Just my $0.02 but I would check the engine alignment. Given6 a hoist or strong tree lift the engine slightly, it might be frozen in the coupler. The 2nd possibility, and the stronger one for me, I have always noticed the drives must come off squarely and go on the same. They can and do get themselves wedged on the 6 studs. I know it is tempting to insert a pry bay but do not as the mating surface can be nicked and damaged. The last time I was in this predicament, I used a porta power with soft jaws, but I think some wood and wedges could help. I have not done so in the past, but since the top is opened, can you remove the driveshaft nut and pull the drive, leaving the u joints in place to pull with a slide hammer later?
thanks for the advice I appreciate it
, however I just about got the *&^%(86 thing off!! I really wanted to say something else...I feel like now that I am older, me and boats aren't getting along, maybe this is another sign to move on...Oh well, I can't lol...
someone has tried to remove this out drive before, using some sort of wedge like a chisel or screwdriver to no avail...
I have not used any sort of chisel or wedge to try to get this lower unit off!.( not to say that I havent thought about using a plastic wedge) not good practice at all I do a lot of side mechanic work and know what kind of problems that can cause for mating surfaces.
at this point I just hope that brandon will still be able to
use the gamble housing because the mating surface appears to be a little bit used for prying.
I have to finish up mechanic project today for a friend upper and lower ball joints tie rod ends front pads wheel bearings thermostat Ect. but you know me sometime during the day I'm going to try to get that darn thing the rest of the way off..
then I will be able to remove that engine Sunday and get the remaining parts of that brandon needs.
thanks again for the advice and I appreciate it
