Author Topic: V172.....Need More Power! (Read 65036 times)

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #20 on:** November 26, 2011, 12:24:07 PM »

The small hub props for the in-line Mercury sixs are 4 1/4" in diameter and the sterndrive large hubs are 4 3/4" in diameter. Your stern drive prop should work on the V-6 150 HP Mercury. Since the 17" pitch was for pontoon use, you may need a higher pitch than this. Dans Discount Boat Propellers sells Mercury aluminum props for about $100. There is a new 21" Mercury stainless steel on Craigslist for $150.

http://www.dansdiscountprops.com/BuyNow/Quicksilver.cfm

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/2715954911.html

Otherwise if you wait until spring, Supreme motors may let you test some out or I may know someone who has a collection of Mercury props for a V-6.

Jason · « **Reply #21 on:** November 26, 2011, 12:40:55 PM »

RIP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2ULzohkTkU

Jerry · « **Reply #22 on:** November 26, 2011, 01:32:00 PM »

Derby Boat!!

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #23 on:** November 26, 2011, 02:11:13 PM »

Watch Jason's youtube for the destruction of a Viking pontoon

Watch Sunday TV for the self destruction of the Viking's football platoon

Jerry · « **Reply #24 on:** November 26, 2011, 03:01:39 PM »

seen em both. don't look much different.

V153 · « **Reply #25 on:** November 26, 2011, 03:52:16 PM »

Yo Jason. Why not scrap out the rubrail, railing, swim platform tubing, etc before ya drag it off to the dump. You might have $100 bucks or so there? Just a thought.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 26, 2011, 03:59:08 PM »

Now you tell me.

Jerry · « **Reply #27 on:** November 26, 2011, 04:52:20 PM »

Guess Doug didn't watch the video.

TomLund · « **Reply #28 on:** November 27, 2011, 06:44:13 PM »

Hey Jason what did that cost to unload that boat and that was a pretty good video

Tom

Jason · « **Reply #29 on:** November 28, 2011, 12:15:20 PM »

$93 per ton.

This was a heavy 19' Deck boat. That little yellow turd you got in the front yard would not be over 800lbs so about $40. Just pull all the metal out of it and bring that to the scrap yard for $$$!

Terry_Curran · « **Reply #30 on:** November 29, 2011, 04:38:39 PM »

Quote from: 74GlasCarlSS on November 28, 2011, 12:15:20 PM

$93 per ton.

This was a heavy 19' Deck boat. That little yellow turd you got in the front yard would not be over 800lbs so about $40. Just pull all the metal out of it and bring that to the scrap yard for $$$!

my boat "water ready" weighs in at about 3380 with a spare prop, small tool box and half a tank of fuel. 30 gal tank.

brochure says 'approximate weight is 1750.

http://www.classicglastron.com/1986_Glastron_SSV191.html

Terry

Jason · « **Reply #31 on:** November 29, 2011, 08:48:05 PM »

Sounds about right. Mine weighed in at 2000lbs w/o trailer, engine, gas tank, ect. Glastrons are built lighter than the average boat.

Jason · « **Reply #32 on:** December 12, 2011, 11:10:50 PM »

Little update and a question.

Old motor is off an now on the stand.
Old transom holes filled and gel-coated.
New motor mounted.
Steering linkage modified.
Cables attached
Power trim all hooked up. I actually had to swap trim pumps too.
Wiring is just about done with exception to the tach. I would like to keep my original 1967 tach in the boat. The picture shows how it was originally hooked up. The wires were all crusty. Same with the old ignition switch. I had to replace that too. Anyway, The wiring harness for the new engine has a grey wire coming out of it which connects to the rectifier on the engine. I thought the old motor was the same way. Looks like the old engine was wired so that it has a 12V supply to the tach when the key was turned on. I am not sure on the other old wire. Think I can just hook up the grey wire in the new wiring harness to where the crusty white wire was attached?

I'll get more pictures of the install soon. Still have to get the new impeller installed then it's off to the river!

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #33 on:** December 13, 2011, 08:51:05 AM »

I do not know much about electronics. I wanted to use my old 70's tachometer on the 88' motor, but the old tach connects to the battary, and the new one uses the charging system. My old tach is the 1970's square faced tach which for one year was made for the 88 Merc ADI system, but are rare now ($200) if you can find one. I've decided to go with the instruments with the 88' Merc.

