Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Shrom CVX-18 on February 05, 2011, 08:10:50 PM
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OK guys the project started last night. The project started out frustrating because I went to back it in to the garage and my 4 wheel drive in my truck wouldn't kick in. I had blown a path but the thin layer froze and turned in to ice...So My truck ended up stuck attached to my boat. I was able to unhook the truck get it forward enough to get another truck hooked up and get the boat back in to the garage, and get my truck pulled out. Looks like I have another project to deal with on my truck ???...ok back to the boat. Today I was able to get the engine out, also the old exhaust. With no problems. Hopefully the rest of the project goes the same way. Here are a few pictures of what is done. Risers I repainted last week.
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Looking good man - keep it up! And sorry about the truck - I feel your pain. My Jeep's 4 wheel drive went out the day before we got blasted with 20 inches of snow. Great times..
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Here are the risers and S pipes freshly painted, and the tips just waiting to be installed. Before anyone says anything I do have the block off plate I just forgot to add that to the picture.
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Looking good Shrom. Those look like the newer style "dry fit" manifolds that your putting in.
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Looking good Shrom. Those look like the newer style "dry fit" manifolds that your putting in.
What does the "dry fit" mean? I am new to these terms. :-/
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Did you pull the motor to strictly make installing the thru hull exhaust easier or are you doing more stuff? Dont you need to motor in place to figure out where to cut the holes in the transom?
Maybe you talked about other things you are doing in another thread I havent seen. ???
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Did you pull the motor to strictly make installing the thru hull exhaust easier or are you doing more stuff? Dont you need to motor in place to figure out where to cut the holes in the transom?
Maybe you talked about other things you are doing in another thread I havent seen. ???
Hey no this is it, I don't have another thread.
I did pull the engine for the exhaust. The only way to get at the bolts for the old exhaust that is there you have to pull the engine. While the engine is out though I have decided to clean and paint the bilge area and change my freeze plug. I will also drop the oil pan and clean it out real good. I will also do little things like spark plugs and just general cleaning of the engine. You are right I will need to have the engine for placement of the tips. I will post pictures as that time comes.
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Great time to do that stuff while you have easy access. Should sound bad!
Are you installing any kind of baffles? Expect any trouble from law enforcement regarding sound?
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No baffles... ;D lol 4 inch tubing, risers down and out the back. Nah Were I go boating they don't seem to get anyone for having loud exhaust. Plenty of people have it. Watch this year will be there year that they start. ???
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Cool
4"..are the risers that size or do you have to use a reducer?
I certainly would think there would be a lot less back pressure with 4" but its a short run anyways. My V175 has 3" and I think I'll go with 4" risers now and use a reducer to hook up to the tips. I dont know yet. We'll see how the $$ start adding up. Maybe it will be cheaper for me to do 4" now. I dunno. Soon I am going to actually make some calls and price things.
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I did have the old "log style manifolds" and upgraded to these center risers. They just happen to be 4 inch. And I found exhaust tips on Craigslist for cheap that were never used. Right now everything is kinda falling together, the "S" pipe kit (Which is 4 inch)I was able to get used so that was cheap also. Thanks to OrangeFever. ;D Changing over to the new style manifolds I had to buy a new style alternator bracket and re-locate a couple things that were mounted on the old manifold but nothing major. I'm not sure that there is any reason why to go with 4 inch over 3 inch besides it being a deeper sound.
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Shrom the dry-fit manifolds came out in 2002. The way the cooling water flows from the manifold into the riser was changed. I suspect one advantage is a better/more durable gasket seal between the manifold and riser. But I'm not sure. I was hoping maybe you knew! ;D
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lol Yeah I had no clue. They came off a 03 stingray engine (at least that was written on the side of the manifolds) I got a pretty good deal an them so I cant complain either way. Maybe it will help proformane ;D doubtfull but one can wish lol I am looking in to getting a 4brrl intake and carb. but that can be done with the engine in the boat, so i am in no hurry to do that right now.
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Check out GT-jeff's post. He did this a couple months back to his CVX-18.
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Check out GT-jeff's post. He did this a couple months back to his CVX-18.
Yeah I have acually talked with him through email. He gave me his basic list of steps that he did for his boat. Sounds like it all worked out great for him and went well. Seeing his deff motivated me to get started on mine.
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Are your new manifolds plumbed the same as the old ones in terms of what line is in and out? Maybe it doesnt matter? My old original log style had both the in and out the hoses on the front and I beleive merc cruiser style have one dropping out the bottom? I really dont know if the direction of flow matters or not. I'll be dealing with that this spring.
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Craig
How is the thru hull coming along?
Do you have the engine removed yet?
What manifold are you going to use for your intake?
A edelbrock performer RPM would be a good choice.
Jeff
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Are your new manifolds plumbed the same as the old ones in terms of what line is in and out? Maybe it doesnt matter? My old original log style had both the in and out the hoses on the front and I beleive merc cruiser style have one dropping out the bottom? I really dont know if the direction of flow matters or not. I'll be dealing with that this spring.
The new manifolds are plumbed about the same. They have one for on the risers and yes it did have only one out the bottom (center) on the manifolds themselves. I am plugging the center one, and using the two outer holes (that have plugs in them.) That will allow me to still have two hoses from the thermostat housing from the old setup. If I am correct the direction doesn't matter with the hoses that went to the manifolds, as long as you put the same hose that went to the old riser on to the new riser it should work fine. I will post pictures tomorrow of that setup. I will be getting new hose just because the old hose will not be long enough i do not think.
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Craig
How is the thru hull coming along?
Do you have the engine removed yet?
What manifold are you going to use for your intake?
A edelbrock performer RPM would be a good choice.
Jeff
Jeff,
I did get the engine out, While the engine is out I decided to go ahead and clean the bilge and put a couple coats of paint on it. Plus clean up all that wiring, and get it out of the clean engine compartment. The new manifold is just a stock GM that I was able to pick it up cheap. I also picked up and stock 4brrl 350 260hp carb for a price that I couldn't pass up. So I am looking to make that work. Steve is helping me out on possibly finding a cam setup to put in also, but sense I am not looking to not spend big bucks I will be nothing wild. Just enough to get me a little more stuff. The engine compartment is ready, now I am just waiting to get the engine back together and start again on the exhaust. :) (the original project) ;D I had also installed new freeze plugs while it was out.
