Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: David CVX-16 on April 12, 2012, 04:16:57 PM
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You all know I have had my 1971 V-153 since I bought it new and it has provided many memories, about 13,000 miles and low maintenance. In the fall of 2010 I purchased a 1988 Mercury 115 HP with the thought of switching out the present 1974 115 HP Merc. Then thought maybe about buying a CVX-16 for the 1988 Mercury. About three false starts with that.
Purchased this 1987 Glastron/Carlson CVX-16 from John in Ramsey, MN. He was the second owner since 1999 and used it at his cabin in Willmar, MN. John takes very good care of his boats, and vehicles as I determined while talking to him on the telephone.
The boat is just gorgeous, floor solid, transom solid, carpet in good shape, no dock rash, gauges work, upholstery in good shape, metal flake shiny, etc. John wanted to pass his toy onto someone who would take good care of it. I think John also figured out I like to take good care of my boat as I gave his some pictures of the V-153.
There are a few things that need attention, but nothing big. Plans are to run it with the 115 HP Johnson to get a feel of Johnsons, as I have always had Mercurys. The V-153 will remain in storage near Northfield as I work on this boat.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16013r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16004r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16007r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16001r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16008r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16006r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16003r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/87CVX16012r.jpg)
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WOW !
IT LOOK'S LIKE BRAND NEW !
SWEET ...
Good score Dave !
Did ya get a test drive ?
No need for a buff and shine on that one !
Can I go for a ride ?
Guess this makes you and Doug J/E buddys ... LOL
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Great looking boat Dave...
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Congrats David, beautiful colors and condition. I'm always curious when I see one of those foils bolted to the OB motor on a CVX16 as mine had absolutely no use for one.
Sweet find, now go out and enjoy it. Let's see who's faster, you or Gregg.
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I always liked the red ones.
Does the hull number say 1987? The upholstry and gelcoat pattern on the deck look like 1986 to me and I believe 1985 was the last year for that 115.
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Wow is right! Looks cherry David. Nice find! Color's reminiscent of the 'Sunset Red' on the C500. Good lookin' boat.
However I am perplexed by your sudden conversion to the white side ... Always thought you were a hardcore Merc man? Heh heh heh
Hey for what it's worth it'd be real easy to make that 115 a 140 ...
Ya I'd lose the whale tail'n getcha a true tracker, raise the motor a hole'n hang a 23 Lightspeed on it. Probly run upper 50's.
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Congrats David!
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The boat number ends in 1987 and the Glastron literature below from 1987 also indicates it is that year. The motor's skeg is bent to one side on the leading edge so the lower unit will go to the prop man for straightening, taking off the hydro fin, filling the four holes, and repainting. The present prop is an OMC stainless steel 17" pitch, fine for pulling loads, but for speed, will need about a 21" or 22" pitch. I have a Quicksilver Laser II 22" and a PowerTech 21" with universal hubs to try. If they do not work, a Raker 22" stainless steel.
Will wait and see if the Johnson or 88' Mercury end up on the CVX-16.
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David
Red is one of my favorite colors. Congrats on the purchase.
My tongue still hurts from biting it for the last month and a half.
Will there be a sale on small hub Mercury props this month?
Good luck cannot wait to see you on the river will have to get together soon.
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Sounds like a good prop line up Dave. Might be a lil overanxious but think I'd run the Laser first? Boat looks great!
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WOW!!
I think yer gonna like that. I do.
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The boat number ends in 1987 and the Glastron literature below from 1987 also indicates it is that year.
The Hull number is the definitive answer. Brochure descriptions are sometimes incorrect. Yours may be an early build. The 87 brochure shot shows differences to your boat. The headrests, blue/gray stripe below the red metalflake and red pinstripes on the deck are 1986 style features. The 87 photo boat has no headrests, white pinstripes and no blue/gray gelcoat stripe.
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Excellent eye for detail. Thank you. All I know is that it is simply gorgeous. Remember on auto literature the words to the effect that the car manufactorer had the right to make changes and that the actual car may not be the same as the brochure picture.
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Nice catch Dave! Great little boat, sold my CVX 16 last year after owning it for 8 years. Did a total resto and really appreciated the way it handled.
You are going to have lots of fun with that beauty!
Aaron
(http://img.tapatalk.com/02ce0072-ab83-818e.jpg)
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Glastron had plenty of brochure details that didn't match production models. They had to do their photo shoots well before the model change over to have any chance of getting literature ready for dealer shows and fall ordering.
The Intimidator in the 86 brochure is clearly a 1985 model and the same boat as in the 85 brochure. I figure that they either planned to eliminate the model and changed their minds, or they failed to get a picture of the new model. There are two different 1965 brochures with cover photos from the same location but the boats are in different positions. The new V-164 is called a "Sportster" in one and "Futura 500" in the other.
I always view the brochure as a guide. The HIN is more likely to be correct. Same thing with the outboards, but the OMC model number guide doesn't list a 115 after 1985 until I think 1990. That also led me to suspect your boat was a 86 since a one year hold over made more sense than a 2 year hold over.
Your new boat looks to be in excellent condition and the red metalflake looks great.
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WHA???? I'm not sure I believe my eyes. I guess you hang around this crowd long enough and you're going to end up with a carlson.
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Sweet boat.
I love the red.
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Awesome Dave! That is a beauty! That Red really pops. Welcome to the CV(X)16 club. Do we know Jon or this boat??? I had a feeling you were looking for a Carlson for that 115. I’d say if that old Johnson runs good just leave it on there.
So when’s the next prop testing day?
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Absolutely gorgeous boat David, congrats! Hope you enjoy it, I have a hunch you will. ;)
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I think I know that boat!, David did the previous owner have a cabin on Big Kandoyhi lake do you know? South of Wilmer about 15 minutes? I think he owns the cabin down the road from my Uncle.
Nice ride if it is the same, heck even if it isn't
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taking off the hydro fin, filling the four holes, and repainting.
I know you well enough that I figured no way was the foil staying on. Your boat reminds me on the one down in TN that was for sale a few years back.
If you look at the Carlson marketing brochures you couldn't get a CVX18 in 1979 in blue either, but I got one! ;)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/CVX16c.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/CVX16b.jpg)
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Verry nice, your going to love the Carlson and speaking from a Johnson-Evinrude guy I bet you will like that too.
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bambam, Yes, I'm sure it is the neighbor of your uncle.
Jason, we can have a combined Mercury/Johnson prop testing day
David
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we can have a combined Mercury/Johnson prop testing day
Ya, kinda cool how interchangeable hubs have changed the game. Still bettin' on your Laser btw ...
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Doug, someone has a rebuilt 22" Raker stainless steel for sale at a low price. I usually would not buy a rebuilt, but the price warrants the risk. Picture of the prop.
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Looks good from here David. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe a Raker is purty much the same prop as a Lightspeed. Just a more 'polished' version. Might be wrong again but it looks like somebody sawed the diffuser off'n that one ...?
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Doug, the Lightspeed and the Laser II have the same configuration (blade shape and size), and you are right that the Lightspeed has a satin finish and the Laser II a more expensive polished finish. The Lightspeed may not have vent holes also. The Lightspeed is a Quicksilver product and can be sold by anyone, and the Laser II just to Mercury dealers. They do the same with oil, Quicksilver and Mercury Premium Plus oil - same product but different sales channels. The Raker is a OMC product and the blades are shaped differently than the Laser II's, but both props are known for their bow lift abilities.
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Read the Johnson Outboard Owners - Operators Manual this morning. It contains alot of valuable information we sometimes take for granted - lubrication points, test for audible horn for overheating and oil injection system not working, spark plug selection for low speeds and high speeds, lower unit gear ratio of 2 to 1, prop selection specs and prop numbers, procedures for bleeding oil lines, maintenance items, RPM limit (5,500), and horsepower is 115 at prop shaft, 301 pounds. Appears the Johnson is a 1984 model.
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David......glad to see it home........I have service manuels for the 115 if you need them.........anxious to see how it runs........
Retro
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Dave ... Your CVX is giving me some serious boat envy !
Only way to make my self feel better is to tease you about the Johson motor ... LOL
Is VRO still on motor ? Good write up on VRO ...
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html (http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html)
HOW TO REPAIR YOUR JOHNSON-EVINRUDE ...
http://www.maxrules.com/VROrepair.htm (http://www.maxrules.com/VROrepair.htm)
http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html (http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html)
There's 1983 & 1986 Evinrude brochures here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2928.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2928.0)
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VERY nice David. Congrats! I miss all kinds of stuff when not frequenting the Forum.
Sweet to say the least. The speed bar keeps getting higher with this club.
Now, get rid of those over the hulls straps!
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Service manual for what year 115 retro?
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We were a Johnson dealer through the 80's I should have everything covered from Ci models to ce models......are you looking for something specific? I have about 300 factory manuels total. Perhaps I am wrong, I thought Davids new motor was a 1980 something (the model number will provide the year)
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I thought Davids new motor was a 1980 something (the model number will provide the year)
Ya me too. Looks like it's wearing '87 (or thereabouts) colors.
Yo RP would ya happen to have a wiring diagram for a '83 Johnson 140?
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" Appears the Johnson is a 1984 model "
From page two of this thread ...
Retro ..
When I scanned all our family photos and stuff ... I would scan 50 pictures a nght for a few weeks, didn't seem so bad as sitting down and scanning for 8 hours straight ever night.
Just a thought, if you want to scan a Johnson/Evinrude repair manual ...
Maybe Dane could put it into Adobe PDF and I could upload it to Skydrive so every one has access to it ...
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Appears the Johnson is a 1984 model
Oops! My bad. Missed it.
Another bad is that means the motor's crank & not propshaft rated HP. No offense! Gorgeous boat either way David. Congrats
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Doug, OMC switched from powerhead rated to prop rated in 1984 with the introduction of the VRO. The outboard manual that came with the Johnson says that the RPM limit is 5,500, horsepower is 115 at prop shaft, and weights 301 pounds.
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David, The boat looks great....I just drove by Johanna in case you were out for a morning spin......with the engine at 301 lbs. do you know the weight of the hull dry or loaded? Do you think it might be able to swing a 23 pitch ? Have you had it wet yet?
