Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: eta1091 on April 09, 2013, 10:14:25 AM
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Hello all, I wanted to update and show some progress. Thank God its been a snow storm, for I have additional time to continue my rebuild before the ice melts. I sure enjoy this site, what a great deal someone has put ALOT of effort into this site. THANK YOU!
I have included pictures of when I dragged my glastron home last july, and today as I am continuing the refurbish.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/eta1091sTimmy81-3_zps2b903c25.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/eta1091sTimmy81-2_zps31984b32.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/eta1091sTimmy81-1_zps31a08547.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/eta1091sTimmy81-4_zps6c8eedbb.jpg)
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Looking good! Seats look excellent! Just out of curiosity...where do you boat up there?
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we have many lakes up here in Alaska. we personally go to Big Lake (25) mile circumference, lake Lucille and beaver lake. summer up here starts around may and ends around august, the best part is june and july, the sun goes down around 11pm and comes back up around 2 am. it doesn't get dark per say, just dim.
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does anybody know how many intimidators were produced?
I just found out from OLERED.com my intimidator is actually a 1981. which was sold in 1983 to my dad.
I am looking for a brochure to print up also.
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I heard all the old production numbers were destroyed in a fire. Would sure be nice to have.
You can see your factory brochure here: http://www.cgoamn.com/53.html (http://www.cgoamn.com/53.html)
I bet boating in Alaska would be a lot of fun. Very beautiful. and when you can boat 24 hours a day, even better!
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Thanks for the info. Yes it is a beautiful season to enjoy the long long day.
Does anybody know if the intimidator hood hinge bolts directly to the rear seatback?
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Tim has a timmy and could give you info, once he logs in and see this thread
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Just moved this over the General Topics since this is really a good thread for everyone to see!
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Love the choice for the interior. Looks a lot better then the original stuff.
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If I remember correctly from working on my brothers Intimidator yes the hood bolts to the rear of the seat just like a CVX18. Looks like someone updated the old log exhaust manifolds at some point.
Nice boat BTW!
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I sent you an email with larger pictures of logo ...
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Hey Eugene
Yes, the hood hinge on Barb's intimidator was screwed to the back of the seat as it came, making it pretty difficult to remove the back seat, so we changed that, now it's screwed to the cross brace behind the seat.
Glad you got the run on your new motor, looks good too. Those manifolds have a striking resemblance to the EMI manifolds, which are a dry joint style, but it looks like to me that the thermostat housing is designed for a wet joint style, or did we talk about that ?
I'm kinda partial to the Edlebrock carbs, especially the thunder series, because they are so easy to tune, but there is nothing wrong with running a Holly, but they are a bit more difficult to change the jets if you want to change it's performance aspect, more-so if it's a dual line, just my opinion. The Rochester quadrojet is a good carb also, they been around almost as long as the Carter, but the most common problem with them, rebuilding them, is that the throttle shaft wears sooner than the others, it seems to me, making it difficult to set the low speed needles. Carter became Weber, and Zenith I think before that, but now days the design is produced by Edelbrock. There are two kinds, the performer series is like the old afb, and the thunder series is like the old avs, air valve series, it has a secondary "flapper" above the secondary butterflies, kinda like the quadrojet, easilly adjustable to prevent a "bog" on an immediate full throttle exceleration. The 650 that you ran on the motor already is probly the best carb you have available in my opinion, it's not too big, and with the exhaust, heads and cam you are running, it would produce good power @ 5000 / 5200 rpm.
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Thanks for the info, OLERED I owe you some fish, halibut or salmon. send me an address so I can share some with you. You have been instrumental with me and my Glastron!
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I second that!! He has been my best resource and very patient with my endless questions. It's been a while, I need to call and bug him...lol
Rich
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Aw ... come on Eugene ... surely you got a few of those big ole crawdads up there, just kidding :)
I remember, when I was up there, smoked salmon was most common, and De Lishious, but I had some reservations about buying some I saw split at the tail and hanging over a stick beside a dusty road. I did catch and cook up some salmon though, scraped it slick, discarded the head & guts, stuck a couple cubes of salted butter and a slice of lemon inside it, wrapped it up tight in aluminum foil, layed it on an open grill for a few minutes, was really good .. the meat came off the bones with a fork.
I forgot to post up something about the Collinite you used to polish out the intimidator, I'll post a picture, and you describe what you done with it, I got to try that stuff.
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I was having a issue with the gelcoat losing its shine after buffing. This is my first gelcoat /boat restoration I have taken on. after researching and buying every kind of wax on the market I almost gave up. My last choice was to clearcoat the boat. I wanted to keep the original gelcoat on the boat as much as possible. my gelcoat has plenty of scratch and cracks for sure, but I am willing to have those. I went to west marine to look at some parts and they have a huge selection of waxes. I stumbled across this stuff colinite, another customer was there and he said this was the stuff to buy, so I did purchase.
here is the idea he told me to follow
1- apply the semi hard wax on the boat and LET IT DRY.
using a powered wooly pad start buffing, it will melt and become a hard gloss glaze.
