Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rosscoe on September 17, 2013, 09:18:34 AM
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As some of you know, I recently purchased a metal building from out of state. It has turned into a nightmare and I can find no one to put the thing up. Its looking more and more like I am going to be doing way more of this myself they I ever intended and my body just inst up for much of it.
If ANYONE knows of any contractors that would even do part of it such as the concrete footings or put up the steel framing, please let me know. A forklift, crane or boom truck may be required as well. Otherwise I am going to end up with a pile of steel laying here and THAT is if I can get it unloaded from the truck when it shows up.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
I finally received a set of plans yesterday (small PDF files) and am supposed to be getting full size plans Fed Ex'd soon. Then I can go after the building permit.
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Can you upload your plans to this site? Think this is something a bunch of us could handle? Or at least to tip up the major walls and roof?
You can try posting an ad on CL too. Are you doing just a footing or a floor too?
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Are the parts so big/heavy that you would need a fork lift/crane to unload from truck ?
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Was planning in just doing footing because I think a slab would be cost prohibitive.
The footings need to be laid out very accurately so the anchor bolts line up and everything is square or the rest of it will be a huge PITA.
The beams would require something large to stand them up and set them on the anchor bolts.
The side sheet metal parts will be 12 feet long and I dont know how big the roof ones are. Getting it unloaded and down my driveway is another deal. They say if you use a forklift, the forks need to be at least 5 feet apart, otherwise some kind of boom truck with slings. The driver will not help at all as far as I know and the flat bed truck will not fit down my drive way.
I can post the plans and instructions. If the footings were done right, the rest might not be too bad, except for maybe the roof.
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Might be too big?
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OK, I see now. 60' x 40'. NICE!
So you just need footings like you would with a deck. 14 of them? Rent an auger?
Those do look like they would be heavy beams. Maybe you could rent some type of excavator to lift the beams up.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/misc/Capture_zps90d396bb.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/misc/Capture_zps90d396bb.jpg.html)
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Post an ad on CL.
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HOLY CRAP !
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First things first Ross...what's the plan for getting it off the trailer?
When that trucker shows up he's not going to want to mess around, and no, he won't help either. You going to rent a forklift to unload?
When does it arrive?
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I haven't told them to ship it yet. I have some time but sometime in Oct.
I could rent an auger and all that but the layout needs to be very accurate or the beams wont set on it. That is problem #2
#1 is getting it off the truck. I have a neighbor that has a giant fork lift and boom truck but I have never met him personally but did send an email. He runs the Franconia Sculpture park that is right behind me. I went there last Sat to introduce myself but only students were there. Its actually an "art" school but their art is huge.
http://www.franconia.org/ (http://www.franconia.org/)
Hasnt been very forthcoming as of yet.
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There are some really cool sculptures there!
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Yeah they don't make for a bad neighbor.
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Ross, sorry i,m so far away but unloading that truck here wouldn't be a problem. I have access to boomtrucks and large forklifts. I know that doesn't help you there. Here's another thought for unloading. Look for a large truck towing service with a rotating wrecker. They work just like a crane and you could use slings to pick up pallets and bundles of steel.
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I would strongly consider a full slab for that building. At the very least pour a perimeter wall and fill the inside with crushed stone. The full slab is the way to go because you can work in it so much easier. Roll things around, etc.
My neighbor has a 30 x 50 metal building and it took the installers about a week to build it. They used a backhoe and chain lift the beams.
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Well packed class 5 is great if it's just for storage. He has all kinds of shop space. BTW there's a big difference between a cave, in need, and a cave-in. Hope you don't have a cave-in. I can't wait for an erection party. (no punctuation needed)
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Ross, sorry i,m so far away but unloading that truck here wouldn't be a problem. I have access to boomtrucks and large forklifts. I know that doesn't help you there. Here's another thought for unloading. Look for a large truck towing service with a rotating wrecker. They work just like a crane and you could use slings to pick up pallets and bundles of steel.
Rotating wrecker? Are they fairly common?
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I would strongly consider a full slab for that building. At the very least pour a perimeter wall and fill the inside with crushed stone. The full slab is the way to go because you can work in it so much easier. Roll things around, etc.
My neighbor has a 30 x 50 metal building and it took the installers about a week to build it. They used a backhoe and chain lift the beams.
Wish I could but not knowing how bad its going to be to get this thing up, I likely wont have enough money. A slab can be poured later too. This is going to be for storage only. No electric, unless I run an extension cord to operate a door opener or a few lights.
Class 5 does pack well and makes it easier to move things around but trap rock was suggested too. That would make it tougher to roll anything. Might be a combination of things. Crush the trap rock down into the class 5, maybe.
I got a bite on my CL ad last night for the concrete work and maybe more. He has a bobcat and auger and does concrete for a living so I trust him with his knowledge. He hasnt said he'd take it yet but I still feel some relief. He suggested a Man lift might work for raising beam parts. I emailed him the plans to look over. Now I need to get my hands on the real working plans and get the permit process going.
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Dreser Trap is very hard and very sharp. It doesn't compact well. Class 5 needs to be tamped. That causes the fines and dust to come to the top and it really gets just like concrete. I have a pad in the back yard for the motorhome and boat.
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Wow, that is going to be one heck of a Glastron Cave Ross!
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Definitely consider the continuous footing. You don't want to do that with piers on a size that long. You might consider 5-6 foot piers at regular intervals and use a trencher to get you a foot wide by two feet deep for the full perimeter.
Jerry's right - you don't want a cave-in. Concrete here in Iowa, for a full slab with a footing wall and piers, would run you $8-$10 per square foot (At 40 x 60, that's up to $24,000 for the full slab). When I built homes, the slab foundation was often my largest single expense.
To set it up square is not a problem. You can probably find a YouTube how-to for setting string lines for concrete forming. You'll set stakes several feet outside your perimeter at the corners, pull a twine incredibly tight. You can measure each side and the diagonals to ensure it's square/rectangle. Then, you can measure and set more stakes outside of each location of your anchor bolt needs - run twine across here. All of this twine should be 1-2 feet off the ground - you'll use a plumb-bob to mark the ground at intersections. With your twine elevated this way, you can run your trencher and auger - the twine will flex enough and return to it's place if you bump against it. You'll also be able to pour the concrete without risk of the twine becoming embedded in your pour. I would definitely re-inforce all of it with steel re-bar, too. I would not be surprised if there were a foundation engineer or structural engineer who would want poured beams between your riser posts, too on a span that large.
Instead of a regular flatwork or slab crew, you might contact a curbing contractor. If you poured the perimeter footing, you could always come back later and pave the interior when you have the desire and the funds.
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What does the shed company recommend for footings?
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The building manufacturer probably does not recommend anything, because soil conditions and frost lines will vary wildly based on location. On the bigger houses, we drilled core holes and had the soil and bedrock analyzed before sending it all to the structural engineer for the foundation plan. My architectural plans were all done in house, but the foundation was always subbed out to a structural engineer as a form of insurance policy.
If you do all piers, and have a water source near one side, the soil moisture can lift those piers, where drier ground only 60 feet away might allow those to settle a few inches. Nothing worse than spending money on an awesome building that goes up and looks great for two years, then starts getting out of whack because of frost heave and other ground problems.
