Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: thedeuceman on July 09, 2012, 11:14:12 PM
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first thanks for all the advice in my introduction.
well after lots of car fixing, work travel, cleaning the garage, and family fun time.
i have the hull in garage, and started grinding, so i have a few questions.
should i, or do i need to grind all of the old layers down to the hull.
also there is lots filler around the edges of where the floor was, should i grind all of this out too
thanks
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more info, the above photo is a close up, here is 1 further back, the light green color is all filler as it seems the original floor was smaller than the space, i think it was also to make the transition smooth, it was under the floor glass.
here is a photo that shows more, and also one of my giant dust collector, it picks up almost all of the dust
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Had this work been done on your boat by a previous owner? As far as I could tell, there wasn't any filler in my GT 150. For me, I put a 4-1/2 inch 36 grit flap-wheel on my grinder once I got everything rough cut away. You want a pretty smooth surface to adhere your new fiberglass to - a chewed up surface will lift your wet work up and allow air bubbles.
The picture below shows how I had sanded the hull before setting a bed & outside stringers. I did leave a little channel for the keel, but the outside was smooth. I took this picture before finishing up on the upper right side. I mixed loose strand & resin to pack the gap under the new transom. Vertically, where the corner boxes were built out, you can see how my rough cuts looked. I used a Rigid Job Max tool with the rounded flush-cut attachment. I felt safer using that than a grinder wheel slicing through things at 30,000 rpm.
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re: Filler around floor - Mine had the same situation Deuce. (Not sure if it was original, or had been previously "reworked".) I ground it back a little to allow fresh bedding for the new floor to ensure a good bond, but if it was still in good condition and bonded to the hull I left it in place. If there was any cracking or lifting from the hull I ground it out.
You want the final surface to be flat or flowing before you try to lay down cloth, biax, or whatever. Like Dan stated the 36 grit flapper wheel leaves a good surface for the material to "bite to".
Just my humble amateur two cents worth, hope it helps. ;)
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT%20150/GT611007Medium.jpg)
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT%20150/GT611008Medium.jpg)
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT%20150/GT611011Medium.jpg)
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thanks guys, those pix are vary helpful.
i guess im on the right track, ill just keep makin dust.
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well grinding in 90+ deg weather is fun...
but dust collector rev 1.1 helped lots, im on my third shirt, at about 5lbs of dust per
i ended up grinding out all the old mat that had been holding the floor/stringers in, i forund many quarter size bubbles under it.
it appears the transom was attached with some vary hard filler, i will grind it off tomorrow
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That looks real good. You should have a great surface for adhering your new glass, now.
Your dust collector looks fun. I just hung my leaf blower from an a-frame ladder and turned it on high. Gave me a breeze while working in the heat & carried the dust away from me before I could breath any of it. Sweating in a face mask sucks.
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Ya the green stuff is purty much in there for life. Dunno what it is but it's some badazz sh*t! You can grind it out I spose but why bother. Scuff it up real good'n feather it in.
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well... for better or worse, i ground all the white filler off the transom (was between the wood and the glass on the back)
the stuff was a half inch thick in some spots, it looked like plastic filler but it was vary hard. had lots of cracks in it.
now just feather the holes in the transom and some cleanup with a flap wheel and done grinding.
now for a week of patterns and cutting !
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well i got he transom and center stringer cut, still need final fitting.
cut from 11 ply with the stringer lapped as 8' was too short
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transom, stringers, cross braces, knee braces cut and fit.
not as fancy as the work of MarkS, but i think it will do, but im conflicted about bedding.
some say make resin paste, some say PL ....some say anything that leaves a space between stringer and hull.
planing on using poly resin and cloth and mat to hold it all together.
thanks in advance for advice
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brought this V173 home last night, intention is/was to put 115 on the GT
question is, if i do should i change the direction im going here ?
thanks
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Change direction as in ?????????? Not sure I understand. I can tell you not to put the drain hole for the splash well in the middle if you're going to run an OMC V4 with PT&T! (Yup, it's blocked by the motor). :(
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Change direction as in ?????????? Not sure I understand. I can tell you not to put the drain hole for the splash well in the middle if you're going to run an OMC V4 with PT&T! (Yup, it's blocked by the motor). :(
Yea, I found that out to when swapping over from the inline merc 6 to the V6. I had to drill a hole through the mounting plate on the motor for the water to drain. Not sure if you can do that on the OMC.
Lookslike with the added gussets that your transom should be strong enough to support the extra weight/power.
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Deuce, I've got a '76 Merc 1150 on the back of my GT 150.
No problem at all for me with the weight. My transom had delaminated (or, rather, had not been laminated at all beyond a squirt of liquid nails) and that was the reason for my rebuild this spring. I'm 100% confident that my re-build was done sufficiently to support the motor. I may be wrong, but I believe the weight of my 1150 is somewhere around 330-340 lbs.
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Deuce
I was wondering if you got all your materials yet. I just picked up some of mine today and will probably need to get some more. I was really wondering if you had got any Cabosil yet. It is used to thicken the resin so it doesn't run when tabbing in the stringers (if you didn't know what it is) If you haven't let me know and we could split a bag it would probably save us both some money. I live in Mahtomedi so not far from you at all. And don't buy all the resin at fleet farm I need some to because it is the cheapest place I found it. Dam why did I tell him that. I got to quit typing my thoughts.
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sorry for the vague post, the direction question was if the added braces were enough to support the bigger motor, sounds like thats good.
fireman, i did not know that (yet) so thanks and yea sounds like a good plan.
and thanks all for the tip on the drain, i would have missed that for sure.
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The hull (and transom) was originally rated for 90 hp Deuce, an 85/115 hp V4 weighs in (about the same I think) around 280 something pounds with manual trim, 318 lbs (or something close) with Power T&T. There's not much difference in weight really, and IMHO the torque would be a similar equation. (Not that far off.) Since we're going back with fresh wood, and 'glassing it in properly (probably better than originally done), I don't believe it's going to be an issue. The added "knees" or gussets should help handle the additional HP.