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Looking good Shrom! All you guys with your nice and clean, freshly painted, engine bays. I'm kinda surprised you didn't take out the rear seat to pull the motor. It is nice on these boats how everything can be removed fairly easy to open up the engine bay if need be.
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Looking good Shrom! All you guys with your nice and clean, freshly painted, engine bays. I'm kinda surprised you didn't take out the rear seat to pull the motor. It is nice on these boats how everything can be removed fairly easy to open up the engine bay if need be.
Thanks, I had thought of pulling the back seat, but honestly It wasn't really needed. The engine just lifted straight up and out. :)
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For those who asked about the old to new manifold setup... Take a look at the picture. I will plug the center hole. and use the two outer holes. Direction should not matter. The water goes in the manifold and out the exhaust. lol All it is doing is cooling the manifolds/risers. As far as the risers go, That same hose that went to the original risers will go the new risers. Once I have it all together I will post more pictures
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OK guys thought Id give you a preview of the rear end of my boat. I just got the tip holes cut out on Sunday. Tell you what out of all the work I did, cutting the 4 inch holes out was the hardest part of the hole project. Not only did it just feel weird cutting that big of holes in the transom but it was a pain. If any of you do this to your boat, Here is a tip that will make the drilling go faster( what I figured out and worked great ;D ) Cut the hole so that you get through the outside fiberglass, then peel that out so that you see the wood. Then around the hole drill a bunch of little 3/16 inch holes so that when using the 4 hole saw it is not cutting near as much surface area. Also allows the chips to fall in to those little holes....Anyhow. The tips are mounted and once they are cured I can put all the piping in place( hopefully this weekend I will have my 4brrl intake to put on also) If I am thinking right tips will all but one inch be under water line.
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Craig
LOOKIN GOOD KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
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Looks great Craig! Can't get over how thick that transom is - Wow! :o You'll be chomping at the bit like Jeff and a few others this spring to get that baby in the water and hammer it! ;D
As far as your exhaust cooling I would route the port & starboard hoses from the top front of the engine to the existing hose barbs located bottom center of the manifold. That "T" fitting should also have a plug for draining. Or you could just pull the hose.
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That's lookin freakin bad a** man. Bet it'll sound killer. Very cool!
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Yeah I'm pretty excited to say the least. All I need now is my intake to come and everything can go back together. including freashly airbrushed hatch. We had nice weather here this past weekend near 70 and now I woke up this morning and we had 5 inchs of snow on the ground...I'm ready for warmth.
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Awesome work man! Those tips and the brushwork on the cover look great :o
Once again I'm inspired but can't do anything about it...spring needs to get here stat.
Keep it up...
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Awesome work man! Those tips and the brushwork on the cover look great :o
Once again I'm inspired but can't do anything about it...spring needs to get here stat.
Keep it up...
Thanks my buddy was the one who did the brush work. I tried to incorporate the Glastron Strip as the underline and the pearl white "C" is Carlson.
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more picture updates. This past sat I was able to get the S pipes and risers in place. This sat come the freshly painted new to me intake, and instillation of the 4brrl carb. If it is warm enough out I will fire her up.
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Looks awesome bud...I'm assuming it all went together smoothly?
When you get the chance, you should probably post of sound clip of it idling... ;D
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Looks awesome bud...I'm assuming it all went together smoothly?
When you get the chance, you should probably post of sound clip of it idling... ;D
It did go vary smoothly, Once I have my intake/carb on and all my hoses ran, and of course nice weather. I will video it running at idle.
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Looks great Craig! Nice and clean. 8) Personally I'd have to fire it up once the intake & carb are installed just to hear it! ;D
FYI - I mailed the engine cover screw to you today.
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FYI - I mailed the engine cover screw to you today.
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Great! :) As soon as I get It I will get started on a new print. I will keep in touch with you. I have to agree with you, I will be firing her up as soon as everything is together. I am putting it back into the garage this weekend to do more work on it. Including new speakers all the way around. Its got to sound good even with the engine off too ;D I have a few other odds and ends stuff on the to do list for it also, but there are not as exciting. I'm hoping my girl gets me a pair of the Carlson emblems for my birthday....she asked me what I wanted and that's all I told her lol
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I'm hoping my girl gets me a pair of the Carlson emblems for my birthday....she asked me what I wanted and that's all I told her lol
Those emblems aren't cheap but dang they just add so much to the look of the boat if the originals are trash. Money well spent IMHO.
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Looks great!
What did you use to seal the tips...5200 or?
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Yes that is the sealant. That's stuff is made for making a good seal against wood, fiberglass and more. Its sticks to surfaces better then your typical silicon.
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My intake is cured and ready for installation this weekend. Amazing on what a nice paint job does.
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Yes that is the sealant. That's stuff is made for making a good seal against wood, fiberglass and more. Its sticks to surfaces better then your typical silicon.
Yup and it sticks so good that it can delaminate stuff if you have to disassemble so it should be used for faily permenant assemblies.
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My intake is cured and ready for installation this weekend. Amazing on what a nice paint job does.
Bolt it on!!! 8) are you gonna try the carb as-is? let me know if you are gonna get it together, I'd like to stop by and hear it.
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Wex. for right now yes I am going to try the carb as is. if I need to rebuild it I will. but I figure not going to hurt to try is as is. I'll let you know if I have it ready to start this weekend.
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Fired her up yesterday in my garage just take make sure I had all wiring correct. Sorry guys no video yet. I didn't let it run long because I had no water too it. So once I have a good day on the weekend I will hook up the water and run it longer to make sure it wont over heat and dial in the carb/timing a little.
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nice work Shrom... let me know when you are gonna run it with water, I'd like to check it out. I can bring the video camera along too if that helps.
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Congrats on getting it all put together and running - that's got to feel good!