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1985 & 1986 CVX16 720lbs.
1987 & 1988 CVX16 750lbs.
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Don, before the boat is lauched, I want to do two things to the boat, touch up the fiberglass on the bottom of the hull by the transom, and straighten a bend in the skeg and remove the hydrofin. Those two items may take a week or more. Do not think the motor will swing a 23" pitch. I am lining up the presently owned Mercury Laser II 22", a OMC Raker 22", and a OMC SST II 21".
Had to work Saturday and today doing tax return preparation, but that will be over this Tuesday and then I can do the more important stuff.
Looking forward to prop testing and river runs with the Glastron group.
David
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Dave ...
Is the VRO still hooked up ?
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Plan to keep the VRO, but to make sure no air or water in the system.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/CVX-16Interior003r.jpg)
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I've been running VRO systems for years never had any problems; my 84 Johnson 140 was one of the first ones they made. As I recall you can insert the key in the controls and test the low oil and over temp horn.
Now I'm running a 97 Johnson 115, it has been trouble free and you burn about 1/2 the oil. The newer Johnson's have the System Check System and give you more warnings but the controls and gauges are expensive.
Joe
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The owners manual on the 1984 Johnson 115 tells how to test for audibles. Something like inserting an extra key to short something and then another test for the engine overheat. I'll have to read the manual and test the audibles before getting out in the water.
The VRO system is almost a necessity with the 18 gallon gas tank under the deck. If it were not for the VRO system, each filling of gas into the bow tank would have to be premixed in, say, a 6 gallon can and then poured in.
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Nah, I just pour oil in with the gas david...it sloshes around and mixes on your way to the lake/river from the gas station.
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For what it's worth VRO doesn't deserve it's bad reputation Works well when it's working. But boy I' rather not think about what might happen if'n it stops working
Y'know oil injection is all well'n good 'til a few seconds after it stops being injected ...?
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All the VRO failures I've come across were with ones that failed to pump fuel. Also, if you let them sit long enough without being used they will often flood with oil which totally saturates the lines and carbs with nothing but oil. The only time I've seen one that didn't pump oil it was because water had gotten into the oil tank and it infiltrated the VRO.
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Plan to keep the VRO, but to make sure no air or water in the system.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/CVX-16Interior003r.jpg)
Those seat will sure hold you in place when whipping around! I think Jamie has fell between the seats in the CV16 a few times with the way I drive!!
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Ya those are sweeet! I'd kill for a pair like that. Looks really good David. Nice find.
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Had the day off from work today and dug into the CVX-16. White Bear Boat Works is going to touch up the end of the hull at the middle of the boat, making a sharp edge where some fiberglass is missing at the end corner and matching the gelcoat, took off the lower unit and brought it over to the prop and alum welding man to either straighten out the skeg or replace it, bought a water impeller and housing unit, and sold the 22" Mercury chopper stainless steel prop to someone running a 450 pound Checkmate with a 150 HP Merc. Even with the sale, spent more money than I took in.
Had trouble getting the lower unit off so called a Johnson outboard marine repair shop in East Bethel and took the boat and motor over to Scott to look at. He was most helpful. I had forgotten one bolt, and then there is a metal rod connection from the lower unit into the engine area for shifting gears that is disconnected by a bolt under the carbs under the engine hood. Scoot had alot of good advice. The Johnson motor has been factory modified (slapped a "work done" skicker on the motor) to accomodate poorer gas by fitting in a thicker head gasket. Okay to run regular, but I will run BP premium. Also advice about spark plugs and a better route for the speedometer hookup off the engine. I may have discovered my new Johnson mechanic.
Still alot left to do.
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OMC's love NGKs
Get that compression killing gasket out of there!!
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OMC's love NGKs
'Specially NGK Irridiums.
Ya Dave it's difficult to yank the gearcase with the shiftrod bolt, and I'm guessing the lil bolt by the torque tab? still attatched. Been there. Heh heh heh
Welcome to the world of OMCs my friend. Whole new ball game for a Merc guy ain't it. Don't fret. The rules are basically the same but the players wear different equipment ...?
Carry on.
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It is a different world, different engineering thoughts and ways of doing things. Can't say which is better. Both Mercury and Johnson are the leaders in outboard motors with strong engineering and testing facilities. Alot is what you are used to.
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Can't say which is better
Agreed! It's been my hard earned experience that one is better off remaining neutral whilst discussing that particular issue ...
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??? OMC's love NGKs
I guess that's a matter of opinion. Six different mechanics at 5 different dealers/shops all said to use Champion plugs. Both of mine ran better when I put Champions back in. Go figure.
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Picked up skeg today from the prop man. Wow, one day turnaround. He was able to straighten the skeg and fill four former hydrofoil holes. Now to sand out the rough areas and bring to the paint man.
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Dave
Was hoping to stop by and see your new CVX last Sat. but you were working ...
Going to Jeff's this Sat. .. so maybe two Sat. from now ?
Don't think I can wait until we get them on the water to see it ... LOL
I'll bring the Merc mounting instructions/ template ... Just incase you don't like the Johnson ...
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Yo David does that motor have the built in pee toe? If it does there'll be a 1/8" hole 'bout 2" above the propshaft, drilled/cast into the leading edge of the gearcase. Comes out just under the top. From what I'm told they actually work purty good with mechanical speedometers. I got a GPS so the point is moot. Went ahead'n cleaned the passage as best I could'n plugged it with caulk. Wasn't real hip on our salty water circulating through a lil worm hole in the fronta my gearcase?
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??? OMC's love NGKs
I guess that's a matter of opinion. Six different mechanics at 5 different dealers/shops all said to use Champion plugs. Both of mine ran better when I put Champions back in. Go figure.
Well you know what they say about opinions ... It is my opinion, and experience, that NGK Irridiums perform the best on my old crossflow motors. Were your 6 outa 5 mechanics model specific?
No offense! Not tryin' to start a fight. Heck I grew up on Champeens? But these NGKs are the cat's a** for me personally.
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Doug, yes there is a hole right above the bulge above the gearcase where the water goes in and it is connected to the speedometer rubber cable right at the top of the lower unit, above the second horizonal plate. Of course I broke it off the top connection in the process of disconnecting everything off the lower unit so bought a new connection ($6). Good you reminded me about the lower hole. That will have to be covered along with the upper hole before the lower unit is painted. The lower unit seems to have very blunt leading edges on the lower unit from skeg all the way up. Am going to sharpen the edges from top to bottom. Tomorrows project.
The 22" Raker and 21" SST II are on their way. The 17" aluminlum prop the motor came with is for sale on Craigslist.
Gregg - come on over anytime to see the boat. It is going to White Bear Boat Works soon for bottom repair.
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The lower unit seems to have very blunt leading edges on the lower unit from skeg all the way up. Am going to sharpen the edges from top to bottom
Good thinkin' Dave. Mine are purty sharp now too. Pity the po Manatee that gets in our way ...
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No offense taken. Both my 1996 88 SPL and the 1977 115 had NGK's in them when I got them. I brought the plugs from the 88 to the local dealer to get a match set and the three mechanics in the back all said don't run the NGK's in that motor. They always use the Champions in all the V4's from the 70's up to the 90's.
When I got the CVX I had an independent rebuild the carbs and go through it to make sure everything was OK and he said the same thing. Use only champion plugs in the V4's.
Where do you get the NGK irridiums? I'd be willing to try them to see if they perform any better.
Looks like I can get them for the 88 but not the 115. Just shows a traditional plug for that motor.
??? OMC's love NGKs
I guess that's a matter of opinion. Six different mechanics at 5 different dealers/shops all said to use Champion plugs. Both of mine ran better when I put Champions back in. Go figure.
Well you know what they say about opinions ... It is my opinion, and experience, that NGK Irridiums perform the best on my old crossflow motors. Were your 6 outa 5 mechanics model specific?
No offense! Not tryin' to start a fight. Heck I grew up on Champeens? But these NGKs are the cat's a** for me personally.
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The lower unit had a very brunt leading edge which I am tapering. Probably will add 1-2 MPH. Notice the before and in process difference.
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I have heard a Lot of people say that the nose mod on a lower gearcase has no affect until you get speeds over 70mph .. some say 80mph .. Bull Corn ! when you clean up the turbulence of the water to the root of the prop blades it become's more efficient at any speeds, I've proved that, and it does improve low end performance as well, you may can notice in this pic that I have raised the point of the cone a 1/2 higher than the prop shaft, for trimmed up performance, and it Did increase the speed, but it also improved the low end performance by helping eleimnate the prop "grabbing air" in turns, and improved the hole shot as well.
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Where do you get the NGK irridiums?
Advance Auto Parts has the best price 'round here. Think the batch for the new motor were $6.99 a pop. B7HIX or BR7HIX(resistor) should work in either of your motors. I wouldn't hesitate to try a fine wire irridium plug from Champion. If'n they made one ...
edit. All the go fast guys say to use Denso plugs in crossflows btw.
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I have heard a Lot of people say that the nose mod on a lower gearcase has no affect until you get speeds over 70mph .. some say 80mph .. Bull Corn ! when you clean up the turbulence of the water to the root of the prop blades it become's more efficient at any speed
For evidence of this check out Suzuki's new counter rotating 300hp gearcase. Looks like it rolled outa Bob's Machine Shop. Has two water intakes, one below the nose'n one above. They say this improves both waterflow & (duh) gearcase cooling. Which is probly a good thing if they claim you can run it wide open in reverse ...?
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Sharpened the leading edges of the skeg in preparation for the painting by an auto body shop. Note the one before picture and the after pictures.
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Building up a collection of Johnson props for testing. This is a Raker 13 1/2" diameter x 22" pitch. This is an OMC performance prop considered fast with an excellent design. Bought used from Nebraska. Sharpened the blades, touched up some nicks, and buffed it out. Worth a try on the water.
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Looks vaguely familiar Dave. Nice find'n nice job on the clean up. I bet that'll be a top ranking performer.
