Author Topic: is my receiver too wimpy? (Read 17396 times)

Neutron68 · « **on:** December 03, 2016, 01:14:21 PM »

I have noted that the receiver/hitch on the 2001 Ranger is not as thick/large as I've seen on other trucks.

The stickers say it's rated for a 3500 pound load and 300 pounds of tongue weight.
Is that hefty enough to safely pull the SSV-177 (1775 pounds with engine) and it's hefty trailer for long hauls (100 miles)?

Should I have a heftier receiver/hitch installed?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2016, 01:25:51 PM »

Your truck should be rated for about 3500 lbs. so hitch (Class 2) should be good to go.
Class 3 hitch will tow up to 8000 lbs. and I don't think your truck would handle that.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #2 on:** December 03, 2016, 03:30:37 PM »

Class 3 hitches are good up to 5000 pounds and that looks like a class 2 on there which should be fine.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #3 on:** December 03, 2016, 04:21:03 PM »

General Towing FAQs ...
https://www.reese-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes

Plugcheck · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2016, 04:50:53 PM »

Looks like a class II, assuming a 1.25" square. Class III jumps up to 2" receiver. To better answer your question, the class II on your Ranger will work fine towing your Glastron assuming everything is at least class II rated. Hitch, insert, and ball are all either stamped or labeled with rated capacity. Look closely at the coupler on your trailer, it will also be stamped with capacity ratings. To further ease your mind, there is quite a bit of safety margin built into hitch systems.

Jason · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2016, 05:28:31 PM »

It's fine

Neutron68 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 03, 2016, 05:52:01 PM »

I just looked up the towing capacity of the 2001 Ford Rangers.
Mine is a 4.0L, automatic, 4x4, SuperCab, 4-door, shortbox (6ft.), Edge/XLT
http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2001-2/2001-ford-ranger-specifications/

Look at the last section (Trailer Towing), and the last 2 lines in particular.
They don't define all their abbreviations so we are left to guess that S/C means Super Cab and R/C means Regular Cab?
And, we have to guess why there are 2 towing capacities (number / number) listed for each configuration?

The way this looks, the towing capacity of the 4.0L engine with automatic transmission is at least 5600 pounds (still not sure what the 2nd number in the pair means), so the truck can tow more than the 3500 pound limit of this class 2 receiver/hitch.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2016, 07:00:17 PM »

2nd number is Kilograms for the base 10 folks. I figure if the good Lord wanted us to use that scale he would have had ten apostles!

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 04, 2016, 09:25:33 AM »

Jason is right. That should be plenty for that boat. Class 2 with a one inch receiver. But it looks like it has not been out of that receiver in many years, just make sure you have the right drop so the trailer is level. That way weight will stay even. I'd also get rid of that lock and remove the hitch after every use. If someone wants to steel your trailer/boat that lock will not slow them down.

Neutron68 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 04, 2016, 03:08:55 PM »

Should I try and de-rust and paint the hitch brackets?

If yes, what do I need to do? Files, wire brush and sand paper? Or chemicals?
I used muriatic acid to remove the rust from an exhaust elbow a couple of years ago, and that worked slick - only the rust got eaten away and left the unrusted iron alone.

We have a light duty Rigid hitch on our Saturn station wagon. I left the hitch removed for several years and when I wanted to insert it recently, the receiver had so much rust inside that the hitch would not go in. I spent at least an hour using a Sawzall and metal files to remove the rust buildup, so the hitch would go back in.
What's the best way to clean rust out of the receiver and keep it rust free?

Eric

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 04, 2016, 06:37:19 PM »

I've used a wire brush to remove rust from my receiver, never had more than a thin layer of surface rust to deal with. I have used muriatic acid on exhaust risers with good results so I can't see why it wouldn't work on a receiver. As for maintenance I use Fluid Film, a rust and corrosion preventative that has lubrication properties. It also resists washout ( a good thing around a boat ramp ) and is made with a lonolin base not petroleum so it's enviromentally friendly. Also it softens rust to make removal easier. It's been around since WW2 but not as well known as other brands. I've found it at Auto Zone, Lowes and NAPA.

http://www.fluid-film.com/about/

GIL_CV21 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 05, 2016, 06:23:52 AM »

Quote from: Glastronjohn18 on December 04, 2016, 06:37:19 PM

I've used a wire brush to remove rust from my receiver, never had more than a thin layer of surface rust to deal with. I have used muriatic acid on exhaust risers with good results so I can't see why it wouldn't work on a receiver. As for maintenance I use Fluid Film, a rust and corrosion preventative that has lubrication properties. It also resists washout ( a good thing around a boat ramp ) and is made with a lonolin base not petroleum so it's enviromentally friendly. Also it softens rust to make removal easier. It's been around since WW2 but not as well known as other brands. I've found it at Auto Zone, Lowes and NAPA.

http://www.fluid-film.com/about/

Fluid film is good stuff i just undercoated three cars yesterday with it .

