Author Topic: CVZ-18 restore thread...part 2 (Read 165215 times)

Jerry · « **Reply #100 on:** February 23, 2011, 09:23:41 PM »

One of the small terminals on the solenoid has an "S" on it. That's the one. and if the neutral switch was bad, you would have nothing past the switch. TEST LIGHT!!

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #101 on:** February 23, 2011, 09:24:26 PM »

There is always 12 volts to the starter provided you have a large battery cable connected to it from the battery's positive post. Does the solenoid on the rear of the exhaust manifold click when you turn the key to start? If no, then it could be not getting the signal to do so from the key - a bad or disconnected neutral safety switch in the control box could cause that.

dorelse · « **Reply #102 on:** February 23, 2011, 09:41:37 PM »

Yeah, no solenoid click...and that was already hooked up to the wiring harness, and I checked it against the schematic and believe its correct. I've got power on both sides of that as well, but I suppose the click is the solenoid closing to complete it right?

I checked the main fuse, I've got current going through.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #103 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:01:51 PM »

I would first trace it out with a test light to find out why you're solenoid isn't clicking. The thin yellow/red wire is the same that comes off your key switch and goes through the neutral safety, power should be there when you turn the key to start. The solenoid should click to close the contacts between the two large terminals to send power to the solenoid on the starter.

dorelse · « **Reply #104 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:10:10 PM »

Quote from: Rich_V174SS on February 23, 2011, 10:01:51 PM

I would first trace it out with a test light to find out why you're solenoid isn't clicking. The thin yellow/red wire is the same that comes off your key switch and goes through the neutral safety, power should be there when you turn the key to start. The solenoid should click to close the contacts between the two large terminals to send power to the solenoid on the starter.

I do have power to the yellow wire when the key goes to the start position, then not when the key is set back to 'run' position.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #105 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:13:43 PM »

That is correct then. Then one of the large terminal wires (probably yellow) goes to the start terminal on the starter's solenoid, this would be to the small terminal to the right (between the two large terminals) inside closest to the engine block, not the opposite one on the outside.

dorelse · « **Reply #106 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:16:59 PM »

Update...when my son hits the start on the key switch, I actually lose current off the small yellow wire.

Bridging the 2 large solenoid poles sends power to the starter and she cranks over!

So...bad solenoid or neutral switch?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #107 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:21:53 PM »

Could be a bad solenoid or is improperly wired, or maybe even a bad ground connection. If your manifold mounted solenoid doesn't have a black ground wire then it is probably grounded to the block through its mounting bracket - or you haven't yet bolted it to the manifold.

dorelse · « **Reply #108 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:24:59 PM »

Quote from: Rich_V174SS on February 23, 2011, 10:21:53 PM

Could be a bad solenoid or is improperly wired, or maybe even a bad ground connection. If your manifold mounted solenoid doesn't have a black ground wire then it is probably grounded to the block through its mounting bracket - or you haven't yet bolted it to the manifold.

No grounding wire, it is mounted to the manifold. Surprisingly enough...I have spares of those in the bonus bucket too.

BTW, Rich...thanks for the help. If you ever make it to the meet in MN (and I can find a way to haul 2 boats there)...Golidie's all yours for the meet.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #109 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:29:42 PM »

Such a tempting offer! If I can manage the time away from work I would love to be there. I'll bring my tool bag with me.

dorelse · « **Reply #110 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:35:21 PM »

I'll try replacing the solenoid with my spare... Since the boat sat outside since forever, what do you think the changes are the safety is shot in the throttle lever?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #111 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:39:37 PM »

First disconnect the small yellow wire from the solenoid and connect it to a test light to see if it lights when the key is turned to start. If it does then the circuit is fine. If it doesn't light then you have to trace it back through the engine connection harness, to the neutral safety, then to the key to find where power isn't getting through, eliminating each connection along the way. Remember, the wire lead on the test light needs a good connection to ground to work.

dorelse · « **Reply #112 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:41:13 PM »

Perfect. Thanks again Rich.

Space heaters still running in the garage, time to do a little research work!

OleRed · « **Reply #113 on:** February 23, 2011, 11:40:28 PM »

Sorry Doran, been teaching my grandson how ti eat a plate full of bar-b-q ribs ... uhmmmm

Here's you a pic, I don't have the starter on, but I think this will help ya.

dorelse · « **Reply #114 on:** February 23, 2011, 11:51:22 PM »

Yeah, I've got some things to check out in the starting circuit tomorrow. I've got something not right going on when turning the key to 'start'...power drops out on the yellow wire.

Rich shot me some good suggestions above...but now I'm getting excited.

dorelse · « **Reply #115 on:** February 24, 2011, 12:05:37 AM »

Quote from: Rich_V174SS on February 23, 2011, 10:13:43 PM

That is correct then. Then one of the large terminal wires (probably yellow) goes to the start terminal on the starter's solenoid, this would be to the small terminal to the right (between the two large terminals) inside closest to the engine block, not the opposite one on the outside.

I also had the yellow wire on the outside smaller terminal...moved to the inside...no change. I'll have my son help me test the circuits tomorrow.

Jerry · « **Reply #116 on:** February 24, 2011, 02:56:36 AM »

If that remote solenoid is like the ones on my Johnsons, one large terminal is to the battery, the other large terminal goes ti the starter "S" terminal., one small terminal goes to the switch, and the other goes to the neutral switch and must be grounded to engage. YOU CAN NOT USE AN AUTOMOTIVE SOLENOID FOR THIS, THEY GROUND THROUGH THE BASE. Maybe they're not the same. somebody know?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #117 on:** February 24, 2011, 06:46:03 AM »

It's not the same Jerry. If the remote solenoid is the one that I think it is there is no ground wire on it and does ground through the mounting bracket. My 3.7 engine uses the same type. It instead also has a purple/yellow wire on it going to the ignition coil to bypass the resistance wire when cranking the engine so the coil receives full power to maintain spark. I've notated Red's pic below.

Jerry · « **Reply #118 on:** February 24, 2011, 08:26:45 AM »

How do you get neutral safety then?

dorelse · « **Reply #119 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:16:11 AM »

In the schematic I posted, it shows the starter solenoid grounding through the base,which is how mine is set up.