That's what makes this "support group" so great, sharing tips and tricks and previous blunders to help others afflicted with the same addiction! ;D
PS - It looks to me like the OMC's have a "manifold" (internal passageway?) for the trim fluid running through that part of the mount Jason, I was afraid to drill into it and find out! Someone suggested spacing the motor off the transom to allow it to drain, but the motor is already mounted and the bolts are sealed with thickened epoxy to make sure no water gets in there. I'm adding another drain hole off to the side.?
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fireman, i did not know that (yet) so thanks and yea sounds like a good plan.
a bag has about 11 gallons and it is 65 for it If you just buy it buy the gallon it is 15.00 a gallon sound like on average you use about 3-6 gallons. If you want let me know I will get it and we can meet up some time.
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stringer and transom glued together with resin ans 1.5oz mat
many bolt holes patched in transom
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Joe, looks good.
When I laid out my transom, I made a 5" grid on it - positioned it so that none of the bolt holes for the motor mount were at an intersection. I believe I had 27 stainless screws sandwiching mine together. I left them all in place and glassed over the top of them when I had it in place.
I consider the fiberglass work like painting ... if you spend quality time on the prep work, including pre-cutting all your pieces and laying them near where they're needed, you can get a great job done in little time.
I used some mix-master buckets from our True Value store (Home Depot sells the same) for mixing resin. They're flexible enough that you can squeeze them and pop out a resin cast of the inside if you let the resin harden up. I would pour 2 or 3 with the resin I needed, and mix the hardener in one. When I was out of that batch (mixing about 12 oz. at a time), I had a syringe ready with hardener for the next. I couldn't come up with any other way to keep a wet edge without having to wait long enough for it to dry out.
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Looks good Joe I will stop by this weekend to get some of the Cabisol and check out the progress.
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fitted the top (it was off when i got it), put some straps in to pull the transom forward 1"
glassed the transom in with mat (bedded in resin/cabosil)
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Nice work. I didn't have any clamps like that, so I had to screw the sucker in. Left a few holes on the fiberglass to be filled. Keep up the steady progress.
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yea i just got them at harbor freight, had to run there to get a "super long handle needle nose" to make into a snap ring pliers to get those 2 big snap rings out of the lower unit on the 115.
and they just cried out to me ;)
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stringers and transom all glassed in with double bias, 2 layers on gussets
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Nice work.
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foam is cut, floor is going in yet today (i hope)
floor is fitted, on advice from Tim im not sealing it off as original, but leaving it open so water can run out and leaving an opening in the front so it can breath. also drilled stringers, transom braces for drainage
last, i moved the drain closer to the bottom and am making it out of biax and resin instead of using a tube, is this an ok plan ?
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floor is in and covered with CSM (i had 1.5oz but that may have been too heavy cuz i used lots of resin)
but its done, put battery cables and fuel line under the floor (just in case)
cut foam for buoyancy boxes
and set the top on so i can make patterns for the front structure.
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installed a fuel tank instead of a ski locker !
put seats in just to see that my feet fit around everything (wow this is a small boat)
looks like the GT-150 is my "mid life crisis" boat, and i will use the V173 for outings with more people.
also made sure the rub-rails fit, they do, and from the looks of it they have done their job over the years.
im debating sanding/polishing or just going with them as is, any pointers ?
and last we are also trying out hand at upholstery, Laurie got 1 seat bottom done tonight :-)
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Joe I polished mine on the 18 look at my cvx thread
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thanks, they look great !
i'm gonna do the same thing
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progress has been slow, workin on motors and picking up boats, good distractions i guess
painted under the bow (thanks for the idea mark)
looks so nice im thinking about painting all the inside of the top... or would that be overkill ?
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Looking good Joe, nice progress!
im thinking about painting all the inside of the top... or would that be overkill ?
I really wish I'd have done mine (underside of the deck)! There won't be that many people see up under there, but it would look much better to me. (And after all, that's who you're trying to please, yourself, right?) It would also reflect the light much better, making it easier to see what's stored up under there. Just my two cents...... ;)
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What kind of "paint" did you use under there. I have seen other people "paint" their bilge area but wasn't sure if it was paint, gelcoat, or what.
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Who me? I used a single part epoxy (?) paint we had at work (leftovers) for my bow and bilge area, enamel with hardener for the rest of the floor.
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I used some industrial implement enamel (tractor paint) i had left from somthing
I figure if it stickes to a tractor sittin outside its good for the parts no one will see
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There's a product called bilge-cote, I believe. Rich used it on his boat. Looks like it had a good gloss.
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i am fitting the top on the GT-150, the original piece Allen cut out of the splash well was over 1/4" thick.
i have ground back about 6" to feather in several layers of biax.
first pix
thing is i have a large gap at the back (where the rub rail ends)
second 2 pix, up from the bottom
any ideas on this, or could anyone that has done this post a few pix or point me to a thread.
its also vary tight in the vary front of the bow.
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When you separated the top & bottom and then ground out the hull, how did you brace it to make sure it retained its shape?
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it was apart when i got it, Allen had built a cradle for it to sit on.
before i set the stringers i fit the top (several times actually) and pulled it together front to back with straps, i even over compensated some.
that prob explains the gaps, but i guess i should have pulled from the rear corners.
im thinking leaving the gasket out at the nose and rear corners (where its really tight) and maybe extra gasket or caulk along the back.
what has anyone else done for the part from the back to the transom (where the trim piece goes)
i think someone mentioned glass on the inside on one thread.
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Joe, I just had an "aggravation flashback looking at your pics. (AKA = been there, cussed at that!) I had to pull the deck back off, move it forward to minimize the gap at the stern, and then set it back on. (It wouldn't "slide" forward with the sealing tape in the joint.) Since I was more concerned about getting the gap tight at the stern, I started there when mating the halves together and worked my way to the bow.
