Author Topic: Mercruiser 140 rebuild (Read 47909 times)

75starflight · « **Reply #60 on:** April 10, 2014, 01:20:39 PM »

I will be drilling out the valve cover mounting holes this evening before I paint it so I can use 5/16" socket head screw.

So this is how I came up with the idea.

While I was trying to make some step down studs at work to fit the cover one of the mechanics asked what I was doing. So I explained to him and he said why don't you just get some socket head cap screws, the round head should fit and it would still keep a clean look. I had never thought of that! So I thanked him and went to our hardware vendor here at work and placed a order for 5, 5/16 x 5/8" bolts. should be here by mid morning tomorrow.

I will be doing the valve lash this evening and mounting the carb if I get that far. Wish me Luck!

75starflight · « **Reply #61 on:** April 10, 2014, 08:34:16 PM »

I missed painting a couple parts but that can get done Saturday.

The block is now painted and and the valve lash is done. Hopefully she will be running by the end of the weekend. Weather permitting of course.

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Jason · « **Reply #62 on:** April 11, 2014, 12:34:45 PM »

NICE!

75starflight · « **Reply #63 on:** April 12, 2014, 12:51:42 PM »

The 140 is now in her old school kicks. I think she looks pretty good! I might sand and polish the distributor this afternoon just to keep the clean look.

My goal for this evening is to get everything buttoned up. And if its not raining tomorrow, I am going to light her up in the afternoon.

Wish me luck!

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MarkS · « **Reply #64 on:** April 13, 2014, 04:43:18 AM »

Looks pretty spiffy Brandon, nice work! (When's the last time your heard that word?!)

Plugcheck · « **Reply #65 on:** April 13, 2014, 09:08:52 AM »

Looks good, cant wait to hear it run. I especially like the custom all black Mercury Racing sparkplugs, should be good for an extra 1/2 MPH. He He.

75starflight · « **Reply #66 on:** April 13, 2014, 12:34:23 PM »

I have a question, if I prime the oil system today but don't start it will I need to prime it again if I let it sit a couple days? I really don't want to expose the engine to temps in the 20s to 30s during break in.

Jerry · « **Reply #67 on:** April 13, 2014, 12:43:58 PM »

Quote from: 75starflight on April 13, 2014, 12:34:23 PM

I have a question, if I prime the oil system today but don't start it will I need to prime it again if I let it sit a couple days? I really don't want to expose the engine to temps in the 20s to 30s during break in.

Really?

75starflight · « **Reply #68 on:** April 13, 2014, 01:23:01 PM »

Quote from: Jerry on April 13, 2014, 12:43:58 PM

Quote from: 75starflight on April 13, 2014, 12:34:23 PM
I have a question, if I prime the oil system today but don't start it will I need to prime it again if I let it sit a couple days? I really don't want to expose the engine to temps in the 20s to 30s during break in.

Really?

Yes Jerry, it was 44 degrees and raining when I got up this.morning. it is now 34 degrees and its snowing. Supposed to be 25 by 6pm and the wind is blowing 40mph. Gotta love living in Nebraska, it was 80 degrees here yesterday and 68 when we got home at 4am this morning.

75starflight · « **Reply #69 on:** April 13, 2014, 01:29:42 PM »

Its only been snowing 15 minutes and its already building up in the grass! Ugh!

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75starflight · « **Reply #70 on:** April 13, 2014, 09:13:45 PM »

After getting 3 inches of snow I decided to take my time and button up the 140 and double check everything I could. So tomorrow night I will be firing the 140 up for the first time. Wish me luck!

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75starflight · « **Reply #71 on:** April 15, 2014, 08:26:34 PM »

Well I tried starting the 140 up this evening to do the cam break in with no success. She popped at me a couple times but she would not fire. I have set and reset the distributor so the rotor faces the #1 cylinder and post at TDC at 0 degrees. I am calling it a night and I am going to wait for the weekend to try again. I am thinking that it is where I am setting my rotor at but I am unsure at this point. Any advice would be appricated.

Jason · « **Reply #72 on:** April 15, 2014, 08:39:32 PM »

You at #1 TDC on compression stroke or exhaust? I bet your 180 off. Make sure you got spark ?

75starflight · « **Reply #73 on:** April 15, 2014, 08:55:45 PM »

Yep I checked spark, and I did reverse it 180° that is when I had the best results. I am wondering if it is spinning fast enough to start.

75starflight · « **Reply #74 on:** April 15, 2014, 09:16:11 PM »

I am going to pull the push rod cover tomorrow and make sure I am on the #1 compression stroke. Also, I have a question, should I be able to do a compression test on a newly built engine and get pressure readings? I tried my compression tester and did not get any readings on my gauge.

Jerry · « **Reply #75 on:** April 15, 2014, 09:40:14 PM »

unless the valves aren't closing you should have perfect compression. Maybe you should pull the valve cover. Maybe you have solid lifters adjusted for hydraulics? Can you blow air into the cylinders?

75starflight · « **Reply #76 on:** April 15, 2014, 10:03:45 PM »

Quote from: Jerry on April 15, 2014, 09:40:14 PM

unless the valves aren't closing you should have perfect compression. Maybe you should pull the valve cover. Maybe you have solid lifters adjusted for hydraulics? Can you blow air into the cylinders?

I was wondering if the valves are staying open. I heard some hissing through the exhaust which sounded like cylinder compression releasing through the exhaust. Maybe I have my valve lash adjustment off. I followed the instructions in my manual to the T. I wonder if I over did it and it is causing the valves to hang open? I will have to try blowing air into the cylinders to see if they are leaking.

I have one more question, in my book it said to do the valve lash to spin the pushrod as you tighten the rocker until the push rod stops spinning and then tighten it three quarter turn. Is this the correct procedure?

75starflight · « **Reply #77 on:** April 15, 2014, 10:40:19 PM »

I just want to thank those of you that posted with ideas and thoughts on how to solve my issues with this build. You have confirmed my thoughts and reinstilled confondance in my abilities. Thank you my friends, thank you!

Plugcheck · « **Reply #78 on:** April 15, 2014, 10:47:28 PM »

Did ya find something wrong? Yes, even a brand new engine will pass a compression and leak down test. Your procedure of tightening the rocker arm while spinning the pushrod is sound, but a recheck of the lash is recomended after first heat soak

Jerry · « **Reply #79 on:** April 16, 2014, 01:48:04 AM »

You may have the lifters collapsed now. I go by overlap (Exhaust close/intake open) when #4 is on overlap adj #1. bring the rockers down to zero, then 3/4 turn. the push-rods may be a bad indicator of zero lash. then the rest 2 overlap do 3, 1 overlap do 4, 3 overlap do 2. Overlap happens at TDC exhaust stroke, the opposite cyl is TDC compression. (Use that to set the dist. in the right place) when #4 is on overlap it's firing #1.