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Hope to be done in two weeks. Lower unit is being painted, fiberglass being repaired at end of bottom pad where it meets the transom, and other minor issues. Right now the boat is in Doug (Sir Malcolm) Campbell weight reduction racing form - passenger seat out and engine hood off. LOL
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I took this picture a couple days ago and just realized I didn't post it, no problem with the speedo pickup being in the leg.
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Hope to be done in two weeks. Lower unit is being painted, fiberglass being repaired at end of bottom pad where it meets the transom, and other minor issues. Right now the boat is in Doug (Sir Malcolm) Campbell weight reduction racing form - passenger seat out and engine hood off. LOL
Ehh leave that crap outa there David. Just heavy 'lipstick' imo ...
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I have heard a Lot of people say that the nose mod on a lower gearcase has no affect until you get speeds over 70mph .. some say 80mph .. Bull Corn ! when you clean up the turbulence of the water to the root of the prop blades it become's more efficient at any speed
For evidence of this check out Suzuki's new counter rotating 300hp gearcase. Looks like it rolled outa Bob's Machine Shop. Has two water intakes, one below the nose'n one above. They say this improves both waterflow & (duh) gearcase cooling. Which is probly a good thing if they claim you can run it wide open in reverse ...?
[/quote.....My memory is that Volvo 270/280 drives can be standard or counter rotating by switching the attachment position of the shift linkage.....same bearings and gears for either direction.....the problem with wide open in reverse is that the back of the boat is flat, doesn't cut through the waves so well...LOL
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Have three Johnson props now. The black ones are stainless steel teflon coated - great as long as you do not hit anything in the water or run through sand. Note the wide variances in prop shape, even though all are 21" or 22" pitch. There are going to be winners and there are going to be losers.
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My '77 Erude 115 couldn't push the "22 Raker to max rpms. 4900 was about the max. I currently run a 12 3/4 x 21 SST and it will push it upwards or 5100 rpms and about 48 mph with two adults and a full tank of gas. I want to try a 19 or 20 raker.
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With all the new J/E props, your gonna need to sell off some of your Merc props to make room ...
LOL
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The prop collection is now 13, 10 for the Mercury and 3 for the Johnson. But have sold 3 props this year - Mercury Chopper 22", Mercury 21" bronze, and Johnson 17" aluminum that came with the motor to make room for these three. Even made $8 per hour profit in polishing time when selling the Mercury Chopper 22".
It could be worse (or better?) - 13 Glastron boats.
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My '77 Erude 115 couldn't push the "22 Raker to max rpms. 4900 was about the max. I currently run a 12 3/4 x 21 SST and it will push it upwards or 5100 rpms and about 48 mph with two adults and a full tank of gas. I want to try a 19 or 20 raker.
The '84 Johnson on the CVX -16 has the 115 HP rating at the prop shaft which should help. One of the props above is the 12 3/4 x 21 SST and the other is a 13 7/8 x 21 SST. Max RPM's is 5,500 which I hope to obtain with one of the props.
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Going to need a 18 wheeler to get all the props to the lake on prop testing day ... LOL
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stainless steel teflon coated - great as long as you do not hit anything in the water or run through sand
Ya I never quite grasped the purpose of putting paint/teflon on a prop. Some dumbazz'll just scrape it off ... I kinda like the blade configuration of the one on the far left though.
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10 for the Mercury and 3 for the Johnson
10 to 3 is discriminating ...
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10 to 3 is discriminating ...
Yea, but you gotta give David major credit for being open minded and buying a boat with an OMC motor Doug! You know most of the Merc guys we know would have either passed on the deal (and missed out on a beautiful boat), or ripped it off right away to replace it with one of those black motors. Just poking fun guys, don't get in an uproar please. :-*
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Both companys have there pluses and minises ...
But in the end 115 HP is 115 HP no matter who makes it ...
Dave has the choise of Johnson or Merc !
Doug and Daves MPH war is over ... Theres a new "King of the Hill" !
... LOL
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/cv16031.jpg)
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I gave the former owner of the boat, John, a picture of the 1988 Mercury 115 HP on the outboard motor stand, and he knows I might install it someday on his boat. I also gave him the link to this thread. But his major wish was that the boat be maintained and kept up. I promised to bring it as close as possible to perfection.
The old Glastron/Carlson site by Tom Brown also debated whether to put a Mercury or a Johnson on a CVX-16. Pros for the Johnson were its lower profile and the color blends in nicely with the boat. Believe Tom had a Mercury XR4 150 HP on his boat.
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If there is one guy in this group that can keep a boat in perfect shape for many years you would win the award Dave. I don't think John will be disappointed.
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Both companys have there pluses and minises ...
But in the end 115 HP is 115 HP no matter who makes it ...
Dave has the choise of Johnson or Merc !
Doug and Daves MPH war is over ... Theres a new "King of the Hill" !
... LOL
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/cv16031.jpg)
NO argument here, on either point! ;D
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Doug and Daves MPH war is over
Yes David'n I buried the hatchet a long time ago. Think it was right around when I totalled the V153 ... In addition to being a worthy adversary in a V153, Dave should hands down win the lifetime 'boat maintainer' award. Not to mention prop blade sharpener/polisher of the year. (From what I understand he's a decent Accountant too ...) But I digress.
Funny how the game changes ain't it. Might have one boat one day'n another the next ...?
Oh well. Got the Baja just about dialed in so hopefully I can start tearing back into the C500. Feel guilty in a way for posting Baja pics on a Glastron site. Verges on blasphemy?
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The top speed war is over. The CVX-16 weighs 750 pounds vs. the 630 pounds of the V-153. Plus the V-153 had the gas tanks in the back vs. the CVX's 18 gallons in the bow. Expect to reach about 52 - 54 MPH with the CVX. It will depend on the props. If the SST's and Raker can't make it, will try the Laser II 22", Power Tech 21", and as a last resort, rehub a 21" 2-blade Quicksilver bronze for a Johnson.
Hats off to Doug for his never ending enthusiasm for boats and motors. His level of involvement is unmatched.
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Doug and Daves MPH war is over ... Theres a new "King of the Hill" !
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/cv16031.jpg)
The new King is a GT160 with a shorty Merc. They were so worried they switched boats to avoid me
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
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Yo David. If all else fails ya might wanna try one'a these:
FTEO (for top end only) ain't no good for nuthin else?
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If possible David, I'd like to try the 12 3/4 x 21p I currently have a 13 x 19p and a 13 x 21p the 21p drops rpms too much. My owner's manual lists 12 3/4 x 21p.
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Sean: You are more than welcome to try any of the OMC props that may fit your boat.
Doug: Is that your over-the-hub exhaust SRX?
Jerry: I'm working on a secret Johnson engine project.
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Doug: Is that your over-the-hub exhaust SRX?
Yeah that'd be the one David. Was a 13 3/4 x 23, recently had it reworked to 24. Ain't run it on the 140 yet. Would if I thought I had all the top end bugs worked out but just dont feel quite that confident, yet.
I'd imagine were I to take the bimini off'n run with that prop it'd be good for at least another 3 mph, probly closer to 4. Which would put me just shy of 60. However, considering the way this thing rides at 55.9? I'm not sure I can clench my sphincter that tight anymore ...
edit: Ironically 'fuzz' has the exact same prop with a different part #?!
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Now that you have a tach, you can monitor the RPM's. Just read this morning about OMC racing engines. The killer is not high RPM's, but low RPM's, like 5,200 under a full load ruins them. Sometime though, when everything is fitting together and you get all the bugs out, go for a top speed record. Nothing like posting it on your profile stats on this forum.
There is a new 22" Lightspeed prop with a OMC hub for $139 on e-bay, but that is not enough pitch for you. Good deal though for someone needing that pitch. I have a 22" Mercury Laser II and a friend that has a OMC hub for it.
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I dunno David, this tach situation has got me flabbergasted. Have 2 onboard now. The OMC & tiny tach do actually jive but I remain convinced they both read low. Either that or a gently modded 13 1/2 x 22 Lightspeed is the perfect prop for my boat. Sounds like a good deal on ebay but I already got one. Somebody oughta jump on it. Bleve I paid a heckuva lot more than $139 for mine?!
If'n you believe my tachometer(s) that prop is dang near perfect for all around use on my particular boat, including top end. Right around 3000 rpm @ 30 mph (a magic number btw), 4K @ 40, 53 or 5400 @ 50mph. It's either a dream or a nightmare ...?
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E-bay site for the new Lightspeed 22" with the OMC hub at $140, shipping free:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Stainless-13-1-2-x-22-RH-Propeller-Motor-Prop-QS5142H-/320850745155?hash=item4ab431d743&item=320850745155&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Stainless-13-1-2-x-22-RH-Propeller-Motor-Prop-QS5142H-/320850745155?hash=item4ab431d743&item=320850745155&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr)
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Since I have had good luck using 2-blade bronze props on Mercurys, I was surprised that OMC also made them. But the blades are not cupped and need to be to not lose grip while cornering.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300703029539?item=300703029539&viewitem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300703029539?item=300703029539&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
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Your motor is 13 spline, right David? There are still a few 23 P 2 blade cupped props available at MarineEngine.com, may be too much wheel though?;
#80 — 384140 — 384140 — PROP., 13-3/4 X 21, 2 BL. BRNZ. (1 required per assembly)
0384140
Part replaced by OMC0382766
Unavailable
#80 — 384141 — 384141 — PROP., 13-3/4 X 21, 2 BL. BRNZ. CUPPED (1 required per assembly)
0384141
Part replaced by OMC0389512
Unavailable
#80 — 384138 — 384138 — PROP., 13-3/4 X 23, 2 BL. BRNZ. CUPPED (1 required per assembly)
0384138
Part replaced by OMC0384703
Unavailable
SST V4 23P * 0384703 0384703
0384703 - SST V4 23P
Replaces OEM # 0384703 OEM Part About Johnson Evinrude OMC $150.00 $150.00
3 in stock.
If nothing else, the numbers may help in your search, I know how much you like the two blades! ;D
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Mark, yes, it is a 13 spline shaft. Thanks for the number references and sources. Thinking that a 23" pitch may be too steep. The two 21" pitch and one 22" pitch props I have now will be real world tested on the water for WOT GPS MPH and RPM readings (5,500 or a shade more is ideal) and we will go from there. A member of the Minnesota Glastron group has some OMC props they are willing to let me try.