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I would go talk to the building authority for your city, town or whatever and see what their "code" is for this type of building. I know here in south Louisiana we have to have a chain wall that is 12" wide and 18" into the "original soil. I had to bring in some dirt to level where my workshop is. The slab in the rear of the building is 30 inches of concrete.
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I would go talk to the building authority for your city, town or whatever and see what their "code" is for this type of building. I know here in south Louisiana we have to have a chain wall that is 12" wide and 18" into the "original soil. I had to bring in some dirt to level where my workshop is. The slab in the rear of the building is 30 inches of concrete.
You may find that information here ... http://www.doli.state.mn.us/ccld/codes.asp (http://www.doli.state.mn.us/ccld/codes.asp)
It would all depend on where the property sits in relation to the city. Being MN, whether piers or continuous footings, you'll have to get below the frost line (according to the map, depending on the county you live in, you'll need to be 42" below natural grade or 60" below natural grade)
Determine the classification of the building, first. I have the code books/cd's for residential & my experience means these suggestions come from the viewpoint of someone who had to provide a 2/10 year warranty. This is your building, on your property, with you doing the assembly ... meaning you warranty your own.
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I am supposed to be getting the actual building plans fed ex'd soon. The county requires 2 copies for some reason. I'll get copies made and take them to the county. The footing design may be up to them. When we did my deck, I just went 48" and that was plenty. The soil here is heavy clay. When they poured the footings for my attached garage, the forms were minimal and just poured against the clay. I pretty much did the same thing for the deck. Took the tubes and cut them in half. stuck them in the hole and leveled the tops and poured into the hole and filled them. Probably used a bit more concrete then needed but what the heck.
After the county inspector looks the plans over, they'll likely say what needs to be done.
If I get this guy to do the cement work, I may be renting stuff to get the rest put together. Still need to resolve the issue of getting it off the truck. My pickup is so gutless, I dont even think I can pull a bobcat with it. Might have to rent a truck too. Thought I saw some outfits that deliver somewhere but I can not find them now.
The plan was to have someone do the whole thing so I wouldn't have too. Messed up back and shoulder. It was different when I was in my 40's when the house, attached garage and shop went up and I did a ton of the work. I am trying to get my business up and running before my unemployment runs out too. Contractors dont call back etc. Been very stressful and there is some kind of bug going around as well. Joni hasn't been able to get out of bed since Tuesday except for me taking her to the Doc yesterday. Its a virus so there is nothing they can do. Think I am getting it now but not as bad as her. Spent the better part of Wednesday sleeping.
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Hope you and Joni both get to feeling better soon Ross, we've had the same deal at my house this week. (The wife and grand-kids, I haven't gotten it yet.) Sounds like you'll have a great boat shop when you get that thing done, good luck with the task! A buddy in TN recently poured a 24'x48' slab for his new shop, I think it was 5 or 6" thick? Cost over $3500 for the slab alone, I think he said $135 a yard for the concrete.
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New business? lets hear more!!
Your truck will pull a bobcat just fine. Just take it slow.
Hope you two feel better soon!
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Part of the reason for the new building is to free up my shop and am going to pursue woodworking. Need to figure out all this website design and hosting stuff. Its all new to me. From what I've seen, there is no way I want to pay someone 90/month for web hosting.
This is probably the only reason I want to get this building up this fall. I need to start bringing in some income.
As far as what I will be making....its wide open. I will NOT do entire kitchens. Then people want them stained and installed. Trying to stay away from that. I (we're) going to focus on pet and animal stuff and I'll offer other things as well. I made myself some speaker stands that turned out well so I think that will be on the list. Made to order and size. Personalized doggy beds, cat perches etc.
I attempted this back in about 2004 but never marketed my stuff other then posting a business card here and there. Going to be more aggressive this time. Last time I focused on outdoor furniture which will still be part of the mix.
Here are some pics of the stuff I made so I had some samples. Cedar and pine, which would need to be painted so I'll be designating and area in my shop as a paint booth.
Problem with the big stuff is shipping. I may have to make them, then disassemble or only sell them locally. I am going to try to stay with smaller items.
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Wow! that is some good looking wood work!
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You need some boating stuff in there! LOL:
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRLoYXLh5oaYziH2WSdLxbnMGKbccnog6waQf3orp3Ih0Vqzf5BGg)
(http://www.alternativeconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/Ross/2010/2010_fall_winter/busterchair1.jpg)
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That's COOL !
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You need some boating stuff in there! LOL:
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRLoYXLh5oaYziH2WSdLxbnMGKbccnog6waQf3orp3Ih0Vqzf5BGg)
(http://www.alternativeconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/Ross/2010/2010_fall_winter/busterchair1.jpg)
You are right!
I'd hate to cut up real skis.
We'll be heading down to Nebraska over the weekend for Joni's brothers wedding. Leaving about 4 am tomorrow. Not looking forward to the drive.
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You need some boating stuff in there! LOL:
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRLoYXLh5oaYziH2WSdLxbnMGKbccnog6waQf3orp3Ih0Vqzf5BGg)
(http://www.alternativeconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/Ross/2010/2010_fall_winter/busterchair1.jpg)
You are right!
I'd hate to cut up real skis.
Well, I love some of the true high end classic wood skis...but the 'run of the mill ones' are a dime a dozen...and honestly, its called 'upcycling'...and the yuppies will pay big money for stuff like that. Otherwise, they're going to a landfill soon...might as well give them a new life.
(Google it...its a real word.)
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Well, if you need a break, I'm in the NW corner of Des Moines right by I80/35. Give me a call if you stop.
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Here are some pics of the stuff I made
Very nice work Ross!
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Ill be keeping my eyes open at garage sales for stuff like that.
Thanks for the offer but you will likely be at work both times through. Maybe not on thecway homr. Not sure when we'll be leaving.
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Here are some pics of the stuff I made
Very nice work Ross!
Thanks but they are all from plans. Pretty much anyone could do it if they have the equipment. One problem I encountered with the planters is the after they sit out on the sun, the miters all start opening up when the wood shrinks.
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Still, good workmanship!
As far as separating... let the wood age, dry out a little before you use it maybe?... I know it's tough when you put things out in the sun, treated or not, especially with the intensity down here.
When I replaced a section of my privacy fence this spring, in about 3-4 weeks I noticed the space between the slats had opened up considerably. Next section I let the slats age for a month before I treated and put them up, and didn't have the same problem.
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Ross - the website stuff isn't as difficult as you'd think.
I have used GoDaddy for years. Right now I have their ultimate hosting ... $7.50/month - unlimited bandwidth, unlimited websites.
You can get a simple website builder for an extra $1.00 per month, upgrade that to $4.50 for additional themes, etc.
Keep in mind, though, you pay by the year - so you'll pay $12 x 12 = $144 to have 12 months hosting and the website builder.
I typically order my stuff through them 3-5 years at time.
my personal site is not fancy ... www.architectureindoors.com (http://www.architectureindoors.com) ... and I have purchased some iweb themes to create these on my mac and upload through an FTP server. One thing about GoDaddy is that their customer service is excellent. They can walk you through things step-by-step if you need the help & most information is available online. I can typically answer my own question after searching the GoDaddy help section.