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Oh yeah it felt great to turn the key any have it fire up. Of course I had to crank it to get fuel in to the carb first besides that it fired up with no problem.
Steve that would be great if you could bring the video camera, i will be sure to let you know when get it running with water. This weekend doesn't look like good weather so i will probably get other little
Things done. Plus can't forget the stuff i should be doing around the house:-/
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Craig,
How did you route your manifold plumbing? I found a link that they used bottom 4 ports and plugged the top 2. Is that how you did yours, or did you change the thermostat housing? This is what I found when doing some research.
http://my.boatus.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62922 (http://my.boatus.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62922)
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Grinder - thanks for that link...I'll be dealing with the same issue in a few weeks and don't plan on buying the newer t-stat.
By the way, I was looking at the exact pair of manifolds you bought for weeks! I hope they turned out as nice as they looked :)
I think Craig blocked off the bottom fitting on his manifolds and uncorked the two ends, allowing him to use the original number of hoses/original t-stat. Craig, how's my aim?
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That is currect What I did was used the old t-stat houseing and I plugged the middle fitting on the risers and used the two outer ones on the manifolds. I ran the hoses just like they ran with the old. Riser to riser. front hose to front. rear to rear. If you look back through I have a picture of the manifold. I will post more pictures later today of all the hoses hooked up. I did not get the chance to run it yet with water. I will be doing that this sat. I do believe that I shouldnt have any problems with overheating.
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So your risers are connected too? How about some pics? My old log style were connected and had both lines going into the front. Now when I replace the manifolds and risers. I'll need to replumb too. Did you use just regular old plumping fittings or "special" marine type? I'd like to see the set up.
Thanks
Opps just saw the pics earlier in the thread. Wow you have all kinds of barbs coming off the thermostat housing. I only have 4
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here are pictures. yeah I do have a bunch of plumbing. I was able to re-use the old hose and Wexrocks gave me two of his old hose from his 454 engine that he had laying around.
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one more pic. I will be putting a spark arrestor cover on this weekend. I am currently giving it a fresh coat of paint. ;D
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Nice job Shrom! Looks like your ready go this spring. ;)
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Did you have to persuade the dip stick a little? ;D
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Look like 4" risers?
I imagine you use gasket cement on all the gaskets? Dont want those to leak.
Looks good!
I'm looking at those hole in the transom and thinking...knowing me, although I think I over think stuff sometimes, I probably would have laid out the location from the inside and not taken the flanges on the tips into account :o That would have been a bad, bad mistake!
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Did you have to persuade the dip stick a little? ;D
I did move it a bit, but it was not needed.
And yes they are 4 inch risers down to 4 inch tips ;D
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Okay guys, I got to see Shrom's boat run today with the new thru-hull... sounds awesome!!! and a real clean, top quality install.
I took a video so that everyone could check it out. I uploaded it to my youtube channel, this link should take you there...
http://www.youtube.com/user/wexrocks
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Sounds GREAT!!! Do you have a part number for your alternator bracket?
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Sounds GREAT!!! Do you have a part number for your alternator bracket?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/305-350-CHEVY-V8-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET-MERCRUISER-EXHAUST-/160362174021?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2556549645
I have kept my eye out all winter for a used bracket, Nothing :-/ So I ended up biting the bullet and buying this one. It works perfect. A bit pricey.
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Is it the same as this one?
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That looks to be the same thing to me. If not its darn close...Not sure if mine has a part number on it. I will check tomorrow and get back to you.
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Craig - congrats man it sounds and looks awesome 8)
Grinder - where did you find that alt bracket and what's it cost? Like Craig said, the one he used (and I plan on using) ain't cheap.
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This is where I found it.
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/OSCCVAB/MER10I (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/OSCCVAB/MER10I)
or
http://208.112.68.30/detail.aspx?ID=32588 (http://208.112.68.30/detail.aspx?ID=32588)
This should work as long as it is a Mercruiser/Mando type alternator?
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You obviously did more research then I did. That's a good deal. As long as the existing lower tension mount will would with it. The one I bought came with a new one.
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As long as the existing lower tension mount will would with it. The one I bought came with a new one.
That's what I was thinking too - Craig, does/did your new tension bracket have the same specs/measurements as the one that came with your new alternator bracket?
Thanks again for the help bud...
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I'd think it would have to, or the belts wouldn't line up.
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I think your right, if they didn't the belts won't line up. I didn't compare the old to the new. I just put all on and it works great. I was able to keep the old belt and use it.
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Makes sense to me...time to place an order.
Too bad it's going to be in the 30's and snowing this week, otherwise I might have been able to get this whole thing started! MN rules :'(
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Thought I would post a before and after picture of the engine compartment. The new manifolds makes it seem like there is a lot more room. I know it will be easier to change my spark plugs. :) Overall I am vary pleased on the project and how everything turned out. I was able to keep the cost pretty low. I got great deals by keep my eye on Craigslist and Ebay. ;D
The exhaust and bilge may be done. But I still have the hatch to put back on. I have put new latches on the hatch, which will work great once I make mounts for on the boat itself. ( Burnin Daylight I think you know what I mean.) In addition to the new latches when I put the hatch on I will install gas struts to hold it up when opened.
Burnin Daylight, I just now saw that post on the national site about you buying the same latches and them not working because of the angle. ( sorry I never responded, I'm hardly on that site anymore. No one over there seems interested in what I'm doing to my boat...)
Anyhow, I am taking care of your problem of having only one screw! Next week hopefully I will have new screws made up and ready to be sold. They will be just like the originals! only with out the slot on the top.
'
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Thanks Shrom. Everything you've done looks great. You seem to have gained space in your engine compartment and I lost some. I'm sure those latches that I bought will come in handy somewhere they just were wrong for my purposes. I am already starting to get the additonal hardware to be able to mount the latch screws as soon as I get them. Thanks again. Great job on the exhaust, keep those exhaust baffles in place for sure now.
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You seem to have gained space in your engine compartment and I lost some.
keep those exhaust baffles in place for sure now.
You may have lost space, but gained a lot more power in place...
