Author Topic: Carlson interior (Read 49124 times)

fireman24mn · « **Reply #40 on:** January 25, 2013, 11:41:12 AM »

I just built one for my 23 on wed. night I will get some photos posted in my 23 rebuild thread this weekend

GIL_CV21 · « **Reply #41 on:** January 25, 2013, 11:55:48 AM »

here is a simple cradle i built for my CV21 which is highly modifiable to add supports for stringer replacement etc. the good part about it is there is plenty of room to move underneath
i know some of you guys are following my painfully slow rebuild over at the main site but here is the link to my rebuild thread.
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2209

ignore the broken straps on the ground to the right

i modified it to flip her over very soon

GCarlover · « **Reply #42 on:** January 25, 2013, 01:10:47 PM »

Who is Frisco Boater? Can't find him under search. Yesterady found Hyperacme's Powerboat Mag boat tests on cvx 16's and cvx 18. Greg, you can tell where to find it. Interestingly the CVX 18 in 77 had a 302 CI 888 drive producing 188 hp. Top end around 50. Later they used a 260 hp V8; should run around 60 mph. Anyone else have these? (CVX 18) They are very nice. I saw Eric Michael's from Oregon. I think he sold it.

dorelse · « **Reply #43 on:** January 25, 2013, 01:20:33 PM »

friscoboater is on classicglastron (a bit), mostly iboats.com, youtube & facebook.

He's rebuilt 3 boats, an '80s Glastron, a SeaRay, and now the CVX-18 is his latest project. He documents everything, including his mistakes (buying the Sea Ray thinking it was perfect, then finding out it was a disaster).

Very good way to learn.

75starflight · « **Reply #44 on:** January 25, 2013, 01:22:49 PM »

too my knowledge Frisco Boater is a guy that restores boats and post videos of him doing just that on Youtube.

there are a few CVX-18 owners on here. The ones that I can recall are still_fishin(tim), fireman24mn(shawn), and carlsoncvx18(Jeff)

Then you have the CVZ-18s which are very similar other than they have an open bow. dorsle(Doran) and myself(Brandon)

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #45 on:** January 25, 2013, 02:15:23 PM »

You can add me to your list of CVX18 owners.

p.s. how do you resize these pics in photobucket? I've tried the edit button but can't seem to get these pics any smaller.

75starflight · « **Reply #46 on:** January 25, 2013, 02:36:03 PM »

John, from my experience no matter how you resize them photobucket will size it itself when you use the copy link to post them.

BTW, nice looking CVX-18 looks to be faded about the same as my CVZ

Crebb · « **Reply #47 on:** January 25, 2013, 02:39:56 PM »

I have watched most of friscoboaters videos. I'll go with his cradle design, looks easy to reset the struts and rails for the JetFlight later. gcarlover, you can see Frisco all over the place. Go to youtube and put friscoboater in the search bar. Same thing with iboat and, he has a website friscoboater.com I like watching his stuff but he talks so much you have to FF to get to the meat of the video. The info is good but I feel better blending it with input from you guys.
Crebb

Crebb · « **Reply #48 on:** January 25, 2013, 03:36:51 PM »

Hey John, what's behind the CVX there? Looks just like a 1988 Wellcraft I used to have. I sold it to a guy from Chicago. Here's a pix:

Crebb · « **Reply #49 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:43:58 PM »

Well, I'm into the nuts and bolts of it now and I need your input again. Decided to modify the trailer for support of the hull after the cap is off. Got a plan for another set of rails on the outboard chines and extending the short ones on the inner run. The keel is not touching the rollers now anyway and the trailer is easy to move around and the height is easy to work on. Also gives pretty good access to the bottom as things go on. Got the gas tank all disconnected and cut the thin glass on three struts supporting the bow deck. Rub rails all off and she's all loose except the transom.

there is a lot of glass connecting the lid to the hull at the transom, more than I was thinking. What do I do here? Do I really cut the cap off the Transom? I don't see any other way. Then there is about 6" of the splash well glassed right to the transom. This looks like a challenge. I started with my occilating tool but that ain't going nowhere, worked great on the thin glass of the deck supports. Have a roto-zip but didn't try it yet. I don't have a grinder, am I getting one? If so, what is the wheel of choice for cutting fiberglass. Here's some pix which I know you have all seen before.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #50 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:59:50 PM »

on my GT150 the back of the splashwell was cut out when i got it (PO started the restoration)
i remade that that part with several layers of biax, but mine was painted so its not as hard to fix as gel with flake.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #51 on:** January 27, 2013, 09:22:32 PM »

Quote

Hey John, what's behind the CVX there? Looks just like a 1988 Wellcraft I used to have. I sold it to a guy from Chicago. Here's a pix:

Crebb, you're close it's a '86 260 aft cabin that belongs to a guy I work with. Did new engine bunks and another 350. Old one had several cracks in the block. Boat was from Virginia Beach.

Brandon, thanks for the heads up on photobucket. I kept thinking I was doing something wrong. As for the faded flake I'm not sure what I'll do with it yet. There is a hole and a cracked spot in the deck where the boat investigated the underside of a dock for the PO. I know the repair won't match up to the rest of the finish if I try to rub it out.