Going to ask my prop man also if Mercury props can be rehubbed for OMC.
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Going to ask my prop man also if Mercury props can be rehubbed for OMC.
That could be very interesting, let me know what you find out! ;D
I think you're right about the 23 being too much, that's probably why there are still a few around? Just for reference, the '78 CVX-16 in my backyard came with a 17P Stainless (brand unknown) and a 19P OMC (aluminum) prop for the '78 115 (powerhead rated) Erude. ('course we don't have any idea if the PO had a clue what he was doing, right?) She was mounted one hole up as well, probably will try two holes up on the GT.
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...Thinking that a 23" pitch may be too steep. The two 21" pitch and one 22" pitch props I have now will be real world tested on the water for WOT GPS MPH and RPM readings (5,500 or a shade more is ideal) and we will go from there. ...
Just to toss out a little bit of data on this thread...
I turn around 5000 with a 24p prop. When I put the 22p on, it will spin up to 5500. WOT, and pretty close on the GPS speeds in both cases. The 24p is a bit faster on the top end at 64mph. The 22p topped out at 60 or 61. I rarely run the 22p, so in the right water conditions it could be close to the 24p.
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Want to express abit of frustration with White Bear Boat Works. I brought the boat over Friday, April 27th with the expectation that work would be started that day and have called twice since then. Today I went over there and discovered the boat uncovered outdoors in a unsecured area. Talked firmly with Jason Brown the owner. Boat was moved in doors with trailer front tipped up to drain the water. What can I say except what I said to Jason, that I had no idea that the boat would be uncovered through the rains and sun for 9 days. The boat came with a cover.
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It's always amazing how those guys think they can treat someone else's property.
Sorry to hear that David.
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UNACCEPTABLE ! ! !
Sorry to hear that Dave, after the big rains we've had it must have been full ...
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That's bad news dave. I think i would have hooked it up and pulled it home. I am not to sure about those guys anymore. I know Brian had good luck with them but Shorty had a pretty bad experience. There is a place in hudson I am going to try next time I need any work like that done that I don't feel like attacking myself.
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Mike the fiberglass man said when I brought it in April 27th that a person named Shorty with a green Glastron wanted to keep his in storage until work was started by White Bear Boat Works. That is what I wanted also. They were pulling a boat out of the indoor fiberglass area implying that mine would go in next. Mike does good fiberglass work - 28 or more years of experience and can match gelcoat colors.
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I agree, after seeing Brian's CVX20 they definitely do good work. I think it's more of a customer service issue. I am sure your boat will come out of there looking beautiful!
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FYI thats my boat in the shop. I am having all the white redone. If you stop by this week my boat is next to yours. I just talk to Mike and he said not to often that he gets two old GC in the shop at the same time.
Mike does great work also.
Scotty007
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I stopped by White Bear Boat Works around 4:15 PM. Scott, they had sprayed your boat's bottom white and had masked off the green. They are going to start my boat tomorrow. Mike looks like a ghost covered with white dust. What a relief to know the boat is now indoors with the top covered in plastic and masked off to keep the dust out. Boat and lower unit skeg should be finished and coming together soon - first part of next week?
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Mike at White Bear Boat Works put the boat on jacks to determine the extent of work necessary and to work on it. The hull has some stress cracks to be repaired. Note also the hole in the gelcoat, an air bubble between the gelcoat and the fiberglass from the Glastron factory. That too will be fixed, along with the hull discoloration cleanup, fill in transom edge, and some scratches on the bow. By placing a straight edge along the bottom of the hull indicated a definite hook on both sides. Other than that, the hull looks in great shape - no scratches or gouges. Boat should be done May 17th or 18th. Scott's boat is next to mine.
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Hey Mike ..
I'm wondering if the CVX-18 was designed with a "hook" in the hull ? I was surprized that the Intimidators all had such a design, but they do, before you take steps to correct the hook, maybe you should investigate the design. My scimitar had a "hook" in one side a Lot more than the other, I straited the hull out, and it does get squirly at high speeds, over 70mph, but on the hook idea, Barb's intimidator hug's the water like a magnet, the faster it goes, the more stable it seems, thats a fact. I think the 18's run on a pad, but outside the inboard strakes, there may be a "hook" designed into the hull to help stabilize it ... just a thought.
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Ya so long's the hooks the same on both sides it's probly there for a reason. 'Pad' is a whole new ball game. Don't believe pads are sposed to have much hook in 'em ...?
Call me kinky but I kinda like pics of boats restrained'n suspended in mid air?
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Many bass boat hulls, that run on "pads" have a hook designed into the hull between the lower and outboard strakes, they are almost the same depth of the pad, just has a strake seperating the difference.
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Well now we know what Glastron's would look like if they could fly! The first shot looks like a calendar picture.
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Same boat as in the James Bond movie, but only gets three feet off the ground.
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I've got one of them "flyin' boat" photos too!;
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT101511001.jpg)
(Sorry David, didn't mean to clutter the thread.) My V-178 has no hook in the hull at all, but the GT 150 has some hook between the inner and outer chines, none in the keel. I haven't had the CVX-16 off the trailer yet, so I don't know for sure. I would suspect it may be "built in" for stability (as stated above), but should be equal on both sides?
PS - Three feet off the ground seems like plenty to me! :o
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Your boat looks great Mark. Alot of work goes into the finishing. My boat is staying in the boatworks 9 days just for the minor things done to it. Yes, a few of the boat manufactorers use hooks to get the boat on plane and then when the boat is on the pad, these hooks, or downward water deflecting sufaces, are in the air. Manufactorers that come to mind are Gambler and Allison. Allison even has aluminum scoops that deflect the water downward, both on the boat and on the jackplate. They also make a hydrofin for the cavitation plate, and then say the plate must be at least 3 to 4 inches above the bottom of the boat. The main thing is that the running surface of the boat is straight with sharp edges at the end of the boat.
Going to work on the trailer next as it is off the boat for one week.
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David, call me a sissy but......the hook in Burnin Daylight, all though it slows me down some, it just sucks that boat down to the water and even with over trimming the drive past trim limit to push it, I have never really felt it try to chine walk. I feel very comfortable handling it. I've driven OleReds gold scimitar and started to pucker and back off the throttle long before I would have with the Intimidator. Hook is a positive for my heart rate and blood pressure. Good luck with your boat, it's very sharp looking. That is my favorite color combo for the CV16.
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I agree with the stable, predictable boat ride. Figured that the Glastron V-153 had a hook because none of the bow lifting props - Laser II and Power Tech PTR would raise the bow. These props wasted their energy trying to apply leverage. The fastest prop and the safest ride was the non-rake no-nonsense 2-blade bronze 21" pitch prop that simply pushed the boat without lifting the bow. Never felt out of control with the V-153 even in the low 50's MPH.
The CVX-16 will be another learning curve.
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The hull of the CVX18 which has a pad similar to the CVX16, also has those little hooks molded into the hull as well.
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OK ya made me do it.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00972Medium.jpg)
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Hubba hubba Jerry! Heh heh
Yo David there was no hook whatsoever in my V153. Nor is there any in the C500, or Baja15SS for that matter?
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Looks great Jerry. Think of all the new boats we have in the Glastron club we did not have last year.
Doug, the fact you had no hook in your V-153 meant you could use bow lifting props to raise your boat out of the water and go faster. Might be that Glastron made Minnesota Glastrons with hooks, and Florida Glastrons with straight edges.
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If I ever get this Mercury done. I have been waiting for the machine shop to get the driveshaft resplined. I picked it up today only to find out it's hollow. Turns out that's no good, so I have to cut it again and have it welded after all that. Motor is in pieces for painting.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01263Medium.jpg)
Red will love this.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01264Medium.jpg)
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Might be that Glastron made Minnesota Glastrons with hooks, and Florida Glastrons with straight edges
Hmm ...
Shirly yer not serious ...?
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Just kidding about the Minnesota vs. Florida Glastrons. But I have given up on the extreme motor raising on the transom. Sold the 22" Mercury Chopper and have the 22" Hi-Performance Mercury for sale.
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The boat is in the boat works and off the trailer so it is a perfect time to clean up the trailer, a 1986 Shorelandr 1600 lb. trailer. The manufacturer no longer makes the light gray color. The trailer had the usual pits on the fenders, discoloration from water, and rust. Used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and Scratch Remover applied with Grit 00 very fine steel wool over all the paint surfaces to remove rust and chalk, and then applied car cleaner and wax.
Hours and hours of work getting into all the cracks. Glad it is over. World's worst job would be a professional boat trailer detailer.
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World's worst job would be a professional boat trailer detailer
Not neccesarily. But yes anything boat related purty much sucks.
I was at a pool party a couple weeks ago. Standing next to a buddy who runs a boat repair shop. To my other side was my buddy Ryan who details cars'n boats. Into our midst came this loud mouthed bimbo who couldn't resist telling us, over'n over again, how great our jobs were. "Oh you guys get to be on boats out in the water'n see the Dolphin'n Manatee'n all that cool stuff ..." Finally Bob had had enough.
He said young lady I've been working on boats for 41 years. I effing hate boats. If I never see another boat it'll be too soon. And if you don't shut up right now I'm going to strangle you ...
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If I ever get this Mercury done. I have been waiting for the machine shop to get the driveshaft resplined. I picked it up today only to find out it's hollow. Turns out that's no good, so I have to cut it again and have it welded after all that. Motor is in pieces for painting.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01263Medium.jpg)
Red will love this.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01264Medium.jpg)
I don't mean to de-rail the thread, just my thought for Jerry
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj231/OleReds/DSC01264Medium1.jpg)
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj231/OleReds/NOZECONE008-1.jpg)
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If the Raker 22" pitch can not reach the redline 5,500 RPM, the 20" Raker should be able to.