I considered "glassing" the seam from the inside, but decided against it when I saw how little room there is to work up under there! (Especially back at the stern, which was my biggest area of concern.) With the sealing tape and a bead of 3M 5200 all the way around, it turned out water tight and no problems so far. I did come back inside and run another bead of sealant around the lip of the joint from the inside once the halves were married back together, probably over-kill but that's how I felt best.
Sorry I didn't get any pics of the process, but working alone with sealant all over your gloves is not the time to handle the camera. Take your time, you're doing great. This was a major milestone in the project, hard on the back and frustrating at times, but worth the extra effort. ;)
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I love the thread. I have to do a friends bass boat soon, the top 1/2 of that one is heavy!!
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I'd forgotten this is was Greens other project boat.
I'm kinda with Mark on this one, maybe working it together from the stern forward is the way to go and it'll all pull together as you attach them.
Seems like a good plan!
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I had the same issue ... I dropped and set the top half maybe 6 or 8 times before it was ready to be screwed in place. Seemed that I could never get the back to line up while it fit like a glove everywhere else. So ... the final drop, I set the stern down first. I could lower it on a rope pulley and position it with one hand while the other gave slack or tightened up the rope. Once the rear was in place and secure, I lowered the front almost all the way - set a pair of screws on each side of the rear, then dropped the front all the way. Putting the rub rail on, I started at the back and worked myself forward. I had wide-head stainless screws that really pulled the two pieces together snug - all the way until the "bend" approaching the bow. Underneath the bow cap, my top half is protruding a full 5/8's to 3/4 inch. All along the sides and rear, though, I've got full contact and am water tight. For me, I figure that I will rarely, if ever, see water approaching the rubrail at the bow - perhaps on the downwards slope of some really big chop or wake - MAYBE - ... and even if I did, I probably wouldn't see any more water that I'd get in the boat dripping off our swimsuits and such.
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well worked on this baby all weekend...
rub rails polished, helps when you know what yer doing :o i'll be ready next time
gas filler and vent installed
top mated to bottom and screwed together :P, now that was quite a job
i used foam tape made to seal toppers, and lubed it and the top with KY... of all things
glassed in the splash well, 3 layers of biax
i have 2 questions here
1 is 3 layers enough ?, the original cap had about 1/4" of layered glass plus filler.
2 is it acceptable to use plastic body filler to feather in the new glass (this boat is painted) , or do i need to use dura glass or something like that ?
i wanted to get the dash drilled out to fit the new gauges, figured i should install the helm and wheel...
it had a mores rack but the cable was vary stiff, cant get them apart to lube (guess yer not spose t do that anyways)
so at the risk of mock and ridicule i fess up, i had a teleflex rotary helm with a 16' cable from one of the V8 donors so i ran the cable in from the other side and have a loop under the bow. i kno, but im running out of money here so save $120 for now.
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Joe
I have a rack helm & 11 foot steering cable from my CV if you would like to try that ...
Little sloppy but no binding or sticking.
Worked great on the CV up to about 50 mph.
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Thanks Gregg
after installing the rotary helm with the 20 degree tilt on it i think i like that.
stopped at hannays today, picked up a new bezel for the helm and 2 more gauges, cant have to many gauges ;D
is the 11' measurement the conduit length ?
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Think you just measure the cable ... so yes ...
We put an 11 foot one next to my old one and said " Looks Good " ...
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the cable i took out was 10'
too cold lay glass >:(
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" the cable i took out was 10' "
Sounds about right as my CV is 16' long.
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Slow but moving along
splash well is almost done, and control is mounted.
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Looking good Joe, she's coming along nicely!
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thanks, you getting on the water has been encouraging as this project drags on.
was hoping for a test run yet, but it don't look good as i still have to get some stuff ready for winter >:(
but hey its getting there.
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Love the way that dash and those gauges look !!
I'm planning on some black plexy/acrylic for my dash - great to have a picture for motivation
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Thanks Dan, i really felt like all these gauges were over kill for an outboard, but I'm addicted to information.
and i figure i will always have an older motor and would like to keep tabs in its operation.
this GT was painted that way when i got it, so I'm just making do with whats there, but i would prob have picked the black as well.
I am just glad to here others share the obsession ;)
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There's no-such-thing as too many gauges.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC01203Medium.jpg)
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finally got the control mounted... was kind of a PIA
fabricated that plate from some cool looking alum (glove box door) from one of the donors.
it covers the mounting holes from the old control.
and the switch panel from the same stuff.
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I love the concealed control box! Best way to go IMO. Brushed aluminum plate looks great too. I am excited to see you finish this thing.
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A lot of messy work Joe but you're getting to the more fun stuff. Was your dash changed? It looks great! I thought gt 150 dashes were pretty vertical. Yours appears to slant back more like a CVX.
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it don't look like it was changed, but i have no clue. it was painted like that when i got it also, i like the black dash kinda makes it look like an insert.
and you are correct, this is the fun stuff, customize and fab parts.
and wiring is soon, i could get carried away with that ;D
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Fuel tank installed, inspected inside... basically spotless, great tank, thanks to Shawn.
Fill and vent lines connected, started on wiring.
I was gonna build a fuse panel of some sort but i found these breakers on a switch panel i pruned out of an old school bus my father in law scrapped out. mounted it under the dash on a panel with ground terminals.
unfortunately i new this day was approaching, i now need to get stuff done before winter. >:(
i will reassemble the trailer i got with the GT and get it loaded on that so i can move it around for a while.
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Dig the breaker panel. Very cool. Keep on keepin on.
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HA... i just noticed the pix of the breakers on the dash is up side down ::)
oh well
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It's a utility trailer...
no wait, its a boat trailer !
after loading it, i don't really like how the GT sits on rollers, thinking about converting to bunks.
but at least its on the trailer
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Got my first bunk trailer this summer ...
I like it , no down sides on loading or launching.
WAY better hull support !
Go for it ...
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well after 3 months i got something don for the GT150
my Son Dylan runs the laser marking machine at work, he put the text on, it turned out the text was recessed so i filled it with black paint.
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Its great to be back at making some progress ;D
Gauges and sw panel in and wired.
Transom and splash well primed.
