CVX 18 cockpit cover

[Allblueacr]

There must be some brilliant ideas for CVX 18 cockpit covers...
hate to deface hull with the snaps but I don’t have a choice if I’m going to leave a boat on a lift.
Material suggestions? Snap locations that look/work best?
Anybody done the snaps down the beltline rib rail?
Thanks in advance

[CVX Fever]

hate to deface hull with the snaps but I don’t have a choice if I’m going to leave a boat on a lift.

Why not just get a lift with a cover? That's really the best option as the interior can dry out quickly when put away wet and the whole boat is protected from the sun. 

If do go with a cover, I'd skip the cockpit cover and put one on that covers the whole boat. You don't need to have snaps screwed into the boat then. Also cockpit covers put weight/stress on the windshield that it was never designed to hold. Good way to crack or deform it.

[185GXSF-Guy]

FWIW - I keep my boat on a lift under a canopy and I also always use my bow/cockpit cover.  The canopy does a pretty decent job keeping the rain out (but not perfect) and the boat cover keeps out the spiders and other critters.

Prior to my boat restoration, I did have hairline cracks around the snap locations which I just wrote off to a bad install.  After the restoration (three seasons so far) the cracks have not returned.  It could also be that cover has stretched out a bit over the years and isn't putting as much stress on the snap locations.  Or - maybe higher quality gelcoat than what Glastron used at the factory.....but beware!

[catchnedge]

The cockpit covers that snap on are sure convenient to put on/off at the dock, but something I would personally avoid on a classic boat. When I had my cover made for my CVX20, I told them I wanted to use the cover when the boat was in the water overnight or raining, so I built in a couple of design specs... 1. flaps to expose cleats so I could tie up to dock 2. flap to expose bilge outlet in case it goes off 3. put the clip/cinch down point of strap on side (each side) so I can get to it from dock 4. don't build so the cover goes too far down side of boat so it's sitting in water (can't avoid on the stern with the CVX20 though, too close to water so a little sits in water).  I also use a vent pole in center and also placed vents on side to get some air flow for drying.  My cover works good when at the dock or lift.  This is just how I approached it.

Also, the material I used was WeatherMAX... really liked how that wears. Has not faded, is very lightweight (more so than sunbrella, or some others like that) so it's easier to take on/off and roll up and store under bow.

[Allblueacr]

The cockpit covers that snap on are sure convenient to put on/off at the dock, but something I would personally avoid on a classic boat. When I had my cover made for my CVX20, I told them I wanted to use the cover when the boat was in the water overnight or raining, so I built in a couple of design specs... 1. flaps to expose cleats so I could tie up to dock 2. flap to expose bilge outlet in case it goes off 3. put the clip/cinch down point of strap on side (each side) so I can get to it from dock 4. don't build so the cover goes too far down side of boat so it's sitting in water (can't avoid on the stern with the CVX20 though, too close to water so a little sits in water).  I also use a vent pole in center and also placed vents on side to get some air flow for drying.  My cover works good when at the dock or lift.  This is just how I approached it.

Also, the material I used was WeatherMAX... really liked how that wears. Has not faded, is very lightweight (more so than sunbrella, or some others like that) so it's easier to take on/off and roll up and store under bow.

winner winner..
thanks

[CharlieN]

I have made a cover for my CVX 20 that has very little unsightly fasteners, real easy to put on and remove at home or at a dock and is stable when towing hours to an event in any weather condition.
I used Weathermax for the material and retaining and tensioning it is done with Ansteel cord which will retain it's tension wet or dry and through wide temperature ranges.

At the front I added a few tabs to the fasteners at the base of the WS and formed an aluminum bar that is inserted into the front of the cover.



The next two shots are initial building of the cover.



And a view by the Conn river after a 70+ mile October river run ready for my 3 hour drive home.

As you can see there are just 3 clips under the rub rail the cord hooks under and a slide tensioner at the rear to lock it in place.