I saw the thread about what happened to you boat. :-/ and when you said about keeping the exhaust baffles in place on my thread, a question came to mind. Does you exhuast not have internal flappers? I know that they are plenty out of the water, but i would have thought they would anyway. Mine do in the tips. I thought about putting those external flappers on as well. Not sure I need it. plus I don't really care for the looks of them. I hope your able to get you back on the water asap! good luck to you! And thank you for the compliments. ;D P.S. I would love to have pictures of you boat emailed to me with the new Hatch screws on. I can use it as advertizing.
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Ordered a electronic conversion kit for my distributor and new coil, Will probably end up replaces the wires too while I'm at it. I have heard these kits work great. Being on the water I believe it to be a good move. Wont have to worry about my points anymore. I am anxious to see what kinda of power gains I get with the 4brrl car, exhaust, this kit and coil/wires. I ran top speed last year at 55mph. with a 19 pitch prop. Any higher prop I lost my rpms. I hope I can run a higher prop now. ;D
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I am definately going to do the electronic ignition swap at some point too. Was it easy?
Maybe a new coil. Where did you get your kit from? I see them for about 115.00
I have a Mallory distributor.
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I am definately going to do the electronic ignition swap at some point too. Was it easy?
Maybe a new coil. Where did you get your kit from? I see them for about 115.00
I have a Mallory distributor.
I did not receive it in the mail yet. It will be coming Friday. So i will install it next weekend.http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14217-electronic-conversion-for-most-mallory-v-8-distributors.aspx this is the site that I ended up getting the kit and coil from. I think there are other kits out there that are cheaper, but I was told that this is a good kit? ??? I'll find out I guess.
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yes, CP performance was where I was looking at them too. Seems reasonable.
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Guys, I need info. or pictures on how yours may be setup. I put the 4 brrl carb on and have questions on how the choke works. It looks like there is a vaccum port on the front of the carb. Do I run a line from that to the intake? or just plug it? or what? I wish I had a better picture, maybe I will snap one this week to put up. It seems to idle and run fine the way it is. ??? Any help would be great. The orange arrow is pointing at the plunger, I think it might go to? The red is the port I am talking about.
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Craig
The vent coming off the front of the carb on my set up goes to the top of the fuel pump.
The choke system looks like a electric choke to me.
maybe Rich will chime in on this one.
Looks great keep up the good work
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Darn, beat me to it! ;D
Yes, there's supposed to be a clear yellow hose from the mechanical fuel pump to that barbed fitting on the carb. It's a fuel pump failure indicator, in the event of a rupture of the pump diaphragm then fuel will appear in that hose and if the leak is bad enough the fuel will drown the carb. See my pic below:
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/Rattan3973/V174%20Floor%20Construction/Engine%20Installation/IMG_0290.jpg)
There should also be a short hose going from the base of the carburetor to the vacuum pull-off on the side of the carb. That's to kick open the choke a quarter inch when the engine starts. The choke should open the rest of the way as the engine warms up.
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Thanks guys! That helps me out. I will be working more on my boat this weekend. That was one of the things I wanted try and solve/hookup. and now I can! Weather is not quite warm enough to go out yet here but my plans this weekend is to get the engine aligned, outdrive on, hook up that line to the carb. And put the new electronic distributed kit on. Basically I want to have it ready this weekend to be able to go out on the water when i get a nice day.
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Hey Shrom gotta question for ya. Looking at one of your earlier pics it looks like you're missing the choke thermostat and link that goes in the spot I indicated on the pic. It's the device that opens the choke fully as the engine warms up. It's basically a bi-metal coil in a small metal housing and it's supposed to have a metal link rod with it to connect to the choke lever on the carb.
See the link below, part numbers 29 thru 33
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Mercruiser/1982/02606342/CARBURETOR%20AND%20AUTOMATIC%20CHOKE/parts.html (http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Mercruiser/1982/02606342/CARBURETOR%20AND%20AUTOMATIC%20CHOKE/parts.html)
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..... ( sorry I never responded, I'm hardly on that site anymore. No one over there seems interested in what I'm doing to my boat...)...'
Had to take the bait on that one. I'm genuinely interested in your project, and I am confident others on the other forum would be as well :). Incidentally, the forum 'over there' is picking up these days quite well. I like to think these forums compliment each other, not compete with one another.
Can't wait to see pics & video of your boat on the water again.... sure sounds nice on land, that's for sure.
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It's basically a bi-metal coil in a small metal housing and it's supposed to have a metal link rod with it to connect to the choke lever on the carb.
here's a pic
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It's basically a bi-metal coil in a small metal housing and it's supposed to have a metal link rod with it to connect to the choke lever on the carb.
here's a pic
Thanks, I do have that part installed now. I had took it off to paint the intake. Then when I was running it I realized I didn't put it on.
Glastron_GT160, I didn't mean for that to be insalting when I say that. I just simply like how on this site I can count on some opinions and response. On the national site I haven't got any... maybe its because nobody knows me? Not sure. You guys here just seem more welcoming,and seem to check/ be more involved.
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Just thought I would throw on a few pictures that I took from the day I had it running.
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You even pull that CVX18 w/Chevy truck! I knew there was a reason I liked you! ;D
If you had started posting on the national Glastron site like me 7 years ago you'd realize how lame it has become. I've been waiting too long for it to come back to what it once was. We can only hope!....LOL
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I started to reply, but I'd better keep my comments to myself. I like both sites, personally. They're different "atmosphere's", but that's what makes life interesting.............. ;)
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I think the national CGOA site is coming back more and more...I think as long as everyone continues to play nicely there it will only continue to grow.
I personally hang on both sites.
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agreed. I did not mean for what I said to be a bash on the site, sorry to anyone that I may have offended. Life goes on.
CVX Fever, you better believe its a Chevy...lol only way I roll when it comes to trucks,they have to be manual too. 8)
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I think the national CGOA site is coming back more and more...I think as long as everyone continues to play nicely there it will only continue to grow. I personally hang on both sites.
