Author Topic: Wiring  (Read 16825 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Wiring
« on: February 10, 2013, 04:08:05 PM »
I have been researching engine harnesses for quite some time and thought I finally found what I needed at E Basic Power. Supposed to be a "typical Mercrusier style" harness. They sell both the "engine" side and "boat" side. I also stumbled across a couple of wiring diagrams/schematics that I thought would help me and do somewhat but after spending some time marking my existing wires today, I see that the color code is not and exact cross. I can easily follow them from the plug to the alternator etc.
Couple if issues.
1. The only reason I bought both the boat side and engine side was to guarantee they would mate AND because according to the way they are sold, the gender of the plug and recpt are reversed on mine. Due to the max wire length of 6 feet on the motor side, I figured I should switch it which of course means changing the boat side too. As sold they list the "motor" side as having the female receptacle pins with the males being on the boat side. OK so change both and splice in the boat side.
My concern are the wire color and gauge differences. Both the new and old have 10 awg black and red. Good. My old one has a 10 awg orange that runs to the alternator. According to the wiring charts I found, they list the "Exciter" on the alternator as being Purple. The purple wire on the new harness looks to be 18 awg.
2. On the boat side of my old harness there are two purple/violet wires coming out of the plug and are spiced together into one wire and continue into the harness. One the wiring list I have it says the purple is to "ignition on key switch and gauges. On a related (I thought) diagram I found it says the purple on the engine side goes to the coil. I'm confused. Especially about the missing 10 gauge orange I currently have going to my alternator and this conficting info about the purple wire. Trying to go by what I have there currently isnt much help since it was so rotten and discolored, when I spliced it in way back when, just to get things running it doesn't really help. I used the closest color I could find and some of the old ones were really hard to tell what they once were.
I've attached the 2 docs I found but of course my boat is OLD so it doesnt match. It should BASICALLY be the same I would think????
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2013, 04:46:42 PM »
This is a little closer to what I have except I removed the external voltage regulator when I change the alternator and thermostat housing where it used to mount.
Shows the orange wire to the alt but my new harness doesn't have it. I suppose I could bypass the main plug but that kind of defeats the purpose. I found this by searching OMC wiring diagram because the old beast was painted OMC colors despite the fact it was a Chev 350

Here is what I currently have on the "boat" side and I think its safe to assume the discolored rotten stuff on the motor side is the same.
10 awg blk
10 awg red
10 awg org
2 violet 18 awg?
1 brown
1 gray
1 Light blue
1 white

New harness's

10 awg blk
10 awg red
18 awg? lt blue
18 awg brown/wht
18 awg yellow/red
18 awg tan
18 awg violet
18 awg gray
18 awg tan/blue
« Last Edit: February 10, 2013, 04:53:54 PM by Rosscoe »
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2013, 04:52:35 PM »
From what I remember a large ga. orange wire from the alternator is the charging output that goes to the starter's battery wire lug. A large ga. red (or red/purple) wire from there would normally go to the harness plug to go up to the ignition key and provide the power for the gauges and ignition when the key is turned on. A light ga. purple wire returning to the engine from the key through the harness becomes the power feed for the ignition system and the exciter for the alternator. The old style wiring that used an ammeter in the gauge cluster used the large ga orange wire up through the harness. So if you're converting to newer style harness you have to eliminate the ammeter wiring and change it to a standard volt gauge.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2013, 04:55:22 PM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2013, 05:01:24 PM »
The large orange definitely is on both sides of the plug in this case. I guess tomorrow I'll label everything on the motor, disconnect it and ohm it back to the plug. I can not see and identification as to pin out but I'm not too sure what that will get me really.
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2013, 05:15:58 PM »
My V174 originally had an engine were the alternator had the external regulator and used the ammeter wiring. With the replacement 1980's engine I also replaced the harness with the newer style wiring configuration. I kept all the original gauges and keyswitch except for the ammeter which I swapped out for a style-matching volt gauge. When wiring up everything behind the panel I first concentrated on getting the key switch and neutral safety in the control box wired to the ignition and starter. Then I ran power & ground to all the gauges from the key switch (purple) and main ground bus (black). Lastly I used the remaining wires from the harness to connect to their respective gauges. Luckily there were only 3 to worry about - temperature, oil pressure, and tachometer. I'm not using a trim gauge so I just tucked that wire out of the way, the volt and fuel gauges get their power right from the key switch and don't need any other wires from the engine harness.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2013, 05:39:32 PM »
Very practical way to go about it. I am planning on not touching anything under the dash. The "pigtail" as they called it could be bought in many different lengths, the shortest and cheapest being about 3 feet so my plan was to just splice that in. All the rotten stuff is on the motor side...at least the first inch out of the plug. I changed everything to the motor from that point but I can not leave it that way, hence the new harness. There really arent that many wires on the motor BUT if the wire colors dont match the other part of the harness, thats where it gets messed up. Speaking of external voltage regulator, I still dont know that I did that correctly either. The external reg. had 3 wires coming out. Black went directly to ground, green and brown. I reconnected the original orange to the new alternator and grounded the green to the alt case. Nothing smoked yet. :D
My biggest concern is the change in wire gauge (the orange one) Why couldnt it be at least match for match on the wire colors??? I know there are one or two I wont be using either. One was for some type of alarm and trim.
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2013, 05:54:29 PM »
Quote
My biggest concern is the change in wire gauge (the orange one) Why couldnt it be at least match for match on the wire colors??? I know there are one or two I wont be using either. One was for some type of alarm and trim.

