Author Topic: GT150 progress (Read 74857 times)

thedeuceman · « **on:** July 09, 2012, 11:14:12 PM »

first thanks for all the advice in my introduction.
well after lots of car fixing, work travel, cleaning the garage, and family fun time.
i have the hull in garage, and started grinding, so i have a few questions.
should i, or do i need to grind all of the old layers down to the hull.
also there is lots filler around the edges of where the floor was, should i grind all of this out too
thanks

thedeuceman · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2012, 11:28:23 PM »

more info, the above photo is a close up, here is 1 further back, the light green color is all filler as it seems the original floor was smaller than the space, i think it was also to make the transition smooth, it was under the floor glass.
here is a photo that shows more, and also one of my giant dust collector, it picks up almost all of the dust

WetRaider · « **Reply #2 on:** July 10, 2012, 12:08:18 AM »

Had this work been done on your boat by a previous owner? As far as I could tell, there wasn't any filler in my GT 150. For me, I put a 4-1/2 inch 36 grit flap-wheel on my grinder once I got everything rough cut away. You want a pretty smooth surface to adhere your new fiberglass to - a chewed up surface will lift your wet work up and allow air bubbles.

The picture below shows how I had sanded the hull before setting a bed & outside stringers. I did leave a little channel for the keel, but the outside was smooth. I took this picture before finishing up on the upper right side. I mixed loose strand & resin to pack the gap under the new transom. Vertically, where the corner boxes were built out, you can see how my rough cuts looked. I used a Rigid Job Max tool with the rounded flush-cut attachment. I felt safer using that than a grinder wheel slicing through things at 30,000 rpm.

MarkS · « **Reply #3 on:** July 10, 2012, 04:34:21 AM »

re: Filler around floor - Mine had the same situation Deuce. (Not sure if it was original, or had been previously "reworked".) I ground it back a little to allow fresh bedding for the new floor to ensure a good bond, but if it was still in good condition and bonded to the hull I left it in place. If there was any cracking or lifting from the hull I ground it out.

You want the final surface to be flat or flowing before you try to lay down cloth, biax, or whatever. Like Dan stated the 36 grit flapper wheel leaves a good surface for the material to "bite to".

Just my humble amateur two cents worth, hope it helps.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #4 on:** July 10, 2012, 10:05:41 PM »

thanks guys, those pix are vary helpful.
i guess im on the right track, ill just keep makin dust.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2012, 09:57:23 PM »

well grinding in 90+ deg weather is fun...
but dust collector rev 1.1 helped lots, im on my third shirt, at about 5lbs of dust per
i ended up grinding out all the old mat that had been holding the floor/stringers in, i forund many quarter size bubbles under it.
it appears the transom was attached with some vary hard filler, i will grind it off tomorrow

WetRaider · « **Reply #6 on:** July 16, 2012, 08:21:50 AM »

That looks real good. You should have a great surface for adhering your new glass, now.

Your dust collector looks fun. I just hung my leaf blower from an a-frame ladder and turned it on high. Gave me a breeze while working in the heat & carried the dust away from me before I could breath any of it. Sweating in a face mask sucks.

V153 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2012, 05:15:01 PM »

Ya the green stuff is purty much in there for life. Dunno what it is but it's some badazz sh*t! You can grind it out I spose but why bother. Scuff it up real good'n feather it in.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #8 on:** July 17, 2012, 10:10:21 PM »

well... for better or worse, i ground all the white filler off the transom (was between the wood and the glass on the back)
the stuff was a half inch thick in some spots, it looked like plastic filler but it was vary hard. had lots of cracks in it.
now just feather the holes in the transom and some cleanup with a flap wheel and done grinding.
now for a week of patterns and cutting !

thedeuceman · « **Reply #9 on:** July 20, 2012, 11:36:52 PM »

well i got he transom and center stringer cut, still need final fitting.
cut from 11 ply with the stringer lapped as 8' was too short

thedeuceman · « **Reply #10 on:** July 22, 2012, 10:11:21 PM »

transom, stringers, cross braces, knee braces cut and fit.
not as fancy as the work of MarkS, but i think it will do, but im conflicted about bedding.
some say make resin paste, some say PL ....some say anything that leaves a space between stringer and hull.
planing on using poly resin and cloth and mat to hold it all together.
thanks in advance for advice

thedeuceman · « **Reply #11 on:** July 24, 2012, 11:02:55 AM »

brought this V173 home last night, intention is/was to put 115 on the GT
question is, if i do should i change the direction im going here ?
thanks

MarkS · « **Reply #12 on:** July 24, 2012, 02:40:34 PM »

Change direction as in

? Not sure I understand. I can tell you not to put the drain hole for the splash well in the middle if you're going to run an OMC V4 with PT&T! (Yup, it's blocked by the motor).