I followed directions and applied to the bow and afterwards I let it sit. previously my shine would be 50% gone the next day, this stuff made it last to this day. I found that having a couple of 3m wool pads available is nice because the wax gums up the pads, switching allows a longer period of buffing. also use a hand sprayer with water after it shines and spray the water on the gelcoat lightly and wow it really shines. I am a rookie and probably repeating the basic steps, but the colinite wax is a very thick wax barrier unlike regular wax. regular wax comes off with the buffer. one thing I noticed, was the pads produce intense static electricity during this process and made the boat a big magnet for the dust to attach to.
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Windshield trim ...
He might sell them ...
** WILL PART OUT**!!16' glastron ski merc 175hp - $1800 (madison
http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/boa/3687456284.html (http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/boa/3687456284.html)
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is the post interchabgeable between cvx 16 and 20?
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I think some one said they were ...
All years and all models ...
Can some one confirm this ?
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Yep, same part.
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If you are going yo be doing a lot if messing around with your motor on the water I suggest getting some hood hinges that come apart. I have them on both of my boats. Just tilt the hood vertical and slide it over and out of the way. There is nothing worse than having to balance on the tail end of a Carlson to figure out what you just broke. I'll find a link in a .
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Found some
http://m.westmarine.com/aHR0cDovL3d3dy53ZXN0bWFyaW5lLmNvbS93ZWJhcHAvd2NzL3N0b3Jlcy9zZXJ2bGV0L1Byb2R1Y3REaXNwbGF5P3Byb2R1Y3RJZD05OTk4NiZjYXRhbG9nSWQ9MTAwMDEmbGFuZ0lkPS0xJnN0b3JlSWQ9MTExNTEmc3RvcmVOdW09NTA2OTImc3ViZGVwdE51bT01MDcwMSZjbGFzc051bT01MDcwMw%3D%3D (http://m.westmarine.com/aHR0cDovL3d3dy53ZXN0bWFyaW5lLmNvbS93ZWJhcHAvd2NzL3N0b3Jlcy9zZXJ2bGV0L1Byb2R1Y3REaXNwbGF5P3Byb2R1Y3RJZD05OTk4NiZjYXRhbG9nSWQ9MTAwMDEmbGFuZ0lkPS0xJnN0b3JlSWQ9MTExNTEmc3RvcmVOdW09NTA2OTImc3ViZGVwdE51bT01MDcwMSZjbGFzc051bT01MDcwMw%3D%3D)
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I have those exact hinges on my CVZ's bow cover...I think I paid $25 for the both pairs on ebay.
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Thanks for the Hinge idea, I am liking that idea! currently my intimidator hinges from the front and seems backwards to me, since if I have to tool on something I will most likely be sitting on the rear seat of the boat. now I can hinge from the rear. Now to install these I should probably put them right inside the risers on the hood, The risers I am talking about are the ones that lead to the exhaust trumpets. should I devise a locking mechanism for the front of the hood, so as to not fly off while driving. I doubt I could ever find another hood. anybody else reverse the hinging point on there hood?
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I would just put them back on the front side where they were. I have the same kind of hinges at Tim posted. It works great. I just open the hood and slide it to the left and off it comes. I do what I need and then slide it back on and close it. Have had it off a few times out on the water.
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anybody else reverse the hinging point on there hood?
I know that its been done, but honestly, Tim & Shawn's method using the slide pin hinges is a win win...front pressure when towing down the road & boating...easy easy access when you need it. I feel a mod coming along.
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hinges for the hood are on the way. Gotta love the internet, and the quick responses for help. Does anyone have a picture of how there Intimidator hinge is mounted (sliding type). on my hood it is butted up to the seat. with a piano hinge that is hidden.
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I am going to work in the villages for a week or so and I wanted to post some pictures of where I am at with my project. good chance I will not have internet access so I will check back in when I return. This winter I completely gutted the engine bay area and rebuilt the structures for the floor and engine mounting pads,all new fiberglass structures, built a new 350 engine using all forged components, 1978 350 block bored 30 over, balanced,extreme marine cam, etc etc, right now I am making my own wiring harness for the whole boat, made new seat and side panels and had them recovered, new fuel tank, electric pump and rubber and steel fuel line, water separator and filter, reinforcements for the bow, new smoked Plexiglas gauge shield, new bilge pumps manual and automatic, new blower motor and all new correct stainless steel bolts, screws, lag bolts etc. still looking for ski tow bar hook, need new gauges and good quality hose for blower. I came across a picture of me in my boat when my dad had it in 1983.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0331_zps643c2519.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0331_zps643c2519.jpg.html)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0500_zps5f8a4013.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0500_zps5f8a4013.jpg.html)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0401_zps8406c2c0.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0401_zps8406c2c0.jpg.html)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0503_zpsaf7f089b.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic2/EugeneTimmy81/IMAG0503_zpsaf7f089b.jpg.html)
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one thing I noticed on the picture of the intimidator is how low to the water the rubrail on the stern of the boat is. I have seen other cvx pictures and it seems that they sit higher out of the water.