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For right now, my hobby business website, phone, ect is all with free Google services. You can tell it's not a high dollar set up, but it works for what I need. Also it's nice to have the Google Voice phone number because it lets me keep my private numbers off business cards, but I still get notified on my cell phone when I get calls.
Here's my website https://sites.google.com/site/accurateproductstargets/home
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For right now, my hobby business website, phone, ect is all with free Google services. You can tell it's not a high dollar set up, but it works for what I need. Also it's nice to have the Google Voice phone number because it lets me keep my private numbers off business cards, but I still get notified on my cell phone when I get calls.
Here's my website https://sites.google.com/site/accurateproductstargets/home
Kert, I see on your site you are going to be in Hasting, NE on the 5 and 6 of october. I live about an hour from hastings. what does your show schedule look like?
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Ross, have you had any more luck with this? I have been a structures designer for 25 years. There are many options for foundations for you. I would think a caison/drilled footing would be best if you want to eliminate the slab for now. You would drill about a 24" round hole about 4 feet deep and fill it with concrete and a steel cage. Anchor bolts can be replaced with expansion (redhead) type anchors making column/frame setting more simple and eliminating alignment issues. Anchor design would have to be determined for both anchor bolts or expansion anchors.
Unloading the truck? Rent a backhoe. There should be more than sufficient reach to both unload and erect the columns/frames.
I just built a same size pole building for a client. Roof panels are likely around 22' - 23' long. We used a wooden rig attached in the bucket of a tractor to lift the sheets of metal to the roof. They are not heavy but they are very awkward! flimsy till they are laid in place.
I sent you an email also.
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Ross - the website stuff isn't as difficult as you'd think.
I have used GoDaddy for years. Right now I have their ultimate hosting ... $7.50/month - unlimited bandwidth, unlimited websites.
You can get a simple website builder for an extra $1.00 per month, upgrade that to $4.50 for additional themes, etc.
Keep in mind, though, you pay by the year - so you'll pay $12 x 12 = $144 to have 12 months hosting and the website builder.
I typically order my stuff through them 3-5 years at time.
my personal site is not fancy ... www.architectureindoors.com (http://www.architectureindoors.com) ... and I have purchased some iweb themes to create these on my mac and upload through an FTP server. One thing about GoDaddy is that their customer service is excellent. They can walk you through things step-by-step if you need the help & most information is available online. I can typically answer my own question after searching the GoDaddy help section.
Thanks for the info Dan and Kert. I am just starting to get to that point. I may have some questions for you since you seem pretty knowledgeable in this area.
Chris I had no idea what you did for a living. I sent you the plans as requested in your email. Things are falling in place somewhat. Looks like we'll be unloading my building at the Sculpture Park near me and use their monster fork lift. Then putting it on a car hauler trailer and bringing it to my place. Then using the fork lift for setting it up, I think. John, the CEO at the Park will rent me the fork for 60/hr.
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Ross, nice work. I wish you luck in your new venture. If you are looking for some stuff that makes some good money, here are some that I have been successful with over the years. I used to own a remodeling company and also built custom furniture.
You mentioned animal stuff. Here is a dog crate I made for one of my high end customers. They used it for one of their show dogs. It has hidden casters under the bottom to roll it around on the floor. As you can see, it is lined with lexan in the event of an accident, easy cleanup. This was a one off item, pretty sure the bill on this was over $1200
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/08042E33-8F74-4D47-8571-1CE2231DF92D-1505-000001E13BE3234F_zps71c7c47b.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/08042E33-8F74-4D47-8571-1CE2231DF92D-1505-000001E13BE3234F_zps71c7c47b.jpg.html)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/8C51C264-D408-4466-8E24-79DB8CA0EFA2-1505-000001E143BE6F10_zpsa8085b25.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/8C51C264-D408-4466-8E24-79DB8CA0EFA2-1505-000001E143BE6F10_zpsa8085b25.jpg.html)
I made various shadow box themed coffee tables. This one had all the guys prior Harley's on display. That logo is raised up and was hand painted.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/62D1B994-2497-427C-86EE-0BA369842A6E-1505-000001E12CB7D23E_zps8ef7db14.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/62D1B994-2497-427C-86EE-0BA369842A6E-1505-000001E12CB7D23E_zps8ef7db14.jpg.html)
Military display boxes were always an easy sell. If you have any military friends or family, promote your product and they will keep you busy.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/C2063F72-EF7C-4826-A918-A7481E7375E2-1505-000001E1560E5D60_zps81e028de.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/C2063F72-EF7C-4826-A918-A7481E7375E2-1505-000001E1560E5D60_zps81e028de.jpg.html)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/E53AC191-885B-4159-A798-BC60E6732EFF-1505-000001E14B55333D_zps58d61704.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/E53AC191-885B-4159-A798-BC60E6732EFF-1505-000001E14B55333D_zps58d61704.jpg.html)
Challenge Coin Displays, easy to make in batches, nice profit.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/F28BFF93-134B-4490-88B9-B1098AD5840A-1505-000001E15E61FE2C_zps1c38cc25.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/F28BFF93-134B-4490-88B9-B1098AD5840A-1505-000001E15E61FE2C_zps1c38cc25.jpg.html)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/EB8E3D73-7927-4A08-A179-B2FB53C8938D-1505-000001E165EF9006_zpse5603e0b.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/EB8E3D73-7927-4A08-A179-B2FB53C8938D-1505-000001E165EF9006_zpse5603e0b.jpg.html)
Every woman in the world wants these in their kitchen. Make jigs for them and they are repeatable very easily.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/B2FF018E-0056-4A8D-895E-83D6EC698F42-1505-000001E16CB0EDCC_zpsf6795fda.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/B2FF018E-0056-4A8D-895E-83D6EC698F42-1505-000001E16CB0EDCC_zpsf6795fda.jpg.html)
And some bigger pieces. Lots of work though. That entertainment center took me 3 weeks to make and was very expensive!
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/FA3836A1-8677-47B7-B8E4-7D603CD7C2EA-1505-000001E135387CB6_zpsb0d58070.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/FA3836A1-8677-47B7-B8E4-7D603CD7C2EA-1505-000001E135387CB6_zpsb0d58070.jpg.html)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/47EAA51F-C793-4B63-84A8-94A9ADBF437C-1505-000001E174514D55_zps6ee1134a.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/motoxconnection/media/47EAA51F-C793-4B63-84A8-94A9ADBF437C-1505-000001E174514D55_zps6ee1134a.jpg.html)
Just thought I would share some ideas. There is money to made in wood working with the right items. Make things that are easy to make in batches. Good Luck! If I can be of any assistance, let me know.
Rich
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Nice work Rich.
Better then what I can do or have the patience for.
I will need some higher dollar pieces for sure. I like the dog crate. I'd be interested in seeing how that is put together.
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PM me your contact info and I will explain how that went together.
Rich
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After set backs due to illness and the weather, we finally made some progress today. Got all 14 footings bored while it drizzled, then poured on us. The people that were supposed to deliver the concrete and tubes didn't show up, so we had to stop. They said they didn't want the tubes to get wet! Thanks for letting us know. I took a couple of pics but I don't think my phone liked the rain.
Inspection scheduled for tomorrow as well as concrete delivery again and we'll be pouring. Hope we get them all done before it snows!. Had trouble finding the big arse anchor bolts we required but they were found at 7 Corners Hardware so I picked those up late this afternoon. Special order everywhere else.