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I used "Lab-metal" for filler. It's tough stuff, but you can't build it up well. It is what it is. If it doesn't cool right I can re-do it. I got the shaft today. We were going to cut and weld the driveshaft, but decided to re-spline it. Well the shaft is hollow and everyone said it won't hold up, so we cut it off and welded it after all. It looks really good. We got the bill for re-splining. (the part we tossed) $250.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01273Medium.jpg)
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Well the shaft is hollow and everyone said it won't hold up
I'm suprized those shafts are hollow, but I do remember some of the mercruisers had a little spring and pin in the top part of the shaft.
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Boat back from White Bear Boat Works. As usual, Mike does his magic with fiberglass and gelcoat to make it look like new. Gelcoat matches perfectly. The end of the pad was chipped but now is filled in and sharp, stress cracks fiberglassed, air bubble removed, descoloration buffed off, scratches in bottom removed, and bow scratches buffed out. Cann't say enough about Mike's dedication and caring. Stopped and looked at the lower unit today - it is shinnier than the original paint. Will call tonight to see if it has had the final coat of paint. The CVX-16 makes me forget about the V-153.
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WOW!
Your right, looks like new.
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Lower unit finished today also. Matched the Johnson color with Jaguar. Painted and clear coated.
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It's to nice to get wet ... LOL
They did a fantastic job Dave !
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Damn ... I'm getting Flake Envy all over again. This is going to keep happening, isn't it?
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Outstanding David! Just hope no Jaguars were harmed ...
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I'm getting Flake Envy all over again. This is going to keep happening, isn't it?
YUP! (At least it does for me. ::) )
Your boat looks fantastic David, looks like both places did an awesome job for you.
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David
Did you pull and all nighter to get the CVX ready for this morning.
Everything looks fantastic can not wait to see your boat.
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Worked on the Johnson today - touched up paint scratches, waxed the exterior and installed a water pump. Prop on the Johnson is a Raker 22" pitch. The water pump needed changing, the previous owner did not know when it had been changed. There was a little wear on the rubber blades. Johnson's have many more parts to change on the water impeller than Mercury's. Then there is the gear shifting rod that attaches under the carbs and must line up. Make special tools to help such a hanger rods, the screw attached to the screwdriver by duck tape so as not to get lost in the bottom of the engine. In summary, 3 hours of work in 11 hours, but did I get some good experience.
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Look GREAT Dave !
Wish ya could have made it to WBL today ...
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Gregg, would have liked to have boated at White Bear Lake. There will be other times in the future.
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Wouldn't have been a good "Prop test day" wind was blowing up white caps in the deep section of lake.
There was a nice spot to pull over and change props.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/Boat/P1070687.jpg)
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Then there is the gear shifting rod that attaches under the carbs and must line up
Feel yer pain David. Sounds to me like you have the bolt thru model, ya it's a pita tryin to hang on to that bolt. Good news is it's cheap'n easy to upgrade to the newer 'snap ring' version? Then all's ya need is a pair of long nose needlenose pliers?
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Day of detailing: polishing aluminum parts, cleaned up grill and glued back, buffing out scratches on bow near windshield, adjusting rollers on trailer, scrubbing rub rail, rubbing out one scratch on hull bottom, and touching up the 20" Raker prop.
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Continuation of detailing: Polished windshield, took off plexiglass cover over gauges and polished, tightened screws, cleaned uphostery, and vacuumed interior. There are 8 beverage holders, guess I have to drink more. Teleflex steering wheel has about 2 1/2" of play. Wish the view in front of the boat was not the garage door. The end is in sight.
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Teleflex steering wheel has about 2 1/2" of play.
Ya should have bought my dual helm when I had it. Time for a new system Dave. That sucks.
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David
Are you ready to detail another boat?
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As Yogi Berra once said, there is alot of detail in detailing.
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As Yogi Berra once said, there is alot of detail in detailing.
Did you know he supposedly snared his wife, who was a waitress at the time. By ordering apple pie a la mode, with ice cream on top ...
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"Yogi and Carmen, his loving wife of 62 years, are the closest thing our country has to royalty. They are both national treasures. Yet they continue to share, in their humble, unassuming way, their passion and energies with so many people and causes, so that "everyone in America can be what they want to be," added Carmen, as they spoke about how important The Yogi Berra Museum & Learning Center continues to be. The mission of the Yogi Berra Museum & Learning Center is to preserve and promote the values of respect, sportsmanship, social justice and excellence through inclusive, culturally diverse, sports-based educational programs and exhibits."
" It ain't over 'til it's over "
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Boat and motor completed to point where they could be water tested. Had the day off from work. Tested at White Bear Lake - wind was calm, no other boaters to speak of, and cool temperature. Tested three props, a OMC Raker 22", a OMC 12 3/4" x 21" SST, and a OMC 13 7/8" x 21" SST. Spent some time getting used to the CVX 16 and the Johnson. The CVX's steering wheel is small and far away compared to the big, close wheel V-153. Of course the Johnson controls are all different from Mercury's.
The Results:
Raker 22" ran 54.8 MPH @ 5,600 RPM
SST 13 7/8" x 21" (now called the Viper) ran 52.3 @ 5,500 RPM
SST 12 3/4" x 21" ran 52.2 @5,500 RPM
The Raker was the clear winner, enabling the CVX to get on the pad and feel light. The prop also allows alot of trim and does not lose bite at high speeds. However, at lower speeds it can break loose and one must trim back to let it catch. Then up the speed and trim back as much as you want. The Johnson is a quiet motor. The CVX was stable at all speeds, no chinewalk, and able to transverse waves nicely. Redline on the 115 HP Johnson is 5,500 RPM so we are right on.
I am really impressed with the CVX. Wind goes over the head. Lost my baseball cap once, but turned around and retrieved it. Lost a cotter pin in the lower unit hub changing props and had to go into town to buy some more. Burned about 16 gallons of gas in 4 1/2 hours.
This is just stage one of the prop testing. The next stage is testing a Mercury Laser II 22" and a PowerTech 22".
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More pictures:
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54.8 mph for the first time out is pretty darn good Dave ...
Yep ... I use to carry a baggie full of cotter key when I had my Johnson, change them every time I changed prop.
Sounds like ya like it (CVX) ... so ya think you'll keep it ?
...LOL
Hope one ( or both ) of the other props can get you over the 55 mph mark ( or more ) .
Think ya found a new avatar ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/WhiteBearLakeBoatTesting006r.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/davecvxavatar.jpg)
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David
You're boat looks very sharp
Sounds to me that you like the pad of the CVX
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Dave do you have the "Splashwell" mount or the "Transom" mount steering cable ?
What did you think about steering ?
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Have the splashwell steering. There is alot of play in the steering wheel, but the play did not induce chinewalk. Will probably change this Teleflex steering eventually. Steering also seemed hard to turn, but the steering tab was set properly - neutral at high speed. Believe there is a more-or-less friction to the steering system. I'll check the owners manual.
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I wish the wind went over my head in my cvx's. From about my chin up is all wind burn for me
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David, that is such a beautiful little ride. Pretty sexy if you ask me. Must be a chick magnet on the water.
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" Must be a chick magnet on the water "
Don't let the wife see that Dave or you'll be selling the CVX and keepin' the V153 ... LOL
Mine also has a lot of slop !
Have to hang on tight at speeds.
Mine is a "Transom" mount.
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Boat looks great on the water Dave!
Burned 16 gallons in 4.5 hours and you were the only one on the lake!! I would love to see that GPS route. I can see all the people in there houses going "There goes that racing boat again!"
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Burned 16 gallons in 4.5 hours
Ehh, that ain't nothin'. I burned 6 in under an hour on the way to Boca Sunday. What're ya a wussie? ... Heh heh heh
Just kidding David. Boat looks great'n those are some good #s. I admire your puttin' her through the paces first time out. Ya a new boat takes a lil gettin used to, still not sure I got this dang Baja figgered out? Btw I think 54.8 was my best ever with the V153 so you're at a good baseline. I proudly pass the torch to you.
Carry on.
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Not much happening on the CVX-16. Been concentrating on cleaning up and selling the V-153; had to put a new power trim motor in it ($425). Switching power trim motors is even worse than detailing boat trailers. For me, about 8 hours of fighting hydrolic lines, tight quarters, electrical connections, and filling up oil reserve.
Bought another used Raker 22" on a trial base to compare with the present Raker 22". But still at 14 props. Shipped a freebee to Don in NY that I got free on Craiglist.
Plan to disconnect the VRO on the 115 HP Johnson. My 1984 Johnson was the first year of the VRO and many improvements were made since then. Read how to do it and will take the boat and motor over to the Johnson mechanic to get his blessing on my intentions and method of doing it.
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While testing props on White Bear Lake with Gregg on Friday, June 8th, the warning alarm went off on the 115 HP Johnson. Actually there three different alarms with different sequences, but I did not know that then. I was close to the boat ramp and limped back at idle. Today I took the boat and motor to Scott at Wholesale Marine in East Bethel, MN. I had four questions for him, one of which was "I plan to disable the VRO system." The hood was off the outboard and his remark was "you have already disabled it." Lo and behold the vertical oil line to the VRO was detached and disconnected from the fitting and V-ty clamp. Then I grabbed this line and it came off the bottom also. Needless to say, this confirmed my intent to mypass the VRO system. The VRO unit had been changed, the oil line from the oil reserve tank to the engine changed, but the vertical line within the engine was hard and brittle. Scott then turned the flywheel over and declared that the compression was good and there was no damage to the engine.
Scott and I went over the procedures for disabling the VRO system. Can not say enough about Scott's depth of knowledge of Johnson's.
Too close for comfort.
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So, if I read that right? You ran it without oil? Or did it fail when you were out on WBL?
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There was enough oil in the oil reserve tank, about 1/2 full, and the boat ran fine the time before on White Bear Lake. But this time on the lake, the alarm went off soon after I started boating, and I immediately shut the engine down. There are three alarms - engine overheating, low oil, and oil pump malfunctioning, each with a different alarm. The alarm, I did not know it then, was for low oil. Alarm should have been for oil pump malfunctioning.
The previous owner took it in each fall for an engine inspection. They should have spotted the hard, brittle oil line.
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WHEW!!! Very glad to hear you caught it before damage occurred David.
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yep, time to take that out. Mix it yourself. Then your alarm for running out of "oil" will be your engine running out of gas.
