Author Topic: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130  (Read 663 times)

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Offline NBD925

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #20 on: September 03, 2020, 10:30:28 PM »
Plug: what should the compression be on a new AQ130.  I was happy with the 148 or so PSI at this altitude.  I understand this engine has slightly higher compression just due to the fact it requires 97RON gas (91 Octane U.S) Any idea what that compression figure might be?

Iím not familiar with looking up a cam spec and being able to figure out what the lift might be can you help me with that. Also if the cam was installed advanced or retarded.  What does that mean and How is that tested.  I would like to rule these out too.

Iíll look into the timing marks.  That would be interesting.  Also should add to the list the 270 outdrive ratio.  It is supposed to be 2.15:1 Iíll check that too. 


Offline NBD925

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2020, 10:13:09 AM »
Another option for the RPM drain I thought of is the alternator.  My voltmeter reads high because the alternator is charging a large marine battery.  I thought of this after this test.  I ran at full throttle and got my usual 4200 RPM.  Shut the boat down in the middle of the lake.  It was dusk, so I turned on the NAV lights front and back.  I ended up sitting there for about 1 hour.  I then started the boat and ran full speed agin.  I only got 4000 or so RPM.  Nothing changed except the use of the lights.  I then ran full throttle and turned the lights off.  I got an increase of RPM to about 4150.  Interesting!  The alternator was creating a huge drag it seemed charging the battery back up from the light drain after sitting.  It got me thinking about the battery.  I will also test the Alternator.

What Battery size and type should I have in this 1972 Glastron AQ130 Bayflite?  I hope someone can help me with that. I would like to purchase one today at NAPA to check that off the list. 

Offline NBD925

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2020, 08:09:10 PM »
Update:  Moving in the right direction!

Tested the alternator and itís throwing good amperage.  14.20 amps at full throttle.  Check that off the list.  I purchased a new battery (NAPA 8270) BCI# 27 DCM.  Itís 800 CCA @ 32* Check that off too.  I did discover that my Voltmeter/Ammeter is not working correctly.  It is showing 16. I will investigate that. 

I decided to check the valve clearance. So I read the manual and adjusted per the book.  Things were ok and seemed to pass inspection.  I didnít like the method spelled out in the manual.  Find cylinder 1 TDC adjust valve 1, 2, 3, and 5 (counted front to back) then rotate crank one revolution and adjust 4, 6, 7, and 8.  I did that and it looked good.  I had never done this quicker method before and didnít trust it.  I had in the back of my mind that spark plugs 2 and 3 never looked quite the same as 1 and 4.  Plugs 2 and 3 were not as perfect a burn Pattern and had lots more carbon.  Always. I decided to check each cylinder individually as it hit compression at top dead.  I found using this longer adjustment method that the valves on cylinderS 2 and 3 were far tighter than they should be. I adjusted each valve so .020 feeler gauge just slips in and .022 will not fit.

Test results: 

Prop 14 x 19
RPM slightly above 4400 thatís a 200 RPM increase
Speed 30 MPH
Elevation 4000 feet

Much smother running and far more power felt.  Weíre moving in the right direction here.  Well worth checking this on your boats.  I hate to even utter these words but in this case ďdonít follow the manualĒ check each cylinder individually.  That Manual method may work somewhere or be a quick get it done shop trick but it didnít work here.

Side notes I noticed testing:  These tests were with me in the boat (6í4Ē 250 pounds) I added my dad, later in testing, who is also 6í5 260 pounds and we noticed a slight drop in RPM and Speed.  To be expected but interesting.  4300 or so RPM and 29 MPH.  I made note that adding about 250 pounds to the boat will cut RPM by about 100 and Speed by 1 MPH. 

Boat still has dirty bottom and that will be tested at some point later. 

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2020, 08:42:10 PM »
Have you ever tried it at a lower elevation  ?

I have a CV16 / 115 HP Mariner outboard .. With full tank (18 gal.) and a 200 lbs. passenger, I lose 3 to 4 MPH/GPS.
Adding 250 lbs. and losing 1 MPH would be expected ...
Gregg
'76 CV16

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2020, 09:56:49 AM »
Having a dial indicator handy whilst adjusting the valves would have confirmed valve lift.  0.020-0.022 inches seemed like a lot, but I looked up the specs and it is indeed that value.   Using a piston stop and turning the crank back and forth would verify the timing marks are correct.  Degreeing the cam with engine installed might be difficult, but just checking the lift at the valve might be enough to determine if the cam went flat.  Compression ratio varied on these engines, the "C" version had 9.5 to 1 which should have a compression test reading above 180psi, the "B" had something like 8.5 to 1, so comp test should read about 140-150.      Sounds like you're making progress.   
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline NBD925

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #25 on: September 07, 2020, 07:40:40 PM »
Update:  I had purchased the Pertronix 2842 Electronic Ignition and the Flame-Thrower 40511 Flame Thrower Coil Package on Amazon. I followed the instructions and installed the Pertronix 2842 Electronic Ignition first.  Only trouble with that install was not pushing the new plastic magnetic cam piece on far enough down into the original distributor cam.  I realized it was not installed far enough down when the distributor rotor would not fit under the cap.  I pushed it down further and everything fit nicely.  That should be spelled out in the instructions better, I think.  There are 4 small magnetic pieces in that plastic cam and they align with the flat portions of the distributor cam.  Once aligned the plastic piece can be pushed down until it bottoms on the built in lip.  It takes some force.  Not a turn and push like they describe.

