mercruiser 140 is going to take a trip to machine shop

[buckz6319]

I've been busy with customers vehicles,  but did take some time to tear down the mercruiser 140
To bear block.

I will be taking the block to the machine shop for a  tanking and crack checking, cylinder bore check. If everything checks out good, then I'll take the remaining parts in to have them checked.

I have mic all the parts, and they are within specs, however I need a professional to look at them.

All the bearings look good, but one crank journal has a spot on it that I need looked at

I'll post a pic of that spot

[75starflight]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

[buckz6319]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

thanks Brandon, and I need to check in on your progress with the issue you have with your 140

[75starflight]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

thanks Brandon, and I need to check in on your progress with the issue you have with your 140

To make a long story short the timing gear slit forward on the camshaft and no one can figure out how it happened.

[buckz6319]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

thanks Brandon, and I need to check in on your progress with the issue you have with your 140

To make a long story short the timing gear slit forward on the camshaft and no one can figure out how it happened.

Oh Crap!, that don't sound good...timing gear on the camshaft not pressed on tight? screws not Loctite...strang things happen without reason sometimes...BTDT

[75starflight]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

thanks Brandon, and I need to check in on your progress with the issue you have with your 140

To make a long story short the timing gear slit forward on the camshaft and no one can figure out how it happened.

Thrust plate screws were tight and the gear was heat fitted to the camshaft. the machine shop threaded the new camshaft for a retaining bolt but would not fit under the timing cover so I JB Welded a fender washer to the gear and camshaft for reinforcement. Anything is better than nothing in my book at this point.
Oh Crap!, that don't sound good...timing gear on the camshaft not pressed on tight? screws not Loctite...strang things happen without reason sometimes...BTDT

[fireman24mn]

the machine shop threaded the new camshaft for a retaining bolt but would not fit under the timing cover so I JB Welded a fender washer to the gear and camshaft for reinforcement. Anything is better than nothing in my book at this point.

Couldnt you have just made a dent in the timing cover with a ball-peen hammer or something to give you clearance. Or use a bolt with a thin head or ground down the head?  I would be afraid of the washer coming off.

[75starflight]

the machine shop threaded the new camshaft for a retaining bolt but would not fit under the timing cover so I JB Welded a fender washer to the gear and camshaft for reinforcement. Anything is better than nothing in my book at this point.

Couldnt you have just made a dent in the timing cover with a ball-peen hammer or something to give you clearance. Or use a bolt with a thin head or ground down the head?  I would be afraid of the washer coming off.

the washer coming off is in the back of my mind. I did grind the bolt I had down to an 1/8" and it still would not fit with a fender washer, and with the way the front engine mount is it is too tight to hammer out the cover. I just hope it doesn't come off.

[buckz6319]

Hope everything goes well for you at the machine shop Dwayne.

thanks Brandon, and I need to check in on your progress with the issue you have with your 140

To make a long story short the timing gear slit forward on the camshaft and no one can figure out how it happened.

Thrust plate screws were tight and the gear was heat fitted to the camshaft. the machine shop threaded the new camshaft for a retaining boltbut would not fit under the timing cover

Brandon, both of my camshaft sprockets (140 & 3.0) don't have bolts,  am I missing something? lol

[buckz6319]

haven't made it to the machine shop yet:( but I'm still trying to get the block there. I thought it was a good price from Frank.

tanking the block,
magnaflux the block for cracks
check the the cylinder bores
$100.00
In the county where I work they wanted $200.00 to do the same work...go figure

BTW I got my otc shop manual, and I'm impressed with the amount of information, engines, and drives. The book has 600 pages, I thought I got a good deal for $19.00 shipping included


The owner I got the boat/motor from, said ''the engine was rebuilt''. I measured the bores and they are standard size piston bores, right at 4.000in. so I don't think the block was bored out, maybe the engine was original condition?, or refreshed? idk

I do see some balancing of the crankshaft, main bearing caps and several color paints on the counterweights, and connecting rod caps

I would like to know what the colors represent, are the for bearing sizing? I would like to know so, if I get asked a question from Frank about the engine. I'll feel like I can give him an answer and not sound stupid, which is how I feel sometimes Lol
here are a few pics of the crank

I thought this one is a good pic, showing a piece of drilled metal just hanging, waiting to fall...I remove it


I appreciate any information that y"all can add. I feel like I am doing the right thing starting with the block, and I need to get that 86 head checked out when I have the money to do so

[75starflight]

 Dwayne, that is the same book I have! And yes it.has a lot of information. All the specs.you need to check everything your.self off you want.