But i thought having an OB was spose to make it simple/easy...
Man there's lots of wires !
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But i thought having an OB was spose to make it simple/easy...
Man there's lots of wires !
I hear ya Joe, great progress though. The dash looks NICE.
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Thanks, and i did bring the complexity on myself :-/
that's what i do
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Thanks, and i did bring the complexity on myself :-/
that's what i do
Joe
Better then someone else doing it. :D
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Lookin good Joe. Far too complex'n distracting for me, but to each their own.
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well...
it would prob have been easier to have done this when the hull was empty, but doing it now.
put it on its side to fix a few bad spots on the bottom of the hull, turns out there were 2 areas where the damage went through even though i did not find it when working on the inside. used some tips from Red (thanks)
its great there is so much talent here for us to tap into. :)
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Don in St. Louis, MO here. I'm getting ready to tear into my GT160 this spring and want to put a fuel tank up front. I don't need a ski locker. What is the capacity of the gas tank you installed? I have been looking at Moeller's and they have some that are 7 1/4" tall and some that are 11" tall. It looks to me like I have 14" height to work with but need to allow for the hose connections. I would rather use the 11" tall one since it will make a smaller footprint. I will be running a 1995 Merc 115 and think a 12 gallon tank should be sufficient capacity. I boat on a lake where we have plenty of gas available so its not like I need a large capacity for long river trips or such. Also, what kind of fuel line did you run to the back and did you run that down under the floor or along the gunnels? I guess length of fuel line is not an issue for outboards being able to draw 10 or 12 feet? I know the standard hoses are 6 feet. Thanks for the great thread - I learned alot. Don
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Why do you want to run a bow tank?
Fuel in the rear is a much better place for it as it helps in, much smoother ride, and helps in trim effect to get the bow up.
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Mark did some testing with weight placement and would have in water test results . . .
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In my CVX-16, I plan on keeping the minimum amount of fuel in the bow tank, with two portable six gallon tanks with fuel connections in the back seat or rear floor, along with two non-spill five gallon tanks. These tanks will be in a plastic container with a lid with the fuel line out the top of the side. Container will keep things clean and tidy in the boat.
This setup will be for two to three people in the boat. With four, will revert to the bow tank.
When I got the boat last spring and tested it a White Bear Lake for the first time, started with the 18 gallon bow tank full and ended with it empty and a speed of 54.8 MPH GPS, mucher faster than with a full tank. My philosophy is put as much weight in back until the boat starts to porpose.
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My thinking is that it is a much neater operation in terms of refueling and a better use of space. I am concerned about ride but not about top speed all that much. 12 gallons when full is only 72 pounds. I already have one 6 gallon plastic tank so going that route would certainly save a lot of money. A permanent tank and all the hardware and a guage would be $300+ so that's a consideration.
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Just reread your post\question . . .
You have a GT 160 . . . I thought you were talking about a GT 150 . . .
We ( CV's , CVX's, ) with Johnson & Merc 115 hp motor have trouble making our favorite river run on 18 gals. of fuel, you might wanna go with a 16 gal. tank at least. The 115 are thirsty motors and if speed isn't concern the 18 gal. would be even better !
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Lookin' good Joe, Red's tips are coming in handy already huh! That should save a lot of sanding and re-applying filler = less time taken to get the job done. Gets a little nerve wracking flipping the whole boat up, I know the feeling.
Don the GT's (150 and I would think the GT160 would be very similar) respond well to moving some weight forward, probably due to the hull design and the lack of a pad like the CVX's have. It's not just a speed thing, the ride improves a great deal overall. I can only speak with certainty on the 150, but 50-75 lbs moved forward made a big difference. I wasn't able to trim the motor up very much at all before the weight/balance change, and the bow seemed to "bounce" over the waves. I picked up a full 2 mph and more importantly a much smoother ride just adding 50 lbs of ballast in the nose of the ski locker!
Just my experience so far, there may be other factors involved as well. Sure am having a ball testing, that's all I can say for sure!
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I'm also pulling off a 305 pound 79 Johnson 85HP (powerhead rated) and putting on a 348 pound 95 Merc 115HP (prop rated). I'm also thinking about putting on a thin 3" manual jack plate (20 pounds) so I can adjust at will. So with the added weight I thought I probably should move something forward. No more posts on this from me since I don't want to hijack this thread!
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I will echo Mark and say that on a 150, the ride improves significantly.
I have a Mercury 1150 and 12 gallons of fuel can get used up quicker than you think. I've got two 6 gallon tanks, and with heavy throttle and lots of play, I get about an hour and 45 minutes per 6 gallons fuel. I think most will tell you that 3 gallons per hour is typical for an outboard this size.
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Don:
the tank i put in is an 18 gal steel tank, was 1 of 2 dual tanks that sat under the seat of a V195.
it was low cost and available, that's basically why i picked that one, and made the decision for the same reason as you and because i had read on several threads that weight in the front would help for a GT150.
i ran a 3/8" copper line under the floor.
yes height is a prob, i had to raise the tank 3" so i could move it forward.
also had to cut 1" off the filler neck and make a vary short 90 to get it all to fit.
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hull is all fixed up, that went pretty good :)
now i just need to figure out what paint and such to use, and where to get it
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all the parts are cut for the GT seat bases.
also had this great idea to get the X-19 seats to the dude that's doing the upholstery...
well as i should have expected, it was more than just pulling them out and delivering :o
all new wood cut for them too, next assembly and coating with thinned resin.
and put a door in my "tent" cuz i got sick of going through a flap in the plastic and trying to keep it closed
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wiring is almost done :)
just need to make motor connections, trim and bilge pump.
i installed a small panel out of lexan with terminal strips and relays for the trim, it's on hinges so it folds up out of sight, but when down its easy to access.
also installed fuel filter in the back, and a shut off valve at the fuel tank.
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Looks good Joe! A shut off is a good idea for the fuel line.
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i had not thought about it, but when we were workin on Jim's boat on Saturday
he mentioned having shut off the gas, figured it sounded like a good idea.