As should we all Doran. For what it's worth CGOA went through a 'meltdown' of sorts a few years ago. Several people were angry over certain rules & regulations, etc. Fights ensued & fingers were pointed in a lot of directions. Then the site went dead. Along with hundreds of priceless pictures of restos, tons of advice, etc.
Well it's hard to lay blame I s'pose. And why bother. Better we all try to make the 'new' site a better place? Only take ya a couple clicks.
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" Better we all try to make the 'new' site a better place? Only take ya a couple clicks. "
A site is only as good as it's members make it !
I think every one should support it.
You can never have enough Glastron/Carlson info !
Don't want to lose it like Carlsonspeed ...
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Once again. I am sorry. I have nothing more to say. I cant take back what I said and how I said it. I agree with what you guys are saying. Us members are the only ones that can make the site be a better place.
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Wow, Shrom... Look what you started!!! ;D maybe we should have started a thread about it! I agree with just about everyone to some degree. No, I don't think the sites should be divided. Yes, I believe there is much to be gained by all having more resources, experience, sharing photos, and so on. I do comment on threads there, post my own, and hang out to see what others are up to. The issue that I see being a potential problem is the same with that of some of the performance sites, of which some members hang out at both, so maybe they are just used to it, but, I see alot of threads with some closed minded outlooks from members, some opinions that are pushed as the only right answer, and the idea that because a member did something a particular way and it's worked so far, that it is the BEST way, regardless of anyone else's experience or education on the matter. I hate to see someone arguing their opinion to death in the hopes that it makes them right if everyone else gives up. I have seen some members step in to try to keep a positive environment going, and I think if that continues people will understand that some behaviors are not welcome. Overall, I think the site and the members are great, but perhaps with being a larger site, there is a more "mixed" crowd. Well, that's all I got!
Wonder if we should give Shrom his thread back... ;D
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OK guys, I'll be putting my boat back in the garage tomorrow and the plan is to finish everything mechanically.
Engine alignment,
Mount the outdrive
Electronic distributor conversation kit,
New High performance coil,
Hook up that fuel hose that goes from the fuel pump to the carb.
and hopefully figure out why my temp is not showing up at the gauge. I put a new sending unit in and a the gauge is new. I did a test with hot water in a pan. I believe it to be a bad ground. When I hook up a wire straight to the batt. to the threads on the sending unit it reads a temp. I brought a pipe tape home from work to clean up the threads. I hope that does the trick.
Once I have all of that done, I will focus on getting that Hatch back on. If weather every goes back to being warm I'll get it out on the water. I'll probably be giving Steve a call to use the buddy system for the test.
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If weather every goes back to being warm I'll get it out on the water.
Holy crap .. it's nearly 100 deg down here in Phoenix. Anyone want to go to the lake??? :o
Your rig sure looks great Shrom. It's going to sound fantastic on the water.
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If weather every goes back to being warm I'll get it out on the water.
Holy crap .. it's nearly 100 deg down here in Phoenix. Anyone want to go to the lake??? :o
not so lucky here, we woke up to snow on the ground! Which I thought we were done with. We had a beautiful 70+ degree day a week ago, and I was gettin worked up for boating season. It'll be nice in a week or two...
Shrom, keep me posted, and let me know if you need an extra set of hands for anything this weekend. I'll just be toolin on the CVZ.
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Thanks! yeah We had a week of beautiful spring weather. Then out of no where like Wex said it has been cold. Looked at the weather for next week and it looks like its going to start getting warmer from now on. I will keep you posted Wex. You are more then welcome to come hangout. I keep thinking of things I would like to do to it...this list never ends.
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I keep thinking of things I would like to do to it...this list never ends.
You're not the only one. I told Dorelse I wasn't gonna do it, and just be happy with the stock 175, but I've already got a few parts on the way, and tracking down a few more. I think I'm gonna "boost" the 175 a bit for this year. ::) if I do, I'll post it on my thread. I was real happy with how it ran last year, very dependable, and not too bad on top end as we were pretty closely matched. but if you're gonna take it up a notch, then I'll play too! I was gonna step up in prop this year anyway because of how much power I still had on tap, but with these mods, looks like I'll be going higher pitch yet. can't wait to see what your changes do for you. like I said, your cam part # is the same as the 228hp, and your carb is from a 260hp. so theoretically, it should at least put you over the 228 mark, which combined with your thru-hull, should be a very noticeable difference over the stock 198hp you had. I don't see any reason why we won't both be over the 60mph mark, and hopefully we are still pretty closely matched, just more fun that way when we're out playin! not to worry, my mods are simple bolt ons and swaps, won't hold me up for the season. when this crap weather breaks, I wanna be on the water just like you do!
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;D Just picked up the 23p Raker for the 235 Johnson...so looks like we're both playing Wex!
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;D Just picked up the 23p Raker for the 235 Johnson...so looks like we're both playing Wex!
thatta boy! I was just gonna send you a text to see if you went to get it. hmm... might wanna borrow that one... ;D
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That and the 21p I should find the right prop in there somewhere.
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poor Shrom, we keep finding different agendas to step all over his thread with! ahh, such is life on forums I suppose. sorry Shrom! ;D we'll talk about your boat, I promise! ;)
just playin'... I'll get ahold of ya tomorrow and see how it's goin.
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poor Shrom, we keep finding different agendas to step all over his thread with! ahh, such is life on forums I suppose. sorry Shrom! ;D we'll talk about your boat, I promise! ;)
just playin'... I'll get ahold of ya tomorrow and see how it's goin.
Thats ok guys lol. :)
I was actually going to get on the subject of props anyway. I ran a 19 pitch last year and topped out at 55mph with ideal rpms. I was wondering if anyone knew what I could probably get away with now with my new additions to the engine? I have a 21 3blade to try and a composite 22 4 blade. but I because it is composite and 4 blade i don't think it will give me full advantage.
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Craig
Running a stock mercrusier 260 would run out at 59.6 with a 23pitch Mirage at4600rpm
After mods to my engine new RHS vortec heads,cam and intake approx 350hp with a 23 mirage 61 mph at 4600rpm
23 laser II 67 mph at 5000rpm
Going to try a 25 laser II this spring hoping to bring my rpm down and speed up a couple mph
So it takes a lot of hp to make em go fast, by adding 100hp only gained 8mph on the same pitch prop but gain a little in rpm.
