Layers of fiberglass cloth?

[nes-cv23]

I was not able to find, in any of the old fiberglass posts. How many layers of cloth or mesh do you all use on a reglass stringer and floor project? A lot of talk about differant wood, resin, cloth or mesh but nothing on how many layers to use. I know how many layers I use, but I want to see how many the rest of you use...

[fireman24mn]

On the boats I have done I used one layer of double Bias mat.(in a way 2 layers then) I used 10 in wide on the 23 stringers. I didn't fully encapsulate mine. Just 3/4 or so up the side and then coated the rest of the wood with resin to "waterproof" it.

[thedeuceman]

I double tabbed the stringers on the 1900 but I think that was over kill.
On the GT and the v225 I used 1 layer on the stringers and floor but used 2 tying the transom to the stringer


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[still_fishin]

What Shawn said

[Jerry]

What Joe said.
Use Bi-ax with matt to tab in your stringers, and attach to transom. Bi-ax only folds one way but you can staple it down to cover the stringers and brush on poly resin to cover. that's super strong.

[nes-cv23]

I was taught to use at least 3 layers.. so that's what I do on floor to hull and 4 layers for stringers and transom. Gets a bit thick but I've not had one break apart.... yet.... Can't hurt when you over power them also..

[still_fishin]

If you want Gods answer, ask the people at Express. They are in the business of selling product and haven't tried to sell me more than I needed.

When I started the rebuild on my second boat, the Intimidator, I just brought up my list of supplies I kept from when I rebuilt my CVX18. The old man at Express looked at it and asked where I stuffed the extra 5 gallons of resin. With a puzzled look on my face I proceeded to tell him how I rebuilt my 18......bedded the transom, triple tabbed the transom, then covered with two layers of chopped strand matt and 1 biax. Bed the stringers, triple tabbed them with the first two layers being chopped strand matt and the last layer being biax. The stringers were not fully encapsulated but were covered in a mix of resin and acetone 50/50. The bottom of the floor was then washed with 50/50 resin acetone then screwed to the stringers with wetted chopped strand between the stringers and floor. Cabasil mix for all the edges, then three more layers of tabbing for the floor. Followed by two or three layers of chopped strand matt for the floor. There was a slight pause on behalf of the old man...........
Then he said there is a lot of extra weight in that hull.........
OK, what would you do?
Use the biax tabbing stuff, one layer for the stringers, transom and floor. Just one single layer of tabbing. Bed the transom in cabasil mix, tab it, cover it in matt, cover it in wroving. Bed the stringers in cabasil mix, tab them, resin acetone mix 50/50 the bare wood on the stringers,  and bottom of the floor, install floor, cabasil mix the edges of the floor, tab the floor, cover the floor in matt. 
 The above is what I remember from a conversation from 5 years ago so take that into consideration.

I forgot to mention the motor mounts.........For the 18 I covered them in layers of matt (4 or 5) then wroving (1).......For the Intimidator 3 or 4 layers of biax.



Now from experience, my 18 is ridiculously solid. As it should be. It has seen it's fair share of air time with no issues.
As for my Intimidator, I have not noticed any real difference in flexing of the hull under the same circumstances.

[Jerry]

One layer of bi-ax/W roving is stronger. If it's strength ya need (you don't) you can use Vinylester resin. It has the strength of Epoxy, but mixes with poly.