On the colors on the crank I do not think they mean anything at all. And the holes drilled in the last pic my crank has the same done to it prior to going to the machine shop.

[buckz6319]

update! I'm still waiting to get the block to the machine shop..Lol

I have been trying to get off early since I posted this, but hasn't worked out yet. I talked with the owner of the shop today, and he said he would be in for a spell on Saturday morning, so I hope I can get the block dropped off then.

I have printed out the specs for the engine, not sure if they need them? but I'm playing it safe. I also hope that I get a good report on the block, because this will determine which way I go from here. I feel confident that the block will pass inspection, if it doesn't then I'm going to take Marks advice and " put a big honking outboard on the thing" Lol

[buckz6319]

I finally got the block to the engine machine shop this afternoon.

the owner took one look at it and said that there was no cylinder wear, so we're off to a good start.

he also mentioned that it looked to be in original condition.

I wonder how that could be?  the previous owner said that he had the engine rebuilt so we shall see what's up, The shop owner said " We'll see if he was BSing you"

[buckz6319]

Well, got some news...the 140 block got cleaned, inspected, and cylinder bores inspected. .

The cylinder bores were within acceptable specs, no cracks found, and we're honed. The owner stated just standard rings will do,I believe he said 350 chevy rings? since the cylinders had no wear, and never punched out either, believed to be used vary little.
Good news!

Now wonder where I got that chocolate milky oil from...maybe the engine cover was left off and rain water got into the pan...idk

But movieing forward, I'll take the rest of the 140 bottom end matched parts to have them checked,  and measured for bearings...if all checks out. I will assemble the bottom end, and go from there...

[MarkS]

That's good news Dwayne, one step closer to being on the water!   

[buckz6319]

That's good news Dwayne, one step closer to being on the water!   

Thanks! Mark
If I get the short block ready, I will be happy

[buckz6319]

Update! the machine shop got the cam bearings installed ...I will try my best to get the remaining 140 marked parts to the machine shop next week, have to take off early from work to do it.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the chocolate milk oil in the engine oil...

wonder if it was from this flex drain that I hooked up to the exhaust riser to lower the noise, so the neighbor wouldn't call the Police when I ran it right before I saw the choco,,btw it worked! made the engine sound like it had a muffled attached to it

any thoughts on this??

[buckz6319]

Well, I got the remaining 140 matched marked parts to the machine shop, yesterday evening.

Waiting to here from them, with good news, if all is within specs,  I'll get all my parts, and start assembling the short block.

Any one know where I can purchase the 2 piece rear main crankshaft seal, at a reasonable price?

Wonder what other SBC uses the same seal...seems like anything with Marine attached to the part is so expensive

Thanks

[75starflight]

Well, I got the remaining 140 matched marked parts to the machine shop, yesterday evening.

Waiting to here from them, with good news, if all is within specs,  I'll get all my parts, and start assembling the short block.

Any one know where I can purchase the 2 piece rear main crankshaft seal, at a reasonable price?

Wonder what other SBC uses the same seal...seems like anything with Marine attached to the part is so expensive

Thanks

Dwayne, do you have an engine gasket kit already? If not, see if your machine shop can order you one. I ended up having a nice felpro set

[buckz6319]

Well, I got the remaining 140 matched marked parts to the machine shop, yesterday evening.

Waiting to here from them, with good news, if all is within specs,  I'll get all my parts, and start assembling the short block.

Any one know where I can purchase the 2 piece rear main crankshaft seal, at a reasonable price?

Wonder what other SBC uses the same seal...seems like anything with Marine attached to the part is so expensive

Thanks

Dwayne, do you have an engine gasket kit already? If not, see if your machine shop can order you one. I ended up having a nice felpro set

I'll check into that, they mentioned felpro also...
Thanks Brandon