Torque plays a big roll in getting them to move, the cam I used is a high torque (kind of like a RVcam) but kept it mild for idle purposes.
I know I rambeled alot but hope this helps in your prop selection.
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I definately believe prop pitch and brand have alot to do with it. The California edition CVX18's were running low 60's off the showroom floor with 260hp. Like GT-150 Jeff said, he gained 5mph with the same pitch, just different brand. I have a 21p bravo you can throw on there for a run also if you want to try it.
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Shrom I've ran a 21P SS Laser, 22P SS Enertia, and 23P SS Laser.
The 22P & 23P props were too much pitch for my boat and gave pretty much the same top speed(57 MPH GPS) as the 21P but were a lot a slower out of the hole. My WOT RPM's w/22 & 23P props were 4000- 4100 RPMS lightly loaded. Too low. The 21P put me right at 4300-4400 RPM.
I would start with a 21P and 23P SS 3 blade prop. The Lasers seem to work pretty good on these boats. You definitely want a prop that will give you some bow lift.
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Thanks guys. That helps me out, I have heard that the Laser props was a good choice. I will have to do some testing before I break down and buy a new prop. Wex that would be great if I could use that prop to test out.
I was able to get my boat in the garage. I got the engine aligned and outdrive on!! Boat looks so much more complete. ;D I think before I take it out on the water I am going to put a new impeller in. Just to be safe. The new coil is on and when I went to hook up the electronic destributor kit. I realized it already had it....I felt like an idiot. :-/ Why didn't I check that before I ordered it..Owell. So if anyone is looking to do the convertion let me know I have one for sale.
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I'm going to assume that the CVZ-18 can use the same props as the CVX's...
Shrom - who makes the composite prop you have? I've been extremely happy with Piranha props and do actually plan to run them on whatever boat I end up keeping. (Which looks to be both!)
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Craig
Running a stock mercrusier 260 would run out at 59.6 with a 23pitch Mirage at4600rpm
After mods to my engine new RHS vortec heads,cam and intake approx 350hp with a 23 mirage 61 mph at 4600rpm
23 laser II 67 mph at 5000rpm
What is the supposed red line on Marine 350's anyways?
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[I was able to get my boat in the garage. I got the engine aligned and outdrive on!! Boat looks so much more complete. ;D I think before I take it out on the water I am going to put a new impeller in. Just to be safe. The new coil is on and when I went to hook up the electronic destributor kit. I realized it already had it....I felt like an idiot. :-/ Why didn't I check that before I ordered it..Owell. So if anyone is looking to do the convertion let me know I have one for sale.
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I would be interested in your kit. I have to look at my funds however. I'm already over what I was going to spend this spring.
This is for a Mallory, correct? Which coil did you end up going with?
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I would be interesting in your kit. I have to look at my funds however. I'm already over what I was going to spend this spring.
This is for a Mallory, correct? Which coil did you end up going with?
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Yes That is correct it is for a Mallory, 8cyl here are links to the exact coil and Electronic ignition I got. I read the instructions and seems to be vary simple to do. I will bee sending you a PM.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14217-electronic-conversion-for-most-mallory-v-8-distributors.aspx
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14072-black-40000-volt-coil.aspx
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What worries me is that is says "fits most" and mine being so old....well, you know. Its considered a "flat top" from what I've seen.
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What worries me is that is says "fits most" and mine being so old....well, you know. Its considered a "flat top" from what I've seen.
I know what you mean. I agree with you on that. I kinda took a chance on it myself. Ended up not having to so anything anyway :) Didn't know whether to be glad that It was done already or upset that I just spend the money on something I didn't need...Lesson learned.
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Hey Shrom,
was hoping to make it over there this weekend, just didn't have time! Busy, busy. Sounds like things came together for you pretty well. I've got my carbs back on and just about ready to fire for the year, so I should be all systems go when you're ready for a river test. Gotta go take the kids fishing... guess I'll work on my stuff later! ;D
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Wex, or anyone else. I am almost confident it is pre alpha but not 100% I looked it up for the outdrive gasket but the one I ordered worked for many diff models and it worked fine for mine. :) But i don't think the impeller kits are as universal as a gasket are. Could you tell me what out drive I have? I need to know for ordering a new impeller kit. and maybe where you order your parts from. Wex do you just go to Conestoga marine for these parts?
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Yup, I did, I just gave them the year and that it was the 898 combo. It is a pre alpha, but not to worry, just tell Dennis (don't bother with anyone else in there) and he'll fix you up, that guy is a walking boat encyclopedia! The kit is like most where you will have left over parts, so it is very possible that the same kit works with the alphas (I'm sure someone here knows) but they can look it up and get the right thing. I did replace the impeller and housing last year on that, but I'm like you and like to be safe. I will tell you I had a heck of a time getting it all lined up with the shift rod in the right location. Things are beginning to get a little loose and sloppy in there, must have had it off 3 or 4 times trying to get it lined up the way it originally was. I usually get it the first time, not so lucky with that one. If I remember correctly, I had to keep it trimmed down as far as possible just before I slid it the rest of the way in (and cranked the nose of the trailer all the way down). If you want to do it some evening or next weekend, I'd be glad to help, hard to wrestle that thing up in and keep it all lined up.
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Thanks Wex,
I do remember you saying that you had replaced it when you got it last year. But The way I look at it is. Sense I have done all this work to it over the winter, why not be sure and replace it. That way If I do have any over heating. I can rule that out as being the problem. I am going to pick one up this week hopefully and get it in this weekend. I'll keep you posted. I want to have it water tested before May! ;D Of coarse that is only if the weather permits it.
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Was able to get the hatch back on today. It's official, The Name is on the boat ;D
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Looks sweet! All done, now what are you going to do? ;D
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Have you had it out on the water yet? 8)
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Looks sweet! All done, now what are you going to do? ;D
he's gonna take it out on the Susquehanna River and smoke my sorry a$$, that's what! ;D lookin' good Shrom! Now, if it ever stops raining and the river goes down, maybe we can get these babies out for a shakedown run.