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When my old wiring had finally been compromised, I was fogging the boat to put it away for the winter, everything was complete so I turned the key off - motor kept running. Took the key out - motor kept running. Played with the ignition for a few seconds - no luck, either. I had to climb in the boat and disconnect the fuel line from the tank. A shut-off would have been handy. I think, if you can do while it's all in progress, even if you don't use it often, someday it will come in handy and you'll be glad it's there.
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That's what I figured...
I can see how that could happen, when I pulled the harness out of the donor boat there was an extra wire spliced in.
After investigating I found 3 of the wires were broke right where the exit the motor (too much flex).
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great news !!!
motor stand with tank works great.
motor runs, at least idles great with new carb kits, so i had a leaky needle or a sunk float before.
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we finally got up the nerve to cut and sew the vinyl...
ordered the embossed stuff on line, and matching piping.
i still need to add some foam and get it stapled on but it turned out good, not perfect by any means but we are happy with it ;D
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When can ya start on mine ?
...lol
Where did you get the pleated vinyl ?
Lookin good Joe !
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http://www.garysupholstery.com/marine-vinyl.html
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Seats look great. You are really making good progress and should be able to drop it in the water this spring at the rate your going. Nice work Joe.
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What the name of the blue vinyl ?
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You can be very proud of those seats. Making something like that without the special tools and experience, fantastic. I think my interior will be one of the things i'll farm out to a professional. Dont have the confidence you have. Especially after my recent screw up with the new stringer. Good job.
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thanks
the drivers seat is done !!!
not perfect but i think it turned out really nice.
the drivers seat with the cutout for the control was a PITA :P
but we got it
the passenger side will be easy now.
Gregg... i will get the color name tomorrow.
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Those seats are looking great Joe, nice work!
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Nice job Joe! Looks professional.
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Well done Joe and thanks for sharing the link! This might be the year I finally tackle my seats!
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Seriously Joe, those look really nice!
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Thanks guys
Gregg...
the color is paradox blue
the non pleated blue i got from Rockford supply (cheaper than gary's) but they dont have the pleated or the pre made piping.
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Great work !
I've ordered from Rochford before, too. Always good prices, always quick shipping. The red "pleated" vinyl on mine was from Rochford. Of course I'm not trying to restore mine to original, I'm trying to use some original inspiration on a more modern take.
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Seats look great Joe !
You should go into business ...
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Joe
Your seats look awesome, can't wait to see the old boat in the water.
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They really do look great, nice job!
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Those seats are just right up next to professional. Look at that wall of roll cabs in the background. And you guys think I have a nice shop. Could buy a nice building with whats in those babys.
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thanks...
it took quite a while to build up the nerve to start cutting and sewing.
passenger seat... port side seat frame was in worse condition, had to replace the side panel and reinforce the seat backs.
now just need to coat them with resin.
as far as all the tool's and boxes...
30 years worth collecting, most of it is second hand, but i will admit i like to have the tools i need to get something done.
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Half primed, wasn't sure how it would cover (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/udanujys.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/hy8e3usa.jpg)
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Lookin good Joe!!
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good job Joe
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People are going to think this boat went through a time machine when it's done! It'll look showroom!
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not sure about "show room" but it will look good, and it will be a "users boat" and in that i imagine it will see plenty of dock and beach rash by the end of the summer.
I am getting so excited... just about ready to "jump out of my skin", might just take a half day off work and do some painting this afternoon ;D
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First coat of color(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/10/y2ybeta8.jpg)
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Nice work!
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Lookin Good Joe! Hey do you wan't those 115 pistons back or what? (Indian giver ...)
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Lookin Good Joe! Hey do you wan't those 115 pistons back or what? (Indian giver ...)
That's 'Native American giver'
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Lookin Good Joe! Hey do you wan't those 115 pistons back or what? (Indian giver ...)
Maybe... think they will fit in the 79 100hp i got.
PO said it needs 1 piston, i will let ya kno when i open it up, painting now.
not sure if ya can tell but its silver
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Whenever Joe. They're not going anywhere fast. It's evident that ya have yer hands full with the painting project. Carry on.
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Well... I put just over 2 quarts of clear on the hull, port side and transom last night. 😊
It's got more orange peal than I would have liked to see, but at least it did not lift the color.
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Orange peel on the bottom of a boat is supposed to make it faster from what I have read. Smooth hull is supposed to be slower. At least this is what I have read on a few different forums. Supposedly it traps a tiny amount of water, and water on water is a better surface with has less drag. Dont know if it is true or if it makes that much of a difference. My first paint jobs had lots of Orange peel and many runs to go with them. Did you have to use the tape trick i showed you.
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Orange peel on the bottom of a boat is supposed to make it faster from what I have read
Rumor has it it does. Like dimples on a golf ball ...
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Thanks to the "flipping crew"
Now the newly painted hull is pointing down...
And the seats are done
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/tesyme2u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/y2eqy8ej.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/qebuhape.jpg)
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But I did have to repair the sewing machine in the middle of the whole ordeal(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/musame8y.jpg)
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WOW!! Looks great! I can't believe that is the same boat Amber and I saw when we picked up the 140 last fall. What a difference!
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Just noticed the splash well knee pad ...
NICE JOE !
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Looking great Joe, you're coming down the home stretch now!
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That's awesome. If it looks this cool in a garage, imagine how cool it will look on the water!
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Very impressive work for being a first timer (on a boat) Joe.
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I just can't get over how great those seats look. You sure got that down. Cangrats, all very nicely done.
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Back to it...
Splash well is primed
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/uvute6u4.jpg)
And all this foam talk got me thinking/second guessing just having pieces of 2" foam under the floor so I drilled 14 1" holes and put 2 cans of great stuff in there over this
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/enega3a5.jpg)
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Boat looks fantastic...................Great work
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Splash well is now silver, and cleared.
So the painting is done :)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/26/setyqara.jpg)
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Sweet Joe, it looks great.
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Just curious as to why the splash well didn't get done with the rest of the deck...
