Author Topic: Fawkes rebuild (Read 50311 times)

V153 · « **Reply #80 on:** December 21, 2013, 07:54:40 PM »

I feel your pain. But 18 yrs is a purty good run for any dog. Or cat.

The late great Uzi rat/cat was 17 when he croaked. I reckon he'd used up at least 8 1/2 of his lives along the way, so I figger he made out okay.

His Veterinarian has a 42' DeFever trawler named "The Cats Meow" financed in part by him ...

75starflight · « **Reply #81 on:** January 28, 2014, 11:05:32 PM »

Just thought I would give a quick update on progress. With the ups and downs with the wind and the temperature we have had lately I have made a little progress. The bucket seats are assembled and I removed the transom assembly over the weekend only to discover it is not worthy of salvage. One stud and two bolts were so rusted they snapped off flush. So I saved what I could of it and the assembly went in the trash can. So as of this point the thoughts for a drive package are leaning towards a alpha 1 gen 2.

dorelse · « **Reply #82 on:** January 28, 2014, 11:17:57 PM »

Yep, I'd say your path is clearer...

Plugcheck · « **Reply #83 on:** January 29, 2014, 08:58:09 AM »

Any progress is good. If I remember correctly, Fawkes is in need of an engine also, correct? I will keep my eye out for a complete drive system for ya. There were some to be had after the flooding passed, a number of owners boats got damaged when tore from their moorings at the Mo river marinas. Tonight Tim and I will be flipping Z hull, I will post some pics.

75starflight · « **Reply #84 on:** January 29, 2014, 09:59:57 AM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on January 29, 2014, 08:58:09 AM

Any progress is good. If I remember correctly, Fawkes is in need of an engine also, correct? I will keep my eye out for a complete drive system for ya. There were some to be had after the flooding passed, a number of owners boats got damaged when tore from their moorings at the Mo river marinas. Tonight Tim and I will be flipping Z hull, I will post some pics.

Thanks Mike. Good Luck with the flip! If I could make it over to help I would be there. Of course it would be better than being covered in and itching from insulation dust. I decided to get my little shop insulated before the 140 parts for Phoenix Rising get to come home.

makinwaves · « **Reply #85 on:** January 29, 2014, 01:11:25 PM »

Keep on plugging away. If you need our help for mass destruction we could come out some day.

75starflight · « **Reply #86 on:** January 29, 2014, 01:52:18 PM »

Quote from: makinwaves on January 29, 2014, 01:11:25 PM

Keep on plugging away. If you need our help for mass destruction we could come out some day.

I will probably take you up on that sometime this spring.

75starflight · « **Reply #87 on:** February 23, 2014, 07:30:36 PM »

just got back from Cozad. went to pick up two used 350 engines for $225.00. I plan on tearing down one of them this week.

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CVX Fever · « **Reply #88 on:** February 24, 2014, 03:58:25 PM »

Brandon - Is your plan to make 1 good motor out of 2 or stuffing both of them back there like Bob P's CV21?

75starflight · « **Reply #89 on:** February 24, 2014, 05:24:29 PM »

Quote from: CVX Fever on February 24, 2014, 03:58:25 PM

Brandon - Is your plan to make 1 good motor out of 2 or stuffing both of them back there like Bob P's CV21?

I hope to make one out of one, but I will probably take the distributor off of the one in my shead.

You know though... two would be a lot more fun!

Bayflite73 · « **Reply #90 on:** February 25, 2014, 09:13:09 AM »

Great to hear progress is being made!

75starflight · « **Reply #91 on:** March 02, 2014, 10:33:43 PM »

Just a quick update, the first block has need completely tore down. Some minor pitting in a couple cylinders but other wise everything looks good it is a virgin block standard bore standard crank. The heads and intake manifold will not be reused due to them being from the smog years.

The second engine is not looking good so far, heads and manifold are junk smog years stuff again. Once I got the heads removed I found two cylinders to have surface rust on them. And some of the coolant passages plugged up with rust. Oh there was not any coolant in this block at all. Sorry I don't have pictures I will post some in the next few days.

75starflight · « **Reply #92 on:** March 04, 2014, 06:30:32 PM »

Here are the pics I promised.
First one is the block I hope is good enough to use.

Nice clean bores some minor pitting. Crank is clean with no grooves.

The second explains it self. And will be going to the scrap yard probably Friday since after letting it warm up in my shop and removing the drain plug to have about a half gallon of water come pouring out before the oil. I am not even going to waste my time finishing the tear down.