Jason, here are some suggestions:

1. Type in your tach part number into Google and see if you come up with any wiring diagrams
2. Call Joe Poole at Ferguson-Poole for answers
3. Call the parts dept. at Supreme motors. Allen, the owner, knows electronics.

Mercury uses color coded wires:

http://www.mercuryracing.com/techcorners/outboardfaqs.php

Black All Ground
Brown Reference Electrode MerCathode System
Orange Anode Electrode MerCathode System
Lt. Blue/White Stripe Trim UP Switch
Lt. Green/White Stripe Trim DOWN Switch
Brown/White Stripe Trim Sender to Trim Gauge
Purple/White Stripe Trim "Trailer" Switch
Gray Tachometer Signal
Black/Yellow Stripe Shorting or Stop Circuit
Pink Fuel Sender to Gauge
Red Unprotected Wire from Battery
Red/Purple Stripe Protected (Fused) Wire from Battery
Red/Purple Stripe Protected (12 Volt +) to Trim Panel Control
Purple Ignition (Switch) to 12 Volt Positive
Tan Temperature Switch to Warning Horn
Tan Temperature Sender to Temperature Gauge
Tan/Blue Stripe Temperature Switch to Warning Horn
Yellow Starter Solenoid to Starter Motor
Yellow Starter to Regulator (Charging Circuit)
Yellow/Red Stripe Start Switch to Start Solenoid to Neutral Start Switch
Yellow/Black Stripe Choke (Enrichener System)
Green with Color Stripe Switch Box to Coil - Striped and Numbered
White/Black Stripe Bias Circuit (Switch Boxes)

Jason · « **Reply #34 on:** December 13, 2011, 09:08:06 AM »

I got a manual which shows wiring diagrams for these things. They were hooked up a bunch of different ways and each tach varied a little bit depending on the motor. Not very descriptive though. "connect brown wire here" "connect black wire here" just does not say what those wires ARE or where they come from! Looks like it was kind of wired like yours Dave where it uses the battery to determine RPM's. You have 12V to the one terminal. Not sure where the white wire went but it has a resistor to ground.

I have another tach. Maybe I'll just put that one in for now as that one for sure uses the signal wire from the rectifier. Adventually I'll figure out how to make this old one work. Was Just curious if anyone knew of a way to make it work.......

I don't want to fry out any control boxes or anything expensive on this motor!

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #35 on:** December 13, 2011, 09:20:36 AM »

Steve Ackermann might know, part of his job is rigging boats.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #36 on:** December 13, 2011, 09:32:44 AM »

If the old engine had 12v power to the lower left terminal and the tach signal to the center terminal under the light bulb then I see no reason why you can't keep it connected this way with the newer engine. You can take a 12v feed from the key switch or other gauges so the tach powers up when the key is turned on, just connect the gray wire from the harness to the center terminal for the tach. The casing is supposed to be ground so therefore there should be a ground wire connected to the case terminal or mounting lug of the holding bracket. The light is powered either with an accessory light switch or from the key switch.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #37 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:40:52 AM »

Jason, perhaps you could tell us how you capped the transom holes with gelcoat, along with pictures.

Jason · « **Reply #38 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:28:12 PM »

Rich, notice the resistor from the signal wire to ground? Think that will mess things up with the new motor?

Dave, thanks for the list of Mercury's color coding!

Yep, pictures to come.

Basically drilled holes to 1/2 diamter (bolts were 3/8) so i had nice clean wood to adhere to in the hole. cut 1/2 wood dowels to length. coated with marine epoxy and pounded them in. Then covered with a few layers of gelcoat. I had 6 bolts to do from the old engine plus 2 more from the old trim pump. then I took 2 more out near the top from the old ski bar that mounted there. I also put in a alum plate on the inside of the transom between the two new engine bolts. I also put a temporary plate that spans the upper two bolts. At some point I'll get a nicely machined plate here. I still have more work to do on the "visible" patched areas but am just trying to get it water ready at the moment for a test run. Engine needs quite a bit of Dave's polishing too!

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #39 on:** December 13, 2011, 01:56:35 PM »

I'm guessing the resistor is only there for protection against spikes/over voltage but don't think it will be a concern. Try it with the component in place, if it works and you get a proper reading and correct charge voltage at the battery then leave it alone. If it doesn't work disconnect the resistor and try it again.