Jason · « **Reply #13 on:** July 24, 2012, 02:42:39 PM »

Quote from: MarkS on July 24, 2012, 02:40:34 PM

Change direction as in ? Not sure I understand. I can tell you not to put the drain hole for the splash well in the middle if you're going to run an OMC V4 with PT&T! (Yup, it's blocked by the motor).

Yea, I found that out to when swapping over from the inline merc 6 to the V6. I had to drill a hole through the mounting plate on the motor for the water to drain. Not sure if you can do that on the OMC.

Lookslike with the added gussets that your transom should be strong enough to support the extra weight/power.

WetRaider · « **Reply #14 on:** July 24, 2012, 03:41:12 PM »

Deuce, I've got a '76 Merc 1150 on the back of my GT 150.

No problem at all for me with the weight. My transom had delaminated (or, rather, had not been laminated at all beyond a squirt of liquid nails) and that was the reason for my rebuild this spring. I'm 100% confident that my re-build was done sufficiently to support the motor. I may be wrong, but I believe the weight of my 1150 is somewhere around 330-340 lbs.

fireman24mn · « **Reply #15 on:** July 24, 2012, 04:30:35 PM »

Deuce
I was wondering if you got all your materials yet. I just picked up some of mine today and will probably need to get some more. I was really wondering if you had got any Cabosil yet. It is used to thicken the resin so it doesn't run when tabbing in the stringers (if you didn't know what it is) If you haven't let me know and we could split a bag it would probably save us both some money. I live in Mahtomedi so not far from you at all. And don't buy all the resin at fleet farm I need some to because it is the cheapest place I found it. Dam why did I tell him that. I got to quit typing my thoughts.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #16 on:** July 24, 2012, 06:17:45 PM »

sorry for the vague post, the direction question was if the added braces were enough to support the bigger motor, sounds like thats good.
fireman, i did not know that (yet) so thanks and yea sounds like a good plan.
and thanks all for the tip on the drain, i would have missed that for sure.

MarkS · « **Reply #17 on:** July 24, 2012, 07:31:34 PM »

The hull (and transom) was originally rated for 90 hp Deuce, an 85/115 hp V4 weighs in (about the same I think) around 280 something pounds with manual trim, 318 lbs (or something close) with Power T&T. There's not much difference in weight really, and IMHO the torque would be a similar equation. (Not that far off.) Since we're going back with fresh wood, and 'glassing it in properly (probably better than originally done), I don't believe it's going to be an issue. The added "knees" or gussets should help handle the additional HP.

That's what makes this "support group" so great, sharing tips and tricks and previous blunders to help others afflicted with the same addiction!

PS - It looks to me like the OMC's have a "manifold" (internal passageway?) for the trim fluid running through that part of the mount Jason, I was afraid to drill into it and find out! Someone suggested spacing the motor off the transom to allow it to drain, but the motor is already mounted and the bolts are sealed with thickened epoxy to make sure no water gets in there. I'm adding another drain hole off to the side.?

fireman24mn · « **Reply #18 on:** July 24, 2012, 09:36:28 PM »

Quote from: thedeuceman on July 24, 2012, 06:17:45 PM

fireman, i did not know that (yet) so thanks and yea sounds like a good plan.

a bag has about 11 gallons and it is 65 for it If you just buy it buy the gallon it is 15.00 a gallon sound like on average you use about 3-6 gallons. If you want let me know I will get it and we can meet up some time.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #19 on:** July 26, 2012, 10:02:34 PM »

stringer and transom glued together with resin ans 1.5oz mat
many bolt holes patched in transom