$155.00 worth of anchor bolts! :o
Building is scheduled to be delivered at a near by location (for unloading) during the week of Nov 20. I tried to move it up but I am glad now, it didn't happen.
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Ross, we have anchor bolts like crazy at work if you need any, plus other fasteners for iron to concrete, hydraulic cement, etc. At 35 W and Lake Drive in Lino Lakes.
http://www.boeironinc.com/ (http://www.boeironinc.com/)
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Pouring was a lot of work doing it by hand and with a mixer but we got it done after dark and in the snow. I am not all that happy with the work of "pros" and how the footings laid out in relation to the anchor bolts. Being I hired someone, I really didn't want to be involved at the level I have been but its good I was. I helped them avoid some mis-readings on the prints. Too busy to take many pics.
We ran short on concrete since we drilled all the footings at 16" instead of some at 12" and some at 16". I volunteered to run to Menards to get another 60 bags and without thinking much about the weight, tried to put 60-60 pound bags on my snowmobile trailer. Well, that didn't work. At least it broke before I got on the road or that would have really sucked, being on the side of the road and having to unload it all by hand. My contractor came with his truck and took 30 bags and I left my trailer in Menards yard until today. I ended up coming back again Tuesday night or another 8 bags. I'll be glad when this is done. I had to have a flat bed pick it up and bring it home. Now I have another thing to fix. Think I'll try to flip it over somehow and work on it that way. Hope I can get another axel without it having to be "special"
Fiasco!
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Holy crap Ross that's a lot of weight, no wonder the axle on that poor snowmobile trailer let go.
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3600lbs! I guess when you are in the middle of things it could be easy to overlook.
Glad you are making progress though!
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3600lbs! I guess when you are in the middle of things it could be easy to overlook.
Glad you are making progress though!
Yeah, hurry hurry hurry. Guys are mixing and pouring while I ran. Never thought about the total weight. It might have been ok if the bags and weight were dispersed across the entire trailer but that would have sucked to load and unload.
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Holy crap Ross that's a lot of weight, no wonder the axle on that poor snowmobile trailer let go.
Not to mention it was very rusty. I have seen chunks flaking off for some time. I thought about having it sandblasted at some point but I think it would have disintegrated.
These things get used in the winter and never or rarely washed. At least mine hasn't. Salt sits on there forever eating away.
The closest replacement I have found, without taking any measurements say they are rated for 2200 pounds and that's on a good day.
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The building was scheduled tentatively, to be delivered on Nov 21st and has now been moved to the 27th, the day before Thanksgiving. Unfortunately it sounds like this date may not work at the Sculpture park due to the fork operator not being available. Sounds like the 27th would be better for the park but my contractor is going hunting for the entire week after Thanksgiving! Too many variables and they are starting to unravel.
During my "down time" between working on my website and other business related BS, I tore into the trailer and got the axle off but am having trouble finding a direct replacement. For one thing, the trailer is a 1992 and it seems they are all 5 lug hubs now and mine is 4 so I would have to buy all new rims and tires too. Also the width of the newer ones are a little narrower but I think that would be fine. Being that my unemployment ran out last week, its looking like this may have to wait. I think I'll start looking for a part time job. Joni will be switching to 2nd shift with her new employer, to get more hours. This will screw up some boating outings next summer unless a full time 1st shift opens up for her.
Over the last couple of weeks I did get a small office built into my shop and continue to gather stuff that will be moved to the new cave for storage. I still have lawnmowers to winterize as well as the V175. Drained the hot tub yesterday to save on electricity. Besides we usually don't use it in the winter.
Not much boat related here (I did mention the 175) but feel like I've got a lot of plates spinning in the air right now and just needed to air out my frustrations. Sorry
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Is it totally out of the question to straighten the axle and reinforce it with some plating? Or have a new tube welded between the spindles? I am not real familiar with snowmobile trailer axles.
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Wouldn't this work. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_32041_32041 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_32041_32041)
All you need is the axle and reuse your hubs, rims, tires.
Otherwise there is this as well http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365156_200365156 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365156_200365156)
I just rebuilt my snowmobile trailer this weekend
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Is it totally out of the question to straighten the axle and reinforce it with some plating? Or have a new tube welded between the spindles? I am not real familiar with snowmobile trailer axles.
Yeah, its too rusty and the mounting brackets are smashed. Believe me I have thought about trying to reuse it.
That last picture of it laying on the ground is after we stood on it and straightened it. There just really isnt any metal there. All flaking away and you have to avoid welding on these Torsion type axles because there are rubber cords running through at least part of it. That makes up the suspension.
There are a lot of things I COULD do....modify brackets, redrill the frame etc to get something to work but I wanted a drop in so I am not screwing around with it for days/weeks.
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Wouldn't this work. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_32041_32041 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_32041_32041)
All you need is the axle and reuse your hubs, rims, tires.
Otherwise there is this as well http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365156_200365156 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365156_200365156)
I just rebuild my snowmobile trailer this weekend
That's what I'd like to do...reuse the hubs etc but can not find an axle with the correct dimensions. I saw those at Northern and the frame width is incorrect.
I did find one at a Trailer dealer in Forest Lake but it was 350.00, 1 inch too narrow which would be ok but it wasnt offered without the hubs. Came with 5 lug hubs so....I'll keep looking. I've kinda moved it to the back burner now. Need to generate some income.
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Can you tell how thick the original axle pipe was? I would think it was about 1/4" which would be standard pipe. If heavier it would be X-strong pipe which is a standard grade structural pipe. It looks to be about 3" pipe. You should be able to get a length of pipe from a steel suppler and have the axle tube replaced or get a like sized channel and weld a piece to either side of the axle sandwiching the original between the new channels.
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I think it's a torque tube axle. there's probably an anchor in the middle. Spend the $219 and be done with it.
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I contacted Karavan this week and they have a close replacement. Its a little wider but its a 4 lugger so at least I wouldnt have to replace the tires and wheels too. 300.00 plus shipping from Fox Lake Wi.
Yes its a torque tube axle. Rubber cords act as the suspension
Back to the building, it was originally scheduled for delivery Nov 21st which they moved to the 27th. The day before thanksgiving. I was initially led to believe that no one would be at the Sculpture park that day to run the 30 ton fork lift, and my contractor, Jim would be gone hunting the entire week after thanksgiving. Eventually, John Hock at the Sculpture park got back to me saying that date would work. Thought we were all set, then Thursday, my contractor texted me that he fell off a ladder and tore his shoulder, with surgery scheduled for Friday. He said he would be out of commission a minimum of 2 weeks and after that could supervise but not do anything for probably 6 weeks. He suggested I get the delivery date moved out a couple of weeks. I had to beg to get the date moved out and was given Dec 12th as the new date. Took a day and 1/2 for John to get back to me and tell me that wont work. @%#!
