats, new transom, possibly a sport coupe version with a stylin' bimini.

Called around this morning on marine plywood. $99 for 4x8. Ouch! Of course I need double thick, and I measured and can't get double thick out of a single sheet!!!

What is this other material, Seacast?? I was driving to work and thinking about planking it with composite deck material, overlapping the seams. Any thoughts?

Hull split and all old should be out by Sunday. Pics posted with progress.

Ice tea (or beer) and doritos for anyone who wants to come help (or just watch)!

Wish me luck!

CVX Fever · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2011, 08:41:23 AM »

Quote

Hull split and all old should be out by Sunday.

Do you need to split the hull w/that boat? Most transoms can be repaired on the I/O Glastron/Carlsons w/o going through that step.

Jason · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2011, 09:24:31 AM »

Quote from: Green with Envy on May 20, 2011, 08:18:45 AM

Hull split and all old should be out by Sunday. Pics posted with progress.

I'm in! I'll give you a call Saturday and see where you are at.

OleRed · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2011, 09:30:47 AM »

you don't need to split the hull to put a new transom in that boat, and you don't have to use marine grade ply either, each to his own, but I use cabnit grade plywood from Home Depot that cost $39 a sheet, has 7 ply's, more tensil strength than marine grade, and since it's going to be completely incased in fiberglass it don't have to be treated with a rot resisting agent.

The thing you do have to pay attention to is ... when the transom is bonded to the hull, it is a Must that the transom skin be Flat, Mercruiser gimbal assy only gives us a 1/16 tolerance with a new gasket seal. secondly, if you make you a template, you can build and bond the two pieces of 3/4 plywood on a bench, cut the hole, drill the mounting holes, then place the transom in the boat, the holes already drilled will help you bond it to the boat, and help assure a flat transom. The mounting holes Must be drilled Strait.

dorelse · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2011, 09:38:54 AM »

Ditto on Red's comment. I don't know the transom on that boat specifically, but you should have to split the hull.

Green with Envy · « **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2011, 12:19:31 PM »

I appreciate all the comments and I will investigate further.

From where I sit, the transom wood goes from port to starboard, over 72" and from the drain plug hole to the top, 27". I, for one, do not want to shoehorn the wood into that area with only 11 inches from finished floor to bottom lip of the top clamshell, with the piece all covered in glues and epoxys.

I was thinking of using the furniture grade ply, too, but it was my understanding that it is not rot that is a problem, rather the water based glues used in the plys of the piece.

Keep the comments and advice coming!!

TV27 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2011, 12:26:25 PM »

The glue is no longer an issue on plywood as it was years ago, again to agree with Red, it will be encased in fiberglass either way so it will not matter. As for the drain hole I do have the tool for squeezing in new tube in ( it rolls both edges) if you need it. Tom

Jason · « **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2011, 12:28:43 PM »

A lot of good info here in Red and Barb's project:
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=1923.15

Green with Envy · « **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2011, 03:25:58 PM »

Just read thru olered's transom thread. What a read. Got me excited for the project. Heading over to Express Composites in NE Mpls after work to discuss supplies to 'glass the transom. Digging into it heavy tonite and all day tomorrow.

Jerry · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2011, 08:59:42 PM »

I use CDX exterior grade plywood, and a couple coats of 50-50 acetone and resin. NEVER use Epoxy. If you think you have a strength problem use Vinyl-Ester Resin. Just as good as Epoxy and what fiberglass boats should use if you don't use polyester. Personally the boat was built with polyester, I don't see a reason to change.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #15 on:** May 20, 2011, 10:23:04 PM »

Looks like a gerbils nest! It does look like cramped quarters back there. I've used CDX for floors before as well. Again, when the label it Marine, double or tripple the price! Personally, I do not know the difference.
Just out of curiousity, did you see any obvious places where water got to it?

Green with Envy · « **Reply #16 on:** May 21, 2011, 07:22:54 AM »

Decided on traditional resin/catalyst and 7-ply, furniture grade plywood. I can't say enough about Express Composites in NE Mpls about no BS info and having the materials to set me up. They even stayed a little late on a Friday to get my order together.

Jeff stopped by, rolled up his sleeves and dove in. I was delegated to light and vacuum duty as he cut, pried and pulled. The old transom wood was off and the areas ground clean by 930 pm. A huge thanks to Jeff for taking the time to drive over and motivate me to push forward.

Today, is a little garage cleanup and setup to start cutting wood by 10 am. Hope to be glassed and painted by 10pm tonite!!
Not going to replace the float boxes. Our plan is to a build in some custom cubbys or access points instead. Thanks Red for the great work on Burnin Daylight's project to give me the ideas!!

I'll have plenty of pics and might even take a break or two and post them realtime.

7219 Jocelyn Ave South 55016 for anyone who wants to observe, BS or help

Allan

Green with Envy · « **Reply #17 on:** May 21, 2011, 02:45:52 PM »

230 pm: Cutting templates. Funny how the original wood grain imposed itself into the fiberglass

Jerry · « **Reply #18 on:** May 21, 2011, 03:38:05 PM »

A little trick. If you clamp a piece of hardboard (1/8") on the outside you can go around the outside with a router and have a perfict template (just go 1/8" inside the outline of the template when you cut the plywood.

Green with Envy · « **Reply #19 on:** May 21, 2011, 03:54:16 PM »

Layer one cut and in place. Decided to glass each piece in then move on to the next layer.