The old style harness with the large ga. orange wire needed to be large because all the charging current was running up to the ammeter. From there it would return to the battery through the red/purple wire. The wire gauges needed to be large to handle all the current. By going through the ammeter first it measured your positive or negative charge rate or power usage from the alternator. The newer harnesses don't provide for the use of an ammeter so since their discontinuance all the output from the alternator would go directly to the battery via the main lug on the starter. With the ammeter eliminated the wire gauges need not be so large because it wasn't necessary send large amounts of current to the instrument panel anymore, everything there has low current draw.

Quote
Speaking of external voltage regulator, I still dont know that I did that correctly either. The external reg. had 3 wires coming out. Black went directly to ground, green and brown. I reconnected the original orange to the new alternator and grounded the green to the alt case. Nothing smoked yet.

If you're replacement alternator has an internal regulator you probably don't need the external module anymore. I think the green and brown wires on the external regulator are an input and an output (unregulated voltage in, regulated voltage out). If you have one of those connected to ground then you'll either have a short circuit to ground or no effect at all, depends on which wire is on ground and which is being fed power from the alternator. If I understand that old wiring diagram you provided the way that regulator works is it takes the voltage supplied at the key from the purple wires and regulates it out through the light green wire to the field in the alternator.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 09:17:04 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2013, 08:12:06 AM »
Sounds like I still may have issues with the alternator wiring as well. Since it was a single terminal alternator and had a green ground screw on the case, and taking the regulator out of the picture I assumed the green screw needed to be grounded but now that I think of it, the alternator is already grounded by being bolted to the block and as wired, there is no complete "circuit" with only one wire running to the alt. Am I following you? Considering there is only one terminal on the new alternator, how does that work?

So the issue with the large orange wire has to do with the use of an ammeter versus volt meter?
Wasn't planning on changing any gauges. Whats the upside of swapping out to a volt meter?

This is turning into a bigger mess then I expected. Not sure where to go from here.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 08:20:54 AM by Rosscoe »
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline thedeuceman

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3356
Re: Wiring
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2013, 09:30:37 AM »
a single wire alt only has a battery connection, it just charges when it is spinning.
as far as the ammeter goes, a voltmeter gives a better indication of the condition of the electrical system/battery, the ammeter only tells if the battery is charging or discharging. you would need to add the 10GA orange wire to retain the ammeter.
i would install a volt meter.
i may have one from the cobalt doner, i would have to check.
if you want a hand sorting out the wiring i could come up and give you a hand some evening this week.
Joe
75 GT150 "SeaDeuced"... Its Back !!
92 16CSS "Attitude Adjustment" is for sale
75 CV-16V8, Project
74 CV-16... its Purple !

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2013, 09:43:17 AM »
Thanks Joe
I appreciate the offer. Let me take a look at things again today and maybe do some more labeling. This fiasco kept me awake most of the night.
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2013, 10:19:08 AM »
Quote
I assumed the green screw needed to be grounded but now that I think of it, the alternator is already grounded by being bolted to the block and as wired, there is no complete "circuit" with only one wire running to the alt. Am I following you? Considering there is only one terminal on the new alternator, how does that work?

The "single wire" alternator is a self exciting, internally regulated alternator. I have one on my engine and it works fine. Yes, it is grounded through the engine block but they still provide a ground screw to connect a wire for ground because just simply bolting it may not provide enough ground if there's rust or corrosion between the bolted surfaces, especially if they are loose from vibration.

Quote
So the issue with the large orange wire has to do with the use of an ammeter versus volt meter?
Wasn't planning on changing any gauges. Whats the upside of swapping out to a volt meter?

An ammeter measures a rate of charge or lack of charge by reading the direction of current flow. There's a scale on the gauge marked positive towards the right and negative to the left with zero in the center. As the meter deflects to the right of zero when the engine is running it's registering a positive flow of current to the battery. If the meter moves to the left of zero that means either too much power is being used or current flow is coming from the battery instead of the alternator.