He would be gone that entire week and suggested we stay with the original date. I had assumed he wouldn't want to be unloading it without my contractor there because I promised it would be unloaded and moved within one day. He suggested we just get it unloaded and either stick in in his corn field or on my property that adjoins the park. Now it was back to begging the building Manf to change the ship date again. They were not happy and as of late yesterday the 27th has not been confirmed so I'll have to wait until Monday to find out when they can ship it. The 27th looks doubtful now as it is so close. I'll be talking with John again today and may go over and look at our options for setting the building down and get all available dates that work for him. Another potential issue was that the later and colder it gets, the fork might not start. I am still not sure if he will allow us to use the fork to stand up the structure so how we do this is up in the air. The main reason I hired someone to do this was so I didn't have to worry about all this crap. Well, that's not going so well. Meanwhile I am still working on my website and other business stuff. My shop remake is almost complete.
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HOLY CRAP Ross !
When it rain's ... It pour's !
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Moved delivery date to Dec 5th now at the request of John. He is afraid the fork and (or) boom truck will not start as it gets colder. Had I know they would have unloaded it without my contractor being there, I would have left it at the 27th! Met with John on Sunday to scope out the park and pick a place to store the building until Contractor is able to move it.
Smashed my toe yesterday. What a *!#& year. Good thing I live with a nurse!
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OUCH !
You didn't have your steel toe sneakers on ?
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Nope.
Dropped an end of a 2x8x12' from about waste high. Landed on its edge of course.
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" Landed on its edge of course. "
Of course !
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Building arrives tomorrow, just in time for the snowiest and coldest day of the year so far. Hope that old diesel fork lift starts tomorrow. They are concerned about that. Joni and her son will be joining me in case anything physical needs to be done. No contractor. I'd love to fire his arse but being I found no one else to do it, I am at his mercy right now.
Building will be set on the ground until I figure out whats next.
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Wish I could help, but I'm almost worthless. Have a can of either handy. Some diesels have built-in either injectors, just a "sniff" though. Good luck.
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Thanks Jerry and Terry for the tips on diesels. It was running when we got over there around 7:45 this morning only to get a call from the trucker that he was running a couple hours late. We went home for awhile and headed back when he called saying he was about 10 miles away. The unloading went pretty good other then it was as cold as a witches hoo haa. It now sits over there on pallets and 4x4's about 1000 feet from home. I have no idea if my contractor will be coming back to finish the job or not at this point. I am starting to look at other options and will likely start moving it over here from there in pieces I can handle.
First pic....what it should look like at some point, but smaller.
Other pics...what it looks like now.
Some damaged parts I have to report.
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Couple more.
The roofing panels were one of the longest things @ 20 feet and kinda sagged even with the forks at 4 feet spacing. They'll be fun to move.
6433 parts and 13,274 pounds
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Ross I am glad to hear everything went well with the unloading. That's at least one thing off the list and out of the way. Looks like a heavy duty commercial building you got there, not your typical residental pole barn. Should be real nice when it is all done. Hopefully your foot/toe is back to normal.
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I've been out side most of the tonight ...
It is COLD !
If ya could have picked the worst night of the year, think it would be tonight !
Keep pluggin' away Ross ...
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HI, I haven't read the entire thread, yet
If I could answer and questions that you may have about this structure, I would be more than happy to do so.
As a Commercial and Residential Building Inspector employed for 13 years, and before that I built $500,000 + homes, in the county that I now inspect for. I will help in any way I can just let me know
If this is a engineered structure, you will have to follow the plans exactly as they are, or you may void the warranty, also check with your local building department and ask if you need a permit for erecting
I can help with questions from the foundation all the way through the finish C OF O ( Certificate Of Occupancy, assuming you have a permit to build this structure?)
let me know if you have any questuons
ps I may have to delete this post, if you already got this figured out, have a great weekend!
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HI, I haven't read the entire thread, yet
If I could answer and questions that you may have about this structure, I would be more than happy to do so.
As a Commercial and Residential Building Inspector employed for 13 years, and before that I built $500,000 + homes, in the county that I now inspect for. I will help in any way I can just let me know
If this is a engineered structure, you will have to follow the plans exactly as they are, or you may void the warranty, also check with your local building department and ask if you need a permit for erecting
I can help with questions from the foundation all the way through the finish C OF O ( Certificate Of Occupancy, assuming you have a permit to build this structure?)
let me know if you have any questuons
ps I may have to delete this post, if you already got this figured out, have a great weekend!
Yup I had to pull a permit and that requires 2 inspections. The footings are pretty hosed and I don't think my contractor is coming back. I am sure the Inspector will not like what he sees as far as the footings go. I had enough money set aside based on this contractors quote. If he doesn't finish it and/or we have to redo footings with this or another contractor, I may be back into my 401k and again suffer the 30% loss (taxes and penalties). Its been a nightmare. This level of work and his professionalism is just inexcusable.
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HI, I haven't read the entire thread, yet
If I could answer and questions that you may have about this structure, I would be more than happy to do so.
As a Commercial and Residential Building Inspector employed for 13 years, and before that I built $500,000 + homes, in the county that I now inspect for. I will help in any way I can just let me know
If this is a engineered structure, you will have to follow the plans exactly as they are, or you may void the warranty, also check with your local building department and ask if you need a permit for erecting
I can help with questions from the foundation all the way through the finish C OF O ( Certificate Of Occupancy, assuming you have a permit to build this structure?)
let me know if you have any questuons
ps I may have to delete this post, if you already got this figured out, have a great weekend!
Yup I had to pull a permit and that requires 2 inspections. The footings are pretty hosed and I don't think my contractor is coming back. I am sure the Inspector will not like what he sees as far as the footings go. I had enough money set aside based on this contractors quote. If he doesn't finish it and/or we have to redo footings with this or another contractor, I may be back into my 401k and again suffer the 30% loss (taxes and penalties). Its been a nightmare. This level of work and his professionalism is just inexcusable.
sorry to hear about your troubles, you took the correct step in getting a permit, just remember we inspectors ensure that whoever you hire to do a job, does it correctly, and meets minimum codes. The minimum codes are like getting a passing score of "D" if that makes sense. when the contractor goes over and beyond the minimum, it is a benefit for the homeowners.
Now I have a question: the 2 inspections you are required to have, are they Pier Footings , and Framing?
The pier footings ( individual piers for each support) or footing ( continuous around the perineter) would be inspected prior to concrete placement. We have to probe the soil for bearing to ensure that the grade is not soft, you don't want to put a continuous load path on a soft grade, you will have structural problems.
The Framing inspection will be for all the structural framing which includes steel. The inspector should ask for the engineered framing plans, and inspect everything that is on the plans, to ensure that you get what exactly what your paying for, and to ensure that it all is constructed per the plans.
one more thing, in your engineered plans, do you have structural bolts connecting all the members together? if so you should have a spec on the torque required for each bolt. The bolts maybe have a built in torque stop, just double check these, you don't want them under torqued!
We require a special inspection report on these bolts, not sure if you were required to have that inspection
let me know if I can help
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That footing is pitiful. No way that would pass inspection in my town. Do you have a contract with your contractor or just a hand shake? If it doesn't pass inspection then he is responsible for making it meet code at his expense. Please tell us you have not paid him yet.
When I built my house, nobody got paid until inspections were passed. I had a few angry workers but I told them you get paid when it passes inspection. I don't want to have to track anyone down once they've been paid.
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If I could answer and questions that you may have about this structure, I would be more than happy to do so.
