Author Topic: Preserving Seat Wood (Read 16731 times)

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 21, 2013, 06:14:33 PM »

With Gregg raising his motor 2" off the transom and gaining speed, I'm considering running two versions of my CVX-16. The Sunday driving version with all the seats in, and the racing version with the rear seat and passenger's seat removed. Bet I loss 60 pounds plus I can use 6 gallon portable gas tanks under the spash well. With some new props to test, should be running 57-58 MPH. Hold me back. LOL.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #41 on:** May 21, 2013, 06:43:19 PM »

Dave what is that made of ?
Foam , wood , metal ?

"With Gregg raising his motor 2" off the transom and gaining speed,"

Gregg hopes ... LOL

Try one of Doug's old tricks .. Pull off wind shield !

Jerry · « **Reply #42 on:** May 21, 2013, 06:46:04 PM »

Doug's trick is to shorten it up 6" by running into something.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #43 on:** May 21, 2013, 06:49:42 PM »

Be nice Jerry !

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 21, 2013, 08:43:09 PM »

Gregg, the transom has been reinforced by a metal plate about 1/8 inch thick, and on top of the metal plate are aluminum blocks 2" x 2" x 3/8 inch thick. The aluminum blocks are bending. I would have done it differently, probably thicker metal as the base, and two stainless steel fender washers.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #45 on:** May 21, 2013, 08:43:55 PM »

How about this for a "Race Set up"

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #46 on:** May 21, 2013, 09:07:43 PM »

Looks impressive. Those boat is it? Do seats cover up the tanks? My rear seats are too low for tanks to sit in them, so the tanks will be on the rear seat floor. Two six gallon tanks, each with their own line to the motor (thanks for the Johnson connection), sitting on a rubber mat so that the carpet does not get stained. Also with the one or two non spill tanks on the floor also.

The way to really do it right is construct a 18 gallon tank under the spashwell area and vent it out, but the portable tanks will work.

With the cost of the hull repair, skeg repair, steering system, and other improvements, the boat has doubled in cost.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #47 on:** May 21, 2013, 09:11:16 PM »

Saw picture here ...

1977 16' Glasstron Carlson - $2800 (Wisconsin Rapids)
http://wausau.craigslist.org/boa/3804836056.html

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #48 on:** May 21, 2013, 09:21:46 PM »

What happens when the fancy, complex seats wear out on the CVX-16's and other Glastrons, I am sure, is that the cost of constructing new seat frames and upholstery is cost prohibitive, and simplier seats are constructed. How many fisherman's seats have we seen in CVX's? Bet quality front and back seats would run about $2,500.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #49 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:20:30 PM »

These come in many colors. A couple of conduit clamps on the floor and you're good to go.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #50 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:23:47 PM »

Light weight ... That's for sure !

Jerry · « **Reply #51 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:51:42 PM »

ya just make em.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:55:37 PM »

Gregg directed my attention to the fasteners on the inside of the transom of the CVX-16, and I did not like what I saw. The transom has been redone, and they did a good job and capped the inside of the transom, knees, and flotation boxes with fiberglass mat and resin, filled the flotation boxes with foam to overflowing, painted everything with black resin. But instead of using one or two stainless steel fender washers, they used thick aluminum blocks that are bending and did not use nyloc stainless steel bolts.

Before putting in the rear seats, will use the stainless steel fender washers and nyloc stainless steel bolts.

Picture of the fasteners bought if ever switching to the 1988 Merc 115 HP.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #53 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:11:58 PM »

That looks better Dave ...

WetRaider · « **Reply #54 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:31:07 PM »

Dave,
I posted about this on my trailer thread ... think about using a different alloy on the nyloc nuts. Tim (Still_Fishin) told me last year not to pair stainless nuts with stainless bolts - that under pressure the metals will fuse together. I had never heard of such a thing, and I thought that OB mounting kits are sold with stainless bolts and nuts all the time ...
Then I bought stainless bolts and stainless nyloc nuts for the new trailer bunks. Put the brackets on and tightened them down so that I could lay the bunks on and measure distance between to keep them parallel ... pulled 4 of the 6 brackets off and could not budge the last two. Gave up and took it to the shop down the street ... had a breaker bar on both sides & couldn't break it free ... pulled out the impact tools ... eventually, the bolt had so much torque that it split in two. After that, Tim's advice came back to me and I understood what he meant. Those guys at the shop had never heard of such a thing either, but they all believed that nut was as good as welded. Would hate to hear about having to hack off a mounting bolt from under the splashwell. From now on, Tim could tell me he's catching blue marlin in the Mississippi there in Red Wing and I'd believe him ...

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #55 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:52:50 PM »

Dan, you are right about not matching stainless bolts and nuts. There is a lubricant that can be used between them that prevents bonding , and I intended to use it when installing that fastener set on the 1988 Merc. You can get around the bonding problem by using brass nyloc bolts, and that is what I will use on the Johnson. The stainless bolt can stand more pressure than the brass one, and that is why I was going to use it on the 1988 Merc.

I called a few places back then about the lubricant and it was either very expensive or else came in large quantities. Places like B & F Fasteners or McMaster Carr or Fastenal would carry the lubricant.

Thanks for the good advice.

David

Rosscoe · « **Reply #56 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:47:23 AM »

Would Anti seize work at all?

MarkS · « **Reply #57 on:** May 23, 2013, 09:08:18 AM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on May 23, 2013, 08:47:23 AM

Would Anti seize work at all?

That's what I was thinking Ross, it reportedly keeps the stainless from "galling"? Nobody warned me, I had to find out the hard way! (Had to use a Dremmell tool to cut the nut off.)

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 23, 2013, 02:27:17 PM »

Picked up two stainless steel nyloc 1/2" diameter x 13 thread nuts today from Fastenal and some anti-seize from Rapid Marine Sports. Rapid Marine Sports does not stock it, but they gave me a sample that the mechanics use.

On display in their showroom was a Ranger 621 with a 300 HP Mercury at a list price of $83,000, on sale for $74,400. Somebody grab it.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #59 on:** May 23, 2013, 07:15:59 PM »

Out with the old and in with the new.