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Whew is right! Good thing the alarm worked. That coulda gotten ugly. Yikes! In my case the VRO was already bypassed on the 90, and the 140 is one year prior to VRO so I never had to worry about it. Pre-mixing's been a way of life in my family for generations. Don't bother me none ...?
Ya I hear you about getting used to a new hull. Stepping out of a V153 and into a CVX16, or Baja15SS for example, is an eye opening experience. You don't climb on so much as climb in? Still feel a lil claustraphobic in mine, but I'm gettin better ... Yup the smaller steering wheel definitely takes a lil gettin used to. Lower seating position, etc. Kinda tough on us old farts eh David? Heh heh
Oh well, good that you found the source of the alarm before it caused any major doo doo to the motor. Carry on.
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WWWWWOOOO.....
That was a close call Dave !
Remember last fall same thing happened to my oil line ...
Did you ask him which version your VRO pump was ?
I know there was three versions. #1, #2 & #3 .
Dosen't matter now I guess ...
You took it pretty easy on the way back to the launch.
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Scott said the VRO had been replaced, so I assume he knew the difference between the versions. Weaned the Johnson off the VRO system by disconnecting or blocking three areas, and poured 3 1/2 pints of Mercury Premium Plus in the 18 gallon bow tank (tank was full) (extra oil for good measure). Then hooked the boat up to the car and drove 1/2 hour veering hard to the right and left to mix the oil and gas while my wife spent money at the garden place. Then raised the bow and syphooned out enough gas to see it turn green from the oil added to the tank. Engine started right up and ran well. In process of decarbonizing it now. Lubricated engine points and cleaned out the fuel filter. We are getting back to the straight and narrow, the basics, our roots, the fundamentals.
The sound of outboard motors running, with the snarls, the smoke, and the smell is better than perfume.
Doug, I'm used to close quarters driving from the Celica (glorified go kart) but the V-153 sure is roomier. The price you pay for styling.
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Better safe then sorry Dave !
Will you test drive the V-153 ?
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Will test drive the V-153 only for perspective buyers. I'm confident the 115 HP Mercury, the new power trim, the boat, and everything else is ship shape. V-153 sits in driveway, bow up to drain water from the rains, and covered. An eyesore, but looking out our kitchen window is an orange and white Chrysler boat with a 105 HP Chrysler sitting for years not used. What is Duane waiting for?
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Took out the oil reserve tank from under the splashwell behind the rear seat. This will leave more room for a spare prop, anchor, and cooler. Took a compression test of the cylinders - within 5 of each other.
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I use to have a 1984 Johnson 140 on my CVX16 never had a problem with the system, I upgraded to the newer vro in 1996 and it ran fine until the water jacket cracked on the bottom cylinder, there are small rubber tubes between the cylinders that divert water, apparently a little sand got in and froze over the winter. Ran it for three more years with JB weld, sold it and I think it is still going...
Now I have a 1997 Johnson 115 with the VRO system no problems at all, it has the System Check Display so you can easily see problems with the system...now I'm wondering if I shoud unhook it, seems regardless of the manufacture everyone likes to mix, I'll say one thing I don't go through alot of oil, and it runs and idles great...
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Mixing my own gas and oil gives me peace of mind that the engine will always get oil. I also run alittle bit rich on the oil, one pint to 5 - 3/4 gallons of gas. It is a pain premixing it with a 18 gallon built in gas tank. The owners manual says to pour the oil as you are filling up with gas. Apparently the warm weather and the movement of the boat ensure complete mixing. But in the winter or during cold weather, the owner's manual says to premix in a separate container. Think I will buy a 6 gallon container and premix the gas and oil and dump it into the boat tank.
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I sure can relate to that, you know to replace a new 115 is about 12 grand and to find a good used one is a major challenge...Your boat looks great and being an OMC guy I think you will find them to be a great motor. We have had our boat in the family since it was new, I bet it will be a sad day when you sell your one owner glastron.
I keep debting on larger boat and woud like another project but when you only use it 10 times a year its hard to go wrong with a CVX 16. You have to admit every time we go to the lake someone wants to talk about the Carlson, I can go all summer without seing another Carlson...lots of Searays...
Joe
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If I had the garage space at home, I would keep both the V-153 and the CVX-16. They have different types of behavior on the water. The V-153 is the racer, somewhat unrefined, basic, but gets the job done and gives you the thrills of speed and spray. Seems like you are going 80 MPH. The CVS-16 is more refined, fancier, and goes one mile faster (54.8 vs. 53.5 MPH), but does not make a big deal about it. Takes it all in stride. Both great boats.
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Tested the Johnson 115 HP today with Gregg at White Bear Lake. VRO disconnected and was running a rich mixture of gas. Tested another used 22" Raker. Motor appears to be doing fine. Saturday night I tried to move the boat forward on the trailer and the rear roller went over the end of the transom. Scary thought of the bottom of the boat getting wrecked. Put a 2" x 2" board under the pad and jacked it up with a hydraulic jack and added another spacer board under the 2 x 2. Did not sleep well last night. Set the alarm for 6 AM and tested props with Gregg. After pulling the boat out of the water, Gregg and I adjusted the boat on the trailer the right way. Now the rear roller is about 2" from end with an automatic stop at the front.
The speed limit on WBL is 35 MPH and Gregg and I basically held to that except when going for a top speed with a prop. I hit 51.8 MPH with one Racker 22" and 51.6 fMPH with the other. Three MPH lower than the previous 54.8 because of the heat, full fuel load, and rich mixture of oil.
Gregg and I figured that the ratio of fixing the boats and maintaining them to using them is about 10 to 1.
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More pictures.
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Great pictures guys! Looks like you had a great time on the lake. Boats sure are beautiful!!
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Gregg and I adjusted the boat on the trailer the right way. Now the rear roller is about 2" from end with an automatic stop at the front
Looks good! Ya you definitely don't want the boat too far fwd specially on a roller trailer.
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Hey Guys - Question here for ya. I don't want to hijack the thread, but while searching for some info on the '86 CVX16 vs. '87 CVX16 I came across this thread. I think the answer to this is pretty easy, but I want to double check with the experts! ;D
I've got the '86 CVX16. Looking to order one of the exact-fit Sunbrella covers for it from Overton's or the like. Their systems do not have a cover option for the '86, but they do for the '87 CVX16. My assumption is there were not enough changes between the model years to think that a cover for a '87 wouldn't fit my '86. I plan to go ahead and order the '87 cover. However, since these are exact-fit covers they do not allow for returns, so I want to be absolutely sure I'm ordering the right thing!
Any opinions on whether or not a 1987 cover should fit my 1986?
Thanks!
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The hulls never changed as far as I know. I have one of those "exact fit" covers for the '79 CVX16SS from them and it's not at all an exact fit. It works, but it's far from perfect; for trailering it fits fine when using the tie downs to hold it to the trailer but water will pool up in the corners if you leave it out in the rain.
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I have an 'exact fit' cover too...mine's not wide enough at the bow, and the reinforced windshield panels are so far back it doesn't actually touch the windshield.
It does the job, but its far from an exact fit.
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Another option is to get a custom made cover. Not sure what Tim paid for this but sure turned out nice.
Picked the 20 up on Saturday from Rite Way. They did one amazing job on the cover. I don't think the price was out of line either.
I know pictures are best so...........
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/t1.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/t2.jpg)
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Thanks for the input guys! And great pictures of the custom cover. I'm in a bit of a pinch for time, so waiting for something custom made is probably not an option. Will probably go with the '87 "exact fit" and call it good.
Thanks again!
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Bought a 5 gallon Scepter nonspill gas tank and will mix 5 gallons to 14 oz. of Premium Plus oil measured by the Quicksilver pint plastic containers and poured into the boat's internal 18 gallon tank . The pint containers have measuring markers on the side - 10, 12,14,16 oz. I have 10 of the pint containers and fill all 10 at once from a gallon of oil. The downside of disconnecting the VRO.
Bought the gas tank at Hannay's at a 15% Glastron Club discount. Thank you Hannay's.
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New driver being trained in, my son Paul drove most of the 28 miles on White Bear Lake this morning.
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Any new speed records today ?
Nice day for a boat ride !
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Top speed about 48 MPH with the hot weather and two in the boat.
Water was smooth. WBL is getting weeds on the surface of the water. Hope it does not get worse. No cops.
The dark orange "Hornet" boat was out again. 15' tri-hull, steering in the center of the boat, and powered by a 25 HP motor with till steering by man sitting in front the motor.
The reworked 22" Raker prop breaks loose at the lower speeds. Am getting another 22" Raker.
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" The "Hornet" boat was out again "
... LOL
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Prop tests earlier in the year on White Bear Lake confirmed that the OMC Raker was the fastest prop on the Johnson 115 (54.8 MPH GPS). Bought all three Rakers used but in excellent condition and finished off any rough edges and then polished. Two are Raker 22" pitch and one is 20" pitch.
Was up to 14 props, but now down to 9 and the goal is 7 - three Rakers for the 115 Johnson, and two 2-blade bronze 21" Mercury Quicksilver and two Ballistics (21" and 22") for the Mercury 115 if I ever switch.
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That's awesome. I'm gonna count on somebody at Red Wing having a prop wrench. I'll bring an extra washer just in case I need it. My 17 pitch aluminum is on the Merc now, I have a 15 pitch bronze two blade that should go on.
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Dan
Your GT is 625 lbs and my CV is 650 lbs, your Merc should weight about what mine is.
My Merc red lines at 5250 rpm's, your will go 5500 rpm's, my gear ratio is differant also.
I have a 18 gal. tank under front deck, you have tank/tanks under splashwell (I think) ...
We should be pretty close in most of or spec's (give or take a few lbs).
All speeds are GPS ...
Alm. 19P Merc prop got me to about 48 mph & 5500 + rpm's
SS Lazer II 20P got me about 49 mph & 5500 rpm's
SS Lazer II 22P got me 52 mph & 5200/5300 rpm's (prop I'm useing now)
Dave's 21P Bronze cupped prop got me about 50 mph & 5300 rpm's ( would love to have one ...Smooth ... Had a very nice seat of the pants feel to it ... )
Other props in the 21p range got me in the high 40's with mixed results on boat handling & speed's.
