Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
21
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on November 13, 2018, 01:25:05 PM »
Great job Shawn.  I can see why a 23 would need the support up front with the hatch and cubby.  Did it have flotation logs before? 
22
General Discussion / Repowering a Classic (cont'd)
« Last post by Dyounge on November 13, 2018, 11:32:30 AM »
Back in August I posted about needing a new engine for my 1969 GT-160. I had settled on a 1988 Merc 115 that Supreme Marine was supposedly going to be rebuilding. I've called monthly and they took my name down. No word on when they will actually get around to repairing it (it dropped a cylinder). Not a big deal since the season's over, but a CL deal grabbed my attention. It's a 1990 Yamaha 130 V4 2 stroke. I like the look of the Merc, but have some ideas to make the Yammi look more retro. The "old" Yamahas are supposedly some of the most reliable outboards ever made according to some, but wanted to see if anyone here has any personal experience with them. According to the owner, it was originally owned by the DNR. Not sure for what purpose. Then a "racing mechanic" owned it and the current owner has had it for three years. Says it runs perfect. I'll be sure to listen to it run and do a compression and spark test.

I'm thinking it should be more reliable, easier to work on, and have more parts availability than the Tower. Weight is not bad at 357 lbs. I've read to inspect the shift rod because it wasn't made of stainless until 1995. Comes with boat and trailer and two props for what the Merc will cost. I should get more pictures tonight and will go check it out tomorrow. Thoughts??
23
General Discussion / Re: 1976 CV 16 V8 Complete Rebuild
« Last post by fireman24mn on November 13, 2018, 11:09:04 AM »
It was a 1993 Starcraft. Thats snow you see.
24
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by fireman24mn on November 13, 2018, 11:07:20 AM »
The top on my 23 was able to be carried by 4 people pretty easy. It would probably pull the foam logs and then you could just core the deck like my 23 is/ was. As far as filler I wouldn't worry too much. Look at the amount of areas that are in my 23 and I did not have any problems. Remember the filler is only filling the small imperfections and voids all the strength is in the glass. Just remember to make the fiberglass repair areas larger than just the immediate area.

Here is a video of me laminating the coring. I used balsa but you could use plastic core as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH3COUN_wpg
25
General Discussion / Re: 1976 CV 16 V8 Complete Rebuild
« Last post by Plugcheck on November 13, 2018, 10:46:06 AM »
     Looks frosty?    What kind of craft was it?   Looks fairly modern actually.
26
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on November 13, 2018, 10:44:05 AM »
       I cut some cloth strips about 2" wide, and I'm planning to apply the first layer from the outside,   Hopefully as it hardens I can make sure its straight, this would cut some time off the shaping and filling.   I'm a bit skeptical of using any fillers on this outside edge as I feel the edge may distort a bit when adding all the screws.   Fillers don't like to be flexed and screws/bolts have a tendency to dig in.    I am planning to flip the top over since I need to incorporate a new pvc wire tube, and to add reinforcement to where the gunwales tie to the bow and stern glass areas.   The top is pretty badly cracked in these areas.   There is also a significant amount of foam.  The bow has "logs" glassed in, but I'm thinking of pouring the gaps so I don't end up with the "stripes" of dew on the bow.   
     How did you flip the top Shawn?   team effort?
27
General Discussion / Re: 1976 CV 16 V8 Complete Rebuild
« Last post by fireman24mn on November 13, 2018, 09:58:34 AM »
I got the donor boat all stripped. Pulled the engine and all drive components. Also pulled the steering, wiring harness and throttle controls. I was really surprised that the wiring harness was all intact and didn't look like there were any splices.
28
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by fireman24mn on November 13, 2018, 09:28:50 AM »
I had a number of areas I had to fix on the 23. Just grind them out and start adding layers. Let them hang off and the just cut a straight line with saw or die grinder. Also if you do need some kind of backing material to hold a form or shape, use duct tape and aluminum tape (HVAC tape). Just make sure to add/ repair both sides.
You can see my precut pieces in the first pic to add to the chunk missing.
29
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by thedeuceman on November 13, 2018, 06:22:15 AM »
I recall our GT being ground like that, I did not fix it and it gave me trouble later on. I would prob lay about a 1” strip on the outside freehand and then build in from there, kinda wasteful but should work. That’s how I built the hatch cover for the Bal Harbor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
30
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on November 12, 2018, 11:03:10 PM »
Brought the top into the shop to repair the rub rail edge.  Washed all the dirt and grime off, pulled all the items mounted to hull, then washed again.  As is usually the case, this process uncovers other issues.  My pictures aren't the best, but curious to know if anyone else has dealt with this issue.  Someone ground a bevel into the rub rail mounting area that severely weakened the connection.  Many of the holes broke out the bottom I assume from years of flexing.  The overall width of this area also seems narrow compared to others I've done.  Plan is to figure out how to lengthen and strengthen this area.  Adding layers to reinforce the area shouldn't be bad, it's how do I set the first layer, really can't use a form?  Any ideas anyone?
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10