Well, it looks like spring has almost arrived. The trees are just starting to bud out. I'm going to pull the boat out today or tomorrow and get the engine prep done so I can turn it over.
Most of you know my old GT has a 1976 Mercury 1150. The top cylinder had lower compression by about 10-12% when it was checked right after purchase in 2011. With a new engine harness, and new plugs, it did alright for that season. I was out 2-3 times a week on average. Put it away in October, 2011.
Last year, got stuck in the re-build. I worked the carbs over with OEM rebuild kits and made my own boat side harness. New ignition with push-to-choke, new controls. I didn't turn the key until August - with a little starting fluid sprayed down the throat, it fired up on the first try. The idle screws on carbs were set high, which I knew, but I was confident it would at least start on the water. The next time that engine started was at Red Wing. I had a handful of guys knee-deep at the launch ramp helping out (Shawn, Jason, Doran, that I know of, maybe a few more). Again, it wouldn't start on its own without a shot of starting fluid (bottle claims to be lubricating). Idle was adjusted for a low 600-700 rpm. It idled nicely when it started, until I had to engage forward or reverse. Once a drive gear was engaged, the engine shut down unless I shoved into the throttle. Without the cowl on, it seemed to run great. With the cowl on, it didn't run quite as well. I'll chalk that up to airflow - maybe cut into the cowl and install a "hood scoop." It also appeared we suffered a little overheating on that parade ... I was hanging back to not get in anyone's way if we had trouble, but then found out when the motor shut down that there was no-one left behind to help out. We bobbed for several minutes before I took the cowl off, sprayed some fluid again, started up and headed back towards camp.
After that, it was run only once more with Kurtis at Lake Red Rock. Once again, I had to remove the cowl and spray with fluid to start. It just wouldn't seem to fire on its own. Once running, though, it seemed to do ok. Would even re-fire if I shut down. Again, though, I had to advance the throttle to keep it in idle, pull back to neutral, grab forward, and hammer the throttle in one really quick motion to keep it running. Otherwise, it would die once a drive gear was engaged. I've also had trouble with this thing at WOT. It seems to get a fuel starvation issue when wide open. I've got a YouTube video with this issue happening. Just seems to cut out until I pull back on the throttle a bit. I could run low-mid 40's with Kurtis, but that was it. Trying to get any more would just have this thing acting like it was running out of gas.
Last winter I sprayed the cylinders with fogging oil through the plugs & turned the fly-wheel a few times to coat those walls. This was September, I believe. What should I be doing to this thing before I dump it in the lake? I think my plugs are ok - no need to spend money unnecessarily, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new set of plugs if it will help with anything. This is the old, rotating distributor, so I don't think plug wires are a possibility. And I'm pretty sure the distributor is obsolete. I can bring the idle up, either at the carb, or at the rotating distributor. I remember Shawn having to work that distributor by hand to slow it down some - it wasn't turning in to the stop on its own. I would much rather not have to remove the cowl and spray starting fluid every time I'm getting on the water. I'd like to see a couple more seasons out of this motor, given that we overbought this boat in the first place.
Any first-time-for-the-season hints, tips, and suggestions welcome.