Crebb · « **Reply #52 on:** January 28, 2013, 09:49:15 PM »

No work on the carlson tonight, had to do my real job. We got about 5" of heavy wet snow last night and then started raining and going to be 40 deg tomorrow. Spent the night on the tractor scraping all the parking lots before "mushville". But, had time to think about the issues. Now that I have the deck ready to come off realized it has to stay on till I get the floor done to keep hull shape. So, I will put the screws back in and get busy on the floor I guess. You guys got any tricks for getting the carpet off the floor? I think I'll try the Rockwell vibrator tool with a smooth blade. Sure to be back with more questions. This gives time to figure out how to cut that splashwell loose from the deck. I just can't figure this out without trashing this beautiful glass in the splashwell area. I could cut the top of the transom off and cover it with aluminum c-channel but that doesn't get me very far with about 6" of the back wall of the splashwell glassed to the transom. I looked through some of the archived threads to se if I could find something on this. All outboards with this design of splashwell would have this problem. Maybe it's simpler than I am making it but I looked at a 79' CVX16 a few weeks ago that had the transom replaced and they just cut the whole back of the splashwell out and redid the glass and gelcoat with white. It looks like??? something that would not be acceptable. I came up with a grinder so I bought 2 thicknesses of masonry cutoff wheels for it. Is that right?
Thanks
Crebb

MarkS · « **Reply #53 on:** January 29, 2013, 04:59:25 AM »

Crebb, it may take a little longer - and a few extra blades - but the oscillating tool would be the way to go with the separation of the splashwell from the transom IMHO. It will do a lot less damage to the deck, and make a lot less of a mess. On the underside keep the (half moon) blade parallel with the transom and flat against it, work slowly all the way around the "U". (Third pic above). It should only be sealed along the edge. Up on the top of the transom, I'd work the (plunge cut) blade in under the glass lip of the deck - side by side plunge cuts until you've made your way across. Helpful hint: mark the blade with the maximum depth you want to cut with tape on the blade so you don't cut into the back wall of the splashwell.

You can do the same thing with a grinder and cutoff wheel, but chance for error is much greater since it removes material much faster! It also creates a cloud of fiberglass dust that makes it hard to see what you're doing. I don't have any experience with the roto-zip tool, you might check with Rich (nat'l site and comes by here once in a while) who has one. Hope This Helps, wish I were closer to come over and give you a hand!

Crebb · « **Reply #54 on:** February 10, 2013, 05:50:29 PM »

Thanks Mark, your description is very helpful. Now after spending some time under there I get how to cut it off. Been out of town all last week so just got a chance to play again today. Got the floor out up to the front bulkhead. I can't believe how rotten this thing was / is. Boat lost a lot of weight today. There was not one square inch of floor that was not rotten, just soaking wet and been in a heated garage since Sept. When I cut the first section of floor out there was 2" of water still in the bottom, foam soaking wet. What a mess. Anyway, got the floor out today and got some questions, as usual. This boat just has one stringer down the center, the outboard edges of the floor sit on the chines. How can I replace this stringer all the way up under the front deck without taking the deck off? Do it in two sections? How do you splice it? Can't get that front bulkhead out of the way and the gas tank without taking the deck off. Plus the bulkhead is helping to hold the shape of the hull while the floor is out. Sure would be easier to pull the deck and do all the glass work at once. But, everything I see says not to take the floor and the deck out at the same time. Here's some pictures I hope. Always have trouble posting them.
Thanks,

Hyperacme · « **Reply #55 on:** February 10, 2013, 06:25:00 PM »

I'm with you on pullin' the deck ...
BUT ...
It's the only way to do it right !
You could put 2x4 braces from side to side to help hold shape.

Could you take some picture of your C500 emblem on your dash ?
Have had people ask about it over the years.
Think you could send the HI RES. shots to my email ?
It's in my profile.
Many Thanks ...

V153 · « **Reply #56 on:** February 11, 2013, 04:00:11 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on February 10, 2013, 06:25:00 PM

Could you take some picture of your C500 emblem on your dash?

Yes! Purty please ...? (Mine's shot.)

Crebb · « **Reply #57 on:** February 13, 2013, 02:18:48 PM »

I sent you guys the pix of the C-500 dash today, hope they are ok. I took your advice and going to yank the lid off and do all the glass work together. Built the cradle the last two nights and popped it in there last night. Just have one set of bunks to start and next I will custom fit another set right at the outside edges of the hull bottom to hold it tighter before any more disassembly. Am I on the right track here? I foolishly pulled the straps out from under it that I used to lift it. Guess I'll put them back after the deck is off and it will be lighter. I'll need to order some fiberglass materials soon. Where to go? there is no place to buy this stuff in my little town. Fiberglasssite.com, Fiberglassuply.com, uscomposites.com and suggestions?
Thanks.

Jason · « **Reply #58 on:** February 13, 2013, 02:35:56 PM »

I love your Glastron Cave!

Express Composites in MPLS is where most of us get out fiberglass and gelcoat stuff and we all can't say enough good things about those guys. They ship too.

http://www.expresscomposites.com/

Crebb · « **Reply #59 on:** February 13, 2013, 07:16:48 PM »

The "Glastron Cave" is a double edged sword. It is one of my warehouse units that I have not been able to rent for the last two years. The water for everything goes through it so I have to heat it anyway. This winter I thought the surest way to get a tenant would be to put my stuff in there and start a project and someone would come along and put me out. Still waiting and sure loving the space, could get kicked to the curb anytime, bring it. I am coming to Minneapolis Monday to babysit my granddaughter for the week. I could pick up some fiberglass stuff and save the shipping. The thing is, I have never touched fiberglass and don't know what to get. Sorry to keep leaning on you guys but

?? I can reciprocate with some advice on other stuff. I am a licensed Master Plumber and Mechanical Contractor and Builder and class B Boiler Installer. So if anyone has any questions about any of that, I can help. You have all sure been nice to me. Thanks