As a Commercial and Residential Building Inspector employed for 13 years, and before that I built $500,000 + homes, in the county that I now inspect for. I will help in any way I can just let me know
If this is a engineered structure, you will have to follow the plans exactly as they are, or you may void the warranty, also check with your local building department and ask if you need a permit for erecting
sorry to hear about your troubles, you took the correct step in getting a permit, just remember we inspectors ensure that whoever you hire to do a job, does it correctly, and meets minimum codes. The minimum codes are like getting a passing score of "D" if that makes sense. when the contractor goes over and beyond the minimum, it is a benefit for the homeowners.
Now I have a question: the 2 inspections you are required to have, are they Pier Footings , and Framing?
The pier footings ( individual piers for each support) or footing ( continuous around the perineter) would be inspected prior to concrete placement. We have to probe the soil for bearing to ensure that the grade is not soft, you don't want to put a continuous load path on a soft grade, you will have structural problems.
The Framing inspection will be for all the structural framing which includes steel. The inspector should ask for the engineered framing plans, and inspect everything that is on the plans, to ensure that you get what exactly what your paying for, and to ensure that it all is constructed per the plans.
one more thing, in your engineered plans, do you have structural bolts connecting all the members together? if so you should have a spec on the torque required for each bolt. The bolts maybe have a built in torque stop, just double check these, you don't want them under torqued!
We require a special inspection report on these bolts, not sure if you were required to have that inspection
let me know if I can help
They are Pier footings and go down at least 48". The initial inspection was of the bored hole prior to concrete pouring. My permit states 3 inspections with the 2nd one being once the steel framing is in place. I asked the inspector when he was here about it and he said he didn't need to come back until it was completely done.
I agree the footing is pathetic. At least of there was going to be a poured slab, they'd have some additional support but I dont have the funds for a slab.
I do have a contract but is says "quote" at the top but we both signed it. He wanted to get paid as he went along in steps. X amount to get on his calender, X amount after the footings were poured and that's where we're at. So at this point he's got 2k from me. I mentioned at the beginning not being totally comfortable about this method because I had some idiot contractor bail on me before. He said "I'm not like that" Well, would else would he say?
This guy is not licensed in Minnesota and is from neighboring Wis. Trying to sue him would cost me more then 2k. Not sure what I am going to do yet. I have been hoping he would realize that he works for me, I hired him to do a job and maybe he would apologize for ripping me a new one last week and finish the job. Maybe I should bring the inspector back and have that as ammo.
He knew the building was showing up on the 5th and was MIA. I understand that he had shoulder surgery but he had me move the date out so he could have a crew there. Didn't happen.
I have started a list of his "promises" and short comings and text contents from start to finish. This idiot cost me my trailer axle besides numerous other headaches. Its a dang good thing I made my own arrangements to get it unloaded. Left to him, it wouldn't have happened. Whats wrong with some people. Have they no conscience?
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If I could answer and questions that you may have about this structure, I would be more than happy to do so.
As a Commercial and Residential Building Inspector employed for 13 years, and before that I built $500,000 + homes, in the county that I now inspect for. I will help in any way I can just let me know
If this is a engineered structure, you will have to follow the plans exactly as they are, or you may void the warranty, also check with your local building department and ask if you need a permit for erecting
sorry to hear about your troubles, you took the correct step in getting a permit, just remember we inspectors ensure that whoever you hire to do a job, does it correctly, and meets minimum codes. The minimum codes are like getting a passing score of "D" if that makes sense. when the contractor goes over and beyond the minimum, it is a benefit for the homeowners.
Now I have a question: the 2 inspections you are required to have, are they Pier Footings , and Framing?
The pier footings ( individual piers for each support) or footing ( continuous around the perineter) would be inspected prior to concrete placement. We have to probe the soil for bearing to ensure that the grade is not soft, you don't want to put a continuous load path on a soft grade, you will have structural problems.
The Framing inspection will be for all the structural framing which includes steel. The inspector should ask for the engineered framing plans, and inspect everything that is on the plans, to ensure that you get what exactly what your paying for, and to ensure that it all is constructed per the plans.
one more thing, in your engineered plans, do you have structural bolts connecting all the members together? if so you should have a spec on the torque required for each bolt. The bolts maybe have a built in torque stop, just double check these, you don't want them under torqued!
We require a special inspection report on these bolts, not sure if you were required to have that inspection
let me know if I can help
They are Pier footings and go down at least 48". The initial inspection was of the bored hole prior to concrete pouring. My permit states 3 inspections with the 2nd one being once the steel framing is in place. I asked the inspector when he was here about it and he said he didn't need to come back until it was completely done.
I agree the footing is pathetic. At least of there was going to be a poured slab, they'd have some additional support but I dont have the funds for a slab.
I do have a contract but is says "quote" at the top but we both signed it. He wanted to get paid as he went along in steps. X amount to get on his calender, X amount after the footings were poured and that's where we're at. So at this point he's got 2k from me. I mentioned at the beginning not being totally comfortable about this method because I had some idiot contractor bail on me before. He said "I'm not like that" Well, would else would he say?
This guy is not licensed in Minnesota and is from neighboring Wis. Trying to sue him would cost me more then 2k. Not sure what I am going to do yet. I have been hoping he would realize that he works for me, I hired him to do a job and maybe he would apologize for ripping me a new one last week and finish the job. Maybe I should bring the inspector back and have that as ammo.
He knew the building was showing up on the 5th and was MIA. I understand that he had shoulder surgery but he had me move the date out so he could have a crew there. Didn't happen.
I have started a list of his "promises" and short comings and text contents from start to finish. This idiot cost me my trailer axle besides numerous other headaches. Its a dang good thing I made my own arrangements to get it unloaded. Left to him, it wouldn't have happened. Whats wrong with some people. Have they no conscience?
IMO, you need to find a licensed contractor for starters, ask for references, go see a few completed jobs that they have done, in your area.
Then go to the building department and speak with them, ask "if this contractor it legit, and have they had any customer complaints to the building department on this contractor" this may help you a tremendous amount
if I get out of line here please let me know, my job is to look out for the homeowner the #1 customer
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No you are not out of line in any way. I appreciate the advice.
He supposedly is licensed, just not in my State which is why I pulled the permit and he offered references during our first meeting but declined. He seemed knowledgeable when we discussed how this thing had to go together and was looking forward to doing it and thought it would be fun. What happened, I don't know. I think we he saw the hosed up footings when the anchor bolts went in, he decided to bail. I haven't talked to him since Nov 30. I don't think its asking too much to inquire as to how he is coming along but I now believe its BS and he never got hurt. Just an excuse to drag things out. I think he is now just trying to making me angry and fire him as his way out, which may happen today.
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Good. Arm yourself with all the correspondence you have and I would have the inspector pay a visit and document his findings to present to the contractor. If that fails then see if you can sue even if he is not licscensed in your state. You sue for repairs and legal/court costs so you get all your money back.
Most important thing now is to get a signed and documented report from the inspector stating that the footing (s) are not to code and are not sufficient for supporting the structure.
Then you talk to an attorney. A good attorney will go after repair cost, legal fees, court cost and any additional funds you had to spend to correct this issue. Hit the contractor with a $10k lawsuit and if you have all needed documentation and a solid case he will probably settle by actually correcting the issue at his expense to avoid the suit.
It's a shame one has to turn to this option but there are so many dishonest and piss poor contractors out there that the customer is forced to take action. As soon as he saw where those bolts were going to land in that footing he should have never poored a drop of concrete in that tube.
