Author Topic: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal  (Read 602 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« on: December 30, 2017, 07:57:12 AM »
So.... I have a V 179 with a 270 and I have been working on getting the motor out ( AQ 130 ) and getting the deck off etc. for a total rebuild. I have been stopped by this helmet pin-nut on top of the stern drive which I want off to replace the transom. None of my tools seem to fit. It has a outer hex opening and then a smaller inside one. The only info I could find in the manual and online do not seem to address the details of its removal-- I'm afraid of destroying it if I don't find more information. Has anyone else removed one of these? is it a metric wrench? or a special tool? My boat is listed as a 1978 on my registration but I think they stopped making these in 77? here's a picture of the nut that's stopping me any help and advice is appreciated!

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2032
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2017, 03:02:48 PM »
I think Volvo drive parts are metric, so a metric allen hex key is needed. After that helmet/steering bolt is removed you have to pull the two pivot pins that hold the steering fork to the outer shield, one on each side. As long as the bellows, shift cable, and water transfer hose are disconnected the whole drive assembly should pull away from the transom shield.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2017, 08:45:46 PM »
Thank you, that makes sense ,I will run out tomorrow and get the metric set and try again-what is the smaller opening inside the helmet pin for? I hesitated because I used American Allen wrenches on the other stuff ..I do have a small home made tool for the pivot bolts- after I remove the bellows and anything else that I didn't get from inside the boat. I mocked up a cradle for it also ( I know I will have to back this off to lift it ) and then the engine comes out!
« Last Edit: December 30, 2017, 08:47:40 PM by melinprov »

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2032
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2017, 09:40:24 PM »
Only the larger hex hole matters, the inner is probably just an artifact from machining the part. There's probably high strength thread locker on it so removal could be difficult but should't be impossible. I've done similar removals, the last was to replace a broken steering helmet and support fork which required separation of the drive halves to replace the fork. It was not a fun job.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 08:09:55 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2032
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2017, 10:00:51 PM »
Just pulling the drive is not enough to pull the engine. There's an intermediate housing that supports the short drive shaft which plugs into the U-joints of the drive. There's a ring of bolts around the neck of the shaft housing that will need to be removed, behind which is a sealing ring which is nothing more than a large rubber O-ring. Once those are removed and everything is disconnected inside the boat you should be able to pull the engine.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2017, 03:38:55 PM »
Thank you the metric wrench was the ticket, I was able to remove one of the pins with my special tool but the second one hung up but I did get it to move a little so I will try again tomorrow. I do know about the housing and I heard it can be difficult- and thanks for the pictures they do help. I'm pretty sure I have seen your boat on some of the U Tube videos I have seen. If it wasn't so cold here right now I think I would be further along

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2018, 01:42:21 PM »
Finally...I know this should be a 40 min job but the first pin came out in 5 mins by hand but the second one hung up. I used my C clamp press but it was a inch too long to fit-so I went out and got some shorter bolts and rigged it---done---now on to the motor and bracing and pulling the cap

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2018, 08:53:48 AM »
Wow,really happy those 6 bolts came off really easy-there is just a little corrosion on the bottom bolts!

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2032
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2018, 12:38:55 PM »
When you pull the engine try not to disturb the forward engine mount height adjustments. The height/alignment is critical for reinstalling the drive. If the end of the drive shaft isn't centered between the swivel and tilt pivots reinstalling the drive can be a real pain when trying to connect the U-joints.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2018, 03:58:10 PM »
Thank you for that tip-- everything went well the motor mounts and the back end is pretty solid so it all came out pretty clean, I did find a oil leak and a busted freeze plug though, the engine did dump some oil in the last year that mixed with the leaves and made a sludge in the bottom of the back of the boat but it wasn't really wet- the freeze plug only leaked water when I got it off cantor. Because the back end motor area seems solid I will work around it when I reglass later in the spring or summer.

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2018, 02:02:14 PM »
Another question then...after I removed the engine I was checking out how the boat lays on the trailer as I am starting to design the rest of my support system ( using the trailer as a base ) for when I remove the cap and then deck and stringers and I noticed that the bottom bunks which I adjusted before are now in a different position and the bottom of the boat is slightly above the middle line rollers. I can now rock the boat where as before it was solid-is that normal because of the removal of the engine  ( only about 500 lbs. ) I plan to readjust it-will I have to re-adjust it again when I put the engine back in?----  and now a good thing...I thought I would have to remove and replace the transom based on my visual inspection but after the engine was out I tap tested it and its solid! but it does need some reglassing inside.

Online 75starflight

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3188
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2018, 03:32:42 PM »
Honestly, you do not have to remove the cap from the hull of the V-179 to work on the floor and stringers. I did my floor, transom and checked the stringers on my v-179 without removing the cap. All you have to do for front access is remove the fuel tank and remove the vertical supports on the step up to the bow. and you have complete access to the floor and front of the stringers. 

Also,

plan on removing the support boards for the stern of the boat cap that are part of the flotation boxes. Make sure you connect the two corners that the engine cover sits between together some how. I had some spreading happen when I removed my original support boards. I will see if I can come up with some pictures for reference for you.
1975 v-179 starflite 
1978 CVZ-18

Online 75starflight

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3188
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2018, 03:46:04 PM »
a few pictures from my rebuild.

I found I had rot when I found a front engine mount anchor bolt popped out of the wood for the mount.

I would suggest you drill a couple of test holes in the transom by the drain plug to check for wet wood. If it is wet, I would suggest replacing it. And if the fiberglass is separated from the transom I would bet the wood is wet.
1975 v-179 starflite 
1978 CVZ-18

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2018, 07:44:35 PM »
Good tips and advice, I do plan on removing the flotation boxes and rebuilding them so I will support it and the drill test sounds good, I was surprised it was solid to tell the truth but the deck did have soft spots and I'm pretty sure at least one of the stringers is gone, I had removed a small portion of the deck to look under it and the fiberglass was rolled above the stringer-leaving a large gap and had exposed it.I thought it would be easier to put the cap up in my rafters while I did the work below and I also want to flip it and check the bottom of the cap forward but its nice to know that I may be able to do it without lifting it if I find out different on the front.Im still figuring out the gas tank.

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2018, 07:51:28 PM »
here's under the motor after I removed the engine

Offline melinprov

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: working on a Volvo Penta 270-removal
« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2018, 08:03:49 PM »
the reglassing would be at the top, its still there but some wood is exposed at the top just below the foam gasket type seal on the top of the transom.It has some pretty large over cuts on the side too, I wonder if this was replaced before?