A volt meter registers the amount available voltage. A static battery should show around 12 volts (engine not running), and with the engine running should show closer to 14 volts. If the alternator wasn't charging then you would see a drop in voltage below 12 or 11 volts as the engine or accessories use power from the battery rather than from the alternator. Personally I think the volt gauge is a better indicator of battery and alternator health and is easier to understand.

Single-wire alternator:


Matching volt meter between the key switch and tachometer:

« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 10:48:49 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2013, 10:52:30 AM »
So did you externally ground your alternator? You just have a single wire to it and do you know what color it is off hand? That is what I meant when I said I grounded it. From that external screw to the block so in that case it wasn't a short. The remaining wire that came from the external regulator was brown and I just put some shrink tubing on it. Does this sound ok so far? It may have been purple actually. That is what that schematic shows. Hard to tell on this old discolored stuff.
If I swap out to a volt meter, then this will eliminate the need for the heavy gauge orange wire, correct?
I'm understanding it more now. I kinda slow. lol

« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 10:59:13 AM by Rosscoe »
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2013, 11:07:33 AM »
Quote
So did you externally ground your alternator?

After looking at my own picture I don't think I grounded my alternator, I see the vacant grounding screw right on top just underneath the hose connection. I really should add a black or green ground wire from there to a bolt on the engine block just to be proper.

Quote
You just have a single wire to it and do you know what color it is off hand?

My engine originally had a stator charging system like an outboard engine. I removed the factory stator & regulator charging system because it was junk and installed a conversion kit which included the single wire alternator, mounting bracket and pulley. I installed a 10ga red wire from the output terminal on the back of the alternator to a 90 amp fuse/link on the main battery cable lug on the starter.

Quote
The remaining wire that came from the external regulator was brown and I just put some shrink tubing on it.

With an internally regulated alternator you don't need the external regulator. I would disconnect it, remove it and store it with the old alternator.

Quote
If I swap out to a volt meter, then this will eliminate the need for the heavy gauge orange wire, correct?

Yes.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2013, 09:20:55 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2013, 12:06:22 PM »
yeah I already took out the old regulator when I added the new thermostat housing and alternator.
I just got done plowing the driveway so now I can get back out to the shop and maybe make some headway on this.
Thanks for all the help once again. I am sure there will be more questions.

Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #14 on: February 11, 2013, 07:33:33 PM »
For the most part, I got the engine side of the harness in except I haven't decided what I am going to do about the ammeter/volt meter situation yet. I looked under the dash and the ammeter distributes power to everything else and would require more rewiring which I will likely do at some point but not right now.
Basically, I followed all the existing wires from the main plug to their destination. labeled and matched wire colors as close a I could to the new harness.
Also, from what is left wire wise in the harness, I am not sure what would go to the alternator. All that is left is a tan/blue that the chart says is for an Audio Warning Buzzer and a brown/white that the chart says is for a trim sender. That leaves nothing for the alternator.
Rich, you said the new one wire alternators are "self exciting" On the wiring color codes chart posted, it say the purple wire is the "exciter" so I would think that would not be the one for the alternator?
On the schematic it shows a purple/black going to the ballast resistor. Being that there was nothing else similar, I used that purple one. I hate using two different sets of documentation but if I dont have the exact one, I have to wing it somewhat.

I do have a question about the "slave solenoid" It is one of two things left on the engine side. Currently there are 4 wires going to it. 2 heavy gauge Red wires coming from the starter solenoid and one from the starter, a black ground and a white going to the main plug. The white is a piece I patched in a long time ago because I could not tell what the original color was. Hardin Marines wire color chart says a Yellow/Red should go to the starter slave solenoid. There is a yellow/red in the new harness. Of course it conflicts with the schematic which does show a red from the battery, a white/red from the starter solenoid and a ground but I have 4 wires going to it. Whats your best guess on what color that 4 wire should be? Should I just use the yellow/red as stated in the Wire color code list? The gauge seems a little light duty to me. IT might be 14 gauge.
The pic is from the old nasty motor when I was patching stuff in to get it running.
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2013, 10:27:32 PM »
Quote
For the most part, I got the engine side of the harness in except I haven't decided what I am going to do about the ammeter/volt meter situation yet. I looked under the dash and the ammeter distributes power to everything else and would require more rewiring which I will likely do at some point but not right now

The way I understand your OMC wiring diagram is the orange wire coming up the harness to your ammeter also goes to the key switch to provide power for everything else via the purple wires. That feed can be substituted with the red battery wire that is going to the other side of the ammeter.

Quote
Rich, you said the new one wire alternators are "self exciting" On the wiring color codes chart posted, it say the purple wire is the "exciter" so I would think that would not be the one for the alternator?

If you had the normal alternator then yes, but your one-wire alternator doesn't require the exciter wire so you can leave it disconnected. Purple from your engine-end harness goes to one side of the ballast resistor, the purple/black wires coming off the other side of the ballast go to the ignition coil and starter solenoid.