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Plugcheck · « **Reply #93 on:** March 05, 2014, 07:46:40 PM »

Did you Mic the bores yet? The second blocks cylinders may look destroyed but may clean up at .030, .040. up to .060. I would suggest having the local machine check it first, it may prove to be the better candidate. I am selling all the innards from my 327/350hp OMC cobra engine if your interested. Probably don't want the 3.25 crank, but the pistons are 60 overs with GM forged I beam rods. Cam and lifters are in good shape. Could be a way to build HP cheap. Good to see progress, hope you get some good weather soon to get some glassing done.

75starflight · « **Reply #94 on:** March 05, 2014, 08:38:22 PM »

I got a wild hair and decided to tear the bottom end down of the second block. Its pretty clean and two bolt mains. Surface rust scraped right off of the cylinders when i pounded the pistons out. I think I will be keeping it for the time being as a back up to my four bolt main block.

Mike, thanks for the offer on the rods and pistons, but I will pass for now. I haven't mic the bores yet, but they look stock.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #95 on:** March 06, 2014, 07:50:03 PM »

Must not of had too much ring ridge if the pistons came out clean. True, the 4 bolt main is more desirable, but a 2 bolt block will sustain a fair amount of power too. I assume your going to stay hydraulic, not roller, correct? Ask your machine shop about cutting a .020 groove in the lifter bores, it helps oil th cam much better. Somewhat an old school mod these days, but better than the lube-a-lobe lifters(they fracture out around the hole). Will you have this craft ready for Rathbun.

75starflight · « **Reply #96 on:** March 06, 2014, 08:45:25 PM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on March 06, 2014, 07:50:03 PM

Must not of had too much ring ridge if the pistons came out clean. True, the 4 bolt main is more desirable, but a 2 bolt block will sustain a fair amount of power too. I assume your going to stay hydraulic, not roller, correct? Ask your machine shop about cutting a .020 groove in the lifter bores, it helps oil th cam much better. Somewhat an old school mod these days, but better than the lube-a-lobe lifters(they fracture out around the hole). Will you have this craft ready for Rathbun.

yep I plan to stay hydraulic. Good tip on the groove in the lifter bores. Nope she won't be ready for Rathbun in time too much to do and it is going to take me probably most of the summer to do it.

I am starting to wonder if I will have Phoenix Rising ready, the machine shop is really dragging their feet on the 140. I might be looking for a new machinist for the next engine. I trust my current guy's work, heck he does all the work for my employer. but he can be very slow for the average joe's project. He has now had the 140 for almost 3 months and has everything washed at this point but keeps putting irrigation engines first. told me today another 2 weeks and I should have it. Heck that is what he told me 2 weeks ago when I called the last time!

Plugcheck · « **Reply #97 on:** March 08, 2014, 02:24:15 PM »

Wow, that is a seriously long time. I pretty much had all my block, heads, and new parts back from the machine shop in about 30-40 days, but that was due to being in before Christmas. I brought in a Cleveland engine for machine work in February to my machinist, and he would not be able to get it back till April, good thing my customer is not in a hurry. Springtime, and anytime after the first of the year can be busy time, everyone wants their racecars, boat, toys, etc ready for spring. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. BTW, what all is being done to the 140?

75starflight · « **Reply #98 on:** March 08, 2014, 08:02:49 PM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on March 08, 2014, 02:24:15 PM

Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. BTW, what all is being done to the 140?

Thanks Mike. Well if my memory serves me bored 20 over, crank polished and balanced and the end drilled and tapped, and he found a crack in the block but it is repairable so he is fixing that too. The head checked out well. Going to put in stainless valves and adjust spring pressure. Oh needed one new rod #3 looked like an S, and full roller rockers.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #99 on:** March 11, 2014, 10:01:48 PM »

Spend plenty of time with solvent, soap, and water on the crank when you get it back. Seen many rebuilt engines have an early demise due to stuff breaking loose in the rifle bores of a turned crank. On rebuilder engines, I either ask the machine shop to plug the crank or add them myself before being turned, that way they can be part of the balance. The plugs allow for the rifle passages to be opened up and cleaned. I have also used some carb cleaners with wood plugs to allow the cleaner to sit in the crank oil lines longer. I hope you get it back in time, now is the time to consider what else you need to put it back together, main and rod bearings, gaskets, carb kit, oil pump, belts, alternator, hoses, fuel pump, fuel/water filter, spark plugs, paint, sensors(oil and water temp), ignition components, exhaust gaskets, etc.