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here's a picture of Barb's boat in the water
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I couldn't find any pictures of my Intimidator but here is my 18. Not the best picture but you get the idea. Oh, a word of advice, make sure you get two of the same hinges our it won't go together or come apart. Jeff saw it happen to me.
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That is the most beautiful Intimidator I have ever seen. I think she has a sister in Alaska....lol
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Still fishin that's a good picture, I can duplicate that idea. You have a snazzy boat by the way, I like it.
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Thanks Olered, by the way can you tell me how high the bottom of your seat is from the floor? I have new mounts and my seats seem to be sitting higher then it was and I do not have any reference to original height.
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Tim's timmi:
Glastron Carlson CVX18 VS Intimidator HD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoZEH6Qp5KA#ws)
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1091 Does your floor have water underneath? Looks very low. Don't know if you can check for plugs in the back?
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hello from Rocky Boat. I am on rocky Lake not far from you. Working on my gt-150. We are trying to reseal the shoebox seam to fix a leak and am having the seats redone. Have not figured out how to upload pics from picasa. but wanted to say hello as my lake place is right down the way. Will try and get the pics. have been working on the finish. Can't seem to get it as perfect as all these folks, but the copper flake is beginning to sparkle on my 1979!
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Interestingly enough that picture was from when it was new in 1982-1983. it could have already have water in it. when I went in and replaced the floor this winter there was rot in the sides where the foam was for flotation. there was a solid 6" ice/water on the bottom. it has gone thru a iron reduction diet, and a lot of foam and wood has been replaced with new, so I am hoping for good floatation and durability.
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Old post from "River Daves Place" ...
The Carlson Intimidator was a fun project. I worked at the Carlson plant on Grove Street in Anaheim from 1979-1981 and was part of the development team. We quickly learned that the Jet and Outboard bottom on the CVX 20 wasn't quite right for a stern drive application (5.7 MerCruiser/260HP w/Alpha Drive). Our prototype boat probably went to the water (Golden Avenue in Long Beach back then) nearly a dozen times. We brought along several buckets of "mud" (quick set bondo) and lots of sanding blocks. We'd run the boat, bring it back to the trailer, add or subtract some material on or off the bottom to see if we could pick-up a mile or two and make it handle better. After about a month of testing we had a really good running hull (69-70 mph on radar with 2 people in the boat). Glastron corporate in Austin was a little nervous about selling a 70mph stock boat to the general public so we had to make a couple more bottom revisions to slow it down a tad (top speed of the production version was 65 mph). The CVX 20 was an amazing boat -- at that same time we came out with the "Ski Machine" (CVX 20/outboard) that was a super tournament style boat, especially for serious slalom skiing. And of course, there were a few (2 or 3) custom/handmade CVX 20s that had a "pad" bottom and raced at the Lake Havasu Outboard Classic and the Parker Enduro -- but that's another story.
The minor bottom changes to the Intimidator included adding a little hook to the bottom (the last 3 to 4 feet -- about 1/4") and just slightly reducing the depth of the two lifting strakes closest to the keel so the boat didn't ride quite as high out of the water at top speed. Basically, just wanted to increase wetted hull surface and create more drag. If you really wanted to pick-up speed on a CVX 20, modifying the vee-keel into a true running pad was the trick. Alan Miller, an employee at the Carlson plant in Anaheim did the first one. After that we built several (super lightweight) center steer, pad bottom (no mold) CVX 20s for Mod VP racing. Evinrude supported the effort with some well built/modified 235 HP V-6 engines. Well known Unlimited hydroplane racers Bill Muncey and Chip Hanauer were part of our driving team. When everything was right, these special "race" CVX 20s with a 235 Evinrude were good for about 90-91 mph.
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Bill Muncey's CVX-20 with a 235 HP Evinrude V-6 engine was for sale on the CGOA site a few years ago. It was being prepared for him, even had his name on it, when Bill was killed in a boating accident. Wanted $6,000 for it. The family used it very little. Do not know how the sale of the boat ended. Wonder if the engine was stock or modified.
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3951 (http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3951)