Bet you will need something in the 21P range also ...
I alway carry a prop wrench in my boat so your welcome to try my Alm. 19P & 22 Lazer II at Red Wing.
I'll be there around 1:00 on Fri. if you get there early you could try some quick runs ...
Have you checked out the GT150 speed thread on the CGOA ?
My CV is a hand full over 50 mph, might be motor height ... but handles & ride great in the upper 40's.
The Prop Master will be there ....
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/DavePropHunter2.jpg)
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I'll be setting up my propeller concession stand at the Red Wing Meet. LOL. These are the two for sale.
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" I'll be setting up my propeller concession stand at the Red Wing Meet "
... LOL
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Gregg,
Thanks for the info.
I plan on arriving Thursday for RedWing - I'll have a whole extra day.
I'm certainly not a motor head, although I am inclined to understand how mechanical things work & why. For whatever reason, with controls at WOT & carb baffles wide open, it took lots of playing with the trim to get 4800 rpm. The GT topped out at about 42/43. I'm counting on the 15 pitch to bring that RPM up. If I can get to 50, I think I'll be pleased. Don't want to make it unsafe since I'm usually with the kids.
Now, I've probably removed 100 lbs of weight in the rebuild. You're right about the gas tanks, though - I've got two 6 gallon removables under the splash well. I've looked into an 18/19 gallon tank for the bow, it just isn't going to happen before Red Wing. I'll consider that after I'm a little more confident in the motor.
I will probably pursue some assistance with a link-n-sync at RedWing, too ... out here by Rathbun, I'm hours away from anyone else who could help. The only local people "qualified" have either refused to touch it because it's "vintage," or they have proven themselves to be lazy and do half the work for all the pay.
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I think in the GT 150 you would want the tanks in the splash well area as they run flat (wet) to start out with.
The weight in the back will help lift the bow.
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One of you should grab this one. It already has a cup and the defect around the cup should be able to be fixed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propeller-Mercury-Outboard-Quicksilver-13-1-2-x-21-Brass-2-Blade-/180937539039?hash=item2a20b7bddf&item=180937539039&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propeller-Mercury-Outboard-Quicksilver-13-1-2-x-21-Brass-2-Blade-/180937539039?hash=item2a20b7bddf&item=180937539039&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr)
WetRaider, you should be able to swing a 21" pitch with no trouble.
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Thing with props is you don't know what works until ya try em !
4800 rpm's would be below Merc's wot range ... I think ... Dave ?
17P prop should have your motor over reving ... 15P would have piston's leaving block !
Might be a "Link & Sync" problem.
100 lbs. will help, but wouldn't account for that low rpm's/speeds.
I would try this before going with a bow tank ...
Small outboards are very sensitive to weight placement.
Put one fuel tank in back, with a few gal's. of fuel, then place 100 to 150 lbs under bow and test drive.
See how it handles and runs.
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Wish I had $82 Dave !
I'm in need of some oil ... the 115 hp sucks oil and gas like no tomorrow !
Walmart has "Mercury Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil, Gallon" for $19.97.
Good deal ?
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on paper (or computer monitor), I agree with all of you. When I got the boat, I figured I'd be looking at at least a 19, if not a 21 inch prop. Practical application - this thing puts around like a golf cart. Can't figure it out.
I can say, though, that the gauges the PO supplied me with are not appropriate & the only way I can get the tach to work is to pull my wire from the switch box and terminate at the rectifier. Not sure whether this would cause some inaccuracy. Possible.
For those that met me at Rathbun, I've got the hearing of a 90 year old. When I get up to speed on the lake, my hearing aids pick up the wind noise and I can't effectively listen to the motor. I can hear it running, but wouldn't know if I was getting full throttle out of it or not. Maybe I'll turn it lose with a few of you guys up there and count on other ears and eyes to get me straightened out.
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HUUMMMM ...
Might be your tach ?
After looking for a tach for an older Merc myself ... I know it's not an easy job to find one that fits/works ...
Should be a few I6 experts at Red Wing ...
I'm not one of them ... LOL
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At WOT on a Merc 115 the RPM's should not be below 5,000.
Gregg, where do you see Walmart selling Quicksilver Premium Plus outboard motor oil for $19.995 per gallon. I'll take three gallons for sure. Regular price is $26.95 and up.
David
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http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Premium-Plus-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil-Gallon/17165286 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Premium-Plus-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil-Gallon/17165286)
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They have it on the shelves here in Nebraska in the automotive department. Thats where I get the 25w-40 quicksilver oil for the starflite. its the cheapest around.
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If'n I can't get my hands on synthetic I generally run Quicksilver Synthetic Blend. "Advanced formula for extreme marine operating conditions" Yup, that's the one for me ... $27 bucks a gal at china mart.
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I've looked into an 18/19 gallon tank for the bow, it just isn't going to happen before Red Wing. I'll consider that after I'm a little more confident in the motor.
Do this! We put an http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Moeller-Marine-Fuel-Tank&i=39527&r=view&from=grid (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Moeller-Marine-Fuel-Tank&i=39527&r=view&from=grid) 18 gallon (sorry, can't figure out the hyperlink, html doesn't work apparently) in the bow on our old 150 rebuild and the weight distribution makes a HUGE difference. There's a lot of weight in the rear of those boats (motor, battery, T/T pump, anchor/whatever else ya got) and putting fuel weight in the front made our boat plane out much faster and also ran more 'level' when on plane. I have no clue why they didn't do this stock from the factory; would have made the GT-150 a much more desireable boat in my opinion.
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Amsoil 100 to 1
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Gregg, believe that the picture that comes up with your link to Walmart is for the direct fuel injection Mercury oil. The Premium Plus is different. I get a Walmart price of Premium Plus at Walmart of $28 something for the online price. The price also varies by store and by region. Let me know if you find something for $20 in the Twin Cities. I called the 84th and University Walmart and their price was $27.97. Fleet farm price is $26.95.
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Walmart has "Mercury Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil, Gallon" for $19.97.
Good deal ?
My outboard has only ever had Chevron 2-cycle used in it. 20 years old, and has plenty of scoot - even with the swill which is sold as 'gas' these days. So I see no point in even trying a different 2-cycle oil. $95 for a five-gallon bucket at my local fuels/oils shop, or $6+ a quart at retail.
-Eric
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All oils at Walmart ...
http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=2+cycle+oil (http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=2+cycle+oil)
Mercury Quicksilver Synthetic Blend 2-Cycle Outboard Oil ...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Synthetic-Blend-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil/17165294 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Synthetic-Blend-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil/17165294)
Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Oil, ONLINE ...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksilver-Premium-Plus-2-Cycle-Oil-Gallon/16565454 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksilver-Premium-Plus-2-Cycle-Oil-Gallon/16565454)
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We could also do sparkplug testing on the water for the best top speed. My Johnson outboard owners manual lists two sparkplugs to use, a Champion L78V (gapless) and a Champion L77J4 (.040 gap). Then we could also test NGK BUHW-2 against the Champion L78V.
The outboard motor came with the L77J4, but I bought a set of gapless L78V at Fleet Farm today at $2.39 per plug and may put them in.
Extra set of sparkplugs came with the Johnson with a label price on the plugs of $.65 each - how many years ago was that?
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David, I have found that NGK's work the best in my evinrude and I remember Doug in FL saying he uses NGK irridium, i just get the standard ones.
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NGK is all I will use in OMC. they just run better.
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Not that it means a whole lot here, but when I was into my dirt bike and motocross in my late teens, NGK was preferred, too.
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Anything over Champion! I have had good luck with NGK too.
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I run the NGK surface gap plugs too, wouldn't think of running anything else. (Personal preference thing, right?) NGK has "rolled" threads as opposed to "cut" threads like most other plugs, and I've never had a problem or issue with them. Interesting note from the Max Rules / Master Tech website though;
EVINRUDE/JOHNSON MOTORS SHIP WITH CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS. WE RECOMMEND NGK INSTEAD, AND TRADITIONAL ELECTRODE-GAP RATHER THAN SURFACE-GAP PLUGS WHERE POSSIBLE. WE HAVE FOUND THAT THE SURFACE-GAP PLUGS, WHILE LASTING LONGER, SEEM TO HAVE A SLIGHT PERFORMANCE HIT OVER THE STANDARD PLUGS.
http://www.maxrules.com/OMCplugchart.html (http://www.maxrules.com/OMCplugchart.html)
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Yeah I'm a big fan of NGKs, 'specially the fine wire Irridium. B7HIX I believe is the correct part# for our motors, BR7HIX is the resistor version. Try em you'll like em.
Yo David .040s too wide. Should be .030. I've never heard of a OMC 2 stroke with a gap other than .030?
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I was actually told not to move up to the Iridium NGK's on my Johnson 235HP as they run too hot and can cause early detonation? so I stayed with the L77J4's as well.
Dunno what's right...just what I was told by my guy.
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I was actually told not to move up to the Iridium NGK's on my Johnson 235HP as they run too hot and can cause early detonation? so I stayed with the L77J4's as well.
Dunno what's right...just what I was told by my guy.
Really. Mebbe something particular to the V6? Never had a problem in the 90, 140 seems to like em too. Why would they "run too hot" if they were the correct heat range plug? Hmm. Velly intellesting ...
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I was actually told not to move up to the Iridium NGK's on my Johnson 235HP as they run too hot and can cause early detonation? so I stayed with the L77J4's as well.
Dunno what's right...just what I was told by my guy.
Really. Mebbe something particular to the V6? Never had a problem in the 90, 140 seems to like em too. Why would they "run too hot" if they were the correct heat range plug? Hmm. Velly intellesting ...
You're assuming of course I know more than I do! LOL. Just what my guy said...they're too hot of plug for that motor (meaning mine). Could have been just one mechanics opinion. I switched them out and it made absolutely no difference what so ever... ::)
I didn't have it long enough to play with the plugs. I do know that Bluebell's new owner (should be at the meet btw) did find an bad coil pack and I believe its running much smoother now.