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Sounds like I will be moving in that direction. You know, at this point, if the guy is ticked off especially of he is threatened with a law suit and comes back to finish it, he will do a crappy, fast, slam dunk job and I will be no where near the area helping. He put 2 weeks on it before....to get the walls up etc.
I hope the inspector does not tell me I am screwed because he is not licensed in this state and gives me grief that this is why I should have chosen on that was.
We'll see if I get any response from him whatsoever, from my text. I am afraid to call because I will tear into him. Trying to keep it civil, for now.
I have put in a request for a print out of our text thread from my phone company. Hope I can get one. Maybe only the NSA can do that. :D
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Tha inspectors only inspect the dug holes for bearing, size, and depth per your plans.we dont ensure that the concrete has the correct psi per the plans, however, if the concrete appeared to be a hand mixture, i will turn down the footing inspection, and ask for an engineered letter on those piers, to protect the homeowner
Did he use a lazer to lay out the piers and anchor bolts?
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It was hand mixed but that was partly my suggestion since we couldnt or didnt think we could get a cement truck down my narrow driveway and he wanted to "take his time and get it right" LOL
I bought the dang cement mixer too because he didn't have one.
So are you saying bringing the inspector back is worthless or is there at least some value in having it documented by him as well as my pictures?
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I'm at work
I'll get bac to ya shortly: )
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Tha inspectors only inspect the dug holes for bearing, size, and depth per your plans.we dont ensure that the concrete has the correct psi per the plans, however, if the concrete appeared to be a hand mixture, i will turn down the footing inspection, and ask for an engineered letter on those piers, to protect the homeowner
Did he use a lazer to lay out the piers and anchor bolts?
No lazer. Just a transit to set the heights which by the way was a piece of poop and he and one of his workers left for a good 40 minutes to try to line up another one while his "laborer" and I continued to mix and pour concrete.
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Ross -
It's likely your "damages" are less than the threshold for district court in Minnesota, so you'd get to sue in small claims. (Texas is $10,000. Iowa is $5,000) Most states have an expedited process and the Clerk of Court is trained to assist pro-se filers so they may have access to legal remedies without having the expense of an attorney. The filing fee for small claims in Iowa was $185.
I'm not familiar with Minnesota rules, but you both signed an agreement to do a specified amount of work in a specified amount of time for a specified amount of money. You may be able to sue in Minnesota, as that is where the "cause of action" took place. Your state's rules may provide that you can only file in the county in which the person resides, or where the cause of action occurs - in this case, you can sue in your county and he has to come to you. Your case will have to specify that venue is proper where you file for that reason. When you have a contract there are three remedy choices - Expectation, Reliance, and Restitution. You'll likely want the expectation remedy - that would place the non-breaching party in the position they expected to be in had all things gone according to the contract. You want him to finish the job, and if he doesn't, you want him to pay what it costs to have the job finished by someone else (You will only be expected to pay the contract amount, anything over he would be responsible for).
Most courts won't let you make up costs and damages willy-nilly. In contracts, there is no such thing as "pain and suffering," either. Contract law is an entire theory of law all by itself. At the minimum, you probably need a good reliable quote from a properly licensed contractor. Then, you take his quote, subtract what you've already paid the other guy, and that is what the bum owes you + any fees you pay. Some states don't allow small claims courts to factor attorney costs - this means some attorneys exaggerate damages to get you out of small claims into district court. If you sue in small claims and he doesn't show up, you win by default and can execute a judgment against him.
**I am not an attorney. The above does not constitute legal advice.**
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Call your building department and ask if the " Building Director" would come out and take a look at your concerns with the construction.
That may be your best option at the moment
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Ugh
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Be professional at first. Have it inspected and get a report in writing and signed by the county inspector. Get that base covered. We already know that at least one of the footings is a failure. Bolts will tear through that concrete in no time. Should be centered.
Send contractor a certified letter explaining what you expect for what you paid him to do and enclose a copy of the inspectors findings and suggestions.
Now it's up to him to make the correct move. If he doesn't then take the gloves off and do what you need to do.
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Is there room to rotate or move the whole building footprint within concrete that has been poured? Can't you cut those studs off and re drill new anchor bolts? There has to be some tolerance.
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If it's anything like my neighbor's there isn't any tolerance to speak of. The whole structure bolts together and if it is off as with that one footing then that whole section will be pushed over and then the cross beams for the roof will not line up.
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Is there room to rotate or move the whole building footprint within concrete that has been poured? Can't you cut those studs off and re drill new anchor bolts? There has to be some tolerance.
Yes, you should be able to grind them off, drill new holes in the correct position and use the self expanding studs that hammer in. I use them all the time here in Nebraska. I dont even put in J bolts any more
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Is there room to rotate or move the whole building footprint within concrete that has been poured? Can't you cut those studs off and re drill new anchor bolts? There has to be some tolerance.
Yes, you should be able to grind them off, drill new holes in the correct position and use the self expanding studs that hammer in. I use them all the time here in Nebraska. I dont even put in J bolts any more
This is what I did with my garage too. It seems to be a lot easier.
I don't mean tweak or twist the building. More of a "best fit" between all the pads. Keep it square but move it around so they are all off center a little to bring the one off in more. Cut off all the studs, find a best fit, then drill and use the anchor studs once your main building structure is up.
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Check the codes before using anchor bolts. You don't want that sucker ripping those things out of the footings. You don't want to be "shifting and sliding" the building around to make it fit. It needs to be done correctly from start to finish. That is what the man is paying for. When it's all said and done, the contractor needs to make damn sure that everything is correct. Not half arse and "tweak" to fit.
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If you alter ( change) *anything* from the original engineered plans that you submitted, and got approved from the building department. The inspector probably will ask for an engineers evaluation on the altered ( changed) portion of the structure.Which would include anchor bolts that are other than what is on the plans
for example...if your plans call for 5/8" diameter 12" Long J bolts embedded ( wet set) 8" into the minimum 4000 psi concrete engineered piers, with 4" of thread stick out for your engineered support post , with proper size washers, and nuts, torqued to a specific torque to hold the structure erect, and down ( wind uplift) per the engineer that designed that structure, you are safe.
BUT if at some point you decide to install Red Head 1/2" diameter anchor bolts ( not per plans) you are at risk of possible structure failure, if what you decided to change is not designed for that structure
I am not an engineer, however that is my 2cents...it took me about one hour to type this because I had 3 distractions which are 2 dogs and my wife trying to get my attention:) so I hope you understand the point i was trying to make
just be careful, pay attention to detail
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I agree with buck, just make sure if you alter the footing at this point make sure it meets your building codes and approved plans. After all you are dealing with a steal structure not a wood framed garage.
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If it's anything like my neighbor's there isn't any tolerance to speak of. The whole structure bolts together and if it is off as with that one footing then that whole section will be pushed over and then the cross beams for the roof will not line up.
Exactly. One of the workers suggested we have a torch on site in case the holes in the plates need to be blown open.
I stopped in at County Records and talked with 2 inspectors. Neither one offered to look at them and document in any way. They told me since I pulled the permit, I am acting as the Contractor and basically subbed it out to this guy. They said if he had been a licensed contractor in Minnesota, they could go after him.