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Looks sweet! All done, now what are you going to do? ;D
thanks. It is not all done yet. But close to it. However it is ready for a test run once the weather warms up and stops raining. And like Steve said when the river stops flooding...all little stuff from now on. I think will need to adjust the carb a little seems like it is running rich. Anyone have any pointers? I did not get it out on the water yet. I have off work Friday and hoping the weather will be clear so I. An possibly test her out.
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That cover looks great man! Glad it all worked out the way it did. And I feel your pain when it comes to the crappy weather - the local MN weather guys are claiming we might get up to 6 inches of snow this week. Obviously I'm thrilled.
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That cover looks great man! Glad it all worked out the way it did. And I feel your pain when it comes to the crappy weather - the local MN weather guys are claiming we might get up to 6 inches of snow this week. Obviously I'm thrilled.
More snow? Wow! I know I was hoping to to be out on the water by the of this month ??? Theirs still a chance but vary slim. Thanks for the compliment on the cover. All i need to do now is make receiver brackets for those new latches I put on ( hope to do this week.) and the hatch portion will be done for now. I had thoughts of putting gas struts on it to hold it up. But I think I have changed my mind. I decided that I want to make it open the other way. So next that's next winters project. ;D
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I was also hoping to get out but we got 8.1 inches of snow on Friday. I also went to the lake this weekend and the ice is only about a foot off shore. So it will be a while till I get a test run. :'(
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I decided that I want to make it open the other way. So next that's next winters project.
That's a good idea Shrom. Or maybe design it so that the whole cover just comes off. I like having it open from the rear when on the trailer but when in the water it would be nicer to have it open from the front.
Hood looks great BTW! 8) Let us know how it runs once you get it in the water. Have you picked up a new prop(s) to try out yet?
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I decided that I want to make it open the other way. So next that's next winters project.
That's a good idea Shrom. Or maybe design it so that the whole cover just comes off. I like having it open from the rear when on the trailer but when in the water it would be nicer to have it open from the front.
Hood looks great BTW! 8) Let us know how it runs once you get it in the water. Have you picked up a new prop(s) to try out yet?
That was my thoughts too. The way I look at it is when I'm on the water I want to be able to access it easily so to have it open back would be real nice. Yes it is nice having open the way it is now for land, but the really the time you want it to be most convent is when you on the water worrying on where the current is taking you are trying to fix whatever the problem might be...
I did have thoughts on like you said about the whole cover coming off... hmm could probably be easily done if I just add two more of the new latches I got up at the bench seat. I have all summer to think of that. ;D
Also I have no picked up any new props yet to try out. I have kinda been holding out till I run it first. but if a good deal comes around I might not be able to pass it up.
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Weather has not let up yet and the river is too high to get out anyway. But I did today back it in to the water and run it to check the temp running off the water pump. I did not have any overheating problems....infact my gauge showed no temp at all. I was checking the engine temp with my volt meter that has a temp reader on it, Just as a double check. Never overheated. Gauge is new, sending unit new, did tests on everything from dash back to the engine. All is in working order. I'm thinking something in my t-stat housing is weird ??? better running cold then hot right? lol I'm going to keep doing some more research, and probably just keep my eye out on a new style t-stat. Not necessarily "new".
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Hey Shrom I think I'd get that temperature gage working before you take it out. Or if it's working but the motor is not coming up to operating temp that can't be good either. Hate to see something bad happen after all the work you put in it this past winter.
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Hey Shrom I think I'd get that temperature gauge working before you take it out. Or if it's working but the motor is not coming up to operating temp that can't be good either. Hate to see something bad happen after all the work you put in it this past winter.
Agreed, after doing some more searching, I just decided that I better just spend the money and buy the new style thermostat and see if that will fix my problem. I think I'm missing an internal part to my t-stat housing that is allowing the water to just flow through all the time.
In 2004 this engine was rebuilt. (I think their should be a sleeve in there, and they must have took it out) Not only was it a test of temp check, but I was able to check and make sure nothing leaked ;D All good! I also made the receiver mounts for my new latches last week, got them installed.
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Hey your latches look great! Like how they are nice and flush w/hood.
I think that's a smart move going w/new style thermostat housing. Was money well spent on Shaun's(Grinder) boat so I don't know why yours would be any different. Pretty sure Alex(Orange Fever) went that route also w/his CV23.
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I think that's a smart move going w/new style thermostat housing. Was money well spent on Shaun's(Grinder) boat so I don't know why yours would be any different. Pretty sure Alex(Orange Fever) went that route also w/his CV23.
Kip nailed it - I just got mine in the mail today and it's already botled on, hoses clamped and ready to run ;D
I feel ya though man - I didn't want to spend the extra coin for the new one but it solves any problem that might arise using the original t-stat, and it really cleans up the front of the engine!
I'll have pics posted of the finished product once it stops raining here...at least it's not snowing, right?
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Getting the boat out tomorrow for a cruise. Does anyone know what the red line is for my boat? 4500?
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Alright guys Had the boat out today. Runs rich needs a little tuning. but ran! lol
Ok now for the bad news...I was cruising along and looked at my gauges and 0 oil pressure showing. So natrually I turned it off right away!
Anyone have any thoughts? I really hope it is just a bad gauge or sending unit, or wiring.
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To test the gauge disconnect the wire at the sender and touch it to engine ground while the key is on, the gauge should react and pin at the high end of the scale. If it does then the gauge and wiring is fine. Try replacing the sender. If after replacing it you still have no oil pressure then the fault is in the engine but I suspect the sender is the problem.
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Craig - I'd look to see if the sender got damaged or the wiring disconnected when the motor was pulled last winter. If the engine sounded OK at cruise w/zero oil presssure then I'd agree that it is the gage or something with sending unit/wiring. Check that the needle on the gage bumps when you turn the ignition on. Doesn't neccessarily mean the gage is good but at least you know it is getting power.
There should be an Orange decal on one of your valve covers that has the Max RPM with a bunch of other information.