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Just curious as to why the splash well didn't get done with the rest of the deck...
The splash well was painted silver with the rest of the boat when Jeff painted it long ago, that paint job mostly remains.
when Allen split the hull he cut the back of the splash well out when he split the hull, so i glassed it into the transom.
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How soon until its ready for splash day Joe?
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the ice should be off silver lake (next to my place) by next weekend, i may take a day or so off from work and shoot for that, so May 4 2013 is my goal.
i just looked back, i picked this up from Allen on April 8 2012, 13 months ;D
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Maybe I will try to run up and get the 195 this weekend and get the manifolds on it and I can do my first test run with that as well.
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its first bath :D
i did learn something today...
im not vary good at buffing, and not sure i want to be :-/
i will need to join the next buffing party so i can learn something.
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Buffing paint might be a little different then Gel/Flake ...
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Nice work, looks great! So funny to hear "ice should be off the lake next week". Being from upstate NY originally, I don't miss that cold stuff one bit. I grew up on a lake all my life. As winter was on its way in, couldn't wait for it to freeze enough to get on it. When spring was coming, couldn't wait for the ice to go so we could get the boat back in the water. Can't wait to see your boat in the water.
Rich
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And it now has tunes
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/3yzy2u9y.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/y5u5e8uv.jpg)
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Wow... i must have been tired, that pix is really blurry.
i also installed the drain sleeve and the bilge pump drain last night, with Lauries help.
we were both covered in 5200 by the time that was done :-/.
plan on rigging the motor tomorrow, debating on making 3/8" plates for inside the transom, and maybe an 1/8" on the outside.
any input ?
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Personally, I like plates. They help distribute the load and keep the bolts from crushing the transom. I bought one and I think I'm going to get another to address both the top and bottom bolts. When I pull the Merc, they'll go on when I reinstall.
These go on the inside.
http://www.iboats.com/Springfield-Outboard-Motor-Transom-Support-Plates/dm/cart_id.727315892--session_id.382331909--view_id.20681 (http://www.iboats.com/Springfield-Outboard-Motor-Transom-Support-Plates/dm/cart_id.727315892--session_id.382331909--view_id.20681)
I dont remember if this is exactly what I bought. It was a while ago. I dont think I paid this much either. Shop around. I see these have 12" spacing only. I know there are others around with different spacing.
Isn't that stuff great to get off your hands! :o
It is blurry. What did you end up for tunes?
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Well i got the speakers installed...
i figured this way we could hear tunes on the beach, or the skier or tuber can here.
was kinda scary cutting those big holes !
OK... THIS IS A JOKE, DON'T PUT THE SPEAKERS THERE !!!!!!
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I bet Joe, after putting in all that hard work on that paint job.
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LOL
Looks great! I suppose the sub woofer is in the transom?
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Actually...
No
But I did really drill these holes for cup holders
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/uqu6u9uv.jpg)
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You got me Joe. Nice photoshop job. Just had my eyes checked at the beginning of the week, doc said they were good. I usually don't fall for those.
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Yea, just thinking though its funny, if someone stumbled across it and did it to their boat I would feel really bad :(
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Oh thank God! I kept hoping it was only a cruel joke ...
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Joe, I thought they looked perfect there, break out the sawzall! :o
Rich
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Whew! U skeered me Joe.
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And we thought Jason was good at tricking us on April Fools Day!
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I didn't comment specifically b/c I thought you'd ruined the boat and didn't want to say anything.
Good one Joe!
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yea the silence kinda scared me :-/
was just a month late with the humor ...
though it seems a boat like this is always somewhat of a project, this thread is coming and the GT will not be listed as a project vary soon.
made some good progress yesterday
Bilge pump and switch in and wired
tilt wired, cables figured out (will pick them up at hannays tonight)
i wrestled the carpet in last night, hope to cut and glue it tonight
looks like rain and 40 on Saturday, doubt i will try and launch and test in the rain so we will see
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You got that much done even with me absorbing hours out of your day?
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Ya Joe ...
Saw that and said ... OMG !
Then remembered the seat covers ...
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And we thought Jason was good at tricking us on April Fools Day!
I think we have a new champion. Good one Joe! I was gonna reply'n ask if'n ya'd installed drain plugs in em?
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All i got done tonight was to fit the carpet, after running out to edina to pick up a new OMC flush mount control.
it was cool, the guy i got it from builds OMC V4 race motors, he must have had 20 motors there, and he was rigging one on a hydrostream.
had some great info.
so hopefully that ends the great control saga...
i started out with a mercrusier control cuz at the time i did not kno it wouldn't work on an outboard.
then i installed the 79 control box that came with the last motor, but the trim switch was flaky, then i busted the cam trying to get the handle off to fix it.
i got the new control with the 12' cables i needed for $100
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Was his name Peter ?
Nice guy ... Got my Johnson from him.
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to tell you the truth, i was so distracted by all the "eye candy" in his shop i don't remember.
he did say he recalled selling motors to club members.
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Pretty sure that was him ...
A guy at Supreme Marine rebuilds the power heads for him.
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Contact Joe if you need control parts. :D
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Carpet it glued in :D
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/03/5edy2u7e.jpg)
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Joe, here is how the cables are routed in my boat.
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Here's what mine looks like, I also shot some pictures of my controls...
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Joe, here is how the cables are routed in my boat.
Thanks, the cables I got turn out to be 13 feet long, I'm thinking about drilling a hole on the port side above where your fuel line comes out, And looping the cables around and bringing out that whole so they can in and out as the motor turns.
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This makes me feel good, well along with the carpet glue
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/03/qugenu5y.jpg)
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Speaking of cables. Napa sells some large diameter corrugated plastic sheathing by the foot. I used on the V172 cables running to the engine. Nice clean look.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/ScreenShot2013-05-02at103243PM_zps187a62f9.png) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1967%20V172/ScreenShot2013-05-02at103243PM_zps187a62f9.png.html)
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I have seen that too, I opted for the snakeskin on this one
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Jason, that looked nice.