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I gave in to peer pressure and brought back the Champion surface plugs to Fleet Farm and got the NGK surface plugs BUHL2. The opinions on Champion vs. NGK and even surface vs. gap are divided, even from experts - Johnson mechanics, Mercury mechanics, and Johnson boat racers.
I switched from using Champions to NGK years ago because the Champion plugs seemed to wear out faster.
A dynamometer test might reveal a small difference in horsepower output between the brands.
And, yes, the Johnson owners manual stated a sparkplug gap of .040.
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.040 is correct, we run Champion in all the OMC product. we are a dealer for Mercury, Evinrude, and Yamaha.....David, I have a Dyno at work and at home...maybe I could bring the dyno and test tank over some weekend for testing, I have most adaptors that K&O offers. I believe the electrode style plugs (L77JC4) are thought to burn hotter at idle than surface gaps....I think that is why they list both styles for 1 engine. Gapped plugs help reduce fouling if you do a lot of low speed stuff, I think thats true.....guess a guy could ask NGK or Champion. At any rate I think we should light up that V4 about 6:00 am some morning on the Dyno.......I know that is very popular in my neiborhood.......
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Don, your answer makes sense because Johnson recommends the electrode plug for slow speeds and the surface gap for higher speeds. Guess my boating is mainly in the higher ranges and I should switch to the surface plugs.
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The surface gap NGK plugs for my 1985 Johnson 115 Hp are BUHXW-1 according to the NGK website. Of course no one stocks them, except perhaps marine dealers at an expense price, but Kath Auto on Rice Street can order them for $2.89 each without a prepayment. Just for your information on trying to get less popular NGK plugs.
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I have settled in on the OMC 20" pitch and 22" pitch Rakers being the best performance prop for my CVX-16 with a 115 HP Johnson. So now I am thinning the blades of a 22" Raker, making the leading edges sharp, and making the sharp edge extend to the hub.
It will be interesting to GPS this thinned blade 22" Raker against my factory original 22" Raker, both used but like new.
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Finished the prop by using wet and dry sandpaper 220,320,400,600,800,1000, and then mother's aluminum and alloy polish. Edges are much sharper than before.
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Finally got out on the water on White Bear Lake to test the 22" Raker props, one stock and one with thinned blades. Raker blades are thin in the first place, but I made them sharper. The thinned blade ran 54.8 MPH and the stock 55.0 MPH, too close to draw any conclusions, other than thinning makes little difference.
Boat's speedometer was pegging 60 MPH with RPM's around 5,400 to 5,500 - right at factory redline.
Next project will be to replace the steering in the spring as the steering wheel has way too much play.
All in all, a satisfying boating season for me - sold the V-153 to the right buyer, purchased and fixed up the CVX16, determined the best prop, going faster than the V-153, disabled the oil blending system (VRO) after almost ruining the engine because of a disconnected oil line, and a fair number of boat trips on the Mississippi and St. Croix with the Glastron group and family.
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WAHOO !
55 mph is AWESOME Dave !
You get any frost bite ?
Was kind of cool today ...
Give me a call when your ready to do your steering, I've done enough of them to be an expert ... LOL
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Nice numbers dave! i bet you had the entire lake to yourself too.
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Ehh big deal, my V153 did 54.8 with a 90... Heh heh heh
Just kidding David. Yer CVX is a lil heavier. Nice numbers!
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I should do some more testing, were running the same Boat and Motor, with a 19" prop, I'm getting 48-49 I wish I had your ambition to get a little more speed, maybe next year. One question have you raised your motor at all?
Joe
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Joe, plenty of time for testing next spring. We need to do a prop testing day at branched oak, I have several I need to try. Watch ebay, you can find some good deals. That is where I bought all 4 of the ones I want to try when the rebuild is done on the Phoenix. I paid around $100.00 for each of them.
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We will definitely do that, hopefully there will be some water in the lakes...we might need to sell the boats for campers if the weather does not change around here.
joe
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All in all, a satisfying boating season for me....
I'd say so, and it couldn't happen to a nicer guy. Congrats on the big numbers there David, pretty impressive IMHO! Equally impressive is the gorgeous appearance of your new CVX ride now, you "set the bar" way up there. Aside from the steering upgrade, she's ready for action when she comes out of moth balls next spring, how much better can it get!??! Good job my friend.
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White Bear Lake had about five boats on the lake, people taking their pontoon boats off the lake, a few fisherman, a pleasure rider, and a small sailboat race between 4 boats.
Gregg, yes I would appreciate your experience and knowledge of steering systems. That will be my "the nightmare begins". First step, remove the two front seats and the console.
The motor is 3/4" off the transom. The boat is very sable and easy to drive at full speed, much easier than the V-153, as the boat is riding on a pad. As the boat accelerates, the boat pops onto the pad, like shifting into a higher gear, much looser and faster acceleration at that point. There is no chinewalking even though the steering has 2 inches of free play. The boat is not sensative to motor trim angle, as more trim angle results in a rooster tail, but not more bow lift.
I was using Champion surface gap plugs, number L78V, but have other Champion and NGK plugs to test.
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The Baystar or NFB shouldn't be to hard to do, few hours tops.
Removing everything to get at it will take longer ...
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That's awesome Dave.
The baystar feels very nice on Stromzillas cvx16.
Next stop 56 aye?
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I have been looking into Baystar Teleflex steering systems. Looks like I would purchase the HR4645 and then must get separately the adopter HA4642 that fits cylinder HC4648 for a 1985 Johnson 115. Kit comes with two 20' lines, but can you shorten them, or do you just circle the extra feet, as 11' would probably be enough.
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/hydraulic-new/outboard-new/baystar/ (http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/hydraulic-new/outboard-new/baystar/)
http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/site/download/BAYSTAR%20OUTBOARD%20BOOK%2012.pdf (http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/site/download/BAYSTAR%20OUTBOARD%20BOOK%2012.pdf)
Where have people been buying them? Hannay's sells them, along with West Marine, Cabola's, and many others.
I fight steering torque just like everyone else, and it would be nice to relax while driving.
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Depending on the fittings on the hose you could have new ones made up at a local hydraulic store, or most Agriculture or Construction Equipment Dealers will make custom Hydraulic hoses to your spec.
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I saw a presentation from U-flex some time back, looked like a good product. I think they call their hydraulic system Silversteer? ..........not sure how they match up for price. You could talk to Joe at Hannays for details and differences between the systems and for prices.
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Google search the part numbers, click on shopping, and you can find all kinds of places that sell them and find the best price.
HC4648H Cylinder
HH4315 Helm
I know Napa makes hydraulic lines.
I like that set up. I didn't know it existed.
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Theres room to hide lines, just coil them up and hide some where.
Would be nice to have a little extra if you ever had to remove your motor for some reason, or put on a Jack Plate ...
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I went to teleflex's web site last night after reading David's post. It says in the description of the kit that the hoses are able to be cut to the proper length needed. Must be push to connect hose instead of using threaded fittings.
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I'm leaning towards a mechanical system instead of hydraulic. The Bay Star system by Teleflex, around $500, is on the low end of price. Teleflex's Sea Star and competitors brands, such as Don mentioned, the Uflex Silversteer Hydraulic O/B Steering System, are $800 and more and are built rugged. Hydraulic systems are discussed on Scream and Fly's forums. Even these higher end systems have problems with seals, adjustments to take out play, etc. I will do more digging, but I'm leaning towards the tried and true mechanical such as the Teleflex NFB single rack steering system.
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I'll do some reading also ...
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I have never met anybody that regretted doing it right the first time, Spend the money.
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They look crimped, don't think you could just cut them ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/T2eC16dHJHoE9n3KgIcBQKtphzNg60_57.jpg)
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Finished detailing the CVX16 today. Think I am done for awhile. Next - prop testing.
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Finished detailing the CVX16 today. Think I am done for awhile. Next - prop testing (continued).
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She's shining like a new penny Dave ...
It's a shame to get her wet !
... LOL
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Looks awesome Dave!
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David, have you seen this boat on Classic Glastron? (Boats found) The license magically changed from TN to NY along with ageing about 20 yrs. The TN boat was for sale a while back. Volvo replied to it.
Possibly no metalflake. You get Johnson controls & wiring and new steering($1500 for steering)? Also a depth finder. Transom work may be minor. Just needs a few staples and your magic polishing ability. They will come down because of no trailer. http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/boa/3844735619.html (http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/boa/3844735619.html)
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Too much needs to be done this boat to justify the $1,250. Needs a transom rebuild ($2,500), and work done to the transom fiberglass from the outside (probably make the whole transom white), upholstey might be $1,500, motor $1,500, may need floor. My thought is to pay top dollar for a well kept up boat and fix it up from there. You will be ahead in dollars and time spent. Boat should be parted out.
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But they say "the rest of the boat is in good shape" ???
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But they say "the rest of the boat is in good shape" ???
Yup, I love it when they say "needs a weekend's worth of work" LOL
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Have you seen this on in Tacoma WA? Sold for $6000. Said it had 140 but the decal is 120. Haven't seen one with the louvers yet. 1989 big block?. Should get more air.
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9063 (http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9063)
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Must be sold now, taken off of Craigslist. Amazing how many Glastron/Carlsons are sold in like new condition. Hats off to those who maintain and store them for 25+ years and pass the pride of ownership onto someone else.
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1980 glastron Carlson cvx 16 150 mercury - $2990 (Mahopac NY )
More pics. New interior. No buttons! Here's the site:
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/boa/3958590278.html (http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/boa/3958590278.html)
The 1980's had all metalflake on the deck. I think the motor is 1989.
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Finished detailing the CVX16 today. Think I am done for awhile. Next - prop testing.
Holy cow.... That's what I just bought... for $500 but mines been giving the Prison-btch makeover and all the vinyl needs replacing.. I don't think I'm gonna be able to take her back to prom night like yours. My Metric, maybe...
But your cvx16 is S....W.... EET! Like Captain America Lake Model!
(mine: Trailer Court Knight Rider lol)
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab138/dcpolasky/86%20CVX-16/IMG_20131115_140657_zps6d6577eb.jpg) (http://s857.photobucket.com/user/dcpolasky/media/86%20CVX-16/IMG_20131115_140657_zps6d6577eb.jpg.html)