Uncovered the Ugly

[Bayflite73]

Makes me want to start my own HGTV show - "Boat Crashers"  haha

That would be a great show! There have been shows like "Pimp my ride" and what not with cars and the History channel does American Renovation. I think you've got a million dollar idea there!

It could expand to other classic resorations too. Old cars, RV's like Airstream's, an old Glastron if they can find one?

I'd DVR it weekly!

[WetRaider]

Josh - I'm right there with you.  Make it like Overhaulin' or something similar.
Find people who are in over their heads with their own restorations, bring in a group of guys with tools and experience, knock it out in a week or less.
I'm all for it.  Who do we contact?  Discovery channel?  History?  TLC? 

[Bayflite73]

Who do we contact?  Discovery channel?  History?  TLC?  

Heck, all three and see who bites! We've got at least one season of guys that fit that bill right here in our club alone!

Here's the link to pitch to Discovery Communications Producer portal:

https://producers.discovery.com/producersPortal/login.jsf

We could film a motor pull or transom fix, edit it all together and fire off a pitch!

[WetRaider]

Nice ... sounds like fun.  We'd have to plan one.  A donor boat would be a good place to start ... and then we could auction the boat off for charity.  At least the one used for the pitch.

On another note - I got a surprise today.  Picked up my oak ply and thought that while I was waiting for other product to arrive, I might as well take up the floor and trace it out.  Backed out all the screws ... wondering how in the world he managed to keep the floor down using only 1' screws.  There was another floor underneath!  SOOOO ... now I have another floor to take out tomorrow. 

[dorelse]

On another note - I got a surprise today.  Picked up my oak ply and thought that while I was waiting for other product to arrive, I might as well take up the floor and trace it out.  Backed out all the screws ... wondering how in the world he managed to keep the floor down using only 1' screws.  There was another floor underneath!  SOOOO ... now I have another floor to take out tomorrow. 

Ugh!

[Bayflite73]

Yikes! Two floors??? I guess they were looking for extra EXTRA solid!

[MarkS]

That's what I call a "I could choke the Previous Owner!" moment Dan!  Just think about how much lighter (and better) your boat is going to be when you're done.   

[WetRaider]

You know ... I get really self-conscious about posting things that say "the PO this" and "the PO that." 
It's my boat.  I haven't had it a year yet.  But damn if I'm not motivated to make sure that when I hit the water this summer & something goes wrong - it will be MY fault, not somebody else's.

[wiliermdb]

5/8 or 3/4 is what is used mostly around here. My cvx had 1/2 in it so that's what I went with at first. Problem is with only a center stringer you could see the flex in the 1/2 when standing between the stringer and the edge of the floor. I used 5/8 marine that I got a deal on for about $20 more than oak per sheet. I weighed both final pieces and it was less than 3 lbs difference.

Some repair shops around here use PT ply. I can hear Jerry now, NO, NO NO. My neighbor with the Eliminator with the twin 300's that I posted here had his done and they used  tongue and groove PT 3/4. Gave him a 5 year full replacement warranty but stated they've been using the PT for 20 years and have yet had a floor needing replacement. They have a source for getting nice PT. Most of what is available to us is usually crap.

Was hoping to take the boat out this weekend but 70% chance of rain has put a stop to that plan.

[dorelse]

I also used 3/4" Ply that I sealed up with resin.  (Not PT).  1/2" had too much flex over the center tank and I knew wouldn't hold up over time.  I wanted something rock solid that would tie everything together and been strong enough for 7 people in the boat.

So...I ended up at 3/4". 


Idk Dan...I think you're allowed to vent about the PO's crappy job.  You paid for a 'good boat' and got a project boat instead...I'd be more than frustrated.

[76bayflite]

I thought the 1/2" flexed too much as well, I put foam in and glassed it in and it's rock solid now.

[Jerry]

The strength isn't in the plywood, it's in the fiberglass. I believe the best way to do the job is the cheapest way that won't come back and bite ya in the butt. The bottom line is it's your money and your boat and you have to do what you're comfortable with. It's normal, everybody that does their boat that lasted 40 years uncared for wants to re-engineer it to last a lifetime. If it feels go do it.

[WetRaider]

I've got more experience building houses ... when I do a house floor, it gets a minimum of single sheet 1-1/8" t-n-g ... or I go with two layers of 3/4" t-n-g at opposing 45* angles. 

I remember being a teenager and laying two layers on my half pipe ... one running true, the top layer (usually slick masonite) at a 45.

I'm headed down to take some pictures now ... This will show my new floor - the one uncovered under the old floor.  Bubbles in the glass tabbing .... sections I can just grab and peel right up. 

[WetRaider]

Ok ... I'll post pictures later tonight.
Pulled up the aft section of my surprise floor .... full of great stuff and wet stuff. 
The stringers are soaked ... year old yellow pine 1 x's, but wet and swollen.

I've got the pattern for the transom ... traced out 4 times on 1/2" oak ply ... I'll be roughly 2-5/8 thick with splash well.  My motor clamps open to 2-7/8.  There are some pits in the factory glass I think I'll fill first, before I lay up mat & resin for the transom.

The bilge was only on the starboard side of the center stringer ... I've got water on both sides.  The drain was a full inch above the low point, so it would always hold water.  There is resin cracking and lifting off like candy on a candied apple.  It's amazing how much resin was just poured in.  I've got layers of resin better than 1/2" thick.

[Rosscoe]

Sounds like quite a mess. I was wondering what they had run screws into. Now I know...the original floor! 
How are you supporting the hull with the deck removed?

[WetRaider]

Rosscoe .... The bunks of the trailer happen to sit right on the stepped portion of the hull that the floor sits on.  The upper portion has relaxed, and I'm ok with that for now as I am pulling things out.  Before ANYTHING goes back in, I have measured the width of the deck at 4 points.  I used those measurements to cut a piece of wooden closet rod for each point.  I will place a screw through the hull where the rub rail would attach and secure it to the ends of the closet rod (no doubt it will require someone on each side of the hull pushing together.  Then, I'll pull a chalk line from the center of the bow to the center of the transom and measure each "half" of the closet rods.  If I've got the same measurement on each side of the chalk line, I will assume I'm not twisted.  If one side is longer than the other, I'll have to push that section of the hull in.  I may have to lay another piece of wood (a very straight piece) across the center like a spine and ribs.  That's the plan, anyway.  It will look like an obstacle course as I work on it, but I'll get my floor in and some lateral support pieces cut.  Then I'll put the deck back on before I put the lateral supports in (like the bulkhead).  I can lay on my belly and glass those in.  At least this way they're glassed in with the deck in place & if I remove the deck it should hold it's shape a little better than now.

[WetRaider]

[dorelse]

[dorelse]

[dorelse]

Dan - Just linked in the full size photos from your Photobucket account.