I picked up a mesh fishing rod sleeve at a sporting goods store for about $3.00 ... works kinda like those old chinese finger traps ... compress the ends towards each other and the diameter opened up to let you pass multiple cables through, then stretch out out and it fit snug.
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I have basically the same stuff, we use it on control panels.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/03/7ymaruty.jpg)
I have the fuel line in it now, not shown in this pix.
I think before I drill another hole I'm gonna try tying up like David's and see if I like that.
If anyone has a photo of something else I would like to see it.
I'm hoping to fit the windshield and work on interior tonight.
Looks like my "splash date" will not be tomorrow, it was an optimistic goal, besides its snowing here right now :(
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Jason, that looked nice.
I picked up a mesh fishing rod sleeve at a sporting goods store for about $3.00 ... works kinda like those old chinese finger traps ... compress the ends towards each other and the diameter opened up to let you pass multiple cables through, then stretch out out and it fit snug.
Great idea! I like that even better.
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STUPID SNOW!!!!!!! >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
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Is it really still snowing up there??
Rich
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Rich - you know I'm in Des Moines...it just stopped here...been snowing for 2 days. Minnesota has been pounded the last couple of weeks. The good news is that its gonna be 75 here Tuesday.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-avoZsY6T6ss/UYRPUhz2NbI/AAAAAAAANy8/Sak8ORkbhC4/s800/IMG_20130503_085732.jpg)
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Speaking of cables. Napa sells some large diameter corrugated plastic sheathing by the foot. I used on the V172 cables running to the engine. Nice clean look.
I did price the plastic sheathing at Napa today...1" diameter, $0.69 a foot. I'll be picking some of that up soon. Didn't know they sold it in bulk lengths!
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This was the view out of my daughter's bedroom window this morning, looking at the neighbor's house ...
I'm in Centerville, IA ... 90 miles south and east of Doran in Des Moines.
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Unreal!
NEW FLASH TO MOTHER NATURE......IT IS MAY, GIVE THESE GUYS A BREAK!
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I may have been over thinking these control cables... but this is what i finally ended up with.
seems a bit unconventional but i like the way the cabled slide through when it turns.
i had to put a spring and a carabiener to get them to retract.
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It is 34 degrees and sleeting/snowing in SW Missouri. I usually consider April 20th safe to summarize boats, pumps, hoses, etc. - glad I got delayed this year.
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Isn't this crazy, Don. I'm usually getting in some good fishing by now. I haven't bothered to re-spool with fresh line for the spring, yet.
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Yours looks much "neater" than mine Joe, nice work. I wanted to put the battery and PT&T box on the port side for balance, so I split the batt cables out of the loom to make it happen. Ended up looking a little "busy" back there, but I guess it's functional.......(http://mob978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT%20150/GT150Aug19007.jpg)Did you put a plate on the outside ?(http://mob978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/MarkSmith_2010/GT%20150/BoatStuff010.jpg)
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Thanks for the pix Mark...
im not putting a plate on the outside, thinkin about making one for the top inside out of some 3/8" alum i have but not sure yet.
glued carpet to the seat bases and gas tank, installed custom made temp sensor and fitted windshield.
now it's lookin done. :D
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She's a beauty Joe, and will probably shine with the best of them.
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Yeah, its really looking good Joe! I can't wait to see it at Rathbun!
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Awesome job, Joe. I'm excited to see it at Rathbun, too. It looks great!
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Looking good Joe!
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Must be a "GOOD" feeling to be that close to "DONE" ...
WELL ... Now it's performance tuning ...
Guess it never ends ...
LOL
Lookin' good Joe !
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Joe, let me know if you want to test OMC props. A 20" or 22" Raker may work for you.
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My cables are just cabled tied and move nice but I don't have the kind of boots you have on the splash well. Just an opening where the cable steering used to enter.
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Ross,
I picked up a nice pair of boots on eBay for something like $4.50 ... they were 5" diameter. Seller accidentally sent me a pair of 8" stainless hinges, when I messaged him, he said keep the hinges, your boots are coming priority mail. Two days later, they were on my doorstep.
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Ross, Looks like your 67 v 163 weighed 670. I had a Bayflight v 163-(blue & white) in 1970 w/ 135 Merc on it. Well balanced. Weighed appx 870. I saw the pic in 71 of the Carlson (Rode in one by Alexandria that yr. 125 hp Johnson -53 mph) My neighbor from MN previously actually knew the boat when I showed the pic. Sold the 163 one yr old. Took a big loss. Waited until 80 for the CVX 16. Here's the site for the v 163:
http://www.classicglastron.com/70gl-v164-163.html
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Ross,
I picked up a nice pair of boots on eBay for something like $4.50 ... they were 5" diameter. Seller accidentally sent me a pair of 8" stainless hinges, when I messaged him, he said keep the hinges, your boots are coming priority mail. Two days later, they were on my doorstep.
Yes I installed some on my first boat, 67 Larson All American. I don't really have any desire to put boots on this boat. More holes etc. Not worried about water and I like not having the cables bind up on anything and I think it looks fine.
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Ross, Looks like your 67 v 163 weighed 670. I had a Bayflight v 163-(blue & white) in 1970 w/ 135 Merc on it. Well balanced. Weighed appx 870. I saw the pic in 71 of the Carlson (Rode in one by Alexandria that yr. 125 hp Johnson -53 mph) My neighbor from MN previously actually knew the boat when I showed the pic. Sold the 163 one yr old. Took a big loss. Waited until 80 for the CVX 16. Here's the site for the v 163:
http://www.classicglastron.com/70gl-v164-163.html
Ahhh it would have been nice to have another V163 in the club but then again, maybe not.
I do like the feel of the boat. Handles waves nice. Feels fairly nimble. Chine walks a bit approaching 50 but I've eliminated most of that as well as massive torque steer going with the 2 blade bronze prop as well as getting my best speed. I would like some more power however.
Sorry Joe, your thread!
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Joe, let me know if you want to test OMC props. A 20" or 22" Raker may work for you.