Out of curiosity, I measured my original Bosch Coil and it was safe for use with the Pertronix as the original coil ohm reading was 3.0 on Primary (+ to - Coil Terminals) and the Secondary read 8 (Coil Tower to negative coil terminal) 3 ohm being the important reading for this install. I decided to test the boat with just the Pertronix installed to see what each component would gain me.

Note: I did receive a bad Flame Thrower Coil.  The Primary winding of the coil was open and had 0 ohm reading.  I found this out after I tried to install it.  I will have to send it back.  Iím not sure if the Flame Thrower Coil is better than the Original Bosch.  Bosch made good stuff.  As of right now Iím not impressed with the Flame Thrower Quality. 

Can someone tell me why the Flame Thrower Coil is better than the original Bosch?  You end up using the same spark plugs and plug gap with either coil.

So with the new Pertronix Ignition installed and the engine retimed, (thatís a must) here are the results.

Prop: 14 x 19
RPM: 4600 + a little
Speed: 32 MPH
Elevation: 4000 feet

We are again moving in the right direction! 

The boat starts instantly and I gained 200 RPM on the top speed.  Interesting because the dwell and points were checked previously and the parts were fairly new.  Thatís a great boost for the money.  It seems smoother and more responsive. 

Other things on the list to gain RPM and Speed:

New Prop
Clean Boat bottom
New Original Volvo Plug Wires Ordered
Carb Sync (purchased a UNI Sync carb tool) waiting for it to arrive.

One big annoyance is the idle.  There must be a slight bind In the carb linkage because even though the boat idles smooth and is perfectly set at 900 RPM after you increase the throttle, the idle will hang at 1500 + until you rev it and then it will come down.  Very annoying!  I have read that there might have been a spring that was installed between the throttle cable sleeve end and the throttle linkage.  Did my boat have this?  When the idle has hung up I have opened the engine bay and pushed the throttle linkage up with my finger.  It take a very light touch and the idle comes right down.  I think even a light spring here would take care of everything? 

Am I missing this throttle cable spring?  If so what size spring and or what is the part number? 

Offline 75starflight

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #26 on: September 08, 2020, 09:08:24 AM »
Don't waste your time with the flame thrower coil. I have tried 2 and not had good results. 1 bad out of the box and one lasting 30 minutes. Stick with the factor coil.

And congratulations on the increase in performance!  I am thinking about going back to a pertronix when I revive my boat from a 4 year slumber next spring.
1975 v-179 starflite 
1978 CVZ-18

Offline NBD925

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2020, 11:22:34 PM »
Update:  I was battling a problem returning to idle.  Any time I gave the boat throttle and returned it to idle the ROM would stay at about 1500 - 2000. I would have to rev the throttle briskly and then the idle would come back down to about 900 RPM. This was a real pain in the ass because anytime you brought the throttle lever to neutral you would have to rev the engine in order to get it back into gear without a huge slap and clunk with the high RPMs.  I put a 1/4 x 7.5 inch long spring and washer setup (Bottom washer 1/4 hole size and Top washer 3/16 hole) on the throttle cable end near the carburetor to give the throttle lever a little extra boost shutting the throttle plates completely.  It worked.  It has been returning back to correct idle or very close every time now.

I made a few RPM gains after a few new parts arrived.  I replaced the spark plug wires with original Volvo wires.  The RPM gain was modest but anything helps.  I got a 25 to 50 RPM increase with the new wires. 

I also got my new Solex main jets in the mail from France.  I had tested my original 145 main jets and read the plugs at high speed, full throttle.  I shut down the engine while going full speed in order to freeze the plugs in there burn state.  They were slightly black and not the perfect tan color you want from a good burn ratio.  I decided because they were black that I was running slightly rich.  Previous jet testing said that 140 main jets were too lean.  I lost RPM with jets that small.  I decided to give the 142ís a try.  Right in the middle.  This was an improvement!  After testing, I got a 100 RPM gain. 

New Test results

Prop: 14x19
RPM: 4725 or so
Speed: 32 MPH
Elevation 4000 feet
Main jet now 142 (original was 145)

I will be syncing the carbs tomorrow and hope I get a slight increase in RPM with that.  I will keep everyone updated.

Things to still try:

Clean bottom of boat
New Prop

It does not look like I will hit the book numbers of 35-37 MPH but I may be able to hit 4800 RPM and thatís better then when I started this journey at 3850 or so RPM almost 1000 RPM increase from almost everything I replaced and adjusted.  Very small increases that all added up.  Very interesting how finicky boats are and how truly high performance they really are.  Everything counts on the water to gain speed.

Offline carlsoncvx18

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Re: 1972 Glastron Bayflite V164 AQ130
« Reply #28 on: September 18, 2020, 08:15:47 AM »
Make sure that the throttle linkage( cable) attacking to the carbs is not tight.
1987 CVX18
1977 GT150
1986 CV23
1984 Intimiadator
1981 CV27