The guy got an attitude with me again yesterday and I decided to start compiling all texts, emails and options. I'll be sending an email pointing out what I think our options are going forward. If he continues to work on it (he stated that intention yesterday) I'm afraid he'll do a hack job because our working relationship is soured.
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I'd have to rip him a new one. Anyone with an ounce of professionalism would say "I'll take care of it, sorry for the inconvenience. "
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Someone else told me about hacking the bolts off and drilling anchors but that is not to the engineering drawings. I guess you can get them as long as maybe 10" but it is not how I told the county how it will be built. I might feel ok with doing that one one of the smaller beams but not really on the four largest ones which we have 3/4x12" "L" bolts in. Also after taking some measurements today, the bolts being off isnt as bad as the footings being off. The beams could very well drop right onto some of the bolts but if its sitting on the edge of the footing or even hanging off, cutting the bolts off and using anchors solves nothing.
I have been gathering all the issues into an email so I could get the dates and times right but now I am having second thoughts about whether I should fire him or let him struggle with the screw ups. I'm also afraid of trying to find another contractor and starting all over and likely loosing the money (about 4K) I've got into it and having to come up with a lot more. My blood pressure and this whole mess has given me a week long headache and I don't know if I could go through with conciliation court and I am sure this guy will not freely give me a refund. I am trying to not "let him have it" while I am angry but feeling that I need to persists. :D
He informed me yesterday that he had to have a second surgery and again the recovery clock starts ticking at something like 6 weeks. He blamed me for the delays which is ridiculous. The earliest delivery date I have ever had for the building was "tentative" and for the week of Nov 20th. He says it "showing up months late is the issue" Ha! Ok I'm going to get mad again and rip him a new one. lol
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Someone else told me about hacking the bolts off and drilling anchors but that is not to the engineering drawings. I guess you can get them as long as maybe 10" but it is not how I told the county how it will be built. I might feel ok with doing that one one of the smaller beams but not really on the four largest ones which we have 3/4x12" "L" bolts in. Also after taking some measurements today, the bolts being off isnt as bad as the footings being off. The beams could very well drop right onto some of the bolts but if its sitting on the edge of the footing or even hanging off, cutting the bolts off and using anchors solves nothing.
I have been gathering all the issues into an email so I could get the dates and times right but now I am having second thoughts about whether I should fire him or let him struggle with the screw ups. I'm also afraid of trying to find another contractor and starting all over and likely loosing the money I've got into it and having to come up with a lot more. My blood pressure and this whole mess has given me a week long headache and I don't know if I could go through with conciliation court and I am sure this guy will not freely give me a refund. I am trying to not "let him have it" while I am angry but feeling that I need to persists. :D
He informed me yesterday that he had to have a second surgery and again the recovery clock starts ticking at something like 6 weeks. He blamed me for the delays which is ridiculous. The earliest delivery date I have ever had for the building was "tentative" and for the week of Nov 20th. He says it "showing up months late is the issue" Ha! Ok I'm going to get mad again and rip him a new one. lol
Gosh! okay, this is not the worse it could be, at least you recognized a potential problem with the pier footings,anchor bolts, before the structure supports were being placed.
Rosscoe, when you get a chance, can you read the fine print on the concrete bags. I am interested in the PSI rating, also the manufactures instruction on how to mix for the PSI stated on the bag. I also want to know what concrete PSI is stated on your engineered plans for your footings/piers.
post them when you can
I don't remember how many piers you have total?
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Materials showing up late has nothing to do with him not setting the footings and bolts in the correct position. I showed the photo you posted of the footing with the bolts right on the edge of the concrete. He's a building contractor. He laughed and said no way in hell would he ever allow work to be performed like that. He'd fire a worker for placing bolts like that. He also stated that if his crew did do something like that that he would redo it at his expense. No way would he allow that.
Apparently this contractor can't read and follow a plan nor measure. Shear stupidity to place the bolts in that footing and feel good about it. Should be centered in the footing.
Sorry for all your troubles and headaches. Stay strong and either get Some if not all of your money back and then find someone local to build it. Not being from your area puts me at a disadvantage but it must be a heck of a time trying to do this with the temps and snow.
Just out of curiosity, how large are the mounting plates that are supposed to sit on top of your footings? What is the diameter of the footings?
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Someone else told me about hacking the bolts off and drilling anchors but that is not to the engineering drawings. I guess you can get them as long as maybe 10" but it is not how I told the county how it will be built. I might feel ok with doing that one one of the smaller beams but not really on the four largest ones which we have 3/4x12" "L" bolts in. Also after taking some measurements today, the bolts being off isnt as bad as the footings being off. The beams could very well drop right onto some of the bolts but if its sitting on the edge of the footing or even hanging off, cutting the bolts off and using anchors solves nothing.
I have been gathering all the issues into an email so I could get the dates and times right but now I am having second thoughts about whether I should fire him or let him struggle with the screw ups. I'm also afraid of trying to find another contractor and starting all over and likely loosing the money I've got into it and having to come up with a lot more. My blood pressure and this whole mess has given me a week long headache and I don't know if I could go through with conciliation court and I am sure this guy will not freely give me a refund. I am trying to not "let him have it" while I am angry but feeling that I need to persists. :D
He informed me yesterday that he had to have a second surgery and again the recovery clock starts ticking at something like 6 weeks. He blamed me for the delays which is ridiculous. The earliest delivery date I have ever had for the building was "tentative" and for the week of Nov 20th. He says it "showing up months late is the issue" Ha! Ok I'm going to get mad again and rip him a new one. lol
Gosh! okay, this is not the worse it could be, at least you recognized a potential problem with the pier footings,anchor bolts, before the structure supports were being placed.
Rosscoe, when you get a chance, can you read the fine print on the concrete bags. I am interested in the PSI rating, also the manufactures instruction on how to mix for the PSI stated on the bag. I also want to know what concrete PSI is stated on your engineered plans for your footings/piers.
post them when you can
I don't remember how many piers you have total?
Well we burned all the empty bags on site but the receipt from the original supplier says Sakrete 60 lb bags and the stuff I got a Menards has the same description on the receipt with the exception of mentioning its 4000 PSI.
Total piers-14 4 are considered the main supports.
I'll have to look more at the plans details. I saw it somewhere. I have some important business to take care of today and am trying to not get angry.
Actually I have PDF's of the prints and building instructions of you care to see them. See page one of this thread.
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Materials showing up late has nothing to do with him not setting the footings and bolts in the correct position. I showed the photo you posted of the footing with the bolts right on the edge of the concrete. He's a building contractor. He laughed and said no way in hell would he ever allow work to be performed like that. He'd fire a worker for placing bolts like that. He also stated that if his crew did do something like that that he would redo it at his expense. No way would he allow that.
Apparently this contractor can't read and follow a plan nor measure. Shear stupidity to place the bolts in that footing and feel good about it. Should be centered in the footing.
Sorry for all your troubles and headaches. Stay strong and either get Some if not all of your money back and then find someone local to build it. Not being from your area puts me at a disadvantage but it must be a heck of a time trying to do this with the temps and snow.
Just out of curiosity, how large are the mounting plates that are supposed to sit on top of your footings? What is the diameter of the footings?
Exactly! He's a bone head. The mounting plates are different sizes, depending on their purpose. See plans on page one.