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 05, 2016, 06:30:12 AM »

I pull a lot of trailers and have not had the problem of rust in the receiver. I'm sure that spray would work great I've used it in other places, but it is a lube so it will bleed and you might have to rap the receivers in a towel to keep your storage place clean.

Neutron68 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2017, 11:30:26 PM »

I have a new requirement of the Ranger and it's hitch - pulling a smaller travel trailer.

Earlier in this thread, I looked up the 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 S/C specs and saw it was rated to tow 5612 pounds.
But, the stickers on the receiver hitch say it is only rated to tow 3000 pounds.

For some of the smaller travel trailers, I'm reading that the vehicle will need:

2 inch ball (some require 2 5/16 ball)
class 3 receiver
brake control
7 way bargman wiring
2 inch drop bar rated at 3800 LBS or more
the ability to tow 4000 pounds

reference http://www.southernminnesotacamperrental.com/2007_18_Foot_Flagstaff_Micro_Lite.pdf

So, I guess I need to have the class 2 receiver swapped out for a class 3.

Any recommendations for a place to have that done that won't overcharge me?

Plugcheck · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2017, 08:18:03 AM »

Some of the requirements you posted are assuming the trailer will have electric brakes. Not sure what size RV your considering, but my best advice would be to ask around the RV shops to get their recommendation for hitch installation and wiring. Around here, Uhaul or Council hitch are the go to places.

DL-North · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2017, 01:58:35 PM »

That truck is too small to pull that travel trailer.
For most towing, cut the manufacture rating in half to get something more realistic.

Dan

dorelse · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2017, 04:18:36 PM »

The manufacturer says its can 5600#...not sure where the 'cut it in half' guidance is coming from... Ford has engineers that test & determine a safe tow rating (ha...along with the lawyers.)

I'd tow it...3800# loaded with 7 pin connector & brake controller? Don't be an idiot and drive 80 mph...have fun, keep plenty of braking distance in front of you.

You have a ton of safety margin...1800# (almost 1 ton) under the published towing capacity. Get the upgrades you need and go for it.

Does it have an Aux Trans cooler? That'd by my only thought of something you could add for added protection. Keep in mind, that the more weight in the Ranger, reduces that 5600# by the weight of what you'd added. (ie. add a passenger that weighs 300#...your tow rating goes to 5300#.)

CVX Fever · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2017, 06:19:42 PM »

I'd love to know how they figure a 3800 pound travel trailer will only have 107 pounds of tongue weight. That's about 3%. Really?

I would figure 10-15% for it to tow safely/decent, which would be more like 380- 570 lbs. I could be wrong about that but you might want to ask them. If the RV squats you truck too much you'll need to invest in a weight distribution hitch and they aren't cheap. But they may also be able to supply with the RV.

Does your Ranger have a 7 pin trailer connector from the factory? That makes installing an electric brake controller pretty easy. Otherwise it's a bigger job.
etrailer will often have videos online of how to do stuff like this.

Neutron68 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2017, 07:07:25 PM »

My Ranger came with a factory 4 pin connector for a trailer. It worked perfectly with the boat trailer.

And my Ranger has the factory "towing package". I believe I could see the transmission cooler on the lower side of the engine front (bellow the water radiator, I think).

The requirements list I posted came from several RV rental places in Minnesota. I didn't make them up myself.
The link I posted to an 18 foot travel trailer lists most of them, in a similar list.

Eric

CVX Fever · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2017, 08:56:31 PM »

Quote

My Ranger came with a factory 4 pin connector for a trailer. It worked perfectly with the boat trailer.

Yep. Just letting you know that in addition to the heavier hitch that your putting on you'll also need a 7 pin trailer wiring connector if the RV has electric brakes. The wiring for the trailer brakes routes through that connector. If it does not have brakes or it has surge brakes then your 4 in connector will work just fine.