The white wire going to the slave solenoid is your start trigger from the keyswitch which is equivalent to the newer yellow/red color code. The white/red wire going from the slave to the starter solenoid is what triggers your starter.

As for what to connect to the alternator it should be a large gauge red or orange wire from the output terminal to the main battery lug on the starter solenoid, probably one of the large red wires already there.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #16 on: February 12, 2013, 08:52:16 AM »

The way I understand your OMC wiring diagram is the orange wire coming up the harness to your ammeter also goes to the key switch to provide power for everything else via the purple wires. That feed can be substituted with the red battery wire that is going to the other side of the ammeter.


That would be cool if I eliminate the ammeter and just change the power source for the other gauges from orange to red. To add more confusion, under the dash there is another plug. I suppose the built the dash assembly and plugged it into a harness that runs back to the engine, but wouldn't you know it, some of the wire colors change again! I can see how power and ground is daisy chained under there so that shouldn't be too difficult.

If you had the normal alternator then yes, but your one-wire alternator doesn't require the exciter wire so you can leave it disconnected. Purple from your engine-end harness goes to one side of the ballast resistor, the purple/black wires coming off the other side of the ballast go to the ignition coil and starter solenoid.

The white wire going to the slave solenoid is your start trigger from the keyswitch which is equivalent to the newer yellow/red color code. The white/red wire going from the slave to the starter solenoid is what triggers your starter.
Good cuz thats about all I got left.

As for what to connect to the alternator it should be a large gauge red or orange wire from the output terminal to the main battery lug on the starter solenoid, probably one of the large red wires already there.
Unfortunately not. There is nothing from the starter to the alternator directly. I am guessing it is fed back from the ammeter? There are 3 wires on the main starter lug. The main from the battery, one to the slave solenoid and one that goes into the harness and up to the dash.

If I am following you, what you've are saying, it sounds like once I swap out the ammeter for a volt meter, I no longer need the heavy gauge wire under the dash. Remove that and substitute the power it was supplying using the large red, then add a 4th a heavy gauge red or orange to the starter main lug and run that directly to the alternator? Do I have that correct?
You can see the orange in the pic currently running directly from the plug to the alternator
[/quote]
Its sure going to be nice to be rid of this rotten stuff.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2013, 09:08:53 AM by Rosscoe »
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #17 on: February 12, 2013, 09:13:25 AM »
Quote
There is nothing from the starter to the alternator directly. I am guessing it is fed back from the ammeter? There are 3 wires on the main starter lug. The main from the battery, one to the slave solenoid and one that goes into the harness and up to the dash.

Correct!

Quote
If I am following you, what you've are saying, it sounds like once I swap out the ammeter for a volt meter, I no longer need the heavy gauge wire under the dash. Remove that and substitute the power it was supplying using the large red, then add a 4th a heavy gauge red or orange to the starter main lug and run that directly to the alternator? Do I have that correct?

Now you're catching on! From what I see in your pics this is easy - I see the orange wire, just cut it near the starter and put a large ring terminal on it and connect it to the main lug on the starter. Leave the other end of it connected to the alternator. You should probably install a 90 amp safety fuse in between though, to prevent over charge or damage from an unexpected short. Sierra makes them for the one-wire alternator conversion kits and I have one on my setup as well. See the link below:


http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=18-8220&pnumber=S188220&mfg=SIERRA&desc=90%20Amp%20Fuse%20Kit
« Last Edit: February 12, 2013, 09:27:31 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: Wiring
« Reply #18 on: February 12, 2013, 10:27:48 AM »
That looks slick.
Unfortunately, when I uncovered the existing orange wire to the alternator, most of the insulation cracked off and exposed the nice oxidized green bare wire underneath so it has to go. There is something encased in rubber in the wire to the Alt. Not sure if its a fuse or resistor or what. I'll should probably open that up and see what is inside, otherwise I'll be splicing in a new wire from there to the starter. I'd like to avoid as many splices as possible however. If its a fuse, I dont know how they'd expect you to ever change it since its encased.

Where would you install this fuse? Directly to the alt? or off the starter? Not sure how big that hole is and if that is what it is meant for.
90 amp? The wire would melt first I would think. 10awg wire must be good for about 30 amps?
« Last Edit: February 12, 2013, 10:31:06 AM by Rosscoe »
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: Wiring
« Reply #19 on: February 12, 2013, 10:34:54 AM »
They are meant to go on the starter. You'd slip the tang with the hole onto the main starter lug, then the other wires followed by washer and nut. You would attach the alternator output lead to the smaller stud terminal locked on with its own washer and nut and then cover it with the boot.

If your orange wire has a built-in in-line fuse then perhaps OMC would have wanted you to replace the whole wire if the fuse was bad.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115