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Craig
Look at my owners manual for my cvx and it listed the 305 at 4200 to 4600 rpm.
It also listed a minimum oil pressure at idle of 4psi
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Craig
Look at my owners manual for my cvx and it listed the 305 at 4200 to 4600 rpm.
It also listed a minimum oil pressure at idle of 4psi
Thanks , I kinda thought it was in that range for the RPM and wow 4 psi? That seems low. I am going to run some tests on the gauge and the sending unit. But the thing that got me is that I opened the valve cover cap to check if there was oil splashing and I saw no oil movement. So I kinda think it is mechanical. ??? If I find out that The oil pump is good and my bottom end is the problem, then Steve has a 350 that I will throw in it. lol
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hey Schrom ... shoot me a phone call 405-810-8044
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Gauge tested out good, I took the distributor out and made a tool to put in its place so i could turn the oil pump by hand without running the engine. Before I turns it by hand I also pulled the oil sending unit off. This way I could see the oil pumping out through the hole. Sure enough Just turning the oil pump by hand it pumped oil out the hole. Then for giggles threaded on a mechanical oil gauge and spun it with a hand drill, showed 15 psi. So I pretty sure it is getting oil pressure and its just my sending unit. Purchased one today but probably will not get it on till next week.
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Craig good to hear it isn't anything too serious. Considering how hard marine engines work I kinda thought you would have heard the motor knocking, rattling, ticking, something, if it was actually running zero oil pressure. Got my new parts yesterday, they look awesome! 8)
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Craig good to hear it isn't anything too serious. Considering how hard marine engines work I kinda thought you would have heard the motor knocking, rattling, ticking, something, if it was actually running zero oil pressure. Got my new parts yesterday, they look awesome! 8)
That is what I figured too, Should be back on the water in know time. I assume when you say your new parts. You are talking about the hatch screws? Glad they got to you! Can't wait to see them on the boat. The whole process was exciting to do. ;D
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OK guys put new oil pressure unit on and ran it...after warmed up 5 psi at idle and 20-30 psi at 2000 rpms. Engine has no abnormal noise or knocking. Does this seem right psi range?
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Sounds right to me me!!!!
Mine will run 5-10psi at idle warmed up higher when cold.
At high rpm 3500 will run 40 to 45psi
As stated before mercrusier manual is 5psi minimum.
Jeff
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Sounds right to me me!!!!
Mine will run 5-10psi at idle warmed up higher when cold.
At high rpm 3500 will run 40 to 45psi
As stated before mercrusier manual is 5psi minimum.
Jeff
Great then going to run her! ;D
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Good to hear it was just the sender and nothing actually wrong w/motor Craig. Although You definitely had the right idea about just dropping a 5.7 in it, if it had been something major! ;).....LOL
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Good to hear it was just the sender and nothing actually wrong w/motor Craig. Although You definitely had the right idea about just dropping a 5.7 in it, if it had been something major! ;).....LOL
Yeah me too...saves me more work. Even though I was kinda excited about the idea of a 350 in there, I have been throwing around the idea of getting that 350 from Steve anyway, and maybe build a stroker out of it. and run what I have till its done. You got your Hatch screws on?
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Just did a test fit, haven't installed yet as I want to find a retainer so that they can't fall out of the hood when it is opened. A stroker would be really cool.
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About ready to leave for another test run at the river... Just put "new" (to me) rims on the trailer
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and once again 0 oil pressure after a while of driving it. ???
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Just talked to Shrom, this is looking more like a 260hp upgrade all the time... we're gonna put the 350 out of the Scimitar on the stand and tear it down just to see (supposedly recently rebuilt), and if it looks good, there will likely be a few more ponies under Lowrider's engine cover.
We'll keep ya posted...
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At this point my 305 will become my mooring anchor at the lake. Good conversation piece when people are watching me drop it in. ;D
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Good visual on oil circulation and pressure with a seperate gauge....whats going on ??? ??? ???
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Good visual on oil circulation and pressure with a seperate gauge....whats going on ??? ??? ???
After talking to Steve ( Wexrocks) He brought up a good point. We think was found the problem. Not sure if you guys remember me saying about not showing any temp earlier in the forum. Well I fixed that problem and that is when the oil pressure started giving me problems once warmed up.
I'm going to start with the Temp problem, I realized that the whole problem with that was the engine never was getting hot, That being why the gauge not showing any temp. So I pulled the T-state house off and looked to see how everything flowed....Its was missing a sleeve in there that blocks the water flow till the t-state opened up. In turn never allowing the engine to heat up.
So to solve that problem I went ahead and purchase a new style t-state housing to go along with my manifold upgrade. Problem solved ;D It now showed temp.....But Now when the engine is heating up the oil pressure is going down to nothing. Steve and I believe that my bottom end is warn out and has took much clearences. So till the engine heats up it will show pressure.
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So Craig are you going to run it and see how long it lasts or just stick the 350 in it? What kind of oil pressure was it running last season? Seems funny that it would just drop to zero over the winter. The 350 transplant will be a fun project regardless. The difference between the 305 & 350 in these boats performance wise, is night and day. I only needed one ride in Jeff's CVX18 to figure that out! ;D
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well, The pressure last season was near 40 psi, great pressure. But like I said that was when it was running cold all the time last season. LOL When I pulled the engine out over the winter I changed the oil/filter. For this season I am going to put thicker oil in it and run it and see what that does. If it has better pressure with the t stat in, Ill run it that way. Otherwise I will pull the T-stat and run it cold with good oil pressure. The 350 may or may not turn into a 383 stroker...I'll let that one be a surprise for when I try to come to the meet next year. I'm hoping to get one more season out of the 305.
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Just a little update on what is gong on with Lowrider, I changed to thicker oil and put the 2brrl back on for this season. The 4brrl needs rebuilt and I just don't have the time for that right now. So I am going to run her the rest of the season back to stock and do the 350 swap and 4brrl in the fall.
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So I am going to run her the rest of the season back to stock and do the 350 swap and 4brrl in the fall.
Craig that's what I plan on doing with mine next winter. Last season w/305.