Thanks, i'm getting close here...
i put the speakers and some interior lights in last night, all the wiring inside is done.
gonna put gas in the tank tonight test run the motor in the barrel before i put 5200 on the bolts, im starting 1 hole up.
assuming that works ok, i will just need to change fluid in lower unit.
bolt the seats in, rub-rail insert and trim pieces, and registration.
im hoping it sees a lake by this weekend !
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Some people would say to use 3M 4200 or Boat Life Caulk Life on the bolts instead of the 5200.
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Parts guy at Hannay's said to use 4200 if I didn't mind white and Life caulk if I wanted clear.
Isn't 5200 for things that will never be removed ?
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Yes hard to get the bolts out and hard to get off gelcoat.
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thanks, i will get 4200 for the motor bolts
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ran the motor in the barrel last night, did the sync and timing with the exception of WOT timing (does anyone have one of these test wheels the manual talks about ?)
the tach was not working so i opened it up, nuts were loose on the motor so that should be good (bench tested it)
here are 2 pix with the interior lights i put in Sunday night.
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Looks great Joe!
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No kidding. That's awesome. Think you'll see water this weekend?
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Cool Joe.
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Thanks !
Few more items off the list, tach fixed and installed, seats are attached, speedo pickup is mounted, Jeff stopped by and i got a bill of sale so i will have a reg tomorrow.
the list is shrinking... so this weekend may be a reality ;D
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I'm still amazed by those seats!
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Me too..great job...
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Motor is mounted and sealed, half of the rub rail bumper is installed (and i have a blister from pushing on the screw driver)
this bumper came with the boat, but i think it must have come from Allen's CV cuz when i got to the bow the holes from the bow cap were still 18" away...
oh well it will work just fine anyways.
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Getting very close now. Must be getting excited. Don't forget to put your plug in at the ramp, and not before that! :P
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Well I can't take a picture while driving but I am on Silverlake right now, so I guess it does work.
Lakes too short to really wind out but I move the trim ride to the middle hole and it looks like I can get about 45 on the speedometer at about 5000 rpm's with 14 x 19 pitch prop(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/11/ju8e9e4y.jpg)
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WAY TO GO JOE !
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Joe
Sounds like everything is working 45mph not to bad, just a little fine tunning.
Glad it all came together.
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Speed is 0 at 3000 RPM, Joe ... ;-) ... ask Doran what happens when you don't connect the pitot tube at the back of the gauge.
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Speed is 0 at 3000 RPM, Joe ... ;-) ... ask Doran what happens when you don't connect the pitot tube at the back of the gauge.
No that's the tach does when you turn it off
I tried taking a video while I was driving but I was fairly unsuccessful
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Speed is 0 at 3000 RPM, Joe ... ;-) ... ask Doran what happens when you don't connect the pitot tube at the back of the gauge.
Dunno Dan, never had a tube on the boat until this spring.
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Doran - I would have sworn you were the one who got sprayed when the tube wasn't connected behind the dash ??? I'll take responsibility for spreading false rumors ... :-/
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I prefer to jump in the water completely, rather than just a light misting in the face...that's for wimps!
:D
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Way to go Joe. Nice to see it in the water!!
Rich
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Can not remember but does include either a camera or phone or both?
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Speed is 0 at 3000 RPM, Joe ... ;-) ... ask Doran what happens when you don't connect the pitot tube at the back of the gauge.
I had that happen last year, but the tube fell off and one my nieces thought we were taking on water.
It does look good Joe, I bet it feels great to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
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Oh Yes !!!
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It floats! Congrats Joe!!
Ya now you get to enjoy dialing it in ...?
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Can not remember but does include either a camera or phone or both?
Both, and you forgot the digital video recorder. (oh... and my pride)
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2
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That's the best kind of picture Joe...on the water!
Splash Day: 5/10/2013.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2
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When you get it singing right, how about a You tube for us. I heard they might start charging especially for music. Had a guy who tried to tell us his GT 150 went 55 w/ a 80 Merc and a HP bronze. I think his nose was growing too. My 80 hp Merc went 40 at the time. 500 lb Span America. Had my 23 bronze then.
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What is the bottom of the seat cushion supposed to look like? Mine are all rotten so i need to replace but it's it just a cutout of plywood or are there certain blocks, etc that keep it in place on the base?
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This is how the bottom of a CV seat looks, large piece slips under seat back and two small pieces hold it from sliding side to side on seat base.
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I know mine were a piece of ply wood with a short piece of conduit screwed to the bottem of it. Then a cross member on the base with a clip that holds the conduit.
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Our GT 150 originally had a piece of pipe screwed to the seat base, snapped into a couple metal spring brackets kind a like broom holders. I don’t have any pictures, and it didn’t work out, what I ended up with a couple of 5/16 bolts on the bottom of the seat that catch a board that runs across the base. It works OK, but you would be better off finding a more robust solution.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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My V-156 had a set up like that, Aluminum pipe would snap into clip.
Picture is a GT150 seat base with clip ...
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Here is my only recommendation. Put some Velcro down on the lip of the cushion. I had to many scares after rough water or bumpy rides on a trailer and the cushion is laying somewhere else in the boat. Never blew out.......but, you never know.
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I've had same thing happen with my seat bottoms, after some big wakes / waves, thought vinyl straps with snaps on seat bottoms.
Never had a problem with V-156 / GT150 style clips …
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Oh those pictures and ideas are perfect! Thank you for the help! Excited to get some better seats on that don't crumble beneath passengers!
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Velcro would probably work okay for that application. But it might not be a bad idea to have some kinda 'tether' too. Mebbe a piece of webbing. You could put a "twist-lock" (aka common-sense) fastener on the base to make it removable?
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Hyperacme or anyone else that knows, what dimensions are your seats for the over hang? As I said, mine are rotten so I am thinking they are not hanging over the edges like they should. I want to make sure I cur the new plywood correctly as I plan on doing so tomorrow. Thanks again for your help!
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GT150 Seats / Ski locker / Colors
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7001.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7001.0)